A Special Cuvee for a Special Restaurant

As I noted in an article in the Memphis Flyer (click here), Restaurant Iris is getting a exclusive cuvee from Robert Turner Winery. It is a testament to the level that Iris is operating at that an ultra boutique, high quality producer would bottle an exclusive blend for them. I had the pleasure of tasting the Robert Turner Winery Restaurant Iris Cuvee Chardonnay 2007 Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley not 2 hours ago & I'm absolutely in love with it. Thats saying quite a lot coming from me considering that chardonnay is one of my least favorite varietals. As readers of my blog, you can attest to the fact that I've almost never written about chard. But this is something different entirely. Immediately the nose gave off notes of clove, apple skin, vanilla, hints of licorice & cinnamon. The palate was rich & layered with ripe pear, a luscious texture, mouthwatering acidity & a finish that stayed on my palate for an incredible duration. What struck is that I kept wanting to return to the glass to smell & taste again. It seemed to give me a new expression of flavors each time. That is, to me, the utmost sign of quality. When a wine holds my attention & brings me back to the glass time & time again thats when I know I've got something special.

Since this is a unique cuvee, Iris won't have much of this wine for a very long time. Go now! Experience this wonderful juice for yourself.

Giving

In my business the holidays slip away very quickly. Who am I kidding it shoots right through everyone's fingers no matter what your profession! Amidst the insanity there are moments of calm enjoyment & pleasure that make me exhale & think to myself that no matter the craziness going on around me I can count on my family & friends to show me what the holidays are all about. Our very good friends Becca & Lee took Kelly & me out for a surprise dinner at The Blue Fish last week. We dined on one of the most delicious (& dangerous to harvest) animals on the planet...whole Alaskan King Crab. They don't call it Deadliest Catch for nothing, but I can see why they go to all the trouble. The friendly & very personable server brought out the whole crab for show before it went back into the kitchen for preparation. This delectable monstrosity took up an entire tray, not a little cocktail tray but the ones used to carry out 8-10 large plates to big tables. It looked almost prehistoric or alien with its pointy hard shell, multiple plump limbs & large claws. I could barely contain myself. The server prepared the crab for us by cutting off its juicy appendages, placing bowls of drawn butter by each of us & flipping the carapace over to reveal the succulent lump meat at the joints. As we all tore into our crustacean each of us remarked on how fun the process was & how it reminded us of being children. I hear that Blue Fish has just a small handful of these coming in for New Year's so jump on them now before they are all gone. It is simply delicious & so much fun. Thank you again Becca & Lee! We love you!

It Doesn't Always Have to Be a Special Occasion......

Sorry about the lack of posts, I've had the crud thats been going around. Luckily I was well enough to go out for dinner for my anniversary. We initially tried to go to Andrew Michael but they were booked up until 9. Oh well, better luck next time. So instead, we stopped by Joe's to pick up a little something special. I love all things Italian, of course, & Kelly loves Barolo....so we grabbed a 2001 Claudio Alario Barolo. 2001 was practically a perfect year in Piemonte, everything just came together beautifully from rain level, fog, all that. This perfect storm produced wines that are almost indescribable. Nebbiolo is without a doubt a grape type that needs some time to develop, soften & come together. With 7 years in the bottle I knew this was beginning to be ready, even though it could easily age for another 13. We popped this baby open & decanted. Immediately what struck me was the aroma of tar & dried rose petal........& that was just from the decanter across the table. Once I took a big whiff of my glass I got notes of truffle, forest floor, dried black currant & a sweet spice note that I couldn't quite place. This is what is exciting about wine. When I can't fully discern what a wine is expressing to me than I know its something special. Every time I sipped, I inhaled deeply & got more layers of aroma. Every time I sipped, the textures & flavors hit my palate in a different way. This wine is something special & made our anniversary that much more special. 7 year old Barolo & 7 years of love. How perfect.

Under the Weather

Uggh. I've got the ick that is going around. I'll be back with more posts after I get over this.

Aged Soave

I've said it before & I'll say it again. I am blessed with some ridiculously great friends (see my previous post about a little goodie from Becca & Lee). Last week my friend Elizabeth texted me to say that she had a book for Kelly & 2 bottles of wine for me. Score! She came over to talk vino & snack on a little dinner while catching up. When she unveiled the bottles I was taken aback....Pieropan Calvarino Soave 2004. 2004! Soave with some bottle age? Never thought to hang on to Soave. The garganega grape has never struck me as one built to go the distance. Granted yes, it is only 4 years of age but some whites fall apart after just a couple of years. Still, I've learned my lesson & I always keep my mind open. I needed to explore this on my own. The next night I popped open the bottle & poured a glass. It was a rich golden tone with a clean translucency. The aromas were of slightly poached apples, hazelnut & vanilla cream. The palate was round & full but not heavy with a crisp acidity on the finish. That finish just lingers & lingers & lingers. Thank you Elizabeth!!!!

My very good friend Becca gave me a plethora of gourmet deliciousness for my birthday. One such yumminess was a bar from Vosges Haut Chocolat. Anyone who hasn't heard of this chocolate company, go out & immediately buy anything you see from them, no matter how weird it sounds. The founder & head chocolatier, Katrina Markoff, starts with the best quality cocoa beans & crafts them into an unctuous & sublime chocolate. Many would be satisfied to stop there. Not Markoff. She adds in spices, herbs & even meat to create a flavor, texture & even aroma that has never been experienced before. Olives? Check. Smoked sea salt? Check. Curry? Check, & even bacon, yes bacon. The above bar, thank you Becca!, is called the Naga Bar. Its filled with curry powder & coconut in a deep milk chocolate & its....oh....so....incredible. What struck me immediately was how aromatic it is. The combination of mildly spicy curry & chocolate gives off a dark, savory sweetness that is exotic yet comforting. The snap of the coconut flakes adds a nutty sweetness & the chocolate itself is slow melting & not too sweet. I think I'm in love.

Ever Had Your Birth Year?

My friend Ken Neill invited Kelly & I over to his house this past holiday. Its a tradition of his to have his children & extended family over for a holiday meal & something special. Each year he opens up a selection of wines from some of his family's birth years. Now this was simply astonishing. I've been lucky enough to drink some old wines, but this was something truly exceptional. Before we got into the birth year blowout, we sipped a few aperitif wines. Ken poured me a glass of 2005 Kia Kaha Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand. Given the age of this wine, I was curious to say the least. Sauv blanc from the new world is not built for aging. However, this tasted fresh, crisp & refreshingly delicious. Before sitting down to dinner I also had a glass of 1999 Prinsi Barbaresco from Piedmont, Italy. Readers of this blog know how obsessed I am with Italian wines so this was a nice treat, a nebbiolo with a little age on it. The color was a dusky rust tint with a dark core, aromas of rose, smoky tar & a ripe, rich texture in the mouth.

The first birth wine was a 1996 Landmark Damaris Reserve Chardonnay Sonoma County in honor of Ken's grandson JD. The color was, just as I expected, dark gold...almost amber tinted. The texture was similar to a light Madeira. It was juicy, with a soft acid that was barely detectable with a nuttiness on the finish.

Next was a 1994 Erath Reserve Pinot Noir Weber Vineyard Willamette Valley in honor of Ken's grandaughter Neill. Ken wasn't expecting too much from this bottle, but I was very excited & kept an open mind. Obviously Ken's cellar is the optimal storage facility so I had faith that the Erath would be drinking good. The wine had a dark core in the glass that gradually gave way to a ruby/brick color that dissipated towards the rim. On the nose was a wild, earthy, dried spice & fruit aroma that wafted up like smoke off a camp fire. It was still very much alive...& delicious. What a way to drink Oregon pinot noir, with a little age on it. The texture was succulent & velvety, like I imagine a silk scarf would feel like if I licked it.

Up next was a 1982 Robert Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley in honor of Evan. The color was still quite dark & the aroma had dark dried currant & leather on it. Unfortunately the palate was done for. It came on with a little fruit & spice but quickly dissipated.

Our next endeavor was a 1977 John Walker & Co Pinot Noir from Central Coast California in honor of . JW & Co is a wine merchant in San Francisco who over the years has had wineries bottle certain cuvees specifically for the store. This particular pinot was from the original Chalone Vineyard! The cork was a bitch to work with, completely disintegrated on me when I attempted opening it. Thank goodness for the decanter & filter. Its color was muddled & odd but the aroma was all earthy, mushroomy, dried clove, tea leaf....like they made this in an attempt to beat the Burgundians at their own game. Which makes sense considering back then, in the '70's, CA winemakers weren't going after the stratospheric brix levels that they are now. They were into subtlety much like their old world counterparts were. I digress. On the palate was a finely aged pinot noir. Silky, wildly textured, dried cherry & cola with a sensuality more than a flavor. Yes we had a bit to drink by now but this was a wine I felt rather than tasted.

Next was a wine I couldn't believe I was about to taste. When Ken showed me the lineup for the night it took every ounce of willpower not to scream & jump up & down. I wasn't seeing things, I was actually about to taste a 1971 Chateau Margaux. Oh......my. This rare & special wine was in honor of Ken's daughter, & my good friend, Molly. She is also pretty special & rare! The wine's color was alive, dark & without a hint of muddiness, with a gradual color transition working its way out from the core from dark ruby to pink. Aromas of sweet grass, hay, clove, dried cherry, currant, earth & leather spun out of the glass. This wine was still very much alive. Tasting it sent shockwaves of texture throughout my mouth from top to bottom & across my palate. It tasted of rocky soil, clove, vanilla with a presence that seemed to say "I may be 37 years old but I have a lot of life left." The finish continued on & on, I lost track really.

The last wine of the night was a 1966 Chateau Beau Site from the Saint Estephe district of Bordeaux. While opening this bottle to decant, Senator Steve Cohen pointed at the bottle & said "Saint Steve!" Hmmm. Our oldest wine of the night was in honor of Sherman, Molly's fiance. After the appropriate toast Marlinee stated that the was actually for her husband Max who himself was born in '66 & whose birthday was the very next day. We hoped that was going to be the only declaration she made that evening. I say that with the utmost love, Mar. Back to the vino. Its 42 years of age barely registered in the color. While there was a brick tint to it, the hue wasn't faded or thin looking. The one thing that shone through the most on the palate was the cocoa bean & coffee. It was almost immediate, very vibrant. The weight was surprisingly full for its age, it spread across my palate with a luscious texture & flavors of leather & dried cranberry.

Wow. What a night. Thank you so much Ken! I can't wait until next year!

The End or ?

One of the most inspirational people in the culinary Illuminati of Memphis is closing up shop. My friend Alyce Mantia is shuttering her eponymous gourmet deli & restaurant, Mantia's. Its almost TOO sad to report. Over the 8 years I've been in Memphis, Mantia's was the place that would inspire me to prepare some of the finest meals I've ever experienced. She became my friend, sometime employer, & over all culinary guru. Every time I would even think about heading over to Mantia's I would become giddy with excitement. What better way to pass the time than to purchase exotic cheeses, oils & spice blends? This shop wasn't just a retail store it was a destination. I could always count on Alyce & Joanna to be there with smiling faces & a recipe idea or story. There is nowhere in town to buy Jamon Serrano, which I think is VASTLY superior to Prosciutto di Parma. Nowhere. She kept a leg of this jamon to slice just like it should be done in Spain. I'm going to miss this place. I'm going to miss seeing the duck fat in the freezer next to the Buerre d'Isigny. I'm going to miss my favorite tuna salad in town. I'm going to miss the giant wheels of Humboldt Fog. I'm going to miss the way Alyce would pronounce French perfectly. Her Cassoulet was the most amazing dish I have ever tasted. Whatever Alyce does next I'm sure will be excellent. I love you Alyce!!

Spelunking We Will Go!

Christmas has come early. This past Monday we tasted through a slew of reduced priced wines at one of our wholesalers. There were a couple dogs yes, but what I found were some truly exceptional gems. Sadly, not every wine is appreciated when it is brought to market. Some of them are misunderstood, unappreciated or disregarded for reason or another. Many wines just aren't ready to be drunk upon release. Not every buyer in town understands these things. Fortunately, we get to reap the benefit of these poor bypassed wonders (such as the Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir from the previous post!). One such standout was the Gregory Graham Syrah 2000 Napa Valley. 2000 was not necessarily considered the best vintage in Napa, but if there is one thing I've learned its to not always listen to the critics. This dark, blue velvet toned wine was rich & unctuous but a little closed off at first taste. I went back to it after tasting through another 20-some wines & this second time it seemed almost awkwardly pungent. But I just knew something was there, I could feel that it was going to blossom.....& did it ever. After work the next day I poured myself a glass from the open bottle & took a big whiff. The nose had developed into a thick perfume of smoke, bacon fat, drying blueberry, beef jerky, fennel & clove. The palate was fleshy, rich & dark with a round unctuous texture that still displayed some bright acid. Bright enough for the rich dish it would need such as lamb with black olives, peking duck or braised pork tagine. There are next to no bottles left so the minuscule amount that we get in at Joe's will surely go quickly. I know I'm going to grab a couple for my cellar!

The Small Guys Make Good Juice

Well its not as if this is a news flash or anything, but smaller producers just seem to make wine that is so much more expressive, beautiful & emotional than the big guys. Today I had a 375 ml bottle of Papapietro Perry Elsbree Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 Russian River Valley. Not only was it a rich, luscious, velvety, silky, expressive pinot but it also had presence. That certain something that instantly registered as...well, special! The range of food pairings immediately ran through my mind. Duck with cherries, jamon serrano with manchego & olives, lamb shoulder in a red wine glaze, figs & goat cheese. Mmmmmmmm.

The Tube

Is anyone watching the new Top Chef? What do you think of the first episode?

Something Different

We were lucky enough to score some Novy Family Winery Blanc de Noir 2007 Willamette Valley $26.99. It may sound like it but it is NOT a sparkling wine. I know, I know wines designated a Blanc de Noir are typically sparkling but this (as my post title states) is something.....different. 2007 wasn't necessarily the best vintage for Oregon. Therefore, Siduri/Novy wanted to make the proverbial lemonade from lemons. Winemaker Ryan Zepaltas crushed their pinot noir grapes & immediately ran them off their skins so as not to pick up any color. Hence the Blanc (white) de Noir (from black grapes). The wine does have a slight flesh tone to its hue, but this beauty is all about the aroma & texture. The nose gives off aromas of star fruit, passion fruit, clove, white raspberry & a hint of soil. On the palate is a ripe viscous texture that is not overwhelmingly heavy (think of a balanced viognier or grenache blanc something Northern Rhone) or weighted. Its balanced with a bright acidity & a somewhat lanolin-esque finish. My immediate thoughts when tasting this was that it would be perfect paired with all the upcoming holiday dishes. Turkey, dressing, ham, even lamb!
Find this at Joe's, I'm not sure if anyone else got any. Yours truly had them send a sample bottle in since this market wasn't slated to receive any of this wine.

Going Veg

My friend The Chubby Vegetarian has prepared countless delectable, meat-free meals in his kitchen. One of the many things I love about him is his love of butter. Sorry vegans but you are only depriving yourself of soul-enriching goodness by avoiding butter so just get over it. His tomato-leek confit is simply sublime. He has made his own vegetarian sausage, roasted hen of the woods (tasted like a fresh seared halibut...so GOOD!) stuffed morel mushrooms. I could go on but I'm suddenly STARVING. He has inspired me to explore more vegetarian focused cookery. Yesterday I prepared a baked pasta to serve for lunch or dinner, busy week. I mixed organic whole wheat shells with sauteed onions, garlic, wild mushrooms, Field Roast's Italian Sausage, Oregon brandy, cream & some cheddar. There's some veggie love for ya!

Bubbles

Given that Obama won the election, I think its time to celebrate early rather than wait for New Year's. When it comes to celebrations I reach for Champagne. I know, its kind of cliche but I use any excuse to pop the bubbly. My current favorite is Chartogne-Taillet NV Brut, $53.99 at Joe's. This is a family owned Champagne house, a real farmer fizz. I can truly taste the love & affection that goes into this bottle. Unlike the industrial river of never ending, one-dimensional bubbly (Clicquot anyone?), Chartogne Taillet is complex & expressive. On the nose are aromas of toast, orange marmalade, mushroom & preserved lemon. The palate is creamy, bright & citrusy, with hints of earthiness, a luscious texture & a long, lingering finish. Maybe President Obama will pop a bottle on his first day in the White House!

Oh...so...good

No secret. I love Italian wine. Love it. Love it. Delicious juice. This little beauty is an amazing score. Villa La Selva Felciaia 1998. With 10 years in the bottle this wine is fleshed out with a luscious texture, aromas of fennel blossom, dried cranberry, earth & a bit of barnyard. On the palate are tannins that are still very pronounced with a rich texture, dried cranberries, dried raspberries & a lengthy finish. I'm drinking it by itself but I think it would blossom with a braised beef dish, grilled lamb or even a plate of salami & olives. Sorry about the picture, it just wasn't turning out the way I wanted it to look. Find it at Joe's.

Sorry

Sorry I haven't posted in awhile. I sliced open my hand & its been uncomfortable to type. I promise to have some posts up soon.

Abyssinia, finally!

I have driven by the Ethiopian restaurant Abyssinia for the entire 8 years that I have lived here in Memphis. I've always been curious about it but I've never made it in. Becca & Lee called & asked if they could take Kelly & I there for a belated birthday dinner. Becca tempted even further by promising to bring a bottle of Chateau Musar 1998 Bekaa Valley, Lebanon. This is one of my absolute favorite wines & from what Becca said it would pair well with the cuisine. I decided to bring along a bottle of Weingut Knoll Ried Krietles Smaragd Gruner Veltliner 2005 Wachau, Austria. When we walked in the door of the restaurant, the first that hit me was the overwhelming aroma of toasting spices. Mmmmmm. The gruner was deliciously bright with fresh acidity & a nutty flavor profile from the bit of age on it. I ordered the lamb which was stir fried with Ethiopian spices, garlic & big chunks of onion. The smoky spice & texture of the lamb was perfect with the Musar's earthy gamy depth of darkness & gripping tannins. Ummmm. I always find it interesting that when I mention Musar is from Lebanon most people just throw back a big "?". But if you think about it, that part of the world has been making wine since the beginning of time.

Thanks Becca & Lee!!!!

Joe's Beer Tasting Sold Out

Yes its true dear readers. Joe's Wines Octoberfest Big Beer Tasting on Thursday October 23rd is SOLD OUT. Too bad so sad but seriously.....when are you going to learn to buy your tickets early????? All the good events always sell out so learn from this & buy early.

A Total Lack of Journalistic Integrity

I just received this email from one of my most favorite restaurants. It pains me to see one of our esteemed (I'm being sarcastic here in case you can't tell) local journalists attack locally owned, small family restaurant that is passionate about what they do & strive to give their customers an experience they can't get elsewhere. Read this & then email that hack who calls himself a reporter Here's his email address: blunn@wmctv.com:

Hello Everyone!

You may have heard that recently Napa Cafe received a 69 on the health inspection and I want you to know what a bogus score it is. We have always scored in the high 80's or low 90's. The critical violations were: front door was open (while the servers were setting up the outdoor tables), the butter was at room temperature (softened for the table bread), and our dishwasher came in from outside and did not go straight to the sink to wash his hands-( he stopped to pick up the empty lettuce box that the cook had just emptied). These 3 deductions resulted in 15 points! The other points deducted ranged from no label on the pecans( in clear ziplock bags )to brooms stored on the floor and not hanging. The inspection was conducted 15 days ago and they reinspected only to bring it to an 85 which is the most they could possibly give me with the system they have in place. I want to assure you that we take health regulations very seriously not because of a score but because I want a safe and healthy environment for all of my employees and all of my customers.

The inspection process has always been unsettling. The inconsistencies are alarming to put it mildly. The rules change without notice and each inspector has their own interpretation of these rules. I have to admit that it wasn't until this recent score did I decide to get proactive.

I received an e-mail from the Memphis Restaurant Association yesterday regarding the meeting they are having with them today. The inconsistency is such a huge problem regardless if a restaurant fails or not.

And to add fuel to the fire Bill Lunn from Channel 5 could not wait to report that an East Memphis upscale restaurant was going to be on his segment. He did not contact me for a statement.

I appreciate your business very much and if you have any questions please contact me.

Sincerely,

Glenda

901-683-0441

*The e-mail sent by the Memphis Restaurant Association.*

Dear MRA Restaurant Member, Wight and I will be meeting with the Health Department this Friday, October 10th to discuss inspection procedures and regulations. We would like to have feedback from you about your recent experience with your Health Inspector to take into our meeting. All input is welcome (positive and/or negative). What was your overall impression of your most recent inspection? How does it compare with past inspections? Do you have specific suggestions as to how future interactions with Health Inspectors can be improved upon? Rest assured that your anonymity will be protected. Please e-mail me at eli.cloud@gmail.com with your feedback. Warmest regards, Eli Cloud Memphis Restaurant Association Member Relations Director 871-3713 eli.cloud@gmail.com

The Great Lionello Marchesi

I'm not gonna lie, what's the point? You read this so you know. I am absolutely infatuated with Italian wines. This week I met & tasted with one of my idols, Lionello Marchesi. His love of the sangiovese grape is evident in his sublimely beautiful wines. I truly admire not only the exquisite quality of his wines but also his focus on showcasing this beautiful grape at all price points. As much as I hate to admit, we are in an economic crisis. Its nice to have options in the wine world across all price points. Lionello started me with his basic sangiovese 2006 (approximately $15 retail). The color was typical of the grape, dark ruby with an orange-red tint at the rim. It had the traditional nose & palate of Italian spice & cranberry. Next up was the Chianti Superiore 2006 (approximately $18.99) a classic example of the great Chianti district. It was on the darker side for a Chianti, but expressed the spicy clove, fennel, red berry nose I've come to expect from that region. The palate had significant weight & grip with a lusciously dark flavor & a bright beautiful acid. The next to be poured was a 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva (approximately $30.99). It was a dark, velvety beauty with supple tannins, licorice & black fruit flavors. Next was the 2005 Rosso di Montalcino ($?). As you fellow cork dorks know this is the baby Brunello. The Sangiovese Grosso grape used for Brunello is aged for less time & then released as Rosso di Montalcino. Its a perfect wine for an introduction into the beauty that is the Brunello. The Rosso has excellent concentration, a dark viscous texture with a smoky clove, fennel & dark licorice aroma & flavor. The tannins were pronounced due to its youth but they were integrated enough to be balanced.

I could hardly wait to get to my baby, the Brunello di Montalcino. I was a bit apprehensive about it given that it was a 2003 & that vintage was excessively hot all over Europe. That heat led to a lot of wines expressing roasted or cooked fruit nuances which to me overpower a typically elegant & balanced wine. This was not the case with this wine. Marchesi explained that his Brunello vineyards were very high up & their altitude saved them from being subjected to the monstrous heat of '03. Its color was dark purple with a red/rust tint to the rim. On the nose were aromas of fennel, clove, smoke, blackberry & a violet note. The palate was rich, supple bodied, ripe with layers & layers of sensually textured tannins & dark fruit. This Brunello didn't disappoint at all, it had a finish that just wouldn't let go. It kept going & going & going & left a lasting impression of dark spice & black fruit & a hint of soil as well.

Go out & support the economy! Buy a Brunello!