Midtown Stomp- A Memphis Food & Wine Blog

Not A Wine Post

2012-02-15T19:03:00.002-08:00

This morning I got to work at 7:30 a.m. to a box full of puppies that had been dropped at the back door like trash. My heart broke into a million pieces as I stared down into a cardboard box filled with 7 sweet fuzzy faces.

The person who left them to freeze & starve in our parking lot is obviously a sub human. Actually much much worse than that. If there is a hell there is a special place for this person. My co-worker & I sprang into action. He ran across the street to get food & I sent emails, tweeted, posted to FaceBook & hoped & prayed that someone would respond.

I held each one & whispered to them that everything was going to be ok. I kissed them on top of their sweet little heads.

Their sweet puppy fragrance was intoxicating & it truly took every fiber of my being not to take them or at least one of them home with me. But we have 3 dogs already & I knew Kelly would kill me if I brought another home.

Almost immediately phone calls & emails started coming in. One by one homes were found for each of them. Every time a puppy left I had to choke back tears. This is why I love Memphis. People have big warm hearts here & they open their homes to creatures in need that have been so horribly mistreated.

My faith in humanity was severely shaken before I even had a sip of coffee this morning. By 2 p.m. it was restored & stronger than ever. One of the guys who took 2 of the pups texted me this: "Hey, it's Alex. My parents are going to adopt both dogs. They named them Laverne & Shirley". These puppies hit the lottery.

Cochon 555 Porks Up Memphis pt 3

2012-02-13T11:51:00.000-08:00

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen was the final stop for the judge crew. We began with Kelly English & ended with Andy & Michael. This amazing experience was bookended by our hometown boys. I was electrified with pork & pride by the time we got to AMIK. Regardless of how proud I was of all three of them I still kept in mind that I was there to do a job & be an unbiased judge. Honestly it wasn't difficult to be unbiased. Every chef there brought their A game & produced piggy dishes that were insanely delicious. But I digress.

The look & design of the menu itself was super cool & practically jumped off the table. It popped. As we judges gathered around the tables the chefs & sous chefs were finishing off our plates. There was this beautiful creative energy that was palpable & almost intoxicating. The plates themselves were works of art.

Everything they put out was outstanding but for me the spiedino & the chocolate blood torte were some of the best bites of the day. The spiedino was rich, succulent, savory & earthy. The torte had the mysterious mineral note that came from the blood which really worked well against the bittersweet lusciousness of the chocolate. I was blown away by this entire experience. Cheers to all the chefs who competed! But a special shout out goes to Andy & Michael & Kelly English. You all did Memphis so proud!

Cochon 555 Porks Up Memphis pt 2

2012-02-10T19:39:00.000-08:00

Kevin Nashan & his Sidney Street Cafe crew threw out an amazing plate full of pig. I loved the scrambled egg mousse & I gotta say that the Memphis nod with the "Elvis" was absolutely delicious & gave me a little home turf pride.

Up next was Lee Richardson with Ashley's at the Capital Hotel in Little Rock. I imagine there was a bit of a friendly rivalry between Chef Kelly English & Chef Lee Richardson since they used to work together years ago. However, both chefs seemed too focused on their dishes to really give any play to that possible rivalry. I have to hand it to Chef Richardson for his mortadella stuffed in a pig head.

As we continued on we began to see that each chef was operating on very different wavelengths. Yes there was pork belly, trotters & ears, even blood but each chef produced distinctively different dishes.

Chef Chris Hastings of Hot & Hot Fish Club in Birmingham had somewhat of an Asian style going but with somewhat of a Spanish-French infusion. I flipped over the heart crudo. So creamy, lush & supple but with a brightness from the capers. The blood sausage was absolutely to die for. It had a beautiful mineral earthiness & reminded me of my grandmother's cooking.

Cochon 555 Porks up Memphis pt 1

2012-02-09T18:02:00.001-08:00

When I first heard that Cochon 555 was coming to Memphis it was on the down low. I was told "whatever you do DO NOT TELL ANYONE". At least until the official announcement. I will say that usually I have absolutely no self control when it comes to situations like this. However, this time was quite different. Cochon 555 coming to Memphis was, the way I saw it, a high profile spotlight illuminating the world-class food scene we have here. I didn't want to do anything to screw that up so I kept my mouth shut. Well....I kept my mouth shut until I got to Cochon 555 & stuffed it full of pork! Much to my surprise I got the overwhelmingly cool honor of being one of the judges. At 3:40 p.m. this Saturday I arrived at The Columns & walked into what is sure to go down in history as the most amazing food event in Memphis history.

I wandered around & talked with a few chefs, fellow judges & friends. The space was absolutely gorgeous. I think it was a perfect location for it because it underscores our attempts at adaptive reuse here in Memphis. The time came for us to gather for a judges meeting with Brady Lowe, founder of Cochon. He gave us a run down of what to expect, how to go about the judging process & what he expected from us. Off we went to see the first chef.

Chef Kelly English & his Restaurant Iris team had a lovely little cocktail awaiting us. Cracklin skewered Luxardo cherries garnishing a bacon infused manhattan. Ab-so-lutely delicious. He presented his food, what he was trying to accomplish & his thought process behind the theme.

The basket presentation was whimsical but not silly. It worked quite well with the "takeout" theme. After a sip of the manhattan I was ready to dig in. The first plate was box of cold noodles (some made of fat back) pork shoulder & chilled pork belly. Normally I've only had pork belly hot so this was unique for me. Each layer of meat & fat was so distinctive of each other. It was crisp & super rich & succulent. I loved the juxtaposition of the fresh crisp greens against the tongue/cheek pate like schweinkampf crostini. Texture is always something I find to be of the utmost importance. Chef Kelly's next dish was a reference to our beloved Grizzlies: Heart, Grit & Grind. The grits were super creamy but still toothsome from being stone ground. I was really pleased to see such utilization in Kelly's dishes. From the hearts in the ragu over the grits to the blood in the ganache on his eclairs. It all worked.

This has to be the most unique menu presentation I've ever seen. It's attached to a pig skin backing using barbed wire. That is beautiful & yet another utilization of the pig. Chef Kevin Nashan looked like a pretty cool, laid back guy but it was obvious from the plate that he was passionate about pig. With a little bit of whimsy thrown in.

Elk Cove Pairing at Sweetgrass Thursday February 2nd

2012-01-26T18:49:00.000-08:00

Chef Ryan Trimm of Sweetgrass is creating a special small plates tasting to pair with the gorgeous wines of Elk Cove Winery. On Thursday February 2nd between 5 - 8 pm you can get a special tasting of small plates paired with 4 different Elk Cove wines. Todd Stewart will be on hand direct from the winery to engage with customers, answer questions & share stories about each unique wine. This is not a typical wine dinner. No hard start time. No single presentation or conversation. You can come anytime you want between 5 & 8 pm & order this unique pairing for only $35 plus tax & tip. This is a special opportunity to sample the delicious food of Chef Ryan Trimm paired alongside the excellent wines of Elk Cove. Come out to Cooper-Young on a Thursday & have an experience!

O Oregon

2012-01-24T19:16:00.000-08:00

With a month away from the first annual Joe's Wines & Liquors Passport to Oregon we are nearly sold out. It's truly amazing to me that there has been so much support &, quite frankly, demand for this. It shows me that this region whose wines I love so dearly has fans all over this city. I can't wait to see the looks on people's faces when they take in a mouthful of earthy, sensual, gorgeous pinot noir. I can't wait to show the Oregon folks why I love this city so much. Get ready for some Oregon love Memphis!

Elk Cove Vineyards Tasting

2012-01-23T16:29:00.000-08:00

One of my absolute favorite wineries is coming to town a couple of times in February. First they will be in town for one of the hottest tickets in town Cochon 555. Joe's Wines & Elk Cove will also be partnering up for a tasting at Sweetgrass that week but the details haven't been worked out yet. Stay tuned for that. Last but not least they will be here for Joe's Wines Passport to Oregon event on February 23rd. Tickets for that event are $40 & can be purchased at Joe's, 1681 Poplar, 901.725.4252. Tickets are almost gone so go get yours NOW!

Adelsheim Winery & Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen

2012-01-23T16:17:00.000-08:00

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen is hosting a dinner with Adelsheim Vineyards on Friday February 3rd. Adelsheim, founded in 1971, is one of the most respected & celebrated wineries in the U.S. Their pinot noirs are sensually textured and absolutely gorgeous and express so much of what is unique about the Willamette Valley. Chefs Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman will be preparing a 5 course tasting menu to not only match but amplify these elegant wines. Seating is extremely limited. This is a rare opportunity to taste wines with Michael Adelsheim himself paired with courses from 2 of the best chefs in Memphis. Don't miss this one! Cost to attend is $85/person plus tax & tip. Please call 901.347.3569 for reservations.Call now!

Bottles With Friends

2012-01-05T17:38:00.000-08:00

When friends move away its very bittersweet. I'm always happy for my friends because they are most likely moving on because of a job or school. It's always for some good opportunity that can't be passed up. My friends Becca & Lee moved to Los Angeles last year because Lee was accepted to the American Film Institute. Yep I said AFI. The most prestigious film school on the planet! I was so proud of Lee but a little sad because I love both of them & I knew I'd miss them. Not surprisingly LA has been good for Becca too. She is teaching yoga & continuing her work as a doula. She's even been in LA Parent. I'm so proud of them both.

I'm so proud of them both.

Thankfully they both came home for the holidays to see family & friends. We luckily were able to have them over for dinner last night & they surprised us with a gorgeous bottle of Coldisole Brunello di Montalcino 2001. I absolutely adore Brunello. There really is nothing like it in the wine world. Earthy, hauntingly seductive, herbaceous. Aside from that it always seems to grab me by the you know whats.

My motto for 2012 is to use any excuse to open up good wine. With that being said I popped open an Argyle Blanc de Blancs 2007. Beautiful bubbles with beautiful people. Dinner consisted of macaroni & cheese with parmiggiano reggiano crumbs, Piave & Fontina cheeses with a tomato-white wine sugo & shiitakes roasted in truffle & garlic butter. May this be the first of many many wonderful meals in 2012.

Post Holiday

2012-01-05T17:05:00.000-08:00

In my line of work the holidays are BRUTAL to say the least. It is wonderful to have such a great job & to be so busy but needless to say it wears me out. However, I have found a remedy to the stress that builds up during the holidays. A really, really, really good massage. I know, its not as if this is earth shattering news but it had been about 8 or 9 years since I had one. Working on my feet on terrazzo can be murder. I found a great masseuse that not only listened to what I said but also listened to my body. He worked out every little knot every ball of stress & every pool of tensity. Do yourselves a favor & make an appointment with this man. Tell him Michael Hughes sent you.Relax Revive Restore Massage TherapyJon Michael Livaudais, LMT901.270.3255

More Wineries for Passport to Oregon

2011-12-21T06:20:00.000-08:00

Every day I preach the virtues of Oregon. Now it's time for Memphis to experience it themselves. Joe's Wines Passport to Oregon will be the best wine tasting event to hit the city. Guaranteed. I've fallen in love with the wines of Oregon because of their heart, soul, passion, uniqueness, sensuality & overall deliciousness.

I just found out that both Cornerstone Cellars (pouring their Willamette Valley pinot noir of course) & Domaine Drouhin Oregon have signed on to participate! Domaine Drouhin!

You can purchase your tickets at

Joe's Wines & Liquors

1681 Poplar

Memphis, TN 38104

901.725.4252

Joe's Wines' Passport to Oregon

2011-12-13T09:48:00.000-08:00

Oregon is one of my favorite wine regions....if not my very favorite. I'm so elated to be a part of this event. Joe’s Wines & Liquors is bringing Oregon wine country to Memphis on Thursday February 23rd. “Joe’s Passport To Oregon” wine tasting will showcase the best wineries in the hallowed Willamette Valley wine growing region. Owners & winemakers from Bethel Heights, Adelsheim, Elk Cove, Argyle, King Estate, A to Z, Anne Amie, Torii Mor, Domaine Serene, Rex Hill, Cliff Creek, Benton Lane, Le Cadeau, Lachini, Carlton Cellars just to name a few. Before it’s all said & done we expect nearly 20 wineries to be in attendance. Collectively, these wineries produce some of the most highly sought after wines in America. We present to you a rare opportunity to not only taste some of each winery’s best but interact with someone directly from that winery. In addition to wines from nearly 20 different Oregon producers we will serve “Pacific Northwest” style appetizers to pair alongside. On top of the selections being offered for tasting each winery will also have a special “rare” wine for purchase. Some are bringing large formats, library wines, small production or “winery only” selections. We will be offering special discounts on purchases made that day. Purchase your tickets at Joe’s Wines & Liquors, 1681 Poplar for $40/person. “Joe’s Passport To Oregon” will be held at the University Club on Thursday February 23rd.

2 Pinots. One Vineyard.

2011-12-12T07:54:00.000-08:00

I absolutely adore Oregon wines & there is one vineyard in particular that always sings to me: Ana Vineyard. Kelly & I had our friends Tiffany & Mark & Elizabeth & Steve over for dinner the other night. Since it's the end of the year I thought the theme should be celebratory decadence. It all began with lobster. I kept thinking about these crustaceans. Then I thought risotto. Lobster risotto. This could be really delicious. I got my beautiful live lobsters from Viet Hoa. I texted my friend Chef Kelly & he told me to kill the lobsters first then prepare them. That was the first time I had to do that but it really wasn't that difficult. The difficult part is getting the meat out of the shells. I stripped all the meat out & reserved the shells which I sauteed with garlic, onions, celery thyme & parsley. After I got a bit of color on the shells I added a bottle of chardonnay & half a bottle of pinot grigio & about 2 cups of chicken stock. I let that cook down for quite sometime to concentrate the liquid into a nice rich stock. Meanwhile, I got the risotto going so it could cook slowly & the rice could release its creamy starch.

When our lovely guests arrived we popped open a bottle of J Lasalle Brut Preference Non Vintage. This gorgeous Champagne is 60% pinot meunier which immediately excited me. It's toasty, yeasty, with orange marmalade notes, brioche & it was so sensually textured.

Once we sat down I started everyone off with scallops that I seared off & served with a meyer lemon basil white wine butter sauce. It paired perfectly with Robert Sinskey Abraxas.

Next up was my lovely risotto. I folded in butter poached lobster meat, topped it with claw meat & drizzled a lobster-saffron sauce over it that I made with the reduced lobster stock. So rich, so briny, so delicious. Tiffany & Mark brought a Lachini Family Winery Ana Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006. When I saw that I freaked out. To drink side by side with that I popped open a Patricia Green Cellars 2006 Ana Vineyard Pinot Noir. The Lachini was masculine while the Patricia Green started off a bit more feminine. However, as the bottle opened up the Patty Green become more earthy & hauntingly sensual. Both wines were so beautiful & expressive. Yet again it showcased how much I love this vineyard.

Birthday Pig-stravaganza

2011-12-01T18:22:00.001-08:00

I know it's been quite some time since my birthday back in September but forgive because time has gotten away from me. For my birthday dinner my wonderful husband got with one of the best chefs in the biz, Kelly English, & devised a plan for a dinner that would elate a porkaholic such as me. Chef English apparently wanted to go whole hog & present a suckling pig. However, my Kelly put the brakes on that one & said he "didn't want to stare at a pig face all night." No matter, this dinner was truly exceptional.Course #1 Pig Ear CarbonaraRich truffled pig ear "noodles". So creamy with a beautiful crunch to the cartilage but tenderness to the remainder of the ear.Course # 2Rare Pig Heart with Cumin Spiced EggplantRare grilled pig heart that was so toothsome & earthy. There is something about heart that provides such a unique wine pairing. There is literally no flavor combo like the iron-copper rich flavor in heart paired up with gorgeously earthy red wine.

Course #3Tongue in CheekSucculent braised pig tongue over housemade noodles & tender pieces of pork cheek. So savory, tender & brought me back to childhood. My family used to cook tongue when I was a kid & I used to hoover it up.

Course #4Pork BellyThere is little that needs to be said about a perfectly cooked piece of pork belly. Sinking my teeth into the sweet meat & creamy fat is total bliss. Anyone that has been to Restaurant Iris knows that Kelly English knows how to work a piece of pig. However, this entire experience was something entirely more than I've ever had before. Of course the food was spectacular but the fact that my husband set this up for me for my birthday dinner really made it truly special. Thank you to both Kelly's for the best most porktastic birthday ever!

Cocktails for the Tsunami Artist Market

2011-11-27T18:51:00.001-08:00

My friend Colleen asked me to craft some interesting cocktails for the Tsunami Artist Market that she hosted today. I of course said yes because I love helping out friends & I love playing with spirits. My first thought was "what am I going to do?" Then my mind went wild & in all kinds of directions from savory to sweet & in between.Here is what I crafted for the Artist Market:Negroni Bianco-Gin-Blanc Vermouth-Cocchi AmericanoGarnished with a flamed lemon peelXmas in Manhattan-Maker's Mark Bourbon-Martini & Rossi Rouge Vermouth-St Elizabeth's Allspice Dram-Homemade Benton Bacon bitters-Regan's Orange bittersgarnished with a clove studded orange peelThe Naughty List-Persimmons cooked with vanilla vodka & vanilla sugar-Spiced Rum-Homemade ginger bitters-Homemade ginger simple syrup-fresh ginger-chili flakes-lemon juiceI think the Naughty List won...

Actually no, that's not a Manhattan

2011-11-26T18:40:00.001-08:00

Me: "Is there anything else you need help with?"Guy: "Oh, shoot I forgot vermouth."Me: "Follow me it's right over here."Guy: "Cool, I need some for Manhattans."Me: "Ok great, I love Manhattans. We have a few sweet vermouths to choose from."Guy: "No I want some dry vermouth not red."Me: "Well that's not a Manhattan."Guy: "Yeah it is I just use dry vermouth & no bitters."Me: "Uhh a Manhattan needs bitters. Don't let anyone tell you differently."Guy: "Well I like my Manhattans with dry vermouth."Me: "Then call it something else because it's not a Manhattan. Manhattans use red sweet vermouth. Call it a Brooklyn or a Staten Island or something."

Inspired by Tequila

2011-11-17T20:05:00.001-08:00

Behold! What you have above is my latest concoction. Silver TequilaCocchi AmericanoSaffron TinctureFresh squeezed persimmon from my friend's yardGarnished with a flamed meyer lemon peel & a skewer of rum-meyer lemon zest cured blueberries.Spicy, herbaceous, bitter, hints of sweetness. Absolutely delicious.

New On The Scene

2011-11-17T19:11:00.001-08:00

The opening of Alchemy has caused a lot of buzz around Memphis. I got to see the space before it opened & it truly was stunning. I was shocked by how much space there was! When Au Fond & Grace were in that space it was so cramped. Seeing this space made it even more evident of how poorly that space had been used. But I digress. I was incredibly excited about Alchemy for a number of different reasons but specifically because of the cocktail program. I mean "cocktails" are in the name on the awning so they are going to be serious right? I also heard that they had hired a "mixologist" from New York so it was obvious they were going the extra mile & the cocktail program was going to be serious. Or so I thought. Kelly & I went with some friends this past Monday on one of the first nights they were open. The restaurant has a distinctive lounge vibe that was very alive & filled with people. Its always exciting to see a restaurant full on a Monday. That energetic, electric vibe ended when I took a look at the drinks list. I was very disappointed to see only 4 cocktails. Just 4?? Where was the focus on specialty "New York" style unique drinks. I was told that they hadn't nailed down that part of the program & they weren't comfortable putting out a full list yet. I sampled 2 of them that friends had ordered. They seemed a bit simple & didn't have anything hand crafted or house made in them. For $11 I was expecting quite a bit more. I understand there are always kinks to be worked out when a restaurant is opened so perhaps that is something that will get worked out as well. Hopefully. One thing that I couldn't get passed was the service. From beginning to end it seemed harried, disjointed & just plain clueless. After waiting for quite sometime at the bar I finally was asked if I needed help. Well sort of:

Bartender: Have you been helped?

Me: No.

Bartender: So do you need help?

Me: Yes!

Bartender----silence

Me: I was wondering if you could make me a Negroni.

Bartender: I don't know what that is

Nearby Bartender: I don't know what's in that

They both walked away.

Seriously. Just walked away without getting me another drink or asking me if they could get me anything at all.

That is not an opening kink that is a service issue. Service issues, if not nipped in the bud, will fester & grow & will cause serious problems. They could easily cause diners to never return. We were seated in a booth in the back & after another seriously long wait we finally got a server, got a bottle of wine & settled in. The food was another story. Aside from the very long ticket times that caused us to wait for a very long time for our food...it was delicious.The food was very good, except for the fish tacos which were too heavy with mayonnaise & fairly bland. The food really saved the day. I tasted the camembert fritters, beef, & lamb ribs. All were absolutely wonderful. Especially the lamb ribs. Lamb ribs, yep I said lamb ribs. My friend Jaime said they were like the best part of a gyro. That outside crusty part of the gyro that is filled with spice is what every bite of that rib tasted like. I want this place to succeed not only for the good of Cooper-Young but for the good of the Memphis food scene in general. But the service has to improve in a serious way. I can't wait to go back & see an extensive, unique & handcrafted cocktail list & significantly elevated, knowledgeable & friendly service. I hope.

Milbrandt Vineyards Tasting

2011-11-16T06:59:00.001-08:00

This Thursday from 5 - 7 pm join me at Joe's Wines & Liquors for a tasting of wines from Milbrandt Vineyards. Buck Milbrandt will be on hand to discuss their unique vineyard sites. The Milbrandt family owns some of the most sought after sites in all of Washington & source to some of the top producers such as Charles Smith, K, Bunnell & Efeste. Come taste some of the best Washington has to offer. The tasting is free & we will be offering special discounts.

Cocktails in The Round

2011-11-15T06:18:00.001-08:00

This Saturday at 4 p.m. at the Majestic Grille come sample some innovative drinks at "Cocktails In The Round". This "Chopped-Top Chef" style cocktail competition will feature a specific liquor along with secret ingredients that will be revealed to the competitors on Saturday. This unique competition will showcase local cocktail innovators at their best. Cost to attend is $15. This admission fee gets the attendees a sample of each competitors drink & the chance to vote on the winner. The event will begin with a demonstration of their modern twist on the art of the shot by Deni Reilly (owner, Majestic Grille) & Mark Cumberland (bartender, Majestic Grille). This will be an ongoing series of cocktail competition events held throughout Memphis. Yours truly will be showing my shaker skills & hopefully taking another win home after "Iron Shaker". Come join me for a fun, exciting & tasty event!

My Latest Cocktail Creations

2011-11-07T20:29:00.000-08:00

Last night I did a test run on a really cool cocktail idea that I've been kicking around lately: a Negroni. I know I know, a Negroni is so well known & it's not that unique or a cool idea even anymore. But I've been dreaming about a white Negroni, or as I named it: Negroni Bianco. For my Negroni Bianco I used 1.5 oz Corsair Gin, 1 oz Cocchi Americano & 1 oz Dolin Vermouth Blanc. I stirred it about 40 times so as not to bruise it too much, poured it over a large cube which wouldn't dilute it quickly. I then peeled a lemon with a vegetable peeler took a 1.5 inch long strip of lemon peel & flamed it over the cocktail. It was bittersweet, pungent but mellow & absolutely delicious. Sorry, no pic.My other cocktail idea that has been haunting me is a spiced Manhattan which I think is very holiday-esque. So, here we go. Pour into a shaker 2 oz Bourbon (either Eagle Rare, Bulleit or Buffalo Trace) with 1 oz Punt e Mes or Dolin Rouge vermouth & 1 oz St Elizabeth's Allspice Dram. I then added 2 dashes of my homemade Allen Benton Bacon Bitter's & one dash of Angostura Bitter's. Shake or stir to chill & pour into a cocktail glass. You can either serve it up or, as I did here, over a large ice cube. I also skewered some of my homemade bourbon & cherry liqueur poached cherries. I give you the the Spiced Manhattan. Delicious.

David O'Reilly & Sweetgrass

2011-11-07T20:06:00.000-08:00

Back in September Joe's Wines & Liquors hosted a wine dinner at Sweetgrass with David O'Reilly of Owen Roe Winery. The menu, as always, was paired perfectly with David's distinctive, expressive & bold wines. We began the evening with a trio of oysters paired with O'Reilly's Pinot Gris 2009 Columbia Valley. Each oyster preparation brought out a different flavor & texture in the wine. My favorite was definitely the raw oyster with mignonette. I guess I'm just a traditionalist that way. Next up was a Delta Sol Farms "Chile Relleno" stuffed with housemade chorizo, queso fresco & served over fennel cream with sriracha.

This unique spin on classic Mexican was paired with Corvidae Wine Co "The Keeper" Cabernet Franc 2009 Columbia Valley. The fennel cream amplified the fennel aroma & flavor in the wine while the spice played off the pepper & dried spice notes. Then we moved on to Confit Duck leg with squash & goat cheese flan with plum glaze paired with two special wines. Both Owen Roe Abbot's Table & Owen Roe Ex Umbris were a lovely match for the earthy duck & tangy goat's cheese. The Abbot's is a unique bottle comprised of zinfandel, sangiovese, blaufrankish, malbec, syrah, merlot. Quite interesting no? Initially I think some people might think it's just the leftovers. In fact O'Reilly & his team are meticulous in their blending of this. It's as if they are using the pantry & all the contents of the spice rack to create a perfect dish. The Ex Umbris is a syrah that initially was a result of a wildfire. The smoky style of this bold red is an ode to the that first "roasted-smoked" vintage. We ended on a superb note. Chef Ryan Trimm & his talented team paired up a Hangar Steak au Poivre with truffled pomme frites, fresh pea shoots, 63° Donnell Farms Egg & Honey Thyme Reduction with Owen Roe Yakima Valley Red Blend.

This gripping, earthy, sensual, heart grabbing red blend acted as a knife through the gorgeously toothsome hangar steak which is my favorite cut of beef. Everything came together beautifully. Chef Trimm's dishes are always delicious but the way in which they were paired was superb. David O'Reilly's wines were absolutely stupendous & just as cool as he is.

Honeymoon

2011-10-27T09:18:00.000-07:00

I'm fluctuating back & forth between still buzzing after the wedding & honeymoon--& the harsh reality of being back to work. Well, at least I like my job so there is that. Kelly & I had an unbelievable weekend with family, friends, food & wine. Our wedding day was gorgeous & it was as if the weather was just for us. The reception was filled with friends, loved ones...more food & fantastic wine & a kick ass DJ (thanks Taylor!) We had a little bit of recovery time before jetting off to New York for a honeymoon in Manhattan where we stuffed ourselves silly & walked all over lower Manhattan. We also went to the city clerk's office & made it all legal. Thank you New York for helping continue our civil rights movement.

Kelly & I promised each other that we won't go a year without returning to New York. I can't wait to return.

We went to Wine Spectator's New York Wine Experience & it was absolutely overwhelming. A wine lover like me was in heaven. I think my head exploded a couple of times actually. I got to see lots of my wine heroes & sample their delicious offerings. One of the highlights was seeing Rollin Soles of Argyle & being able to tell him that Kelly & I just drank his Brut Rose 2008 on our wedding day. He seemed so appreciative & very flattered.

The Experience got me thinking about our events here in Memphis. Comparatively, the Brooks Museum's Memphis Wine & Food Series is a absolutely incredible event & definitely more interactive & personal. Not to mention more affordable...comparatively. Also, there are a bevy of events to choose from in the Series each one unique & very personal.

If you are a Memphis wine lover I highly recommend you attend one or all of these events. You will thank me.

Piggy Ears

2011-10-24T07:55:00.000-07:00

I love pork. Sometimes I think I have a unhealthy relationship with pork. Not even kidding. One of my favorite parts of the pig is the ear. One of my favorite preparations I've ever had of said ear is at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen. Recently (well not almost two months ago but hey I've been busy with wedding stuff!) my husband Kelly & I ate at AMIK with our very good friend Allison. I ordered the pig ear salad & they sent out this:

What we have here is pig ear & Benton bacon hash topped with a runny fried egg. It was perfection. Crispy, yet creamy gelatinous ears with smoky bacon & a luscious egg. Oh...my....god.

But wait! There's more! The guys also sent us out this:

Pig ears with fig agrodolce. Sweet, sour, slightly spicy. Absolutely wonderful. If I can tempt just one person to steer away from the pedestrian cuts of pork & explore the others then I have done my job.

Absent

2011-10-24T07:45:00.000-07:00

I apologize to all 3 of you who read this blog for my absence. I haven't given up just yet I've just been very very distracted. I got married!!! Therefore, the time I would normally have to sit down & write was taken up by planning & such. Plus the copious amounts of celebrating & what not. I promise to get back on this blog & post some really cool (at least I think they are cool) stuff as soon as I decompress from my honeymoon & second marriage in New York City. I'll explain, Kelly & I had a ceremony with family & close friends then a bad ass reception. However, since we live in Tennessee it's not as if its legal in anyway. Which isn't necessary to us seeing that we have been together for 10 years. We decided to take our honeymoon in NYC because we can eat & drink wonderful things but also because we can get married legally. Not as if it's going to change our status here in TN but it's political, no?

I'll be back soon.

Project Green Fork's Loving Local Celebration

2011-09-26T14:19:00.000-07:00

I love Project Green Fork & if you love food & eating out then you should too. Their Loving Local celebration will be super fun so go here & buy tickets now! They sold out last year so get on it!!

Good food
Local Beer
Organic Wine
Auction items

What more could you ask for?

This Sunday October 2nd go support an incredibly important organization!

Click here for tickets

Argentina Wine Dinner At Napa Cafe

2011-09-07T06:20:00.000-07:00

If you are a fan of Argentina's wines then you owe it yourself to book a seat for Napa Cafe's wine dinner this Thursday. Napa's food is outstanding & they always put on incredible dinners. Their special guest will be Martin Lazorenco, Export Director for Michel Torino wines. He oversees all aspects of the export business for Michel Torino and personally handles the USA,Uk, Ireland, and the Netherlands.

Michel Torino Wines are located in the Cafayate region of northwest Argentina. Their 1500 acres are located in a rugged high desert region at 5500-6500 feet.

FIRST COURSE
Grilled provoleta, chimichurri, honey, sprouts, preserved lemon
DON DAVID Reserve, Torrontes, Cafayate Valley, 2008

SECOND COURSE
"Tuna salad sandwich", Ahi tuna, Gravenstein apples, grapes, Delta pecans, toasted brioche
DON DAVID Reserve, Chardonnay, Cafayate Valley, 2009

THIRD COURSE
Slow cooked lamb shoulder, spiced pumpkin puree,wilted spinach, hazelnuts
DON DAVID Reserve, Tannat, Cafayate Valley, 2007

FOURTH COURSE
Grilled beef tenderloin, crispy potatoes, roasted baby onions, red wine reduction
ALTIMUS, Malbec-Cabernet-Bonarda-Tannat, Cafayate Valley, 2007

DESSERT
Pistachio cake, homemade strawberry ice cream, Torrontes sabayon

Call now for a seat!

Napa Cafe
5101 Sanderlin Ave.
Thursday September 8, 2011
Reservations 901-683-0441
$65.00 per person

New Wave

2011-08-31T18:36:00.001-07:00

I've been experimenting with cocktails again & here is a delicious wine I created. It's a play off the classic Negroni which employs gin, Campari & sweet vermouth. One of my favorite spirits to play with lately is Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur. It's bright fresh & somehow more exotic than most other orange liqueurs. Yes it is sweet but it's balanced by the blood orange's hint of bitterness & it can easily be a component in many drinks.

Sicilian

2 oz gin (preferably 209 or Corsair Artisan)

1 oz Solerno

1.5 oz Sweet Vermouth (preferably Carpano Antica or Dolin Rouge)

2 dashes Angostura Bitters

4 dashes Fee Brothers Grapefruit Bitters

It is refreshing, crisp, bright & has a back note of bitterness that is absolutely delicious.

Dinner with David O'Reilly of Owen Roe

2011-08-27T07:29:00.000-07:00

I am extremely proud to announce Joe's Wine's & Liquors next wine dinner. On Sunday September 11th our special guest will be David O'Reilly owner/winemaker of the highly sought after & critically acclaimed Owen Roe Winery. David & his team craft some of the most hauntingly sensual Oregon wines & gripping earthy, bold Washington wines. We will host David at a wine dinner at Sweetgrass on Sunday September 11th at 6:00 pm. Cost to attend is $65/person inclusive. Seating is limited so please contact Joe's as soon as possible to secure your seat. Please call the store at 901.725.4252 or stop by to reserve & pay for your reservations. Due to the limited amount of seating we are unable to "hold" seats for you. Payment must be made prior to the dinner. If you have any questions please feel free to contact the store by phone or by email joeswineliquor@bellsouth.net

Drinks Trend

2011-08-19T06:40:00.000-07:00

It would seem that trends can be interesting or irritating...sometimes all at once. What is the shelf life of a trend? Can a trend solidify something's place in history or is it merely passing fancy?

Case in point; the Pisco Sour.

It's difficult for me to call this a trend because I remember my grandmother making them & I know for a fact that they have been around for a long time before that even. However, the cocktail culture that is exploding across the nation seems to have dubbed this the next "it" drink.

I for one am pleased by this because one of the ingredients that really is the key to this drink is egg white. Anytime I can use something not typically associated with the bar in a drink then I'm happy. What the egg white does is emulsify the cocktail & give it a creamy mouth feel. No it doesn't taste like an egg so don't worry.

Here is my take on it. I like to tweak so feel free to take liberties.

Pisco Sour

3 oz Peruvian Pisco
1 oz lemon juice
1/2 oz thyme-lavender infused honey syrup
teaspoon orange blossom water or rosewater
Fee Brothers lemon bitters
Fee Brothers aromatic bitters
1/2 egg white

Combine pisco, lemon juice, syrup, water, egg white & 1 dash lemon bitters in a cocktail shaker WITH NO ICE. Shake vigorously to emulsify the egg white. Add ice, shake to chill & pour into a coupe glass. Dot the foam on top with 3 dashes of Fee Bros aromatic bitters.

The Questions

2011-08-15T12:47:00.000-07:00

On a regular basis I get asked

"How did you learn so much about wine?"

"When did you get into wine?"

"How do you stay in such good shape when you drink so much & eat so much good food"
Seriously I have been asked this question often enough. My answer is that I swim laps & lift weights on a regular basis.

The other questions aren't answered so quickly or easily. I was raised in a multi cultural household where chicken-n-dumplins, spaghetti & fried chicken lived alongside lengua (beef tongue) & saltenas (empanada style stuffed pastries). My mother & grandmother cooked Latin American & Spanish dishes for us, my grandmother spoke Spanish to us as much as she could. Along with the more exotic family food there was always wine. My parents drank wine & my grandmother would bring wine from South America & Spain whenever she would go visit family. Keep in mind this was in the late 70's & into the 80's when wines from those areas were not readily available much less even heard of. Every once & awhile my sister & I would be given watered down wine to drink alongside the family's full strength glasses. At the time, of course, I thought nothing of it. It was just the way I was raised so I didn't think it was different. Only after I started going to friend's houses did I see that in fact yes I was raised differently. Throughout college I started exploring wine somewhat at the local Southern Illinois wineries. Yes there are wineries in So. Ill. After college I felt like I was drifting. Took an internship & then position at a publishing company in San Francisco. Left SF & moved to Memphis. Worked in restaurants for years & then took a job at a non-profit. Left the non-profit & took a job with Coletta & Company (now Smart City Consulting). It was here where I had a huge realization--I was simply working--. I didn't give a damn about what I was doing. There was no passion & there never was throughout any of those previous jobs. I had no idea what the hell I was doing nor why I was doing it. I was in awe of my boss, Carol Coletta. She was this force of nature that seemed to subsist on biscuits with a little lemon curd & her workload. She was easily one of the most intelligent people I'd ever met. What really amazed me was her passion & dedication for every project that she touched.

I wanted that. I wanted to feel so strongly & passionately about what I did that it was simply second nature. I wanted to work hard yet not realize how hard I was working because I loved what I was doing. Most of all I wanted to believe in what I was doing as if I was meant to do it.

As scary as it was to do I mustered up the courage & quit my job. I was completely freaked out but I knew in my heart that it was exactly what I was supposed to do. While I was working at Coletta & Company I took a part time job at Great Wines & Spirits out in East Memphis. Dipping my toe in the water just made me want more. I studied my ass off & took the Introductory Sommelier Course offered by the Court of Master Sommeliers. Much to my surprise I scored the highest in my entire class! Achieving this really propelled me to take on the Certified Sommelier Exam so soon after the Intro. The Certified exam was the most difficult test I had ever taken, or at least it felt that way. After the three part exam we were released for a break before the results were announced. I remember calling Kelly & telling him "I'm sure I failed. There is no way I passed. I completely screwed that up." He talked me off the ledge & I returned to the hear the results. I passed! Oddly enough my criticism was flipped. What I felt I did well on was actually what I did poorly on & vice versa. It was an interesting moment to say the least.

Soon after that a friend of mine asked me to help out with a wine tasting that her employer was putting on. I said yes & I guess I really impressed them because the store owner, Brad Larson, offered me a job soon thereafter. Working at Joe's Wines & Liquors has been an incredible experience. I've grown so much, learned so much & experienced a great deal.

I'm living proof that you should be doing what you love. I can't imagine doing anything else.

Why We Choose What We Choose

2011-08-10T18:18:00.000-07:00

The point of a wine club & beer club is to showcase new, unique, interesting top quality products that any given member might not select for themselves. The point is not to shovel out the same boring bullshit that you can get just about anywhere. Yes, not everyone in said club is going to like every selection. That's not what we are trying to accomplish. We are trying to expand the palates & minds of those members. Recently, some of the beers that we put in the club at Joe's Wines & Liquors caused some very strong reactions. Some people absolutely HATED the Belgian Geuze Lambics (sour style, spontaneous fermented beers). One member actually poured them down the drain. Another member called me up at the store just to tell me that he was going to quit the club until he tried them. He enjoyed them so much that he decided to stay in the club.

These strong reactions happen often enough but they don't ever cause me to lose track of the focus of each club. I will continue to put wines in their hands that cause reactions. Kelly will continue to put beers in their hands that cause reactions. Yes I select wines because I think the majority of the membership will enjoy & appreciate it. But I don't really give a damn if some of them hate that bottle. What really makes me happy is when a wine makes them think. Of course, when one of my club members comes in & waxes poetic about how much they loved a particular bottle....yeah that feels good too.

5 Boring Guys

2011-08-08T16:12:00.000-07:00

When 5 Guys Burgers came to Memphis you would have thought it was the second coming. I just didn't get all the hype over a chain when there were very good burgers in town made by talented chefs in locally owned restaurants (i.e. City East Grille, Majestic Grille, Cafe 1912, Three Angels, need I continue?). Since it was so far out east, & far removed from Midtown where I live & work, I quickly forgot about it. This past Sunday we found ourselves out east doing some shopping & what not. I was famished so we went by 5 Guys. We ordered & waited & waited & waited & waited. The space looks like a down market Steak & Shake with no table service that utilizes the dining room for storage. The burger was decent size but misleading. It's a double patty but basically the same amount of burger you'd get at the previously mentioned restaurants. It was fine but not close to those other places. The fries were extremely plentiful but greasy & flavorless.

This experience was an unfortunate lesson. It seems like most people in Memphis are so used to mediocre chain food that they actually get excited about it. Sad. Really sad considering that we have a wealth of LOCALLY OWNED restaurants that offer better quality at great value.

Break the Chain! Eat Local! It tastes better.

THE Rose of the Summer

2011-08-02T14:36:00.000-07:00

It's no secret I love Oregon. However, my bias towards this incredible wine growing state doesn't affect my ability to judge quality. If its good its good. With that being said I have fallen head over heels in love with a wine. It's my rose of the summer but I know I'll be drinking this way into December. Not only is it refreshing for the summer heat but it also could pair up with many fall dishes too. Especially the holiday spread at Thanksgiving. I present to you Lachini Rose of Pinot Noir 2010 Willamette Valley $20.99. It's refreshing, brimming with bright fruit & mouthwatering acidity with a lingering spice note & gorgeous texture on the finish. Buy it now (only available at Joe's Wines & Liquors). Drink it all summer (which in Memphis lasts until almost October) & drink it way into the fall. Thank me later.

Dinner at Acre

2011-08-01T07:41:00.000-07:00

Arguably the most anticipated restaurant opening of 2011 was Acre. Chef Wally Joe has a passionate following in Memphis as well as national recognition. Andrew Adams (who juggles chef duty at both Acre & the Brushmark at Brooks Museum) is incredibly talented as well. This culminates at Acre in plates of food that are beautiful without being precious. The space is jaw dropping. The design is elevated rusticity with an incredible attention to detail. It's truly a beautiful restaurant that was very well planned & well thought out. The wine list is a tight collection of lovely bottles, by the glass & (my favorite) by the quartino. There are few selections on this list that I wasn't pleased to see. It has quickly rocketed to the top of one of my most favorite lists in town. Why? Well first & foremost it's unique & not just a collection of ubiquitous labels. Second, it appeals to the wine obsessed as well as the casual drinker; meaning it's approachable & not scary yet still interesting. Most of all, when we ordered a bottle of Bergstrom Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir 2008 Willamette Valley it came out at the proper temperature; not "room temperature". I cannot tell you how many times I've had to bite off a small chunk of ice from my water glass & drop it in my red wine to cool it down. Newsflash--room temperature in the south in the summer hovers around 80 degrees. This does not make the red wine tasty.

Service is comfortable & attentive without being fussy or too silent.

The menu is outstanding. It's a compact collection of delicious plates of food that have been so obviously loved over. But still not even an ounce of pretension whatsoever. It's very very good food using top quality ingredients that are prepared with expert technique so of course there is no need for pretension. I appreciate that quite a bit because it kept me in a constant state of giddy anticipation for the next plate.

First round:

Tomato Tartar with chickpea panise & goat cheese.
Tiny Octopus salad with paprika cashews & avocado
Duck Pastrami with cherry mustard & pickled cippolinis

Entrees:

Halibut with favas, squash & a Lobster sancocho
Sea Scallops with artichokes, fennel, capers, roasted garlic potato puree & buerre rouge

Every bite of food was delicious, absolutely delicious.

We followed that collection up with an artisan cheese course with tasty little accompaniments; a unique twist on Tres Leches & a Chocolate & Peanut Cremieux that was luxurious & unctuous.

I will return soon & when I do I think I might dive into the suckling pig dinner with a group of 10. FYI- you have to order it a week in advance.

Oregon-itis

2011-07-30T09:18:00.000-07:00

I'm still reeling from my June trip to Oregon. I promise to have more posts up about it very soon.

Project Green Fork Turns 3!

2011-07-26T05:48:00.000-07:00

One of the most unique (& necessary) organizations is turning 3 years old & the party is not to be missed. Project Green Fork (founded here in the creative & delicious city of Memphis) works with restaurants to help them become less wasteful & less burdensome to the environment, among many other things. Details for the birthday celebration are below. Come sip some delicious cocktails & wish PGF a happy birthday!

Really, I'm not kidding

2011-07-22T17:21:00.000-07:00

"I'm allergic to sulfur".

Really? Really? You have to be frigging kidding me. I've heard this garbage over & over again & it is exhausting to listen to.

"What organic wines do you have? I know they don't have sulfur in them because they're organic."

Uggh

"I don't want anything imported," after she asked for an Alsatian wine of course "Everything imported has tons of sulfur in it because it has to be preserved."

Jesus lady who fed you this horseshit?

"Well maam we do have quite a few organic & biodynamic wines but their farming practices doesn't necessarily have anything to do with their ahem sulfur content. Also, imported wines (such as the Alsatian you just asked for) don't necessarily have more ahem sulfur content than domestic wines."

"Well, I'm allergic to sulfur so I have to be careful."

gag

"Let me ask you this; how is your reaction?"

"I get sick to my stomach & I get a headache."

"Thats interesting because the 1% of the population who is actually allergic to sulfites has difficulty breathing when they ingest sulfites. Not headaches. Not nausea."

"When you wind up in a coma because of sulfites you tend to be more careful."

You have to be shitting me. Is this woman for real?

Whoever perpetuated the falsehood that getting a minor headache or a bit of hot flashes equals a sulfite allergy should be drawn & quartered. This weekend preferably.

A Few Oregon Pics

2011-07-19T13:39:00.001-07:00

My friend Darlene & the tasting lineup at Erath Vineyards.

Dinner time at the Stoller House.

I love wearing a jacket in June

Neighbors

About to get some delicious Argyle bubbly

Damn I want that bottle of Brut Rose

Rollin Soles' mustache is way cooler than yours

Come On

2011-07-19T13:36:00.000-07:00

I really don't like it when a sales rep tries to sell me a wine by telling me "so & so store is flying through this. They bought, like, 6 or 7 cases of it." Come. On. Really? Are we that store? No. So don't compare us.

Lachini, finally

2011-07-10T07:55:00.000-07:00

I have been a huge fan of Lachini Vineyards ever since my good friend Elizabeth brought them into the Memphis market about 4 years ago. Ron Lachini's wines are elegant yet display such power & grace. I finally got my chance to visit this outstanding vineyard site on my Oregon excursion a few weeks ago. The day couldn't have been more perfect. The sun was shining, spotty clouds were keeping it from being too bright & the vines & Valley were splayed out before us. John Peacock greeted us with snacks & open bottles. Since it was our fourth stop of the day the group was a little restless but we soon were laughing, sipping wine & snacking on sushi. First up was the rose of pinot noir. Such a gorgeous faintly blushing hue but with a deep aroma of fruit, spice & minerals. The texture was lush but very thirst-quenching. It was easy to tell that this bottle would be a perfect foil for a rustic grilled meal. It's also La Tache clone which almost made my head explode when I found that out! Wow.

John poured us some Estate Pinot Noir as we wandered out into the vineyard & relaxed on the stone patio. Nearby is where the new tasting room will be built. That is without a doubt going to be a welcome addition to a neighborhood that also includes Bergstrom & Adelsheim. The pinots are hauntingly good with finishes that won't let up. Delicious. Ron Lachini himself led us through the estate vineyard to discuss farming practices & the trials & tribulations of growing pinot noir.

Lachini not only produces exceptional pinot noir from Oregon but he also crafts gripping reds from Washington State as well. Bold cab & cab blends that can age for 10 years or more. These wines would put any California Bordeaux style blend to shame. But who's comparing?

Thank you Ron & thank you John for an experience the group will never forget!

Now I'm thirsty for some pinot....

Oregon- Day 2 Pt 2

2011-07-02T07:52:00.000-07:00

From Owen Roe we headed over to Dundee to one of my absolute favorite producers; Argyle. This winery makes exceptional pinot noir, chardonnay & riesling. But what makes me really swoon is their sparkling wine. It's just....well....just....words don't really describe how much I love their bubbly. The Brut is yeasty, lush yet crisp, & palate caressing. The http://argylewinery.com/2000-Knudsen-Vineyard-Brut.php (I couldn't find current notes) is absolutely haunting. So elegant yet with an underlying, subtle power & grace. It's a bubbly that I want to save for special occasions yet its a wine that I want to drink every weekend. Now how to balance that....

That was a very big tank that wasn't full at the time but I would have loved to have swam around in it if it was filled with some Extended Tirage 2001

Speaking of which...

Argyle was an incredible stop & they really showed the group absolutely everything. From production to aging to dosage to tirage. We tasted old vintages of chardonnay, every bubbly (except my favorite the Rose) they make & even had a delicious lunch in their private room. Rollin Soles (founder & winemaker) came out & spoke with us about Memphis BBQ & really had a great time interacting with the group. I'll never stop drinking their wines.

Onward to Torii Mor where we had a 3:00 pm appointment with Todd Stewart, National Sales Manager.

Todd was a fellow Southerner & just moved from North Carolina to take the job with Torii Mor. His passion for the wines was blatantly obvious & infectious. It's hard not to be passionate about wines as good as that & located in such a gorgeous setting. Their pinot gris was austere, elegant & loaded with mouthwatering acidity with hints of floral notes & nuttiness. The pinots are elegant, gripping, earthy & obviously can be long-lived. We used the black label Willamette Valley Pinot Noir for wine club in June at Joe's. It was a magical experience for a few to taste one of their wine club wines at the very site it was made.

Now on to Lachini Vineyards

Day 2 - Oregon

2011-06-23T07:43:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the lapse in posts but the rest of our trip was jam packed & didn't allow me a moments rest to blog. So here we go...

Waking up to this wasn't half bad at all especially considering it's 100 billion degrees back home in Memphis.

Our house was located right outside the estate vineyards of Stoller. This picturesque setting is also the source for some world class wines from not only Stoller but also Chehalem & Argyle to name a few.

First stop: Owen Roe

Owen Roe Winery is well known for their bold, dark, & gripping wines sourced from premier vineyards in Washington State. Their winery is located in St Paul, Oregon in the eastern part of the Willamette Valley. Since they are not open to the public this was a rare treat for the Joe's Winos Club.

We were there just as their were bottling the new vintage of Ravenna Riesling in a mobile bottling line.

While most people might find something like this boring everyone on the trip was fascinated by it. Each person was inquisitive & curious about the necessary process to bring wine to market. Since OR uses mobile bottling it showcases how small they really are.

Now to the fun part...

Starting with a delicious pinot gris was a perfect mouth-watering beginning to the day. Fresh, clean, bright, & zippy yet with an undertone of rich pear & hazelnut.

Next it was on to one of my favorite things: barrel sampling. Samples were pulled of two different clones of pinot noir grown side by side in the same vineyard. The group got to experience first hand how unique each clone can be even when grown adjacent to each other. Its one thing to attempt to explain this to someone but its something else entirely to experience. I could see eyes lighting up with the "ok I get it!" face.

After tasting through a few more samples I asked if a barrel sample of the 2008 Red Willow Vineyard Chapel Block Syrah could be pulled. He said yes & ran off for a pitcher. Red Willow is such a desolate & starkly beautiful vineyard producing ruggedly delicious grapes.

We continued on through some other Washington wines of theres such as Rosa Mystica Cabernet Franc which was deep, dark, haunting, gripping, lush & super aromatic. The Yakima Valley Red was plush, with subtle yet bold tannins (I know, seems like an oxymoron) & dark spice & fruit notes.

Next up, Argyle........

Day 1-Oregon

2011-06-16T06:16:00.000-07:00

I got a bit worried when we were in MSP on our layover. Flight delays make me nervous. However, this one was quick & painless & we were on our way to PDX. I never cease to be in awe of the rugged beauty of the scenery when flying into PDX.

As soon as we grabbed our bags & got the vans we were off for Willamette Valley.

First Stop: Erath Winery

Located in the much coveted Dundee Hills AVA this venerable winery has been a touchstone for Oregon wines.

Erath gave us a warm welcome & poured some absolutely stunning pinots for us. There is good reason why they have been around so long.

After Erath we headed to our three vineyard houses on the Stoller Vineyards property. Brad, Brandon & I got to work preparing a very PacNW spread of grilled salmon that I rubbed with dill, mustard, lemon zest, lemon juice, s&p.

Bring on Day 2

Film & Music

2011-06-06T08:01:00.001-07:00

Now I know this isn't food or wine related but this sounds like one of the most unique events. Everyone who can should go check this out.

AMIK & Cooper Mountain

2011-05-30T06:44:00.000-07:00

Simplicity, creativity, modernity & tradition are how I would describe Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen. While modernity & tradition may not seem to easily live side by side these chefs make it seem effortless. However, thats not to say that a lot of work goes into that beautiful plate set in front of me.

We started this most recent meal off with a glass of Cooper Mountain Pinot Gris 2008 Reserve Willamette Valley $16.99. This is a perfect example of what pinot gris can achieve in Oregon. Aromas of almond, pear, fruit blossom & minerals lead to medium bodied yet crisp refreshing palate.

Our first course was a bowl of spaghetti carbonara with fried sweetbreads. This warm hug of a dish was elevated with unctuous sweetbreads. The round texture yet bright nature of the Cooper Mountain Chardonnay 2009 Reserve Willamette Valley $18.99 matched up so delicously. This style of chardonnay is very old world with an emphasis on expressing location rather than oak or malo.

Second course was seared halibut with roasted pistachio puree & spring vegetables paired with Cooper Hill Pinot Noir 2009 Willamette Valley $18.99. The halibut was seared crisp but super tender & moist in the center. The pistachio puree brought out an earthiness in the pinot & they both just sang together in a delightfully savory way. The wines acidity cut through the richness of the puree & a supple fish.

Course three was Donnell Farms Hangar Steak over mustard green shoots paired with Cooper Mountain Pinot Noir Mountain Terroir 2008 Willamette Valley $35.99. I love love love hangar steak because of it's toothsomeness. It takes talent to coax this cut of meat into a tender beauty & A&M know how to do it. Pairing it with a spicy/bitter green shoot was a stroke of genius. The supple, luscious, earthy, elegant & sensual pinot noir was absolutely delightful. What Cooper Mountain is able to do with pinot noir is nothing short of beauty. When you match hauntingly sensual wine with exquisitely prepared food it's easy to have a lovely evening.

French Style California Wine with a French Style Memphis Menu

2011-05-13T16:28:00.000-07:00

As I said in the previous post, I don't really drink much California wine anymore. Not because of poor quality at all but just because my passion lies elsewhere. However, Zaca Mesa is one of the few that get me going. It's so blatantly obvious that ZM looks to France for both inspiration & style. Their wines are beautifully balanced. Chef Ben at Napa Cafe looked to France as well when planning the menu to pair alongside the ZM wines.

The seared walu on the first course was perfectly prepared, super moist & worked so well with the rose & the melon. The sweetness of the melon & the tender fish brought out the fruit & texture of this super yummy pink wine.

Course two was a lovely surprise. I rarely eat chicken because of the multitude of poor preparations & because it seems so boring most times. This was not the case with this chicken. The skin was super crispy, like chicken "bacon", the meat was moist & very flavorful. The sauteed greens were earthy & had a sweet-savory element that was lovely. The viognier just sung alongside this dish. It had great weight but wasn't overly heavy, nice creamy texture but a bright acidity as well.

Two of my favorite things in the world are braised meat & bacon. Put them together & ....well...you get the idea. Braised shortribs with bacon aioli?? Seriously? I want more of this right now, it was rich & succulent & a great partner with the Z Cuvee. The savory -salty-creamy-sweetness of the aioli & the rich meat brought out the texture & spice in the wine. Awesome.

The finale had the other two of my favorite things: syrah & lamb. Now Wellington doesn't necessarily evoke thoughts of France but the technique & presentation did. The meaty-earthiness of the syrah mirrored the earthy flavors & textures of the lamb & the mushroom & the fennel. Absolutely knockout.

I'm constantly surprised by Napa Cafe's food. It's definitely one of the top tables in town.

Zaca Mesa Dinner at Napa Cafe

2011-05-09T15:44:00.000-07:00

There are still seats left for the awesome dinner this Wednesday night (May 11) at Napa Cafe. For the full menu please click here.

It's no secret that I rarely speak about California wines. My passion just lies elsewhere. But make no mistake, when they are good they are really good. Zaca Mesa is an example of a winery that puts a lot of attention on balance. These are gorgeous wines that showcase sustainably farmed vineyards. Rhone style wines that are simply delicious. When matched with the exquisite cuisine of Napa Cafe its sure to be a night to remember. Only $55/person gets a stunningly delicious menu & beautiful wine pairings. Call now for reservations 901.683.0441. Seriously! Call now!

Alise Merritt with Zaca Mesa Winery

2011-05-03T11:45:00.000-07:00

I had the pleasure of recently interviewing Alise Merritt with Zaca Mesa Winery. She will be the guest of Napa Cafe at their wine dinner with Zaca Mesa on Wednesday May 11. For more information about this outstanding opportunity to taste some wonderful wines alongside expertly prepared food click here.

When people ask you "What's a roussanne or viognier?" how do you respond to them?

"I generally say they are an “alternative white” and do my best to pour a splash in a glass for them to taste! Viognier is becoming more widely known. Roussanne is a beautiful wine that so many of us in the trade enjoy sharing this jewel with our friends and favorite wine customers – which usually have not ever heard of Roussanne. I’ll test the waters to see how much interest is shown and allow that to dictate how detailed I get in my explanation. Some just want to taste and enjoy while others may want to know where the name Roussanne originated. Which, btw, when the Roussanne grapes ripen they turn to a russet color (reddish brown) and “roux” is French for russet!"

Syrah, unfortunately, seems to be one of those grape varieties that ebbs & flows with trends. Zaca Mesa thankfully seems to ignore what trends say & just continues producing beautiful syrah. What do you see out in the market in response to your syrahs?

"It’s no surprise that when I meet with someone within the trade that loves Syrah and is enthusiastic, they are able share their passion and create a huge following. On the other hand, if I meet with someone that says they love Syrah but are unable to move it (restaurant, retail shop, wine club, etc.) or they might say their particular market “isn’t a Syrah market,” they are usually right. Regretfully Syrah may be the last one invited to the party but is often times the belle of the ball!"

Rhone & Rhone style wines are some of my favorite. Have you seen the thirst for these types of wine increase, remain steady or decrease over the course of your time with Zaca Mesa?

"People within our profession (Restaurant Owner, Sommelier, Retail Consultant, Food and Beverage professional, etc.) love Rhone style wines and in particular Syrah. We are quite passionate and are always trying to convert and enlighten those that will listen and take the time to taste these beautiful wines! Since blends have been one of the popular trends, I’ve seen an openness, willingness and thirst for our wines."

Zaca Mesa has been blessed with some very good critical acclaim & scores. Is that a double edged sword?

"Scores, accolades and acclaim are a great deal like life and we roll with it. We’ve discovered that in general Wine Spectator leans toward our Syrah, Wine Enthusiast our Whites and Robert Parker (no surprise) our blends and it shows in the scores. So there’s usually some kind of solid acclaim out there for our wine. We hope that people will use these as a guideline and allow their taste buds to be the judge as to whether or not they enjoy our wine!"

What's your latest favorite pairing with which Zaca Mesa wines?

"Wasabi covered almonds and our Viognier!"

Join Alise Merritt of Zaca Mesa Winery at Napa Cafe on Wednesday May 11 at 6:30 p.m. for a fun night of great wine & delicious food. Cost to attend is $55 per person plus tax & gratuity. For reservations please call 901.683.0441.

Memphis Wine & Food Series

2011-04-26T14:08:00.000-07:00

For more information please click here

Cocktail Time

2011-04-26T09:08:00.001-07:00

The warm weather is upon us & what better way to toast to it then with some hand-crafted cocktails! Here are a few recipes that we've been enjoying lately. All liquors are in stock now.

Spring Green

1 oz Thatcher’s Cucumber Organic Artisan Liqueur ($19.99)

3 oz Corsair Artisan Gin ($28.99)

½ oz lime juice

2 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters ($7.29)

Pour in an iced filled shaker, stir until chilled then pour into an iced highball glass, garnish with cucumber or lime peel or both

Red Agave

1 oz Thatcher’s Blood Orange Organic Artisan Liqueur ($19.99)

3 oz Milagro Reposado Tequila ($30.99)

1/2 oz of lemon juice

1 dash Peychaud’s Bitters ($7.99)

Pour in an iced filled shaker, shake until chilled, then pour into a chilled martini glass. Sprinkle with sea salt.

Euro Blanc

1/4 oz Luxardo Maraschino ($28.99)

2 oz Dolin Blanc Vermouth ($12.99)

1 dash Regan's Orange Bitters

squeeze of lemon

Dry Sparkling Wine (Segura Viudas Brut $9.99 or Zardetto Private Cuvee Brut $15.99 or Montaudon Brut Champagne $35.99)

Add first four ingredients to ice filled shaker, shake until chilled, pour into champagne flute or wine glass, top with sparkling wine or champagne. Garnish with lemon twist.

Wine Racists

2011-04-25T07:18:00.000-07:00

I have wonderful customers, especially the wine club members. These people have no resistance to "going there" with me. Cotes du Rhone blanc? Sure! Washington State lemberger? Bring it! Corvina? Yes please!

I love that. Its what keeps me working so hard, helps fuel my passion, & quite frankly just thrills me.

But there is one thing that makes me cringe, makes me angry, & sends shockwaves of irritation throughout my body: Wine Racism

Wine Racism manifests itself in a few ways.

"I don't drink white wine. I only drink red."

"Uggh, I HATE riesling"

"Rose? eww isn't that, like, white zin or something?"

"I only drink white because all the sulfites in red wine give me a headache"

oh....my...god

Look, first & foremost I truly believe you should drink what you like but don't use that as an excuse to not explore other wines.

Open your minds a little & if you trust your retailer then listen to them. Ask questions, be inquisitive, take a chance.

But for the love of god DON'T BE A WINE RACIST!!!

Overheard At Easter Brunch

2011-04-24T15:39:00.001-07:00

"good afternoon ma'am. Do you have a reservation?"

"No! But we are first on the wait list!"

"well ok ma'am. But do you have a reservation?"

"No! I said we are first on the WAITLIST!"

"well ok. I'll go get the hostess."

What in the hell is wrong with people? I truly believe that people should have to take a class on how to behave at a restaurant.

Andrew Will Winery Dinner at Napa Cafe

2011-04-17T10:41:00.000-07:00

I wish Napa Cafe was closer to where I live because I would walk there on a weekly basis.

Chef Ben rocked out an absolutely delicious meal for a dinner with Chris Camarda of Andrew Will Winery. Chef is creative & engaged I definitely get the impression that he is always open & wanting to learn & experiment. Chris' wines are some of the most bold yet expressive & lingering wines I've ever tasted. Together the food & the wine sang a beautiful chorus. I had the pleasure of sitting with Chris & Robin Pollard, Executive Director of the Washington Wine Commission. We talked about everything from David Ramey to UC-Davis & Tuscan wine law. Those of you who missed it better start paying close attention to the events coming up in the next few months!

Course 1:Duo of Kumamoto Oysters. Honeysuckle & Mango, Coconut & Lime
paired with Cuvee Lucia Semillon Last In Line Vineyard 2009
&
Cuvee Lucia Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon Velvet Canyon 2009

These oysters were perfectly dressed with bright accompaniments. What the chef topped each one with was a playful take on mignonette. The oysters were never overshadowed, just enhanced. Both wines were brightly acidic with citrus notes, and an especially lanolin like quality in the blend. Absolutely one of the best starts to a meal I've ever had.

Course 2: Handmade Potato Gnocchi with a Tomato Portugaise Sauce
paired with Cuvee Lucia Sangiovese Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2008.

The gnocchi were crisp on the outside & pillowy-creamy on the inside. The sauce played off the acidity & herbaceous qualities of the sangiovese quite nicely. I'm always shocked by how traditional Italian varietals come across from Washington. They shine with beauty.

Course 3: Duck Confit, Delta Grind Polenta, Wild Game Sauce
paired with Champoux Vineyard 2006

I love love love duck. Absolutely adore it. This confit was rich & unctuous which led into the rich, creamy polenta & the earthy suace. It was a little salty but not too overpowering. The red blend from Champoux Vineyard was a lesson in balance. Fruit was there, weight & texture were there, tannins were present & everything was tied together by the acidity.

Course 4: Tea rubbed Lamb Loin, Sunburst Squash, Candy Stripe Beets, Natural Jus
paired with Annie Camarda, May's Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Wow, this pairing was out of control. The tea & earthiness really matched up well with the grip & tannin of the cab. The acidity cut through the lamb so perfectly. A new flavor was created in my mouth. Excellent.

Course 5: Harris Ranch Beef Tenderloin, Wild Mushrooms, Red Wine Sauce
paired with Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2005 & 2006

I don't like tenderloin. It's too soft, no texture, almost flaccid. However, this came out with some nice toothsomeness to it. It was cooked to a perfect medium & was livened up with the earthy mushrooms & bold red wine sauce. The wines were.....perfection. I can't really describe them because I "felt" them more than "tasted" them. They were the kind of wines that made me close my eyes & lose grip on my surroundings for just a moment.

Napa Cafe knows how to do it. Their food is delicious, their wine list is super cool & unique & the service is comfortable yet professional. If you haven't been in awhile you need to go back immediately. If you've never been....well what the hell is wrong with you??!

One last thing. Even though the event was great I was disappointed in the attendance. The smaller crowd made it intimate which is always nice but I wish more people would have gotten on board with this. We as a city need to support our independent restaurants because they are the ones doing the unique events such as this. They are the ones taking risks & keeping true to their passion. They are the ones hosting world class wine makers from around the country & around the world. Yet for some odd reason, they don't get the press. There was a very short & completely bland one or two sentences in the newspaper about the dinner. Nothing talking about how Chris Camarda makes less than 5000 cases a year & produces some of the most sought after wines in the market. Nothing about how down to earth, driven & intelligent he is. Certainly nothing about how Napa Cafe was pulling out all the stops for this event. Yes they used twitter, facebook & email. But if we are truly going to elevate our city to the world culinary stage we as a food loving community need to stop talking about chain restaurants & how expensive a bag of chips are & start talking about what our very own food & wine loving independent restaurants are doing.

Chris Camarda of Andrew Will Winery

2011-04-05T12:54:00.001-07:00

I had the pleasure of doing a little email interview with Chris Camarda, the brilliant winemaker/owner of Andrew Will Winery. Join us at Napa Cafe on Monday April 11 for a wine dinner with Chris & his amazing wines. More information here.

What is it like being thought of as one of the best wineries in America? What drawbacks are there if any?

"Notoriety is good for sales especially when you are from Washington. I would prefer that people are talking about Washington and not me. No drawbacks"

What is one of the most recent food pairings you had with one of your wines that just blew your mind?

"At my home we had 2007 sorella with a prime rib purchased form Bryan Flannery."

In Memphis we industry professionals don't seem to get as much as hesitation from consumers regarding Washington wines as we did even 5 years ago. Are you seeing that industry wide in other markets as well?

"The place. Washington State.We are starting to get into people’s minds. They are starting to realize that we can produce very fine and even great wines. The challenge is to create a psychology that competes with Bordeaux’s. We already know that we are over all a superior place to grow fruit. Getting others to even contemplate the possibility is a great hurdle. Of the 2500 to 3000 Chateau in Bordeaux only a few hundred are producing wines worth looking for. In Washington we thousands and thousands of acres that can produce wines which can compete with the 250 top Bordeaux ch if the winemakers are up to it."

palaTABLE 4.3.11

2011-04-04T07:35:00.000-07:00

Can you still call something underground if it is mentioned in print? No matter how we refer to this supper club-underground restaurant-chef showcase it continues to increase in quality, uniqueness, nerve, creativity & attitude. Joe Morris who is kitchen workhorse at Tsunami & lords over the bar on Sundays at Cafe 1912 was the chef for what he dubbed last night "palaTABLE". I saw a menu in progress but that by no means prepared me for what I was to experience. This man took me on a culinary journey the likes of which I will remember for a very long time.

1: pea, lavender

What a way to start! Beautiful but most importantly-delicious. So creative yet not overpowered with manipulation.

2: spinach, black tea, olive oil, milk

The spinach was meaty & creamy with a bright freshness.

Course 1&2 were paired with Ken Forrester "Petit" Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa

4: beet, young garlic, arugula

I love beets, I love beets, I love beets. As far as garlic is concerned, the younger the better!

5: mushroom, milk, soil

I want a tall glass of this every afternoon as a pick-me-up. It was invigorating & so purely tasted of mushroom.

Course 4&5 were paired with Siduri Pinot Noir 2009

6: duck eggs, mustard green, smoke, whey

This was like duck egg creme brulee or egg re-imagined as it's own custard.

7: cheese, honey, pecan, apple

The cheese with the apple & the pecan butter "powder". Seriously? My my my. So rich & delicious & showcased Joe's talent at molecular gastronomy. He did it right in that he employed techniques but didn't allow the dinner to become ABOUT the techniques. The way in which he presented everything was to amplify the freshness of what he had available to him locally.

Course 6&7 were paired with Alto Almonzora "Este" 2008

Course 8 was rosewater with blueberry & white pepper paired with my cocktail of Creme de Violette, Eva's Limoncello, & Segura Viudas Brut Reserva. Gorgeous.

What a stupendous meal. I want to eat Joe's food on a regular basis.

AZ Wines

2011-03-22T13:18:00.000-07:00

Tool, A Perfect Circle & wine fans in general, rejoice! The wines of Maynard James Keenan & Eric Glomski are in stock at Joe's Wines & Liquor. There is a gorgeous rose(Dayden, $16.99), an earthy Rhone Blend (Nachise, $22.99), a Bordeaux style cabernet sauvignon (Dala, $24.99) & a California mystery red blend (Merkin Chupacabra, $24.99). Joe's is the only store in town to have the rose so get it while you can!

Do Sushi

2011-03-21T07:42:00.000-07:00

Since Do Sushi opened in Cooper-Young next to the Beauty Shop it has been one of the top sushi joints in town. The innovative rolls, good service, & unique atmosphere keeps me going back for more. My friend Alison & I recently chowed down on some dishes that were lovely.

We started with pork gyoza with beautifully briny black seaweed. The texture of the pork was rich & unctuous & the dish had beautiful hints of ginger, sesame, chili. So delicious.

Behold our platter of sushi:

From traditional to modern they run the gamut but they were all delicious. I appreciate the simple, clean presentation & the fresh garnishes. The sushi chefs at Do really know whats up.

Ron Bunnell @ Tsunami

2011-03-21T07:24:00.000-07:00

Tsunami has been around for 12 or 13 years I believe. It continues to be one of my favorite places to eat & drink at in all of Memphis. Recently Joe's Wines & Liquors hosted a wine tasting with Ron Bunnell of Bunnell Family Cellar in Washington State. Ron's wines are absolutely stunning. From lithe, aromatic whites to bold, rich, gripping reds. He lets the vineyard sites come through to produce magic. Now pairing a Pacific Rim style restaurant with a winemaker who specializes in Rhone varietals might not seem like the best idea. On the contrary, it was delightful.

I worked with Rumi, the manager, to pair the tasting portions with the wines we were pouring. Rumi coordinated with Joe & Donny in the kitchen & they created dishes that matched up beautifully with each wine.

We started the evening off with a glass of the zesty, aromatic, bracing River Aerie Gewurztraminer. It makes for a perfect aperitif & I could easily see myself kicking it with this wine all summer long. Which in Memphis is unfortunately a very very long time!

First Tasting Plate: bacon wrapped dates in a spicy red sauce paired with Bunnell Family Cellars Grenache
Beautiful pairing, the sweet gelatinuous nature of the date & smoky meaty bacon played off the grip & dark fruit of the grenache.

Second: Smoked Salmon Bruschetta with herb-mango salsa & parsley salad paired with Bunnell Family Cellars Lia
Salmon is a very versatile fish for red wine & both came together in a lovely way. The Rhone style blend just popped with the smoky briny quality of the salmon & the acidity of the tomatoes

Third: Orange-Chili glazed beef satay paired with Bunnell Family Cellars Mourvedre
This mourvedre is dark & deep but also has a distinctive citrus, almost kumquat, flavor note that is just so cool & unique. The beef in chili-orange glaze brought out more fruit & dark bittersweet notes in the wine. So tasty.

Fourth: Walnut Crusted Lamb Loin with Blueberry Coulis paired with Bunnell Family Cellars Syrah Clifton Hill Vineyard
Syrah & lamb are a no brainer right? But what they did here was sublime. The nut crust played off the texture of the wine while the blueberry sauce & the gaminess of the lamb were a beautiful contrast to the weight, gaminess & blue-smoky fruit of the syrah. Joe used some lamb kidney in the coulis that gave it such a rich mouthfeel. Superb.

Fifth: Coriander Crusted Beef Tataki with White Bean puree, Newman Farm Bacon & Mizuna paired with Bunnell Family Cellars Syrah 2004 Boushey Mcpherson Vineyard & 2007
Wow. I mean....wow! The 2004 syrah is gamy, meaty, smoky, earthy & has all this dark heady espresso notes to it that just grab me. It grabs ahold of me every time I sip it. Its the kind of wine that you close your eyes while sipping it. The perfectly tender texture of the beef & the coriander crust were a lovely, earthy match with both wines.

Thank you Tsunami! I love you!

Andrew Will's Chris Camarda at Napa Cafe

2011-03-15T11:48:00.000-07:00

Arguably some of the most highly sought after, critically acclaimed & overwhelmingly delicious wines in the U.S. come from Andrew Will Winery. They produce elegantly rich & bold wines from some of the best vineyard sites in America. Napa Cafe, one of Memphis' restaurant gems, hosts Chris Camarda's first visit to Memphis. He will be here for just one night so this will be your only chance to experience these wines with the master who crafted them. Napa Cafe will be pairing a menu of outstanding cuisine alongside these exquisite wines. $75 per person plus tax & gratuity. Call 901.683.0441 for reservations.

Willamette Valley Vineyards at Restaurant Iris

2011-03-07T08:32:00.000-08:00

I've said it before & I'll continue to say it. I'm obsessed with Oregon. It's food, its landscape, its people but mostly its wine. Willamette Valley Vineyards is one of the larger wineries in Oregon & they produce delicious bottles that really reflect the Oregon style & especially its soil & climate. Winemaker Don Crank just so happens to be a Memphis boy too! Restaurant Iris hosted Don for a dinner paired with wines from Willamette Valley Vineyards.

First Course:
Tennessee Foie Gras paired with Champagne "caviar" & pickled cauliflower paired with Riesling

This is a riesling that will win over naysayers. It has a nervy acidity with mouthwatering fruit & a nice mineral hit. This wine is seriously quaffable & cut right through the rich, earthy, unctuous & delicious foie gras. I'm more than thrilled that we can get fresh foie gras so close to home.

Second Course:
escargot & housemade gnocchi paired with Pinot Gris

Shockingly, I have never had escargot before. Not because I avoided it but just because any opportunity I might have had to order it I've always opted for something I found more intriguing. Kelly English's gnocchi is one of the best dishes I've ever experienced. His gnocchi is pillowy, light, creamy, & so very comforting. They are a beautiful contrast to the toothsome yet tender snails. These little guys were earthy & briny which the garlic laced buerre blanc elevated & amplified nicely. The pinot gris' acidity contrasted quite well with the sauce & briny snails. The dish really brought out a hazelnut-like nuttiness in the wine.

Third Course:
Newman Farms pork with grits in a chardonnay ragu paired with Chardonnay

Newman Farms pork is some of the best out there & in the hands of such a talented chef the true natural flavor just sings. The roasted pork easily gave way to my fork due to its tenderness. The sauce was rich but not heavy & the creamy grits were near perfect. Most chardonnays would overpower a dish like this but thats the beauty of this bottle. It is more Meursault in style with a round texture but elegance & acidity as well. I'm not a chardonnay basher but I just don't drink them. This bottle I would drink!

Fourth Course:
Dueling Brulee-Strawberry Buttermilk Creme Brulee & Chocolate Creme Brulee with a pecan cookie paired with Whole Cluster Pinot Noir

This wine was beautifully translucent with a nice ruby color. The aroma was intoxicating with earthiness, a hint of mushroom, cherry & tea. The fruit & acidity in the wine was a nice match with the strawberry buttermilk. It didn't pair up with the chocolate as well, they seemed to clash. However, it's quite difficult to pair "dry" wines with dessert. I know most people will say cab & chocolate always works. Yeah it works if its new world cab (i.e. Cali or Aussie) because you are putting sweet with sweet. But an elegant pinot with dark chocolate didn't sing. No matter. This dinner was out of control delicious!

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen's Swine & Wine 2011

2011-02-23T15:58:00.001-08:00

If there ever was a holy animal I think it would be the pig. Chefs Michael Hudman & Andrew Ticer of Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen took that holy animal & gave us a truly spectacular meal that drove my porkaholism to a new disturbing level. These guys have done this dinner 3 years running to celebrate the pig slaughter in Italy. Last year's meal was impossible to top...or so I thought.

#1
Snout: Frito Misto, Deviled Egg, Popcorn paired with housemade Bacon IPA
What we have here is a lesson in rustic snack food made with pork love. Fried snout is now my new obsession. I want it in salads, chocolate bars & with my eggs in the morning. The housemade pork rinds were crisp, light & perfectly seasoned. I'm not even kidding, these guys made a bacon infused IPA & it was really good. More elegant than you would expect & with just an undertone of smoky, bacony goodness.

#2
Head: Pastrami, Crouton, Brown Butter paired with Cooper Mountain Tocai Friulano 2009 Willamette Valley
The pastrami was made with some super tasty part of the head & the croutons were made with head cheese. I could have popped those croutons in my mouth all night, crunchy yet unctuous & perfectly crisp with the right amount of salt. I love the Cooper Mountain Tocai with its bracing acidity & hint of nuttiness which sliced through the tongue pastrami. So good.

#3
Shoulder: Pork, Pot Pie, Offal, Apple paired with Coltibuono Cancelli 2008 Tuscany
This course was the closest thing to "cute" that we ate that night. It looks like an egg doesn't it? The rich filling of shoulder & various organ meats was a nice contrast to the brightness of the apple based sauce on top. Of course the pasty was made using lard. Delicious, delicious lard. What is needed with the boldness of offal is acidity & the Cancelli had that in spades.

#4
A/M "Ramen": Pork Belly, 63 degree egg, brodo paired with Boroli Barbera d'Alba 2008 Piedmont
Two words; skin noodles. Yep. The "ramen" was made from pig skin. Ingenious. I don't know how they got those noodles to be so tender & succulent. The broth was some serious stuff. I wanted to jump in the bowl & swim around. The pork belly needs no words because of course these guys rocked out some good belly. The egg was sublime. Creamy, rich & soooo luscious. The barbera brought spice & darkness which played nicely off the asian spice laced brodo.

#5
Pasta: Smoked flour, Lardo, Tomato Sugo paired with Taurino Salice Salentino 2006
Really? Smoked flour? Really? Who thinks of this??! If it wasn't evident before its obvious that Michael & Andrew are quite creative. When the plate was set down what I saw was a simple plate of ravioli. Therein lies the beauty. Simplicity gave way to earthy porky flavors with an undertone of smoke, luscious risotto filling & rich tomato sugo. The wine brought a figgy quality to the party & matched up nicely with a smokiness all its own.

#6
Ham: Hay, Polenta, Red Eye Mustard paired with a housemade Smoked Porter
The sweet, savory, ham was cooked in hay which lent it a grassy note that played off the sweet-salty nature. I love ham & this was truly a new way of looking at it. The creamy polenta contrasted the firm ham. Again, they rolled out a housemade beer. Where the Bacon IPA was elegant the Porter was bold & super tasty.

#7
Tail: Risotto, onion ash, leeks paired with Marchesy di Gresy Nebbiolo 2008 Piedmont
Braised....pig...tail. Whoa. It's fatty, rich, hardcore. Imagine pig flavor times 20. This showed a lot of guts. To me it was as if they threw down the gauntlet & said "ok guys, you like pig? Show me." It was very rich & was a gorgeous match for the heft, spice & tannin of the nebbiolo.

#8
Zeppole: bacon, chocolate paired with Tenuta Sant'Antonio Ripasso 2007
Bacon & chocolate is a combination that is one of my weak spots. Kelly gets me the Vosges Haut Chocolat Bacon Bars at Christmas in my stocking because he knows how much it gets me. The zeppole was crisp yet fluffy with salty little bits of heavenly bacon. I'm not sure but I think there was bacon fat in the chocolate sauce. This was a pig lovers dessert but more importantly a really damn good finish to a great meal. For me, cabernet & chocolate is kind of boring. Doesn't really work. However, ripasso & chocolate? Heavenly.

Thank you Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen for a meal that I will be talking about & salivating over for a very long time.

Tasting at Majestic

2011-02-22T18:34:00.000-08:00

I just returned from a tasting of Gundlach Bundschu wines at the Majestic Grille. The Majestic is one of those places that simultaneously feels cosmopolitan & comfortable due to a sleek design & welcoming staff. Obviously, I've waxed poetic about their brunch & dinner but they also hold very fun & cool events. This Gundlach Bundschu tasting was a chance to taste some of their current releases as well as view a gallery style showing of the art of Betsy Bird. Chef Patrick Reilly created a selection of pairings that not only matched up with each wine but also was a unique play off the Gundlach Bundschu name. If you haven't been to one of Majestic's events before you should go to the next one.....& the next one after that....& the next one...& so on.

Wine Tasting March 3rd

2011-02-21T08:27:00.000-08:00

The list of wines is starting to shape up for Joe's Wines "Bang For Your Buck: Best Wines Under $20" tasting. Thursday March 3rd join the Joe's staff at Playhouse On The Square from 6:30 pm to 8:30 pm for this awesome wine tasting. You'll be sure to find a few new favorites. Tickets are $35/person & can be purchased at Joe's Wines 1681 Poplar or call 901.725.4252. In addition to the 40+ wines on hand to taste we will be serving some hearty appetizers to balance out all the wine. Don't miss it!

Dinner at Bari

2011-02-20T08:23:00.000-08:00

I'm thankful that we have so many delicious restaurants in Memphis such as Bari. Honestly it has been quite some time since we sat down & had a full meal there. Bari has become something of a favorite watering hole for us due to their brilliant Martini Mondays. Marlinee & Max invited us to come dine with them & we of course accepted. There are numerous vegetarian options for Kelly & seafood/meat options for myself.

I started with a bracingly delicious glass of Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco because really, what better way is there to start a meal? Kelly & Max both started with Hendrick's Gin martinis, their poison of choice. There is something about Hendrick's that is simultaneously savory & sweet with a super refreshing hit of cucumber.

Our first course was an antipasti platter of grilled eggplant, roasted mushrooms, calabrase salami, speck, & a selection cheeses. I'm blanking on the cheeses but quite honestly you can't go wrong with just about any of Bari's cheese selection. Their selection is extensive & the staff is very well versed in each of them.

Next up for me was the Orecchiette alla Pugliese: handmade “little ear” pasta, sauteed rapini, tomatoes, salt cured anchovies, and garlic. The handmade pasta was tender but toothsome with an unctuous creamy texture. The dish hits on all centers of the palate, with a combination of flavors that was absolutely delicious. Savory, salty, sweetness from the tomato & earthiness from the garlic & anchovy. One of the best dishes in Memphis in my opinion.

When ordering my next course it was a difficult decision between the pork special (roasted with honey, chilis & garlic) or the Piedmontese Montana Strip Loin (garlic, olive oil, herbs). I went with the steak.

It was perfectly medium rare & so ridiculously tender presented in a very simple & straightforward way. The beef is the star here & that is a hallmark of Italian cooking: let the ingredients shine through. I'm craving this steak right now as I'm writing this.

We had to have dessert of course, along with a little Tuaca on the side, & I am obsessed with chocolate. Naturally, I went for the Torte di Cioccolato:house made dark chocolate espresso cake with dark chocolate mousse and chocolate ganache. A good dessert can help cleanse the bad memories of a not so good dinner. But in this case, this rich, velvety, earthy chocolate dessert helped continue the smile on my face that started with the first sip of prosecco. Every single morsel of food that evening was near perfect & more importantly, truly delicious. Get to Bari now & have dinner. You owe it yourself.

This Tuesday Feb 22

2011-02-16T16:05:00.000-08:00

You won't want to miss this event. If you are in Memphis this Tuesday do yourself a favor & check this out. This progressive tasting is a great opportunity to taste the delicious food of Majestic Grille & some great Sonoma County wines. Get into it!

F&W People's Best New Chef

2011-02-16T11:43:00.000-08:00

Click here & vote for Ryan Trimm of Memphis' very own Sweetgrass Restaurant for Food & Wine Best New Chef 2011. Sweetgrass has quickly become one of my favorite restaurants in town. If you haven't checked it out, do so. If you have, then go vote for Ryan. Voting concludes March 1.

Willamette & Iris

2011-02-08T07:20:00.000-08:00

Tuesday March 1st Restaurant Iris is hosting a wine dinner with Willamette Valley Vineyards. Winemaker, & former Memphian, Don Crank will be greeting guests, answering questions & sharing insight into the beauty of Oregon wine. Cocktails & passed appetizers begin at 6:00 with dinner following promptly at 6:30. Cost is $65/person plus tax & gratuity. For reservations please call 901.590.2828.

2011-02-07T12:22:00.000-08:00

Friday February 18th & Saturday February 19th Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen is hosting their annual “Swine & Wine Dinner”. Chefs Michael Hudman & Andrew Ticer are getting free range, heritage breed pigs from venerable producer Newman Farms in Missouri. These rock stars of the pork world are the stars of the show in this seven course snout to tail wine dinner. Every year this event sells out so call immediately if you want a reservation. $100 person, cocktails at 6:30 p.m. with dinner starting at 7:00 p.m. Call Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen at 901.347.3569 for reservations.

Bang For Your Buck

2011-02-07T10:57:00.000-08:00

Joe's Wines & Liquor will be hosting the next big wine tasting at Playhouse on the Square Thursday March 3rd 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Tickets are $35/person. This Tasting’s theme will be “Best Bang for Your Buck: Delicious Wines Under $20”. We will be sampling between 35-40 different wines from all around the world alongside tasty appetizers. If you would like to purchase tickets you may stop by the store at 1681 Poplar Ave.

Years Go By

2011-02-05T06:40:00.000-08:00

This month marks the 5th year anniversary of Joe's Wines & Liquors Winos Club. I started working here just 2 months after the Winos Wine Club started & I'm now in control of that club. For $35 per month each member receives 2 bottles of wine that has been personally selected by myself. I taste through countless bottles of wine with my friend & co-worker, Richard Lewis, in order to select the best & most unique. Along with those 2 bottles each member receives tasting notes, they are placed on a special email list & they receive a special discount on wine purchases. Plus, the 2 bottles always amount to way more than $35 of retail value. It's a total bargain. It's been so amazing to watch people's reactions when they see what wines they are receiving. Some at first look at the bottle & say such things as "what is a roussanne?" but then came back to say "that wine was DELICIOUS! I'll take two more." There are few things as satisfying as receiving those positive reactions. I've received my fair share of negative comments of course but not everyone is going to like everything in the wine club. For me it's been about showcasing winemakers & regions that aren't the most well known & also showcasing those that I feel an intense connection with. It's about helping people explore the world of wine. Most importantly it's about sharing. Sharing my passion for wine with others. It's been a lot of fun. I couldn't do this without the support of all 285 members, those who have been with me since the beginning & those who are recent members. Thank you!

No Menu Monday Revisited

2011-02-03T17:04:00.000-08:00

A few months ago Kelly & I went to Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen's No Menu Monday. I'm all for giving over control & just seeing what the chef puts out. Kelly....not so much. However, he was being a good sport & really enjoyed everything he ate. All of us were thrilled with it & couldn't wait to come back. Fast forward to this past Monday & Andrew Michael's Vegetarian No Menu Monday. Now, as I stated in my previous post I pretty much hate labels. However, in this case it was necessary to label it as "Vegetarian" so people would know it wouldn't be an all out pork-fest. We arrived to a packed restaurant. There are few things that make me as happy as seeing a busy independent restaurant. These guys deserve every bit of success that they receive & I really think A-M is a jewel in Memphis' culinary crown. Now, their No Menu Mondays always end with a handwritten menu but I thought I'd start with it since y'all might not have been there.

We brought along many delicious wines to sample but one of the standouts was the Torii Mor Pinot Noir 2008 Willamette Valley $22.99. Anyone who reads this blog knows I'm obsessed with Oregon so of course I brought a bottle of some Oregon deliciousness.

It had a solid backbone, luscious elegant texture & an earthy hit that lingered along so beautifully.

The amuse was unique & exciting-a black olive "oyster". Some molecular gastronomy was in play here & really set the tone for the playfulness of the meal.

First course was the Chubby Vegetarian "scallop". Oyster mushroom, carrot salt, carrot curd & a carrot mint salad. Absolutely wonderful.

Second course of Smoked Ravioli stuffed with a BBQ risotto in bay leaf butter with charred scallion. When it came out I thought the charred scallion was shaved truffle which makes me giddy. However, finding out that it was scallion was pretty unique & exciting too. Again with the playfulness. It was blatantly obvious that Michael & Andrew were having a lot of fun & that carried over to the food & of course the diners.

Each & every course was well thought out but never over wrought, full of flavor, hinting at whimsy & brimming with fun. It's nights like this that I'm happy to be a Memphian & can't help but feel like the luckiest guy in the world. Surrounded with people I love, sipping good wine, eating extraordinary food & never wanting to leave.

Labels

2011-01-30T09:32:00.000-08:00

I've been thinking a lot about food lately......Oh who am I kidding? I think about food all day everyday. But particularly I've been thinking about food segregation. When I hear or see discussion of vegan this or vegan that I want to vomit. In my opinion there is nothing more hollow or soul crushing as veganism. Vegans seem mirthless & sallow to me.

Yet last week I cooked a lentil stew that was vegan if not for the parmiggiano that I grated over the top. Not once did I stop & think "hey, I'm going to eat vegan this week." or "hey what a great vegan stew."

Tomorrow we are going to Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen for their vegetarian No Menu Monday. All I'm excited about is getting some outstandingly delicious food. The fact that it's vegetarian is an afterthought to me. I love dining there & know without a doubt I'm going to enjoy my meal greatly tomorrow.

I realized that it's the labels I have a problem with. That & the pigeon holing that people subject themselves to. No one should ever define themselves by how they eat. Now of course that is entirely different than making positive choices to eat food that is better for you & better for the environment. What I mean to say is that defining your personality as "vegan" or "vegetarian" or "porkaholic" is the same as simply defining yourself as gay or straight. Each & every one of us is so much more than that. Sure, sharing your ideas on food, what you cook, what you eat is exciting & fun & sort of political but it shouldn't define who you are.

Happy Cassoulet!

2011-01-23T18:03:00.000-08:00

Our friends Jeff & Kristi invited us over for a night of cassoulet, pate, cheeses & other culinary delights. Winter in Memphis is the perfect time for such a rich hearty dish. When we arrived they greeted us with J Cuvee 20 Brut. Nothing better than beginning with bubbles! The pate were rich, succulent & earthy & a perfect match with the J. The bubbly cut through the pate like a razor blade.

Our night's lineup is as follows

The Cristom 2005 Syrah was gorgeous. Earthy, resiny with this beautiful preserved mandarin pell note. The hint of smoke & meaty quality really made this a truly sensual wine.

Chateau Lafon du Berger is a Bordeaux house that I've never had before so I was excited to try it. Bordeaux is a region that I've not explored much & I know I need to. The thing is I've just been kind of bored by Bordeaux. However, this bottle was gripping & full of finesse with an underlying power & grace. Quite tasty.

Bunnell Family Cellar "Vif" 2006 is from one of my favorite producers & from one of my favorite regions. This Chateauneuf du Pape style wine was smooth, luscious, round, earthy, spicy & quite unique.

Mollydooker Two Left Feet is a big, brash Aussie wine & it's no secret that this region is not one that I drink from often. Every wine has it's place right? The bold sweet fruit was quite delicious with Kristi's outrageously delicious chocolate dessert. Those things were insanely tasty & I could have shoveled in handfuls of them.

This little beauty has been tucked in the back of my cellar for a number of years & every time I see it I start to drool a bit. I thought this was the perfect time to pop it open. With Kristi's chocolates it absolutely sung. There isn't much ice Cabernet franc out there so when I saw it years ago I knew I had to have it. Filled with dark fruit, nectar, dark floral blossoms, honey & nuttiness.

Perfect end to a perfect meal. Thanks Jeff & Kristi!

A Year in Tastes pt 5

2011-01-20T17:54:00.000-08:00

This gorgeous bottle, but crappy picture, is a lovely Bordeaux style blend from fellow Tennessean Christian Sparkman. Christian & Kelly Sparkman are rising stars in the wine world & produce very expressive & bold wines from some of the best vineyards in Washington.

California does produce quite nice wine. Even I, the Pacific Northwest freak, have to admit that. However, the quality for what you pay is not on the same level as Oregon & Washington. This bad boy is pushing $65 & is absolutely delicious....however is it worth $65? I'll let y'all be the judge.

This was one of my favorite finds of 2010. Arneis has been one of my go to "unique & interesting" wines for awhile but this one....wow. Seriously, it's outstanding. Bright, crisp acidity, citrus & stone fruit with a hint of herb & marzipan. Out of this world. Thank you Currado Family for producing one of my favorites.

Three friends brought three bottles. That's usually how it goes. These three, killer. Totally killer. A Barolo with some age on it is like no other. Incredibly expressive & sensual. Dolcetto "the little sweet one" is usually pleasant, but this one was more than just pleasant. It had a ballsy grip that some dolcettos just lack. Ponzi, my dear Ponzi rosato. What is there to say that I haven't already said? I can't wait for summer to roll around so I can get my hands on some more.

My Delicious Memphis

2011-01-20T17:39:00.000-08:00

I love Memphis for a number of reasons but one that is near the top of the list is how food obsessed this city is. Last week I had a conversation with my friend Joe & it was entirely about food. What he just cooked in the kitchen at Tsunami & what he was going to be cooking at a underground dinner in the Spring. I haven't been able to stop thinking about this conversation because it made me think about how we all talk about food here in Memphis. We talk about what we just ate, we talk about what we want to eat, we talk about what we are cooking or want to cook, & we wax poetic about what we are eating. Or sometimes we just make guttural noises or say "oh....my...god" while we are tucking into whats in front of us.

At The Table in G'town

2011-01-10T12:21:00.000-08:00

It takes a lot for me to leave Midtown Memphis. Seriously. I just don't do it. My friend Brandon Eubanks is a personal chef & has been asking me to come to dinner at he & his partner's house for awhile. However, its outside of Midtown soooo.....it kind of took awhile.

Last week I took the long drive out to Germantown for dinner. I'm glad I did. He threatened me with braised beef shortribs to get me out there & boy did he deliver. Gaze upon this delicious plate.

The ribs were braised beautifully, with lovely texture, nice toothsomeness & a rich unctuousness. Brandon reduced the sauce perfectly so it coated the ribs & orzo. "What's the unique spice in the sauce?" "Cinnamon," Brandon said. Very cool. I love spices like cinnamon that are typically thought of as being used in baking sweets. When implemented into a savory dish cinnamon can really be delicious in addition to being that flavor profile that can make the diner go "hmmm, what IS that?"

Lovely dinner. It was worth driving to G'town.

A Sneak Peek at ACRE Restaurant

2011-01-05T18:19:00.000-08:00

Arguably the most anticipated restaurant openings of the year has to be ACRE, Chef Wally Joe's new restaurant. Wally's food is so unique, so inspired & absolutely delicious. He has without a doubt garnered a following in Memphis as well as national clout. There is a coterie of people that are hounding him on a constant basis "when are you opening?" "when are you opening?"!! That is a testament to the man himself.

This afternoon Chef Wally Joe showed Kelly & I inside the building & behind the construction plastic. As we perused the space he talked us through the restaurant design & lay out. Outside in the back tucked between the parking lot & the showcase dining room will be a hidden oasis patio laid in stone nestled adjacent to what looked to be a dry stream bed & amongst tall trees. I instantly imagined myself sipping on delicious cocktails at a table right in the corner with friends.

We went back in the building through the kitchen & sounds of knives, searing pans & kitchen clatter began to ring in my ears. Its as if I could see a brigade of cooks preparing what will be some of the best food in town. We walked out the kitchen & passed a large private dining room big enough for 12-14 people. The side dining room will have a cozy fireplace & plush round banquette tables for diners to get comfortable in. When we walked into what is slated to be the main dining room I was in awe. The space is big! Tall ceilings, rough hewn wooden walls, tons of natural light & an insane amount of windows to gaze out of.

The small bar area will seat a few people at the bar itself along with tall tables to grab a bite & a quick drink at. The cocktail list is sure to impress & make people want to sample their way through it.

Even though the space is still being worked on I could see every detail that Chef Wally Joe was describing.

I can't wait for it to open!

Christmas Eve at Restaurant Iris

2010-12-31T06:49:00.000-08:00

After a long grueling Christmas Eve workday at the wine shoppe all I needed was a cocktail & some decompression. However, Kelly had other plans for us. I came home, cleaned up & we headed to Restaurant Iris for a good meal & some good vino. I love walking into a restaurant & seeing the place full with happy diners. The energy at the restaurant was jovial, joyous & smiling happy faces all around were making that "oh my god this is so delicious" face.

I brought along one of my favorites to pop open

The Champoux Vineyard is one of the premier growing sites for Bordeaux varietals. When we first popped this open I was a little worried because the cork sort of...disintegrated. At first sniff it seemed a little jammy, almost roasted but after about 45 minutes I remarked to Kelly that "this has developed into the wine I hoped it would be. It's the wine I wanted." The dark fruit gave way to gripping, earthy texture & all kinds of spice notes were popping out. Absolutely divine.

My first course was

Roasted Marrow Bones with Pico de Gallo & Fresh Brioche. Mmmm meat butter. The luscious texture on the soft bread with the brightly acidic pico was a texture & flavor sensation that almost made me lose my mind. Whoever was just thinking "eww" because of the picture needs to get over themselves, get to Iris & order this immediately! Absolutely one of the best dishes I've had.

Next up

Braised Lamb Shanks.

I'm a total sucker for a good shank. Seriously. The rich meat that had been cooking down for hours just melted away in my mouth. It was a total "eyes rolling back in the head" moment. Paired with the Andrew Will Champoux I almost lost all concept of space & time.

I joked with my friend Jaime, our server, that I needed a straw to suck out the marrow in the shank too. I can never have too much marrow. She promptly returned to our table with straw in hand.

Memphis Is Not The Problem

2010-12-29T17:22:00.000-08:00

In the latest issue of Memphis Daily News Chef Ben Vaughn details the demise of his Cooper Young restaurant Grace. For the article click here.

There have been a rash of restaurant closings in Memphis lately. When any independent restaurant closes its a very sad sad time. No one wants to see an independent restaurant close because they speak so much about our culture & overall personality of our wonderful Memphis.

However, I take issue with a few things in this article. "We did well with people coming to town, but in my opinion, there's a small group of diners in Memphis and all the restaurants share the same customers." The first part of this statement implies that Memphis isn't ready or "cultured" enough for what this restaurant was putting out. I beg to differ. A few examples are as follows. Bari Ristorante puts out unique & distinctively Southern Italian cuisine that is unlike what most people think of when they think of Italian. Restaurant Iris has dishes such as roasted marrow bones, foie gras & sweetbreads. Sweetgrass serves duck rillettes & beef carpaccio. There is no shortage of cuisine in Memphis that goes against the typical "meat & potatoes".

You Have Got To Be Kidding Me

2010-12-28T18:29:00.000-08:00

Just when I think people could not get more self absorbed, entitled & generally ridiculous along comes someone who surprises me. This woman came into the store a few weeks ago & basically demanded that we get her some free stuff. "My son is building a home bar & I want to get him lots of large empty showcase bottles of wine & liquor. You need to get them to me for free of course. There are other stores working with me on this & you need to give me a reason to give you my business."

Uh. Ok. Exactly what business are we talking about? I don't believe I've ever laid eyes on you & now you are demanding free stuff? Really??

While she was in the store she was on the phone with a friend & looked over at a co-worker of mine & said "my friend is going to take me to this party but only if I promise her that I won't ask for anything free from the host." You have got to be kidding me. So obviously she knows how much of a tacky cheapskate she is.

So my boss says to me "Alright. I'll go out of my way to get whatever I can for this woman so I can show her that this store is where she needs to shop. We are the type of place that goes above & beyond." Well yes. Good point. We do go above & beyond for our customers......even the crappy people who we barely, if ever, see & who demand free stuff.

My boss got a plethora of large format bottles for this woman. She called one day & immediately got an attitude with me on the phone. "Your OWNER was supposed to get me a bunch of FREE bottles for my son's bar & I haven't heard from him."

I said "well actually ma'am he did get a few bottles in for you but he is waiting to hear from some other suppliers to see if he can get some more. He told me he was going to call you by Friday."

Cheap Demanding Freeloading Woman: "Oh thats wonderful. You have my business."

There she goes again about her "business". What "business"? Like I said, I don't believe I've ever even seen this woman before she came in to demand we go out of her way to give her free stuff.

So she came in, picked up her free bottles & again said "you have my business." Uggh.

Flash forward to last night when Cheap Demanding Freeloading Woman comes back into the store & now says "I need large empty bottles of bourbon & scotch too. For free of course. You need to get these for me or I'll take my business elsewhere."

You have got to be kidding me.

Bored

2010-12-21T14:20:00.000-08:00

Could this be anymore boring? C'mon! With all the exciting wines out there F&W is going to give us a guide to Cali Cabs? Yawn.

A Year In Tastes pt 4

2010-12-17T19:39:00.000-08:00

Part of Me is Still in Oregon

This trip to Oregon I took Kelly with me to show him why I fell in love with this place.

The beautiful bubbles of Argyle

Discovering new wines I've never tasted

The Food

Oh my god the Food

Holy damn the Food

Eating at Gabriel Rucker's Le Pigeon Again

PDX's Food Cart District

Chowing down at Pok Pok

I can't wait to get back there....

A Year In Tastes pt 3

2010-12-17T06:59:00.000-08:00

Bari's Veg-Italian Dinner

Back in the Spring Bari put on an all vegetarian wine dinner that was stellar. The pure flavors of fresh produce were presented in wonderfully delicious & exciting ways.

Saumur

This bottle was one of the more unique & interesting that I'd had all year.

Old Bordeaux

There is just something about an old Bordeaux, a good one that is. Wines like this just aren't made anymore. It's like a time machine in a bottle. So cool.

Oh Rose

Memphis weather in the summer is tailor made for glugging down gallons of dry rose. If you still think that pink wine=white zin then I feel sorry for you.

Thyme's Spanish style Shrimp Deviled Eggs

Thyme restaurant really surprised me with their deviled eggs. So bold & flavorful.

A Year In Tastes pt 2

2010-12-13T15:50:00.000-08:00

2010 was a year of awesome wine dinners.

Salmon & Squid

This gorgeous plate was courtesy of Chef Joe Cortright at Spindini. Cured salmon with squid ink gnocchi stuffed with salmon roe. Awesome.

Damn, Piedmont

Luigi Einaudi 1999 Langhe. Whoa. I mean....whoa. Bad ass Italian.

South of Beale's Tuna

South of Beale is Memphis' answer to the question: Gastropub? One of my favorite dishes of theirs is the Sesame crusted tuna on sushi rice balls. Pure asian flavors in a rustic & comfy space in South Main. Thank you SOB!

Terrene in St Louis

Terrene is an excellent restaurant in St Louis, MO. If you are in town go! They took high quality local beef & created a super delicious beef carpaccio.

Napa Cafe is East Memphis' Oasis

I love bellying up to the bar at Napa Cafe & getting some apps & some vino. Their crab cakes are outstanding!

Justin Goes All Latin Up in Here

In case I haven't said it before my friend Justin is an amazing cook. He whipped up a bright, spicy, earthy dish of tostones, black beans & avocado. So tasty.

Minerality

I love bright, nervy white wines with loads of minerality & acidity. Enter Muscadet.

Auction Purchases

I won the right to purchase some bad ass wine at the Brooks Museum's Uncorked event. One of the best & most fun food & wine events in the Mid-South. Brogan Cellars is a small producer of premium pinot noir & syrah in California. I'm not the biggest California fan really but this bottle was stunning.

Sea Marshmallows

Restaurant Iris is one of the best restaurants in town & their scallop dish is one of the reasons why. Just look at it!

A Year In Tastes pt 1

2010-12-11T06:46:00.000-08:00

I'm really over seeing the Top 100 lists & Holiday Gift Guides "What to Buy the Wine Lover In Your Life". Uggh. Gimme a break. I started to think about this past year & it seems as though it almost never happened. It flew by so fast that I hardly remember it! So I thought I'd recap a bit over some of my favorite experiences.

Truffle Bonanza at Justin & Amy's

Justin's exceptional cooking & extreme creative thinking in the kitchen produced outrageous flavors. The '97 Argyle Riesling was ethereal.

Elizabeth Blew My Mind With a Bit of Burgundy

I've never understood Burgundy because I don't have the wallet for it nor do I have access to them for the most part. However, this beauty that my good friend Elizabeth brought to dinner was a game changer for me.

Oh Patty

It's no secret that Oregon has my heart. This bottle from a fiercely talented winemaker is an example of what is happening in Oregon. Gorgeous.

Noodle Bowls

I love all things noodle. Although I would never tell Kelly this I kind of like the fact that he is a vegetarian. It makes me think in a uniquely creative way when crafting meals for us. This beauty was a result of that thinking. Curry coconut chili broth with Udon & fried Tofu. Yum.

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen Swine & Wine Dinner

Do I really need to say anything here? I mean really. Pig & wine? Yes please.

You Pompous Jerk

2010-12-06T07:49:00.000-08:00

Dear Houstonite Who Was In My Store With a Shitty Attitude,

How dare you come into my store, talk trash about our selection, our prices & our layout? As if this wasn't enough you had the balls to trash my city? Really?? You know nothing you Texas idiot. Memphis is a very cool city with so much going on that you have no idea about. You are lucky I held my composure & didn't go off on your ass. Take that stupid blue tooth headset out of your ear & open your mind an inch. Go back to Texas because you don't deserve my city.

Cutting Off Your Nose to Spite Your Face

2010-12-06T07:40:00.001-08:00

I cannot believe that one of my suppliers actually said this to me. One of my sales reps told me that his Department Manager would stop selling us a certain popular product of theirs if we bought a certain new product from another distributor. His reasoning was that when this company began focusing on this genre other distributors said it would ruin the wine/spirits business in Memphis. He said back then other distributors tried doing this very thing & pressuring stores to not purchase their new products. So now that some other distributors are getting into this genre they want to retaliate. Why on earth would a company want to punish their customers (me) & themselves (loss of sales) by refusing to sell me a product because I bought something from another company? That is the very definition of "cutting off your nose to spite your face". It made me so mad that I could barely contain myself. How mind bogglingly ignorant? That would be the same thing as if I refused to sell to a customer who purchased from another store. Stupid. Just stupid. Not to mention bad business.

Argyle Brut 2006

2010-12-03T07:51:00.000-08:00

This month at Joe's Wines & Liquors we are featuring Argyle Brut 2006 as one of our Winos Wine Club selections. “I first visited Argyle in June of 2009 as a participant in Oregon Pinot Camp. OPC brings together 200 wine industry people from around the world each year to be immersed in the wine culture of Oregon. Argyle winemaker & co-owner Rollin Soles led a seminar on Oregon’s unique white varietals & afterwards hosted us for lunch. He opened bottles of sparkling wine, pinot noir & a special surprise. During the seminar he talked about his riesling’s ageability & in particular a 15 year old bottle that he had just recently opened. He went on & on about how well it showed so much so that I raised my hand & asked him if he would open one for us. He laughed & continued on with the seminar. During lunch Argyle’s Sales Director came over to my table & poured me a glass of white wine. He turned the bottle toward me to reveal a 1992 Riesling! This was one of a series of wow moments I had while at Pinot Camp. I returned to Argyle this past July with the memories of the previous years’ experience still fresh in my mind. This time we tasted through their entire lineup of sparkling wines. They were mind-blowing! Truly exceptional as wines first & foremost but some of the best bubblies I’ve had that weren’t Champagne. I kept going back to the 2006 Brut, tasting & re-tasting it, discovering layers upon layers of unique flavors that are rarely if ever displayed by wines produced outside of the Champagne region. I can still see the bottles laid out before me & the flavors of the wines caressing my palate. Argyle will always have a special place in my heart & I hope that you wine club members will feel the same way.

This bubbly is more Champagne-like than any other sparkler could hope to be. Argyle's style of sparkling wine is yeasty, toasty, creamy & sensuously lithe. On the palate are flavors of roasted pear, orange marmalade & vanilla tones with a mouth filling round texture that leaves a gorgeous finish behind. For this lovely wine Rollin Soles sources from some of the best vineyards in Oregon including Knudsen & Lone Star. He allows the vines to speak for themselves & they really come through in this wine. PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT IS GOOD IN THE WORLD DO NOT SERVE THIS IN A FLUTE!!! This beauty needs room to breathe & will benefit from being served in a normal wine glass. The flavors, aromas & textures will unlock themselves in a traditional white wine glass. This wine is truly something special & deserves much respect.

Corsair Artisan

2010-12-03T07:31:00.001-08:00

Click here for my latest column in the Memphis Flyer about Corsair Artisan Spirits.

Why I Choose Memphis

2010-11-29T13:43:00.000-08:00

My good friend Leigh Johnson (aka Dr J) asked me to contribute to her blog on the topic of Why I Chose Memphis. My beloved city has come under fire & the source of this artillery are those damn top 10 bottom 10 lists with such titles as "Ugliest City" "Unhappiest City" etc... What a bunch of fools. If these morons had set one foot in this city before compiling their lists they would have seen the city that I continue to love. So I thought instead of discussing why I chose Memphis I thought I'd blog about why I CHOOSE Memphis & continue to choose it.

Food

Memphis is a delicious city that one outsider remarked "smells like bacon". How can you not love a city that smells like bacon??? We have brilliantly talented chefs in this city that run some absolutely taste bud electrifying restaurants. Majestic Grille's smoked salmon or array of flatbreads, Restaurant Iris' bone marrow or scallops, Tsunami's tuna "nachos" or pot stickers, South of Beale's tuna with sushi rice balls, Cafe 1912's burger...I could go on & on but I only have so much time in a day. I like to eat & so do most of the people I know in this city. We like to eat well, drink well & talk about a varied array of topics.

People

In the decade that I have spent here I have met some of the most interesting & fantastic people I've ever encountered. Some of these people have become very close friends of mine. Lawyers, professors, artists, photographers, teachers, chefs, writers etc. This city will support your passion & so will its people. We love to talk loudly, hug tightly & share our passions. We love to give back to our community....& did I mention we like to eat?

Potential

Memphis can get better. We all just have to help it along. While we do have a world class food scene, art scene, etc we can make it so much better. In the past few years I have seen changes for the better. Project Green Fork was founded a couple of years ago by Margot McNeeley to "contribute to a sustainable Mid-South by helping reduce environmental impacts, with a focus on strengthening homegrown restaurants." The list of PGF certified restaurants has grown exponentially & it is wonderful to support restaurants who want to be more ecologically conscious. Mayor Wharton has created a Brand Manager for the city to showcase the benefits of the city. Playhouse on the Square has opened a gorgeous new facility. These are just a few examples of what has happened recently & therefore what we can continue to work towards. Hopefully City-County consolidation is one of those things we accomplish.

It Got Me

2010-11-22T08:15:00.000-08:00

Every once in awhile a wine will grab ahold of me. As if it's reached out of the glass & taken ahold of my heart. Last night a wine did just that. Spring Valley Vineyards Cabernet Franc "Katherine Corkrum" 2008 Walla Walla Valley almost brought tears to my eyes. The only reason I didn't let the tears flow is because I was in public with a group of people & I didn't want to embarrass myself. First of all I think I smelled this wine for a solid 10 minutes. There was so much expressive, musky, floral aromas coming off it that I couldn't stop myself. The first sip was as if I'd just experienced love at first sight. My heart pounded & the feeling spread throughout my body down into my nether regions & up into my throat. There are few wines that grab me like that & refuse to let go. I'm always thankful when one of them comes along.

8th Anniversary at Bari

2010-11-15T08:46:00.000-08:00

Bari is celebrating their 8th Anniversary! This is one of the gems on the dining scene of Memphis. Unique, delicious, consistent & always fun. Tomorrow night they will be hosting a wine dinner that is sold out but it might behoove some of you to call & get on the waiting list just in case of a cancellation.

From Rebecca Severs at Bari:

Bari is celebrating our 8th Anniversary with a Wine Dinner on Tuesday 16th at 6:30 at Bari. Elizabeth Mall from Delta will be talking about the four wines from Dalla Terra that we have paired with four courses.
The cost of the dinner is $60 per person.

call 901.722.2244

Closer to Ta

2010-11-10T18:18:00.000-08:00

Whenever I cook something from my childhood I always feel closer to my family even though the family is farther away than I'd like. That's especially true when it comes to saltanas (pronounced sahl-tehn-yas). They are kind of like empanadas. Saltanas always make me think of my Grandmother who we loving called Ta. The name stems from her trying to get my sister & I to say abuelita (meaning little grandmother in Spanish) when we were very little. I could only say TaTa & my sister could only say Ta. So the name stuck & it's the only thing I ever called her. If we wanted Ta to make saltanas we would have to request them over a day in advance so she could start preparing the filling & the dough.

After she passed away 13 years ago there was a definite piece missing that's still missing to this day. A number of years ago my mother started making the saltanas & my dad started making the hot sauce to go alongside them. Taking a bite into them would always make me smile & think of Ta. I decided to start making my own about a year or so ago but since Kelly is vegetarian I put my own spin on them. Normally they are stuffed with beef, olives, raisins & potatoes. I substituted red wine & garlic braised lentils for the beef & I must say they are pretty tasty.

Whenever I make them I feel her presence, guiding me as I add the flour or roll out the dough. She is in the kitchen with me as I fold the pastry over the stuffing & seal the edges.

I know she is proud of me when I pull them out of the oven looking gloriously golden brown. There is just nothing in the world that will ever taste as good as her saltanas. Not foie gras, not truffles, not cassoulet, not pork belly. Nothing. Ever. Never.

Lunch at Restaurant August

2010-11-09T19:10:00.000-08:00

I've wanted to go to Restaurant August for years. Since Kelly & I haven't been to New Orleans in years we decided to go all out & eat & drink to our heart's desire. When we arrived at August with Max & Marlinee we were seated at a corner table right by the window. Right off the bat we knew we were in for an experience when they set down this

Fish custard with caviar & truffle. Oh my god...so good

Up next

Handmade gnocchi with truffles, crab & parmiggiano. Heaven. Total heaven.

Marlinee got the Lobster Tempura which was absolutely delicious. That's saying a lot for me because I don't care for lobster.

Up next was a matsutake mushroom salad with duck confit, absolutely outstanding

A lovely, earthy, rustic & rich Vacqueryas was our accompaniment for the entrees which for me was

Veal grillades in a super rich demi glace with lardons. Damn, I needed a nap after all this deliciousness

Back to Siduri

2010-11-07T17:00:00.000-08:00

Haven't had a bottle of Siduri wine in quite sometime. I figured what the hell, it's a nice little date night so why not. So I popped a bottle open. 2005 Rosella's Vineyard Pinot Noir. I love love love pinot. Mostly I gravitate towards Oregon pinot but I've been a fan of Siduri for quite some time. The first I get off the nose are cherry pits, smoke, barrel char & a hint of cinnamon. As I'm inhaling more I'm getting some cherry conserve, cola & vanilla. Upon sipping it's striking how ripe the wine is at first. Quite a bit of sweet strawberry then the acidity spreads across my palate then some fennel bitterness comes on. It's a bit one dimensional at first but I just opened it so that could change. Another sniff brings some lavender & a hint of graphite. The wine is starting to broaden & expand with the cherry & fennel getting bolder & bolder & the finish is getting longer & longer.

Prejudice

2010-11-07T07:27:00.000-08:00

Check out my latest article here.

The Second Day in NOLA

2010-11-02T19:04:00.000-07:00

We were starving. Something about this city just made us all ravenous. I felt like a zombie but instead of brains I wanted po boys, gumbo & anything laced in butter. Max whisked us off to Domilise's for a true authentic po boy. This place was an original for sure. Total hole in the wall with a tiny bar, about 4 tables & an open kitchen (if you can even call it that) where the prepared amazing po boys. Kelly & I split a large fried shrimp po boy dressed with everything. Look at this beauty.

Perfect chewy bread, crispy shrimp that wasn't greasy, crunchy cool toppings. I drizzled hot sauce on mine & devoured it like I hadn't eaten in years. Absolutely delicious.

For dinner we decided on Herbsaint.

I've been reading about Chef Donald Link for years but never had a chance to try his food. Needless to say I was hungry. Thirsty too so I ordered a bottle of Henri Biliot Brut Champagne for the table. The server brought the bottle & some flutes & I asked him if he could please instead bring regular wine glasses instead. I learned from my good friend Sam that good Champagne should be treated with respect & should never be locked up tight in a flute. One sip of Champs from a normal wine glass & you'll never use a flute again. Thanks for that Sam!

Next we went Northwest for a little Oregon pinot gris.

Crisp, bright, nutty, rich but not over the top. This wine is lovely.

My first course was the most memorable. A unique spin on carbonara.

Panko fried soft boiled egg, housemade guanciale, creamy noodles. Heaven. The server actually said to me "be careful when you cut into the egg. It's been known to explode on people." To which I replied "I love it when things explode on me."

He wasn't kidding. Super creamy yolk that just ran right into the saucy noodles. Damn.

I nearly squealed with delight when I saw this bottle on the list. Again, Sam is responsible for creating a new obsession in me with this wine.

It is one of the most sensual, luscious, hauntingly sexy wine I've ever experienced. Truly something special.

Joe's Wines Octoberfest Beer Tasting

2010-10-26T11:35:00.001-07:00

The lineup for Joe's Octoberfest High Gravity Beer Tasting is awesome! Tickets are still available for purchase at the store 1681 Poplar, 901.725.4252. The tasting is from 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. at Playhouse on the Square.

Night one in N.O. part 2

2010-10-25T07:52:00.001-07:00

After a couple bottles & some cheese at Bacchanal we hopped in a cab & headed to Cure for some more snacks & drinks.

This was my first encounter with the cocktail culture of New Orleans. The drinks list wasn't very long but it was precise & had a good mix of different types of liquors. The spirits they chose leaned toward the artisanal which I greatly appreciated. Our cocktails took a little while to come to the table but we didn't mind at all knowing that they were being crafted by hand with meticulousness. The ice in the drinks were large square cubes which didn't melt as fast as smaller cubes & thus didn't dilute my drink as quickly.

I love this type of place because they built the menu for snacking & sharing over well crafted drinks.

Since it was still warm in N.O. we finished the night with a bottle of one of my favorites: Txakolina