Sunday Dinner

Last night Kelly & I had a lovely dinner at Kristi & Warner's house. To start the evening we had these interesting little things to the right which are wild hibiscus flowers in hibiscus syrup. We dropped a flower & a little syrup into the bottom of champagne flutes & filled them up with Louis Perdrier Rose Brut NV sparkling wine from France. Both the flowers & the bubbly were a gift from our friends Justin & Amy (thanks Justin & Amy!) The syrup just slightly sweetened the bubbly enough to be refreshing & fruity. The flowers themselves had the consistency of dried fruit or fruit roll ups. They are a bit addictive once you've popped one in your mouth. Next we had a bottle of Smith Madrone Riesling 2005 Spring Mountain, Napa Valley. I've been curious how this wine has developed over the years. When I first had it the wine was linear & bright with lots of acidity & peach, meyer lemon flavors. This bottle could have been aged for another few years! It was still very bright with notes of slate & dried lemon & lots of vibrant acidity. We enjoyed a salad that the lovely Mez brought over of spinach, strawberries, almonds, red onion, dried cranberries & blueberries, Laura Chenel Herb Chevre & an organic raspberry vinaigrette. It was perfectly fresh, light & delicious. Kristi's main course consisted of tamarind marinated

shrimp with brown jasmine rice, fresh peppers, celery, onions & garlic in a coconut ginger broth. The dish had a mild heat with a creamy texture & super aromatic spice....Yummmmmm! Our next bottle of wine was Torre Muga 1998 Rioja, yet another bottle I've been curious about. Obviously I've been cellaring this one almost too well because of its youthful weight & texture. It was still bold & dark & had only slightly softened from the first time I had it years ago. It was at first very new world in style with dark ripe fruit on the nose & palate that spread out & became earthy & spicy. What a hell of a finish on this thing, Wow! This wine could have lasted another 3-5 years at least even though it was oh so delicious now.
For dessert Kristi grilled fresh peaches with rosemary & salt & topped them with vanilla cream & balsamic vinegar. The balsamic was a perfect touch adding a tangy sweetness to the luscious texture of the fruit & cream. That was fun!

Good good pinot

I love a good pinot noir. I haven't been drinking much of it lately due to both price escalation & a kind of boredom of the varietal. It seems we are inundated with pinot after pinot, a veritable sea of bland juice. But there are still many great wines made from this so-called "heartbreak" grape. Case in point, Siduri Sonoma Coast 2006. At $30 a bottle this isn't necessarily an inexpensive wine but then again, its all relative. Not to mention that you get what you pay for. Good wine is like good food, sometimes it costs a bit but almost always its worth it.

The first thing I noticed about this wine is its elegantly translucent color. Some people might call it pale, especially compared to the hedonistic ripe fruit bombs of Santa Lucia Highlands or Sta Rita Hills. There is a smoky sultry quality on the nose, but still dialed back enough that it isn't overwhelming. The nose gives aromas of dark cherry, smoke, cardamom & hints of tea & earth. When the first sip of a wine makes me close my eyes & blocks out my surroundings, wow! That speaks volumes. The palate shows a sensually silky texture, a round smoothness, acidity that is just bright enough to elevate the strawberry, black cherry & cola flavors. This is a truly exceptional wine that is drinking surprisingly well for its youth. Drink up!

Rose Rose Rose!

Check out my new vlog. Lee Gordon produced this using his incredible talents. Thanks Lee!

The end of a vineyard

I'm sipping on one of the most stunning white wines ever produced. I've had the Stadt Krems Sandgrube Gruner Veltliner 2006 Kremstal, Austria many times, but it just never ceases to truly amaze me. This pure, concentrated, ripe white has layers of white pepper spice, peach, apricot, minerality & acidity. It is simply stunning. Which makes it all the more tragic that the Sandgrube vineyard in Kremstal was obliterated by hail in late 2007. The vineyard has been replanted but it won't be producing for at least another 5 years. But how can these newly planted vines ever reproduce the magic that the old vines so liberally displayed? Each sip of this sublime wine almost makes me cry thinking of how I'm drinking history & helping this beautiful thing along to extinction. But its too delicious to stop.

New Tasting Menu

Restaurant Iris has changed their tasting menu & it is absolutely delicious! Chef Kelly English continues to prove that he is one of the most talented chefs in Memphis. To be honest, I just returned from Manhattan & I think he is just as talented as anyone working up their now. He has a way with ingredients that showcases & emphasizes their simple purity while also putting his stamp on them... in an elegantly delicious way. The new tasting or "degustation" menu has a bright tomato "caprese"-style salad with fresh local tomatoes marinated in sherry vinegar, house made mozzarella & balsamic syrup. Jeffrey Frisby has paired this course with a sauvignon blanc from the Stellenbosch district of South Africa. The next course is a foie gras terrine with watermelon pickles. Then they are offering a scallop "latte" in a creamy, savory truffle broth. The main course is a lamb loin with a vin cotto glaze, grilled peaches with feta & a parsley pursulade (sp?)

Restaurant Iris is a welcome addition to the Memphis dining scene that is sure to continue to wow us in a comfortable & elegant fashion.

New Blog

Check out my friend Justin's blog here.

Graham Beck

While Kelly & I were in NYC recently we stopped by the wine bar Xai Xai in Midtown Manhattan. I was intrigued by it after seeing it profiled on Wine Spectator in a video with James Molesworth. When we stopped by, it was a Wednesday around 5 p.m. & there was only one other couple there. I ordered a glass of the Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2006 for Kelly & a glass of the Graham Beck Brut for myself. The bubbly was classically styled, with toasty notes, a creamy texture, beautiful beading & a round texture. It was a perfect example of South African winemaking. That region is producing wines that straddle the gap between the Old World & New. I don't believe this winery is available in Memphis, but hopefully it will be very soon.

Meat & Vegetables

This weekend I had two excellent meals that really stood out not only for their excellent quality but also for their polar opposition in the same genre. The first was at our friends Justin & Amy's house. Justin is an amaaaaazing cook who just so happens to be a vegetarian. As we walked in the door, Amy poured us a cherry-basil mojito (she is a master mixologist!) that was perfectly minty, sweet & refreshing with just an undertone of basil. Justin had prepared a mexican spread like no other: grilled corn with vegan mayonnaise, parmiggiano, chile & lime; quesadillas with cheese & vegan chorizo; black bean tamales & a spread of different salsas. The meal was outstandingly delicious, full of a variety of different bright flavors & just that right amount of heat which paired well with a 2006 Chateau Marouine Cotes de Provence rose & 2006 River Aerie Malbec, Columbia Valley. Justin just amazes me every time he prepares a meal for us. I am a without a doubt a meat lover, even though I don't eat it often, but I never...ever leave his dining room feeling unsatisfied in anyway. Hell, after this meal I was so stuffed I couldn't finish dessert!

The second meal was also Mexican in style & theme. Our friend Kristy's birthday was Saturday, in honor of the special day she & her husband Jeff had a mexican fiesta. Nice sombrero Jeff! First of all, the margaritas were fabulous. There is just nothing like a fresh margarita, it was obvious that they had gone through the trouble of juicing fresh limes instead of using a mix. Outstanding!! The dish that stood out to me the most was the goat. I have never had goat before so I was extremely curious. Kristy gets the meat from a farm in Iowa (I'm pretty sure she said Iowa) that humanely raises its livestock & uses no chemicals, hormones, etc. Jeff prepared the goat in a dark sauce laced with chilis, cumin & I'm not sure what else. The goat was succulent & tender & just melted on my tongue. The sauce had a smoky heat as opposed to a spicy heat that savory-sweet at the same time. I must say that I would definitely try goat again.......as long as Jeff is preparing it! HAPPY BIRTHDAY KRISTY!!!!!

Wine Tasting

This just in:

Joe's Wines next big tasting will be held at the Vine, 1819 Madison on Thursday June 26th, 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Cost to attend is $35 per person. They will be pouring a selection of wines from around the world, with each station focusing on a particular region (Austria, Washington, California, etc....) If you would like to purchase tickets, please stop in the store, 1681 Poplar or call 901.725.4252. With gas prices so high, why not skip your vacation & come to a wine tasting instead?

Post Vacation Depression

We just returned from NYC on Saturday & reality has set in. We are already planning our return, I'm planning my return to Morrell (to stock up on more incredible bottles & to converse with the lovely Harriet) & Kelly is planning our move to the city. Seriously, he wants to live there. I had hoped to do a bit more shopping for some boots & jeans but it just didn't work out that way. Instead, I spent my shopping budget entirely on wine but hey that was my plan anyway! We ended shopping only a little bit....but eating & drinking a LOT! We found a few lovely little wine bars:

• Morrell Wine Bar: This cozy but beautiful locale was next door to one of the best wine shops I've ever been to. It had an extensive wine list & a menu of small plates perfect for sharing. We had a few glasses of rose (Kelly's was from Provence, mine was from Bandol) & a plate of charcuterie. The bar was curvy & sleek with a wall of wine to the left of the entrance. Very cool but very comfortable place.
  
• Flute: This former speakeasy is below the street in a dark space with multiple pockets of plush seats & couches. The small but excellent selection of champagnes, sparkling wines & cocktails are perfect for a early evening. We found this place at about 5:05 on a Friday after walking around & sweating our asses off. Try the Marquis de Sade cocktail. I won't spoil it for you.
  
• The Bubble Lounge: This Tribeca spot boasts an unbelievable amount of Champagnes & sparkling wines. Kelly & I found this place the last time we came to NYC & couldn't wait to return. This lounge is very cozy with exposed brick & dark red chairs & sofas. I love, love, LOVE Champagne so I was just a sucker for this place.
  

Viva Italia!

Check out my new article here.

Man-hattan

Kelly & I are in NYC right now. Just got here yesterday & it is hot as HELL. I should be used to this having lived in Memphis for 8 years, but it still doesn't help. Our driver was taking us over the Brooklyn Bridge & just happened to mention that it was 102 degrees! We didn't let that deter us from doing some exploring on foot. We happened upon Morrell Wine shop next to Rockefeller Center. We must have looked like vagrants because one of the wine stewards followed us & stood near us to prevent shoplifting! Hey, I can't blame her, I probably was soaked with sweat & stinky so....But after she engaged me in conversation & learned my tastes we were having a good time & I was spending too much money on really good wine. Kelly made a very interesting observation that "New York has places like this Morrell in one of their most heavily touristy areas. Memphis has rib & burger joints & shops that sell silly bobble heads or other crap. That shows you the different plane that New York is operating on."

For dinner last night we made reservations at Perilla in the West Village. We are huge Top Chef fans so naturally we wanted to eat at Harold Dieterle's (the 1st Top Chef winner) restaurant. The decor & layout were very beautiful. However, on this boiling day it seemed as though they didn't have the air conditioning on. That wasn't pleasant, but we got over it. The second strike was the poorly made sidecar cocktail. Kelly was not happy about it but he drank it. It needed more lemon & more sugar on the rim to balance it out. However, as soon as we sat down at our table we were very excited about the menu in front of us. Kelly decided on the spicy duck meatballs for a starter & I chose the halibut cheeks. Both were outstandingly delicious. The meatballs came with a raw quail egg on top that melted into the broth. Fantastic. My cheeks were seared crisp on the exterior with a juicy interior. For our entrees I had the roasted duckling breast & Kelly had the ricotta ravioli with fiddlehead ferns & truffle butter. Oh my goodness...We chose very wisely. Both dishes were perfectly cooked with delicious layers of flavor. I would recommend this restaurant to anyone visiting Manhattan. Just call ahead & ask if the a/c is working.....& don't order a sidecar.

Farmer's Market Dinner at Majestic Grille

I just received this release from the Majestic Grille. They are planning what is sure to be one of the best wine dinners this summer. Local food & good wine in an incredible setting. What more could you ask for?

MEMPHIS FARMERS MARKET WINE DINNER

Wednesday June 11 – 6:30pm

Reservations Required.

Hors D'Oeuvres

Pizettas - Carmelized spring onions, bonnie blue goat cheese, arugula

Radish "Sandwiches" - Sea salt and chive mayo

Bon Bon Shiraz Rose, South Australia 2007

First Course

Roasted Jumbo Scallop - Baby beets, oranges, mixed greens

Marquis Phillips Holly's Blend, Southeast Australia 2007

Second Course

Veal Tenderloin - Stuffed with chard, zucchini and fresh herbs with natural juices, sugar glazed carrots and roasted fingerling potatoes

Chris Ringland's Green Lion Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley CA 2005

Dessert

English Strawberry Trifle - Fresh strawberries layered with sponge cake, English custard and canilla cream

Paringa Individual Vineyards Sparkling Shiraz, South Australia 2004

$55 per person plus tax & 20% gratuity. Slow Foods members $50.

Please call 901-522-8555 to make reservations. Seating is limited.

All Carova, All The Time!

Finally the Carova Milk Bar has reconvened. It has been far too long! I haven't blind tasted in quite some time so I suggested we do just that. Everyone brought a brown bag bottle that was not to exceed $25. After the reveal I could tell most of us had cheated on the price point, but what the hell.

Blind tasting is always so humbling. I'm a bit rusty but that just means I need to do this more often.

My descriptors were pretty spot on but I led myself astray on the varietals. Oh well.


Here's the lineup:

Sebastiani Barbera 2004
Tablas Creek Vermentino 2003
Bell Vineyards Merlot 2002
Pepper Bridge Merlot 2003
Isenhower Horse Heaven Hills Syrah 2004

For an extra added bonus, Michael Barar brought a 1993 6 Puttonyos Tokaji......mmmmmmmmm

I decided to share a Turley Cellars Zinfandel Rattlesnake Ridge Howell Mountain 2005 with the gang. Oh my god. It is no wonder that Turley is so highly sought after. They are truly exceptional wines. It was smoky barbecued pork in a glass......mmmmmm.

Reconnect

I recently received an email out of the blue from my old friend Frank. We used to hang out together in high school & college but have lost touch since. It was incredible to reconnect with a friend I didn't realize I missed until we reconnected. He is doing well, traveling a lot for work, I'm doing well, pursuing my passion. Its amazing how things change. We never thought we would end up doing what we are doing. Which goes to show that you can't ever predict the future. It makes me think of the wines I've drunk that I haven't thought about in years. Perrier Jouet Gran Blason Rose at the Soho Grand in New York with Kelly a few years ago. Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo 2005 at Avec in Chicago last year. 1986 Dom Perignon at la casa de Richie & Meagan for her 21st birthday last year....& most recently Stadt Krems Sandgrube Gruner Veltliner 2006. The Sandgrube vineyard was completely destroyed by hail last year & had to be replanted. Thinking of those amazing old vines just brings me to tears. What a loss. From the destruction a new vineyard will rise to continue the legacy, but nothing can replicate the beauty of those old vines. Much like old friendships can never be the same, yet they become something new.

Salud!

Rose Time!

I'm not much of a warm weather person. At this time of year the only things to look forward to are backyard barbecues & rose wine. Pink wine says "Summer" to me & I'm so glad to see that its catching on in Memphis. This city's oppressive heat & humidity are the perfect foils for a good rose. Most of them aren't that expensive at all which makes it even more enjoyable. Recently, I enjoyed a few roses that were quite tasty.

Weininger Rose de Pinot 2007 Vienna, Austria $18.99 was very pale in color, almost a fleshtone. The aromas gave light floral notes, with hints of strawberry. On the palate were flavors of cherry & citrus with mineral notes & a fresh acidity.

Masseri Pisari Negroamaro Rosato 2007 Italy $17.99. It displayed a deep, dark color for a rose with fuller aromas of berry & hints of spice on the nose. The palate was round but not too heavy to still be refreshing. Flavors of juicy cranberry, strawberry & melon came through & finished dry & bright.

Elk Cove Pinot Noir Rose 2007 Willamette Valley, Oregon $16.99. This wine had a nice salmon color to it & aromas of cherry, hints of clove & raspberry. The palate had a sweetness in the mid-palate that finished dry with bright, mouthwatering acidity.

It's time to drink pink!!!

Sunday Dinner

Kelly & I had a delicious dinner with our good friend Jennifer this past Sunday at Bari. Chef Jason Severs got his hands on some fresh zucchini flowers, which I just HAD to have. Chef Severs batter dipped & fried the delicate blossoms to a crispy texture. The delicate sweetness of the blossom was still very bright & wasn't hidden by the batter. Delicious. We also shared the eggplant & pecorino fritters, which have been dubbed "crack balls" due to their overwhelming addictiveness. The fritters are crisp outside & tender on the inside with a smoky sweetness that is pierced by the savory-saltiness of the pecorino. Next up was the Branzino, a whole bass stuffed fennel & orange. The bass was roasted to perfection with a crispy skin, tender & juicy flesh that was perfumed with orange & sweet, licoricey fennel. I hungrily eviscerated the fish & ate everything but the eyes! I always have had a delightful meal at Bari & can't wait for my next meal. Tonight, Bari is hosting a wine & cheese tasting with Elizabeth Mall of Delta Wholesale. Cost to attend is $30/person.

Bari Ristorante e Enoteca

What a book!

Kelly always gets on to me about not reading anymore. I used to devour books (I was a Creative Writing major in college after all, SIU!) However, in the past few years I haven't read much & what I have read has been wine related. Jay McInerney's Bacchus & Me & Hedonist in the Cellar along with some Jancis Robinson books & The Accidental Connoisseur by Lawrence Osborne. My favorite has been My Life In France by Julia Child. It enraptured me from the start & I think I read it in about 3 days! Yesterday I went to the bookstore & picked up Untrodden Grapes by Ralph Steadman & Alice Waters & Chez Panisse by Thomas McNamee (born & raised in Memphis!) This book is entrancing. It puts me right in the middle of it all, peering into the kitchen, knee deep in the chaos of what Chez Panisse was. But most of all, it makes me want to cook. It makes me want to drive to Kentucky to forage for fresh Morels, bring them back & cook them up & pop open a good bottle of pinot noir. That is the power of book, when it makes you want to feed someone you love.

Washington State, the next frontier

Over the past few years I've been lucky enough to experience some truly great Washington State wines. I've delighted in wines from K Vintners, Cayuse, Betz & Boudreux. Recently, Joe's Wines, 1681 Poplar, has brought in a number of outstanding labels from Washington; L'Ecole no. 41, River Aerie, Bunnell Family, Northstar, Andrew Will (including the 94 pt Wine Spectator Champoux Vineyard 2005), Matthews & Spring Valley.

Washington is producing some of the best syrahs & THE best merlots in the U.S. if not the world. River Aerie is even growing malbec & barbera, both are unique & outstanding in their own ways.

I highly recommend that you start sampling what the vines of Washington have to offer.

Chicago, A River of Wine

I just got back from the Vin diVino Imports trade tasting in Chicago where I had the pleasure of sampling some 150 different wines. That seems like a lot but when compared with how many wines were shown, it is a drop in the bucket. Yet again, the Austrian wines were the standouts offering delightfully crisp whites to full bodied whites to spicy, racy reds & unctuously sensual dessert wines. Gerhard Kracher was in the house, representing his wines & those of his recently deceased father.

I'll report more fully at a later time.

Gabrielle Collection

I had the pleasure of lunch with Gabrielle Leonhard, owner of the Gabrielle Collection of wines. She focuses on cabernet sauvignon & blends that varietal with syrah, merlot, petite verdot, malbec & cabernet franc. Her passion was obvious, her love of the cabernet was easily discernible. But what really struck me was her overwhelming desire to be a responsible farmer. She farms sustainably so that she isn't confined to the organic regulations & can therefore make decisions that are more ecologically sound. All that & the wines have real depth & life to them. Look for them at your favorite wine shop or restaurant.

Gabrielle Collection

Austrian Wine Dinner at Restaurant Iris

Kerstin Klamm with the top quality wine producer, Domane Wachau, will be the guest of honor at a dinner on Thursday May 1st. Chef Kelly English of Restaurant Iris will be crafting a special menu to pair with Kerstin's wines. Cost to attend is $60 plus tax & gratuity, dinner begins at 6:00 p.m. For reservations contact Restaurant Iris, 901.590.2828. Elizabeth Mall of Delta Wholesale & myself will be in attendance to guide diners through the wine selections & answer any questions about Austrian wines. Last year's Austrian wine dinner sold out in 2 days! Act fast to book a seat.

Resturant Iris
2146 Monroe Avenue
Memphis, TN 38104
901.590.2828

Domane Wachau

Restaurant Iris

This past Friday Kelly & I dined at Restaurant Iris with our good friends Becca & Lee. Anytime I dine at a restaurant's opening weekend, there is always some trepidation. You never know what kinks need to be worked out or what they will hit on or miss completely. However, this experience was unlike any other opening weekend in that nothing needed to be worked out. From the decor to the service to the food itself, it felt as if this restaurant has always been in operation. The design of the space has a New Orleans spice to it which is done very well. The service was friendly & knowledgeable....& the food was fabulous. Spices, sauces & seasoning were all well balanced & the proteins were cooked properly with seared crisp crusts & tender centers. By far my favorite appetizer was the brussels sprouts salad with allan benton's bacon & sherry vinaigrette. How can you not love this bacon???? My entree consisted of seared scallops, cauliflower puree, demi-glace & black truffles. A less than deft hand would have forced this dish over the edge into "way too rich" territory. But this was not the case. Instead, it was rich but balanced, with flavors & textures that were big enough for red wine & all around just ridiculously delicious. Kelly's favorite, Shrimp & grits, didn't disappoint. It was a perfect example of the dish, with an extra added savory quality that I have not tasted in other versions. Tasty, tasty.

All in all, we absolutely loved our experience at Iris. I'm so glad they are in Midtown & not in the nether regions of East Memphis or, god forbid, the suburbs.

I can't wait to eat there again.

Ron Lachini

It isn't often that I get the opportunity to spend time with the man behind such incredible wines. But recently I did just that. The man I'm speaking of is Ron Lachini of Lachini Vineyards. Ever since Elizabeth Mall of Delta Wholesale brought these wines into Memphis last year, I've been in love. Thats really the only way I can describe it, because these wines bring out more emotion & sensuality than most wines I've had.

Ron was in town for two winemaker dinners, one at Roustica & one at Napa Cafe. It says a lot about Memphis that both dinners were sold out, even though they were on a Monday & a Tuesday respectively.

Chef Kevin Rains deftly matched dishes against the luscious fruit, sensual textures, spice & acidity of Ron's pinot gris & pinot noirs.

Memphis continues on its quest for good food & good wine. It is so exciting to see an audience that craves both.

Chez Peltz

Last Saturday, Kelly & I had dinner with our friends Jeff & Kristy. It all started a few weeks ago when we had the snowstorm. Jeff & Kristy both said "See, it isn't too late for cassoulet!" (referencing a previous post of mine on this blog). They invited Kelly & I over for cassoulet, my favorite.

Saturday night we arrived to a full on french style spread of olives, pate (2 kinds) & some delectable cheeses. J&K started us off with a lovely refreshing Hendricks gin martini. I looooove Hendricks gin. I never particularly cared for gin much. Kelly is the gin guy, I usually go for vodka. But Hendricks is something else entirely. After the first martini (or was it two?), we moved into the vino. First up was Caymus Conundrum 2005, which is always fun. It is a fresh, fun white blend from California that emphasizes fruit without sacrificing acidity. The next wine served was my last bottle of Robert Sinskey Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2006 (thank you to one of my customers who gave me a bottle after I turned him on to it. I wish I knew his name!) This beautiful rose so eloquently masquerades as a Provencal rose. The color even looks just like Domaine Ott! It has bright acidity, luscious black cherry & strawberry & a round texture. We then moved to the dinner table & popped open a Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2004. This predominantly sangiovese based wine has the rustic earthiness expected of Italy & a bright beam of acidity. Next it was time for a pair of Chateauneuf du Papes!! The first was the J. Vidal Fleury 2004, a medium bodied CDP with notes of black plum & lavender. The second was Chateau Mont Redon 2003, which was laden with graphite, wild herb & black raspberry. Both were a perfect match for Jeff & Kristy's cassoulet. For those who have never had this dish.....I have almost nothing to say to that except go find or prepare some now! The temperature outside was perfect for this hearty rustic dish, almost 50 degrees! What else needs to be said except, duck confit, smoked ham, white beans, garlic sausage & DUCK FAT!! Life doesn't get much better.

But thats not all the Peltz' had up their sleeve. Over some french press coffee they served us a super bright meyer lemon tart with a light layer of bittersweet chocolate.......& a '98 Chateau Roumieu Sauternes. Superb.

There is nothing more I love than eating fabulous homemade food & drinking outstanding wine with good friends. Throughout the meal we talked about food & wine, Julia Child, restaurants & literature. You know you're having a good time when everyone has something to say & they say it with gusto.

Thanks guys! Can't wait for pizza night!

Happenings at the Majestic Grille

The Majestic Grille is hosting some great events very soon. Check out their site here.

The Coppola dinner sounds so good, I think I was drooling when I read the menu!

Wine Dinner with Ron Lachini of Lachini Vineyards

Monday, March 24th Ron Lachini will be pouring his incredible Oregon wines at Roustica. Lachini Vineyards farms biodynamically, which means they not only protect their ecosystem but they enhance it. All this & the wines will render you speechless. Truly incredible juice. From what I hear, Roustica will be the perfect setting for this. Chef Kevin Rains works hard to change up the menu often, only offering what is fresh & looking fantastic. Cost to attend is $60/person plus tax & gratuity. To make reservations please contact Roustica, 901.726.6228. Don't miss this event.

Saturday Pizza

Last Saturday, Kristi & Warner had us over to celebrate our friend Jeff's birthday. Don't worry Jeff, I won't disclose your age!

I love Kristi's house, it is so beautiful, full of art & welcoming. Not only that, but the woman can cook! We had a spread of meats (even though Kristi is a vegetarian, thank you), cheeses, olives & asparagus waiting for us to nosh on. Jeff & Kristi were feverishly working to prepare homemade pizza dough & fresh toppings. I love homemade pizza almost as much as Kelly does, he likes to think of himself as something of a pizza connoisseur. We were treated to a portobello mushroom, tomato, mozzarella & roasted red pepper pizza; an asparagus, goat cheese, olive & parmiggiano pizza; & my favorite, an apple, pear, grape, walnut & gorgonzola pizza. They were all fantastic, but the apple was the one that stood out for me. It was a classic case of umami, different flavors combining to provide something entirely new. Sweet, savory, salty, creamy, crunchy....yum.


Kelly & I brought a 2006 Vinosia Essenza di Malvasia, made from 100% malvasia. Kelly loved this wine because it reminded him of the Bonny Doon Malvasia Bianca that he used to love. It was super expressive on the nose with notes of white flower, candied ginger & jasmine. The palate was racy, dry, crisp & bright with a freshness to it that glided across the palate. We also brought a 2002 Barham Mendelsohn Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, that was dark & mysterious on the nose, almost wild in its aroma. The palate was rich, full bodied but still silky & voluptuous.

Trip to Oxford

I've never spent much time in Oxford, MS. Even though I've lived in Memphis for 8 years, & heard how Oxford was a cool little village, I never really had the urge to go. Kelly & I took a quick trip down there this past Saturday & had a great time. We stayed at ravine, a very quaint, cute, cozy & nicely designed bed & breakfast that also happens to be one of the best restaurants I've ever been to. It is just outside of the city limits (barely 10 yds from city limits sign) so it is a brown bag restaurant. We traveled with our friends Marlinee & Max, therefore we needed some wine. We like to drink some wine! The choices for the evening were Treana 2001 (in magnum), Scharffenberger Brut NV & Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards 1999 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

The food was exceptional! Chef Joel Miller started us with seared scallops on preserved lemon risotto that were seared to perfection. He also sent out some kobe beef shortrib stuffed ravioli that were stupendous! Next we had fresh oysters with a champagne mignonette, grilled quail, shrimp cakes with red pepper coulis & mini burgers. For salads, Kelly & I split the poached pear & blue cheese salad & Max & Marlinee had the spinach portobello mushroom salad.

My entree was a special that night, seared striped bass with orange couscous with the most crispy skin I've ever tasted. Kelly had handmade pasta with pesto, manchego cheese & braised mushrooms, Max had the hangar steak frites & Marlinee had the rack of lamb with blueberry chipotle sauce & polenta fries.

Every single thing was cooked perfectly, the proteins were juicy with crispy exteriors, the sauces were sublimely flavorful, seasoning was balanced. Simply, a beautiful meal. On top of that, the room we stayed in was beautifully designed, homey & comfortable, so comfortable that I really didn't want to get out of bed this morning. Maybe that had something to do with being hungover....but anyway.

I will be returning to ravine as soon as possible & I highly recommend it to everyone who reads this blog.

Italia!

Joe's Wines, 1681 Poplar, has always had an extensive selection of unique Italian wines. They just got in a whole new crop of good juice from the boot. For the size of that store, their level of selection is very impressive. Some of the new bottles include wines such as: Cantina del Taburno Falanghina, Fattoria Le Terrazze Sassi Neri & Rosso Conero, Tavignano Verdicchio & Costantini Massarosa Frascati Superiore. There are over 1000 registered grape types in Italy alone, which makes for a very exciting exploration should you choose to experiment with them. You'll never be bored, that is for sure. Check 'em out!

Winter's Funeral

I'm saddened to see the passing of Winter, I don't care if you think I'm weird. Yes, it was a lovely weekend here in Memphis. We had the windows open & even ate dinner outside with our very good friends Eve, Jeff & Rickie. But, Winter was barely given a chance. We don't seem to get a good solid Winter in Memphis, only passable intermittent days that hover around 25 degrees F. Yeah that's cold, but it never lasts & it sure as hell never brings snow. I never got to make cassoulet, something I love in the cold season. I guess I'll have to wait until next year.

Lachini Wine Dinner at Restaurant Iris

Restaurant Iris is a much anticipated new restaurant that is set to open in the old La Tourelle space on Monroe. Chef Kelly English previously worked for the James Beard award winning chef John Besh in New Orleans. Chef English is very passionate about local, fresh ingredients & presents them in a unique & delicious way. He also promises to offer Southern cheeses from dairies south of the Mason-Dixon. The wine list will be small & unique with high-quality selections from boutique producers. As a kick off event, Ron Lachini of Lachini Vineyards will be pouring his wines to pair with Chef Kelly English's delectable cuisine on Monday March 24th. Cocktails begin at 6:00 p.m. Cost to attend is $60 per person plus tax & gratuity.

For more information:
Restaurant Iris

For the Love

I had the honor of leading a wine & cheese pairing with Jim Tanner of Bonnie Blue Farms. Jim & his wife Gayle run the only Farmstead Goat Cheese dairy in the state of Tennessee. There cheeses are absolutely delicious. We paired cheeses with wines at Circa this past Sunday. All wines are available by the glass or bottle on Circa's winelist. It is so inspiring to see artisans at work, & to taste the product of their passion. Jim makes some damn good cheese, I can't wait to get my hands on more at this summers Memphis Farmer's Market downtown. The first cheese was a fresh chevre paired with a Pouilly Fume. Sauvignon blanc & goat cheese, such a classic. Next was the feta, which Jim indicated is not aged too long in brine. Therefore, it isn't as salty as most fetas. We paired that with Gunderloch Jean-Baptiste Riesling, the sweetness played off the saltiness of the cheese. Then we had the Hickory Smoked feta with Champalou Vouvray Cuvee de Fondraux, the hint of sweetness & flint in the wine played off the smoke in the cheese nicely. Next was a Gouda style with Olivier Savary Chablis. On to reds. Rex Hill Pinot Noir matched up against a Rosemary/Garlic Chevre, the earthiness of the pinot complimented the rosemary's herbal tones. A tomme style goat cheese was paired with Earthquake Petite Sirah. The last cheese was my favorite, it is something new Jim is playing with. They have crafted a Camembert style cheese that is so creamy, luscious & slightly grassy/earthy. Wonderful. That cheese was matched up against Clos la Coutale Cahors. The earthy, gaminess of the malbec/merlot blend brought out the pungency of the cheese.

There is some amazing cheese being made in Tennessee, check it out.

Bonnie Blue Farm.

The Great Grape?

I have the pleasure of tasting many wines on a regular basis. I always keep notes because if not, they are sometimes difficult to recall. However, sometimes there are wines that are unforgettable. Two such wines, who both happen to be the same varietal, happened upon me very recently.

Kelly & I were craving a good bottle. I decided to pop open a 2002 Neyers Hudson Vineyard Syrah from Napa Valley. The at the core of the glass was a deep black color with barely any hints of ruby at the rim. On the nose was heady aromas of blueberry soaked bacon, smoke & black olive. The palate also exhibited blueberry, bacon & black olive with medium grade, very integrated tannins. It was slightly hot on the finish, which blew off as it sat in the glass. Outstanding.

2005 Montes Alpha Syrah Apalta Vineyard from Colchagua Valley, Chile. Wow...seriously wow. The nose was doses of licorice, blueberry jam & dried ham. It was expressive on the nose but not overpowering, more leaning towards elegance. My goodness, what a rich, round palate, but balanced & beautiful as well. The wine is medium bodied with firm tannins, blue & black fruits & a nice long finish that lingers with fresh acidity & licorice.

I love syrah when its done well.

The Great State of Washington

I have recently had the pleasure of tasting a myriad of wines from Washington state, almost all of them were outstanding & none of them were of poor quality.

Most notable was the Andrew Will Champoux Vineyard 2005, a blend of 45% cabernet sauvignon, 20% cabernet franc, 30% merlot & 5% petit verdot. At the heart of the glass was a core of dark, almost black, color that extended almost to the rim. The nose expressed plum & blackberry in an elegant & slightly dusty/earthy manner. The palate was rich & supple with black currant, black raspberry, smoke & spice. It had a very firm grip & beautiful balance. What really struck me was that winemaker Chris Carmada was not going for higher brix, but supreme balance. The result was a wine that was never too sweet or fruit driven. It was beautiful & seamless, each characteristic playing a supporting role that pushed forth one absolutely stunning wine. I believe this bottle will be on Circa's new wine list. It is by no means an inexpensive bottle, but it is more than worth it. When compared to California wines of the same quality, this is a bargain!

Keep an eye out for a Washington State wine dinner soon?

New Wine List!

Check out the new wine list at Majestic Grille.

Zaca Mesa

On Monday, I had the privilege of tasting a small lineup of wines from Zaca Mesa Winery. For more information visit their website. Four wines were poured. I like these smaller tastings, it gives me a good snapshot of what the winery's style is like without being overwhelming.

The first wine poured was the 2004 Roussanne. I've always loved Rhone Valley grape types & roussanne is no exception. It's quite surprising what happens to this grape when grown outside of its homeland. It is either really BAD or quite delicious. Luckily, this wine fell into the latter category. Aromas of spiced pear, clove & applewood sprung out of the glass, but didn't knock me over. The palate exhibited a round, rich but not heavy texture with bright acidity, flavors of almond & a lanolin-glycerol finish. Just lovely.

Next up was the 2005 Chardonnay. Okay, typically I'm not a chard guy. In fact most of the time I loathe what gets done to this poor grape in the new world. However, this wine was a surprise. Notes of apple, preserved lemon & lime curd on the nose. It showed limestone, poached apple & a fresh, crisp acid on the palate.

On with the reds, with the 2003 Z cuvee, a blend of grenache, syrah & mourvedre. The aromas were quite savory at first with the cinnamon & dill which led to cranberry & blackberry. The palate was luscious with notes of dark wild berry compote, smoke, dried meat & lavender.

Last up was the 2003 Z Three, also a blend of syrah, grenache & mourvedre. However, this wine was a more elegant expression than the Cuvee. I wish it would have been poured first, but oh well. The nose was straight up Rhone Valley traditional with notes of garrigue, earth & red berries. The palate was ripe & earthy, medium-bodied with integrated tannins, very Chateauneuf du Pape in style. Very nice.

Tonight's Tasting

Tonight on the Commercial Appeal food blog Whining & Dining, the wine of the week is Canella Rose Brut NonVintage. This flesh toned sparkling wine is a lovely expression of pinot nero (what the Italians call pinot noir). Log on to the website at 7:00 p.m. CST to taste with tonights wine personality Elizabeth Mall, with Delta Wholesale. She is smart, funny & extremely knowledgeable about wine, not to mention beautiful. Elizabeth is one of those rare individuals in the wine business that isn't pretentious, isn't a snob & doesn't flaunt her knowledge. Join her tonight to taste! This wine is the perfect color for Valentine's Day.

Achtung! Carova Milk Bar!

So we meet again, the Carova Milk Bar that is. The lovely Meagan graced us with a delightfully delicious Sineann 2006 Gewurztraminer Celilo Vineyard Columbia Gorge, WA. She smuggled that one back from a trip with her husband Richie. It had a bright green-gold color with a nose of white flowers, jasmine, honeysuckle, rosewater, lavender & pure fennel, tarragon, & apricot fruit flavors.

Next up was the 2005 Inman Family Olivet Grange Vineyard Pinot Noir Russian River Valley provided by Michael Barar. The nose was pure black cherry fruit with dill, licorice & tea. The palate was silky, luscious, lightly creamy with an integrated acidity & elegant structure.

My contribution was a Delas Freres 1997 Hermitage Cuvee Marquis de la Tourette (which Wine Spectator says wasn't imported. Ha! I bought it in Louisville, KY!). The dark purple color barely revealed its age. The nose was all tradition with dried meat, leather, star anise & fennel. The palate displayed leather, bacon, dried blueberry & soil. It went perfectly with the lamb stew I prepared. Yum!

Elizabeth brought along a Szigeti NV Rose from Austria. Its pure color was onion & salmon tinted. The nose was raspberry-lime, stone & black licorice. The palate had cherry soda, strawberry & crisp acidity on a creamy structure.

The next Michael Barar wine was the Rhys Alesia Syrah Sonoma Coast 2003. The dark purple color did not give a hint at its age. On the nose was black fruits, pork & blueberry. The supple, full rich palate gave me the impression that it could last another 5 more years.

Mr. Chi popped open an Oliver Hill Shiraz 2005. It's black black BLACK color was impenetrable. On the nose was deep menthol, blackberry & smoke. The palate was very big & rich, full, huuuuuuuuge. Whoa. For anyone who likes to be molested by their wine, go for this one.

Lastly, I decided to open a 1999 Castello di Ama Vin Santo. Its honeyed nose had aromas of apricot & nuts. The luscious texture was sweet & pure with nice acid, rich but not heavy. Lovely.

Cheers to another meeting of the Carova Milk Bar.

What is your favorite?

Awhile back, I asked a few friends what their favorite wines were & here are their responses.

Dave Brown:

• Pol Roger Champagne NV
• Bollinger Special Cuvee Champagne NV
• Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Champagne NV
• Moran Pinot Noir
• Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape
• Domaine Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape
• Domaine de Villenueve Chateauneuf du Pape
• David Bruce Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
• Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc

Erin Hutton:

• Terre Rouge Syrah Sierra Foothills 2003?
• Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir 2003
• Robert Stemmler Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2004

Meagan & Richard Lewis

• Everything Loring!
• Torre Muga 1998
• Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot
• BV George de Latour 1976 (you bitches)
• Rosenblum Le Paws Blanc & Rouge
• Sokol Blosser Evolution
• 1986 Dom Perignon

Its so interesting to see how everyone's styles & tastes are very diverse.

Saturday Night with Becca & Lee

I was surprised when I realized I had this past Saturday evening off. Instead of just hanging out at home with Kelly, we decided to invite our good friends Becca & Lee over for dinner.

Here was the menu:

1st Course: Beef Carpaccio with truffle oil, maldon salt, shaved parmiggiano & fresh arugula tossed in blood orange juice. Paired with 2002 Au Bon Climat Le Bauge Au Dessus Pinot Noir

2nd Course: Steamer pot of clams, shrimp & chorizo (the spanish kind) with white wine, butter & basil

3rd Course: Puff pastry layered with gorgonzola & served over a blueberry-balsamic black pepper sauce. Paired with 2006 Adelsheim Deglace of Pinot Noir.

Kelly feels that the most successful pairing was the dessert. He mostly doesn't care for dessert wine at all so it must have been the best!

The special treat of the night was the exquisite bottle of wine that Becca brought. Get ready to drool because it is not available in the States. Chateau Golan Royal Reserve Syrah 2004 Golan Heights, Israel. Oh.....wow. The nose was straight up old world Northern Rhone. Blue-black fruits with hints of dried meat & herbs. I think I smelled it for about a minute or two before tasting it. The palate was rich but not heavy or overpowering. It was tight at first, Kelly even mentioned he thought it needed to open up. But it was obvious of the potential. After a few minutes, it blossomed into sweet blueberry, tarragon, bacon, subtle oak....absolutely delicious. I just recently tasted an Ambullneo Syrah which was super highly rated by certain critics. The Chateau Golan blew it away, without question . Thank you Becca!!!

Paul Hobbs Tasting @ Circa

Circa will be offering specially selected wines with Chef John Bragg's innovative cuisine to match, every other Wednesday beginning January 16th. This first event will feature the wines of world renowned winemaker Paul Hobbs. The selections will be sourced from his properties in California & South America. Mark Harris from Athens Distributing will be on hand to present each wine. Cost is $55 per person & seating is limited.

Start time is 7:00. Please call 901.522.1488 for reservations or other inquiries.

www.circamemphis.com

The Culture of Wine & Food

Certain consultants in the city of Memphis are striving to make this city desirable for the college educated 24-35 yr olds. Thriving cultural activities is the major driving factor when these individuals are deciding what city to settle in. Doesn't wine & food qualify as culture? Look at the amount of independently owned restaurants here. That says volumes about how important, dare I say sacred?, food is to our city. Wine is quickly becoming that way too. Look at the statistics. The U.S. is poised to overtake Italy in total yearly wine consumption. Italy! And this small southern city is drinking its fair share! It's not only the upper crust either. Everyone is drinking wine, and getting more curious about it. Wine drinkers are getting younger and younger. 21 & 22 yr olds are buying Sicilian nero d'avolas, Spanish tempranillos & Oregon pinot noirs. Its very exciting! But the previously mentioned consultants aren't factoring in the thirst for wine or the need for wine professionalism when looking at what draws people to Memphis. I hear rumblings of a Memphis Food & Wine Experience. The forward thinkers need to get behind that immediately. That event could bring big money, huge exposure & a better image for Memphis.

Bubble Time!

Check out my latest article here. The only thing I love more than writing about Champagne & sparkling wine is drinking it!

Noble Rot From A Noble Man

Alois Kracher has passed away. I know I'm a little late in reporting this, but posting about death just seems very difficult to do. I was never able to meet Mr. Kracher, but I did meet his son Gerhard last year in Chicago at VinDiVino's annual trade tasting. Gerhard was so full of life & so overwhelmingly friendly. I can't help but think that he got that from his father. Seth Allen of VinDiVino Imports had this to say about Kracher "The loss of a close friend is tragic, but saying good bye to Luis Kracher renders me senseless". He continues on to say "Much will be written, and indeed, just hours after Luis left us, much has already been written about the greatness of his wines, about their originality, the singularity of their expression, and about how they cast a wave of adolescent vitality upon the reticent and formal domain of "world class" wine. To these heartfelt expressions of appreciation and even idolatry I can only say that I also stand in the ovation, one more hedonist glowing and sated, just another fan."

His wines are so haunting, they can rattle you to your very core. The sheer power of them are simply astonishing. I feel sorry for those who think that sweet wines are too simple, too adolescent. But honestly, to hell with them. There is more for me. Everyone owes it to this great man, & great winemaker, & to themselves, to taste the beauty he gave us. May his soul rest in peace.

Rose Wine For Winter Time

I know. It's winter time, time to put away the rose. But here in Memphis, it was actually 75 degrees yesterday. Yeah, no such thing as global warming??? Anyway, Kelly and I had our friend Mezmary over for drinks and some television watching the other night. I popped open one of my last bottles of Robert Sinskey Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2006. It had a lovely pale salmon, onion skin color. So delicate and pretty. On the nose were classic pinot noir aromas of cherry, earth & minerals. That delicate hue of pink hid a supple, mouthfilling wine. It was elegantly rich, with ripe black cherry, bright acidity & a hint of tea. The acid was nice and refreshing. Everything about this wine was beautiful. It simply is the best rose I've ever had. I wish I had some olives and dried meats to go with it!

Aussie wines, yet another disappointment

Last night, in celebration of Kelly successfully defending his Master's thesis, I prepared a nice meal. I seared some beautiful strip loins of beef in butter & olive oil, set those aside and began work on the sauce. I sauteed baby portabello mushrooms in the same pan I seared the steaks in with sherry, red wine, beef stock, onions & garlic. After reducing that for a bit I stirred in butter, poured that on a rectangle serving dish and placed slices of the rare steak over the sauce. On the side I served roasted garlic mashed potatoes & baked broccoli. De-licious!

So I wanted a bold red wine to pair up with the steak & sauce. I pulled out a bottle of 2003 Shirvington Shiraz from the McLaren Vale region of Australia.

Very disappointing. It was rich, almost port-like, with heavy tannins, a bitter astringency, no mid-palate, a very odd stewed fennel flavor profile & a finish that left my palate exhausted with alcohol. I almost wanted to get up and brush my teeth after tasting it. 96 points Robert Parker, whatever. Is his palate so jaded that all he can appreciate are overpowering wines that are exhaustive? Even Kelly didn't really care for the wine & he LOVES big, bold, tannic wines.

Oh well, you win some you lose some.

Sunday Suppers at the Majestic Grille

Last night Kelly, Richie, Meagan & I went to the Majestic Grille for their Sunday Supper. The menu included a winter green salad with cucumber, tomato, feta, onion & red wine vinaigrette; pork loin braised with apples & cider, rosemary & garlic potatoes, smashed roasted parsnips & carrots & a warm apple cake with chantilly cream. All this food for only $60 (which feeds 4).

The salad was bright & delicious, with a bitter hit from the greens, crispness from the cucumber, yummy salty feta, tart & delicious red wine vinaigrette, an overall winner of a salad.

The main course of pork loin was perfectly tender & moist. Braising in apples & cider created a rich and savory sauce that was a perfect foil to the tender pork. Add to that earthy parsnips & carrots & rosemary potatoes, all in all it was a perfect dish for a cold evening. Not to mention a perfect match for a glass of MontGras Reserva Merlot from their new wine list.

So we come to dessert. From our table I could see into the kitchen where Chef Patrick Reilly was putting the finishing touches on our warm apple cake. When it hit the table I immediately was hit with a spicy sweet aroma & I instantly began to drool. This was warm, moist, spicy & not too sweet. I hope and pray that they put this cake on their regular dessert menu so we can have it more often.

Everyone should try Majestic Grille's Sunday Suppers. Last nights meal was superb & we will be sure to return for more.

Ridge Vertical

I have been lucky enough to have acquired, over time, 3 different vintages of Ridge Geyserville. This is the winery's description of the Geyserville vineyard:

First RIDGE Geyserville: 1966
Location: Western edge of Alexander Valley, Sonoma County.
Elevation: 200'
Soils: Gravelly loam
Age of vines: 40-year-old zinfandel, 12 acres.
11-year-old zinfandel, 15 acres.
121-year-old mixed blacks, 5 acres.
21-year-old petite sirah, 5 acres.
11-year-old petite sirah, 3.5 acres.
111-year-old carignane, 7 acres.
Training: Head trained (no trellis), spur pruned.
Yields: 1-3 tons/acre
Climate: Occasional morning fog, warm days with frequent evening breezes.
Exposure: Southern

This particular vineyard is owned by Leo & Evelyn Trentadue.

Michael Barar so nicely provided us with a bottle of 2005 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Chardonnay, which just so happened to have been named #2 on Wine Spectator's Top 100 of 2007. Check out this pdf file on the vineyard. The color was pure golden straw. On the nose were aromas of cream, lemon curd, kaffir lime & orange. The palate showed minerals, lemon, fresh bright acid, lemon leaf & a long long finish.

Okay, so here goes.

First up is the 2001 Geyserville. It held a purple core that stretched to a ruby tinted rim. The nose held aromas of fig, soil, blackberry, black raspberry & licorice. What immediately struck me about the palate was the vibrant acid, it was so fresh & lively. Flavors of blackberry liqueur, spice & star anise led into firm tannins. I wish I had a few more bottles of this because it will continue to develop nicely.

Next was the 2002. The core was purple colored leaning to a ruby-pink rim. The nose displayed fig, blueberry, raspberry & milk chocolate. On the palate were firm grained tannins, light dustiness, flavors of cocoa powder, raspberry & tannins that hit the hard palate on the roof of my mouth.

The 2003 held a darker color than the 2002. Aromas of dark chocolate covered raspberry with smoke & red currant leaped out of the glass. The palate was tight & needs time to develop. Aromas of fresh red fruit was slightly diminished but there was evidence of a great wine that just needed some bottle age.

Last but not least (thanks to Richie & Meagan) was the 2004. The color was slightly more translucent than the 2003, almost a pure ruby color. The nose was very elegant with light cinnamon, lavender, rosemary, fennel & brown sugar. A fresh bright acid, reminiscent of the 01, drove a palate that was drier than the 02 or 03. Flavors of licorice, pretty red & black fruit drifted on a long finish that goes on & on. Wow.

Overall it was an eye opening experience. Throughout their subtle differences the family resemblance & terroir of Geyserville was evident. I hope I get to participate in many more vertical tastings.

Cheers!

Winter Wines

Check out my latest article. Winter is my favorite season, and I'm so glad we are actually getting one this year. Of course, the moment I say that it will turn to 70 degrees and humid. No such thing as global warming??????????

A Bicycle Built for Two

I recently tasted a few wines from Tandem Winery at Star Distributor's holiday trade show. The standout was the 2004 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot Noir. The first thing that struck me was the beautifully translucent ruby color. It is exactly the way a good pinot should look. I've grown a bit weary of pinot noirs that are overly aggressive and almost syrah-like. What struck me next was the lively aromas of clove & cinnamon. I know those aren't classic aromas, but they were so intoxicating. Those spice aromas led straight into a luscious textured palate that covered my mouth in velvet. I can't wait to taste it again.

Cuckoo for Aussies

Check out my latest article here. Dan Phillips is a bit intense, and his responses show just that. Ego is one thing, but C'MON!

Viva Espana

Passion is not confined to certain parts of the country, or the world for that matter. I grew up in a very small town in Illinois. Wine was on the table, yes, but it didn't play a bigger role than the food did. It was just there, much like salt a pepper. I can remember my grandmother, Ta, bringing wine home from Spain. Specifically the Torres Sangre de Toro, which is widely available all over the country. But back then it was exotic. I can remember just staring at the bottle, and the little black bull hanging from the neck. It was just simply the most mesmerizing thing I had ever seen. This bottle, and the wine inside, was actually from another part of the world. A place where I would grow up to eventually see, but at the time it was a place I could only imagine. I felt a connection to Spain, and the wine. Ta would talk about Spain as if it were a relative. The country played a role in the stories of family, memories that she gathered over a lifetime. Invariably this storytelling time would revolve around a meal she was preparing for us, the food nurturing our bellies and the words nurturing our hearts. Maybe that is why Sangre de Toro will always have a special place in my heart. Every time I see the bottle I think of Ta. Every time I hold the bull in my hand I think of my Spain.

Beef Carpaccio

I absolutely love Beef Carpaccio. It is a perfect meal for meat lovers in this triple digit heat. Kelly thinks that I make the best Beef Carpaccio in the world. I won't argue :)

First, I start with the best quality beef I can find. Normally I would go to Charlie's Meat Market, 4790 Summer Avenue 38122. They have a great selection, excellent quality and a true "butcher" atmosphere. However, with Sunday being my only day off I went to Fresh Market. I've experimented with a number of different cuts of meat for this recipe such as tenderloin and sirloin, but I've found that strip steak works the best. It has the most flavor and best texture and mouthfeel.

Next, I coat the steak with a heavy blend of sea salt and freshly cracked pepper. If you've had the steak in the fridge for sometime, let it come to room temperature before searing. Get a medium-sized skillet SCREAMING hot. Add enough olive oil to barely coat the pan and place in the steaks. After 2 minutes check them, if there is a nice brown crust flip them over. After both sides are crusty and brown place both of the steaks on a plate and in the freezer for 5 minutes. Placing the meat in the freezer makes it firm up and cool down quickly. Take the steaks out and slice them into 1/4 inch slices. Place them on a sheet of plastic wrap and cover with another sheet. Using a rolling pin (or empty wine bottle which is what I normally use), bash the hell out of the meat until it is very thin. Arrange the thin steak on a serving platter. In a mixing bowl, toss one package of pre-rinsed baby spinach or arugula with the juice of half a lemon. Drizzle the beef with truffle oil, scatter with coarse sea salt (I prefer Maldon, which you can buy at Mantia's, 4856 Poplar Ave. 38117, along with the truffle oil), top with spinach and shaved Parmiggiano-Reggiano. I like to use a vegetable peeler to get nice cheese shavings of the block of Parmiggiano. The best accompaniment with the Carpaccio is thick slices of grilled rustic Italian or French bread.

To pair with the Carpaccio I poured a 2002 Catena Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendoza, Argentina. The supple tannins and sweet black fruit paired nicely with the earthiness of the beef and truffle. The full body and nice acidity cut through the texture of the beef. Delicious.

Sunday is For Eating & Drinking

It never ceases to amaze me how much my friends and I love to cook great food and pair it with great wine. This past Sunday, Patrick, Sabrina and I got together to cook, drink wine and talk about what pairs best with what wine. As we like to do, we allowed what was fresh and beautiful to influence what our meal would be. Everything except for the proteins. Patrick was curious to know how a pork roast would pair with a 1997 Felsina Chianti Classico he had. And I wanted to see how my 2002 Shea Wine Cellars Shea Estate Pinot Noir would do up against a roast duck. These two meats obviously needed some overnight treatments. My duck laid in a brine of water, soy sauce, brown sugar, salt, peppercorns, star anise and a dash of balsamic vinegar. This overnight bath helped to tenderize and impart good flavor. Patrick nestled his pork loin in a dry spice rub, garlic and olive oil. At Fresh Market Sabrina found beautiful shrimp, bay scallops and crab for a luscious seafood bisque to pair with a 2006 Zaca Mesa Viognier.

We started off with a mixed olive tapenade that I prepared at home and spread on crisp homemade crostini. This paired harmoniously with a 2005 Cantina Del Taburno Falanghina. The brininess of the olive and sharpness of the garlic contrasted nicely with the minerality and bright fruit and acidity of the wine. Next was super fresh salad of avocado, mixed greens and fresh pink grapefruit. Gracias Sabrina. This zippy salad paired amazingly well with the 2005 Alois Kracher Pinot Gris. I've never had a botrytis affected pinot gris, my concept of what a pinot gris can be is now truly changed forever. Everyone in Memphis should taste this wine.

Next was the seafood bisque and Zaca Mesa Viognier. The wine was a cool pale silver-gold hue with a nose of apricot and rosehip tea. The fresh oily texture, creaminess and apricot fruit paired wonderfully with the creamy richness of the soup. The sweet crab and scallops brought out more fruit and acidity in the wine. Lovely.

We retrieved the duck from the oven, nicely browned and crisp and perfectly done. The Shea Pinot Noir that I paired with it still seemed too young. Even though I wished it was ready to drink, it does mean that Oregon can produce serious, age-worthy pinot noir. It had a deep ruby-purple color with a nose of fennel, licorice and black cherry. The palate of black fruit, olive and bright full acidity cut through the richness of the duck and played off its gaminess. I re-tasted it with the olive tapenade and it was stunning together, an explosion of olive!

The '97 Felsina and Patrick's beautifully roasted pork loin was heavenly. The herb and smokiness of the pork and its hit of garlic blended seamlessly with the flavors and supple textures of the perfectly aged Chianti Classico. The varied terroirs throughout Italy produce such beautiful wines that can't be reproduced anywhere else in the world. The meal and wine was incredible. I don't think I ate again for a few days.

Riesling Like Never Before

I've tasted the future and it's Austrian Riesling. The 2005 Stadt Krems Steinterrassen Riesling is amazing. The acidity is mouthwatering with an exceptional hit of limestone minerality. The aromas pack white peach, nectarine, apricot and chalky limestone all together with a hit of green herb, smoke and petrol. The finish is fresh and bright and lasts for what seems like hours. I would love to taste this wine with some yellowtail or tuna ceviche or sashimi with a bright citrus element. Wow! The wine does need a few minutes to allow the alcohol to blow off and balance out. Other than that, it's practically the perfect wine. Especially in this ungodly Memphis heat.