Tuesday, October 07, 2008

Beer Glorious Beer!!!!!!


Octoberfest in October, not September like it normally is. On Thursday October 23rd Joe's Wines is hosting an Octoberfest beer tasting at the Cotton Museum (65 Union Avenue) in Downtown Memphis. They will be pouring approximately 25 beers for sampling alongside some hearty Autumn fare. Tickets are $20/person. To purchase a spot, you may stop by the store, 1681 Poplar, or call 901.725.4252. For all you beer fanatics out there, this is not a tasting to miss. All your favorite craft breweries will be represented alongside some new houses that are just now being represented in Memphis. There is limited space available so act fast! Beer, brats...what else could be better??

Friday, October 03, 2008

The Love Affair Continues


As readers of this blog know, I am an absolute sucker for Austrian wines. Totally in love, can't get enough, can't live without, enamored....all that.

I truly feel that Austria is one of the most exciting, if not THE most exciting, wine growing regions in the world today.

Stift Goettweig has been producing wine for, oh about forever. They are producing some of the best gruner veltliner out there. At approximately 14% alcohol the Gottschelle gruner is among the ripest styles on the market. If it was a Wachau it would definitely be a Smaragd designated wine for sure (meaning the ripest). In the glass, this wine is richly golden with a viscous quality as it swirls around. The nose is laden with lemon & lime peel, slate, chalk, limestone, apricot & peach skin. On the palate is a rich texture, vibrant acidity, flavors of white peach, lemon curd & only hints of the residual sugar that the ripe alcohol level implies. The finish just sails on & on & on....& on. This is a wine that lingers for days. It would be perfect with bouillabaisse, seared scallops on a white bean & garlic saute, or shrimp & grits.

At $32.99 (at Joe's Wines in Midtown) it is on the more expensive side but there is absolutely no doubt in my mind that its worth every single penny.

Wednesday, October 01, 2008

Happy Birthday



What better excuse than a birthday to cook up something delicious & pop open wines that I've been DYING to open. In honor of Richie's 28th bday, I braised some free range lamb shanks in wine, stock, celery, onions, garlic, tomatoes, basil & oregano for about 9 hours. I took the lamb out of the braising liquid & reduced it by 2/3 to make a rich & savory sauce. On the side I served cauliflower that I roasted in the oven with cream, wine, garlic & onions. It almost came out like risotto. This meal called for something special, something earthy & spicy. So I popped open a 1995 Tinto Pesquera from Ribera del Duero, Spain & a 1997 Paterno II from Azienda Agricola Il Paradiso in Tuscany.

The Pesquera was laden with a mysterious spice & dense with earthy aromas. It smelled of dark, dried soil & rocky clay. The aroma was thick with clove, cinnamon bark, dried fennel seed, lavender & dried plum. The palate had mellowed over time. I could tell that upon release this baby was a little monster. Its tannins were soft & near disappearing, but when sipped with a bite of lamb, oh ....my. A wonderful pairing. The wines dried fruit & spice played off the gaminess of the lamb in a terribly good way.

I thought it couldn't get any better, but then I tasted the 1997 Paterno II. Oh....my....goodness. I haven't lucky enough to taste enough wines for so called "Classic" vintages. Not as much as I would like anyway. If this wine is any indication then everything you have read about the '97 vintage in Tuscany is without a doubt true. The first sniff of my glass was thick with barnyard, which gave way to fennel spice, violet, rosemary, dried currant, light graphite....it just went on & on! On the palate was a rich, super supple texture that caressed its way across & up & down my mouth. It gave flavors of blackberry, basil, clove, cinnamon, dried thyme, smoke & dried cherry. The finish just kept....on.....going. I was sad when I finished my glass. Because I knew there was no more to be had.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Dinner this Thursday at Tsunami

Joe's Wines, 1681 Poplar, 901.725.4252 is hosting a wine dinner at Tsunami this Thursday. See below:

Thursday September 25th at 6:30 p.m. we are hosting Phillippe Bourgeois of Bourgeois Family Selections at Tsunami Restaurant. Phillippe will be leading us through a tasting of his top-quality wines paired with the magnificent cuisine of Chef Ben Smith. All of the wines that Bourgeois Family Selections imports are at the very least sustainably farmed with most either organic or biodynamic. Phillippe's extensive portfolio is comprised of small family growers (one has only 8 acres) finally bottling their own wines instead of selling grapes off to larger negociants. These wines represent the value and quality of French wines prior to a decade of price increases. Cost to attend this dinner is $65 (including tax & gratuity). There will be special discounts given for orders placed that evening. Our last wine dinner at Tsunami sold out in 2 DAYS so act fast. To purchase a seat, please stop by the store or call and purchase your tickets over the phone (901.725.4252). There are only 22 seats available. Don't miss out on the opportunity to interact with the man who is importing some of the most exciting wines in the market served alongside with Chef Ben Smith's excellent cuisine. The menu is as follows:
Aperitif

Domaine de Ballade Sauvignon Blanc-Colombard 2006 Cotes de Gascogne

Seared sea scallops with saffron beurre blanc and curry zucchini noodles.

Le Drunk Rooster Chardonnay 2007 Vin de Pays

Pepper crusted tuna with warm strawberry vinaigrette/salsa.

In Fin Rose 2007 Cotes du Ventoux

Roasted duck breast with Parmesan croquettes and grilled Asian eggplant.

Domaine de la Berthete Cuvee Sensation 2006 Cotes du Rhone

Szechwan lamb with sweet potato risotto.

Domaine de Chateaumar Cuvee Bastien 2007 Cotes du Rhone

Monday, September 08, 2008

BV tasting of the century

Yesterday I was extremely lucky to attend a vertical tasting of BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve. 21 vintages were poured from 1958 - 2004. Ken Neill, who purchased a seat at the tasting through the Brooks Museum's Uncorked auction, could not attend & asked if I would like to attend in his place. Uh.......YEAH! Even if I did have plans I would have canceled them! The wines were accompanied by an absolutely fabulous 4 course lunch prepared by Chef Wally Joe & Chef Andrew Adams. Thank you, thank you, thank you Ken! Below are my notes from the tasting:

1958: ruby core to a brick-orange rim, light sediment is evident but not as much considering its age. Clarity is muddled & cloudy but typical of age. A nose, of cedar, cinnamon stick, dried cherry forest floor & almond. The palate is very elegant, light & lithe but with a lively acidity for its age, hits on the sides of my tongue with a velvet finish.

1959: light ruby core, orange-rust rim, sediment is evident. Hints at sulfur on the nose with dried plum, obviously dead. Almost pinot noir-esque on the palate with barely a whisper of spice box, hot on the finish, over.

1961: sludgy, rust colored, looks dead. Roasted overcooked fruit on the nose with a funky, sulfur influenced aroma. The palate is tart, tastes of chambourcin. Dead.

1967: garnet core to a brick rim. Nose of currants, cigar box & anise.

1969: bright & clear, clean, rust colored rim, obviously filtered. Dark currant, smoke & slightly cooked fruit on the nose. Subtle, clean palate with bright acid but no mid palate. Hits at the back of the palate.

1974: Cloudy & rust colored. The nose is sulfurous with a pungent licorice/penicillin aroma. The palate is disjointed & seems astringent, hits the hard palate, acid is in line but the alcohol is hot & out of balance.

1978: Garnet color to a pink rim. Dialed down aroma, reserved, black fruits, light earth but not expressive. Soft, hot with no mid palate & unimpressive.

1979: Cloudy core, dark ruby color. Pungently dark core of spice & fruit, somewhat odd & disjointed aroma. Spice box, leather, tea, not impressive, simple & leaves the palate quite quickly.

1982: Cloudy core with a rust rim. , smells off with a pungent, sulfurous nose. Palate expresses cooked fruit with a tangy, light finish.

1985: Ruby garnet, slightly dark at the core. The nose is hot but has notes of black currant & plum. The palate is leathery, black currant, dried raspberry but falls flat on the finish.

1991: Nose of cognac, barrel spice, cedar, cigar box, leather. The palate if round, fleshy, voluptuous, spicy, coats the palate in a luscious fashion.

1992: Clean, ruby color. I found sulfur on the nose with a hint of dried berry. The palate was on the lighter side (lighter than '91) with smoky licorice with a pungent characteristic. Hits the hard palate.

1993: Nose of fill, mustard seed & cranberry. The palate is round, voluptuous, fleshy, leathery & had the most tannins of the night, so far.

1994: Spicy, anise laden nose. A rich, but not heavy, texture with a dark core of supple fruit, tea & cedar.

1995: Heavy with herbes de provence, anise & red currant on the nose. The palate is fleshy & round, big & brawny.

1997: Dark tinted core. A pungently dark, odd, cooked fennel aroma. The palate is big & brawny, the tannins are still too big. Almost overpowering.

1998: Dark ruby core of color. Almost no discernible aroma. Soft fruit. Finally...A MIDPALATE! Hints of spice box. Supple & caressing, just lovely.

1999: Light aromatic expression on the nose, simple & not very interesting. Lusciously powerful & gorgeous on the palate. The finish keeps going on & on with currants & dark blackberry.

2000: Still way too big, but has great potential.

2004: Huge & fruity. Typical Napa cab with big tannins & big black fruit. Seriously needs a steak!

Sunday, September 07, 2008

New video

Check out yours truly in this romantically lit video.

By the way, McCrea is spelled wrong (sorry guys!).

La Bella Italiana!

Check out my new article here.

Tuesday, September 02, 2008

Italian wine tasting at Joe's


Mark your calender's. This Thursday is sure to be the mother of all Italian wine tastings. Joe's Wines will be hosting a tasting of 30-35 wines (with a beer or two) on Thursday September 4th at the Vine, 1819 Madison in BEAUTIFUL midtown Memphis, from 6:30 - 8:30 p.m. Tickets are $35, call Joe's at 901.725.4252 to purchase.

Monday, September 01, 2008

Nothing better than aged bubbles


So I wasn't feeling that well at work on Saturday. All at once I felt nauseated & as if my batteries had run down. After a few hours of keeping myself moving & hydrating I started to come back to life. As much as you all might think, no I was not hungover! I'm not sure what was wrong with me. Richie was concerned not only for my health but also for our plans. We had planned to convene at his condo with our significant others to taste some wine & cook up a tasty meal. Well, after coming back to life, we were back on track. We both were ecstatic to discover that a well aged bottle of Champagne was tucked into the bubbly cooler. Pommery Brut 1992! What a find! We were eager to pop this little beauty open. I downloaded a program called WinePad to my iPhone so I took this as an opportunity to give it a run. The wine poured a rich golden hue with a distinctive clarity, & slow, tiny bubbles. The aroma gave off apricot, nuts, toast, brioche & orange peel with notes of chalk. Richie shouted "it tastes like a triple cream cheese!". In fact it did. It also had flavors of apricot jam, macadamia nuts, artichoke & a lengthy palate that still had so much vibrant acidity.

I love it when we find hidden little gems.

Thursday, August 28, 2008

The Latest From Lachini


Last Thursday, my very good friend Paula was in town so we decided to convene at Restaurant Iris for dinner. For those of you who haven't dined there yet, you are either living under a rock or you can't get a reservation. Trust me, make a reservation. I started with a French 75 cocktail, they do it seasonally so for the time being it is Hendrick's gin, simple syrup, lemon juice & sparkling wine. Quite possibly the best aperitif I have had. It's refreshing, delicious & gets your mouth ready to eat. Aside from the food, decor, service & overall atmosphere of the restaurant, I really love that they offer a wine list that is left of the norm. Anyone can slap a wine list together, but they take pride in offering wines that not only complement the food but are also interesting, unique & good values. We ordered a bottle of the Lachini Vineyards Pinot Noir Family Estate 2006 Willamette Valley, OR. What first struck me was how much of a departure the '06 was from the '05. Where the '05 was masculine & up front, the '06 was elegant, restrained but not subdued. This pinot was a gorgeous translucent ruby color (exactly how a pinot should look!), with aromas of forest floor, red cherry, tea, cola & black raspberry. It was very silky on the palate, so caressing & elegant but still giving great mouthwatering acidity. Go order this next time you dine there or pick up a bottle at Joe's Wines.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Wait for the Video

We just saw the movie "Bottle Shock". Don't waste your time. It was cute but kind of one-dimensional. Rent it later & decide for yourself.

Monday, August 18, 2008

Bounty of the Cellar

Kelly & I went to see Vicky Christina Barcelona late Saturday afternoon with Justin & Amy. It was absolutely FANTASTIC. I would see it again which is strange considering that I don't particularly like Woody Allen's films. But the best part of the evening was dinner at Justin & Amy's. We started with some olives & Manchego that I paired with a Cantina del Taburno Falanghina 2006 Campania, Italy ($18.99 at Joe's). The briny quality on the finish of the wine paired perfectly with the olives & the wine's fruit matched up well with the salty sweet nature of the cheese. At that point, Amy pulled out a surprise...Marimar Torres Chardonnay 1999 Russian River Valley, CA ($?). Wow! It was rich & unctuous with a slice of bittersweet fruit & almond on the finish. This wine had balls! The aroma leaned toward dried apricot & pineapple with a sprinkling of clove & some luscious vanilla. Yes it was cellared well, otherwise it wouldn't have lasted but more importantly it started its life as a truly exceptional wine. If you don't begin with great wine, you can't age it into being great.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

I need a trip to France!!


I just finished reading "Adventures on the Wine Route" by Kermit Lynch. This man alone is responsible for introducing true expressions of French wine to the U.S. market. Luckily we are able to find some of his wines here in Memphis (check out Clos la Coutale Vin de Cahors of Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape). I will admit that this book is more for a wine lover. However, anyone who is remotely interested in wine & loves a good read that is informative & entertaining should pick this up. His prose is so laden with romance that I easily could mentally teleport myself to the regions he discussed. Ugggh I long for the Rhone Valley! It also made me even LESS of a fan of Bordeaux. Lynch really sums up why I loathe that region. They are money hungry, concerned more with pomp & circumstance & all about the facade. I want honesty of expression in my wines & he does a marvelous job of hammering home why that is so important. Maybe one day I'll be able to see that firsthand in the vineyards of Cahors or Cote-Rotie.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Why not white? Part 2.

So one of my all time favorite wines has to be the Stadt Krems Sandgrube Gruner Veltliner 2006 Kremstal, Austria. Tragically, the Sandgrube Vineyard was annihilated by a hail storm late last year. Oh the horror! All those beautiful old vines destroyed! Well, there is nothing to be done now but move on. I grabbed a bottle of Stadt Krems Kremstal Gruner Veltliner 2007 ($18.99 at Joe's) to see if it could carry the torch of the Sandgrube. At first taste, it seemed a little limp, tasty but limp. So I had a glass or so & moved on. The next day I went back to it again & found something totally different. This wine had fleshed out & gained the body it lacked the day before & the balls it didn't have. It was not the flaccid wine from the day before, it was firm, full of life & ready to please! The acid was a clear beam throughout, the citrus, peach & white pepper spiced up the palate. Again, it was a revelation to see that whites can take a day to develop much like reds. I should re-think the way I look at white wine & a little thing called time.

Why not white?

When it comes to red wine I always think about if it needs to breathe & for how long. But when it comes to white wine that's not always the case. I tend not to think about how much or even if it needs to breathe. Why not? I don't know really. I've had 2 recent experiences that have made me re-evaluate the way I look at white wine. A few weeks ago, Justin & Amy brought a 2000 Chappellet Chardonnay from Napa Valley that they scored from the 'rents cellar. Thank god for relatives with collections that have given up drinking!!! To be quite honest, I was skeptical that this bottle was even still alive. An 8 year old California chard?? What??? But I'm always up for a new experience. The wine poured golden in color & had a very reserved almost hushed aroma. It was as if the wine was whispering. The palate was reserved as well, but there was something there...it was just hiding. Then something amazing happened. It blossomed into something I've never experienced before. Only after the wine sat in my glass for awhile & came to room temp did it flesh out into a robust, nutty, round & succulent wine with dried citrus, dried apricot & hints of mango with a superlong finish. I never, ever thought of Napa Valley chardonnay (or any new world chard for that matter) as being something to age. This was something new & exciting. It was a revelation. I know, I know. Chardonnay, a revelation? Well yes. But its because it began with the stuffing & quality to age & then was loved & cared for in a perfect cellar. Wow. Thanks Justin & Amy!

Sunday, August 10, 2008

Simple

I just read an article in the New York Times magazine about a bakery/restaurant in Big Sur. After you read it you'll see that I'm missing the point by not touching on the focus of the article, but I wasn't struck by that. What struck me was the groundswell that was occurring around a bakery that essentially was serving croissants, jelly doughnuts & pizzas. Now granted they are making exceptional versions of these classics, but it got me thinking. That is the type of food that seems to strike me the most....well except for that incredible meal at Cyrus on my 30th & our recent best lunch ever at Jean-Georges (foie gras brulee WHAT THE F***!) What I love to eat the most are simple dishes that are made with excellent ingredients & prepared with love. Pizza at Justin's or Jeff & Kristy's or Kristi & Warner's. A beautiful ribeye steak with sea salt & pepper drizzled with olive oil & grilled to medium-rare. Pasta with sauteed tomatoes, garlic, onions & parmiggiano. For breakfast Kelly & I had simple slices of bread toasted in butter out of a skillet. Granted, it was Sheri McKelvie's cranberry walnut bread (the best EVER go get some at the Memphis Farmer's Market next Saturday) & organic butter but it was simple nonetheless. I guess I'm getting all "Alice Waters" up in here, but its true what she says. If you start with the best organic & preferably local ingredients & prepare them simply it will be an incredibly delicious meal.

Friday, August 08, 2008

Wa Wa Washington

Check out my new article here.

Wednesday, August 06, 2008

What are you waiting for?

I don't have a large cellar by any stretch of the imagination, more like a small gathering. I do, however, have some gems that I'm curious to pop open. I'm thinking these little babies might be ready to go:
  • Tenuta Frigiali 1997 Brunello di Montalcino
  • Paterno II Toscano Rosso 1997
  • Cayuse Syrah Cailloux Vineyard 2001 Walla Walla, WA
  • Tinto Pesquera 1995 Ribera del Duero
  • Pierre Andre Gevrey Chambertin 1998
  • Clos Erasmus 1997 Priorat
I need a good meal & good friends to pop these beautiful little children open.

So, what bottles of yours are calling out to you?

Tuesday, August 05, 2008

Monday is My Sunday

Okay, yes, I'll admit it. When I heard that River Oaks was offering their wine list at 50% off on Monday I got excited. They have a pretty good wine list so I took this opportunity to try out some outstanding wines for a reasonable prices. I say REASONABLE because most restaurant wine list markup in this genre of restaurant are just offensive. Restaurants that don't markup in an unreasonable way: Napa Cafe, Majestic Grille, Restaurant Iris, Cafe 1912, Tsunami, thank you for that guys! But, I also know that restaurants do pay a ridiculous liquor/wine tax (24.25%) to the state. So anyway, yesterday we went out to River Oaks for a little vino & a snack. We started with a Rochioli Pinot Noir 2005 Russian River Valley. It had a beautiful translucent ruby color with aromas of black cherry, tea & hints of earth. The palate was delicate, medium bodied with ripe red cherry & bright acid. Our next bottle was the Carpineto 2001 Brunello di Montalcino. This is why I love Italian wines with a little age. The wine poured dark purple with a black core, aromas of barnyard, funk, forest floor, mushroom & black fruits. The palate was rich, dense, velvety & gave a long, long finish.

Two things are inexcusable when it comes to wine service at this level, or rather the level that River Oaks is portraying themselves to be at. One is improper temperature of the bottles. Both reds were served way too warm & required chillers, which I asked for. If they are going to serve warm red wine they should purchase more chillers or ask the table if they would like their red wine chilled down for them. I shouldn't have to ask, they should know better. Second, is a dirty wine glass. All three of our glasses that we were given with the first bottle were dirty. Not just "the dishwasher left some residue" dirty, I mean, greasy thumbprints & lipstick dirty. Again, a restaurant that wants us to see them of a certain caliber shouldn't allow this to happen. Eww.

Friday, August 01, 2008

In Fine Rose


Okay, I admit it. I'm a little mad about rose. With the disgusting, appalling, oppressive & downright hellish heat & humidity of Memphis, how can I not be? Last night I popped a bottle of In Fine Rose 2007 ($12.99 at Joe's) from the Cotes du Ventoux. It is a lovely little quaffer with nice pink hue, aromas of fresh berries with a little spice & a refreshing, fruity & dry palate. This isn't meant to be contemplated, its meant to be drank. Sometimes I don't want complexity, I just want refreshment & this wine offers it in spades. Drink up!