Oregon-itis

I'm still reeling from my June trip to Oregon. I promise to have more posts up about it very soon.

Project Green Fork Turns 3!

One of the most unique (& necessary) organizations is turning 3 years old & the party is not to be missed. Project Green Fork (founded here in the creative & delicious city of Memphis) works with restaurants to help them become less wasteful & less burdensome to the environment, among many other things. Details for the birthday celebration are below. Come sip some delicious cocktails & wish PGF a happy birthday!

Really, I'm not kidding

"I'm allergic to sulfur".

Really? Really? You have to be frigging kidding me. I've heard this garbage over & over again & it is exhausting to listen to.

"What organic wines do you have? I know they don't have sulfur in them because they're organic."

Uggh


"I don't want anything imported," after she asked for an Alsatian wine of course "Everything imported has tons of sulfur in it because it has to be preserved."

Jesus lady who fed you this horseshit?

"Well maam we do have quite a few organic & biodynamic wines but their farming practices doesn't necessarily have anything to do with their ahem sulfur content. Also, imported wines (such as the Alsatian you just asked for) don't necessarily have more ahem sulfur content than domestic wines."

"Well, I'm allergic to sulfur so I have to be careful."

gag

"Let me ask you this; how is your reaction?"

"I get sick to my stomach & I get a headache."

"Thats interesting because the 1% of the population who is actually allergic to sulfites has difficulty breathing when they ingest sulfites. Not headaches. Not nausea."

"When you wind up in a coma because of sulfites you tend to be more careful."

You have to be shitting me. Is this woman for real?

Whoever perpetuated the falsehood that getting a minor headache or a bit of hot flashes equals a sulfite allergy should be drawn & quartered. This weekend preferably.

A Few Oregon Pics

My friend Darlene & the tasting lineup at Erath Vineyards.



Dinner time at the Stoller House.



I love wearing a jacket in June



Neighbors



About to get some delicious Argyle bubbly



Damn I want that bottle of Brut Rose



Rollin Soles' mustache is way cooler than yours

Come On

I really don't like it when a sales rep tries to sell me a wine by telling me "so & so store is flying through this. They bought, like, 6 or 7 cases of it." Come. On. Really? Are we that store? No. So don't compare us.

Lachini, finally

I have been a huge fan of Lachini Vineyards ever since my good friend Elizabeth brought them into the Memphis market about 4 years ago. Ron Lachini's wines are elegant yet display such power & grace. I finally got my chance to visit this outstanding vineyard site on my Oregon excursion a few weeks ago. The day couldn't have been more perfect. The sun was shining, spotty clouds were keeping it from being too bright & the vines & Valley were splayed out before us. John Peacock greeted us with snacks & open bottles. Since it was our fourth stop of the day the group was a little restless but we soon were laughing, sipping wine & snacking on sushi. First up was the rose of pinot noir. Such a gorgeous faintly blushing hue but with a deep aroma of fruit, spice & minerals. The texture was lush but very thirst-quenching. It was easy to tell that this bottle would be a perfect foil for a rustic grilled meal. It's also La Tache clone which almost made my head explode when I found that out! Wow.

John poured us some Estate Pinot Noir as we wandered out into the vineyard & relaxed on the stone patio. Nearby is where the new tasting room will be built. That is without a doubt going to be a welcome addition to a neighborhood that also includes Bergstrom & Adelsheim. The pinots are hauntingly good with finishes that won't let up. Delicious. Ron Lachini himself led us through the estate vineyard to discuss farming practices & the trials & tribulations of growing pinot noir.

Lachini not only produces exceptional pinot noir from Oregon but he also crafts gripping reds from Washington State as well. Bold cab & cab blends that can age for 10 years or more. These wines would put any California Bordeaux style blend to shame. But who's comparing?



Thank you Ron & thank you John for an experience the group will never forget!

Now I'm thirsty for some pinot....

Oregon- Day 2 Pt 2

From Owen Roe we headed over to Dundee to one of my absolute favorite producers; Argyle. This winery makes exceptional pinot noir, chardonnay & riesling. But what makes me really swoon is their sparkling wine. It's just....well....just....words don't really describe how much I love their bubbly. The Brut is yeasty, lush yet crisp, & palate caressing. The http://argylewinery.com/2000-Knudsen-Vineyard-Brut.php (I couldn't find current notes) is absolutely haunting. So elegant yet with an underlying, subtle power & grace. It's a bubbly that I want to save for special occasions yet its a wine that I want to drink every weekend. Now how to balance that....



That was a very big tank that wasn't full at the time but I would have loved to have swam around in it if it was filled with some Extended Tirage 2001



Speaking of which...

Argyle was an incredible stop & they really showed the group absolutely everything. From production to aging to dosage to tirage. We tasted old vintages of chardonnay, every bubbly (except my favorite the Rose) they make & even had a delicious lunch in their private room. Rollin Soles (founder & winemaker) came out & spoke with us about Memphis BBQ & really had a great time interacting with the group. I'll never stop drinking their wines.

Onward to Torii Mor where we had a 3:00 pm appointment with Todd Stewart, National Sales Manager.

Todd was a fellow Southerner & just moved from North Carolina to take the job with Torii Mor. His passion for the wines was blatantly obvious & infectious. It's hard not to be passionate about wines as good as that & located in such a gorgeous setting. Their pinot gris was austere, elegant & loaded with mouthwatering acidity with hints of floral notes & nuttiness. The pinots are elegant, gripping, earthy & obviously can be long-lived. We used the black label Willamette Valley Pinot Noir for wine club in June at Joe's. It was a magical experience for a few to taste one of their wine club wines at the very site it was made.

Now on to Lachini Vineyards

Day 2 - Oregon

Sorry for the lapse in posts but the rest of our trip was jam packed & didn't allow me a moments rest to blog. So here we go...

Waking up to this wasn't half bad at all especially considering it's 100 billion degrees back home in Memphis.





Our house was located right outside the estate vineyards of Stoller. This picturesque setting is also the source for some world class wines from not only Stoller but also Chehalem & Argyle to name a few.

First stop: Owen Roe

Owen Roe Winery is well known for their bold, dark, & gripping wines sourced from premier vineyards in Washington State. Their winery is located in St Paul, Oregon in the eastern part of the Willamette Valley. Since they are not open to the public this was a rare treat for the Joe's Winos Club.



We were there just as their were bottling the new vintage of Ravenna Riesling in a mobile bottling line.



While most people might find something like this boring everyone on the trip was fascinated by it. Each person was inquisitive & curious about the necessary process to bring wine to market. Since OR uses mobile bottling it showcases how small they really are.

Now to the fun part...



Starting with a delicious pinot gris was a perfect mouth-watering beginning to the day. Fresh, clean, bright, & zippy yet with an undertone of rich pear & hazelnut.



Next it was on to one of my favorite things: barrel sampling. Samples were pulled of two different clones of pinot noir grown side by side in the same vineyard. The group got to experience first hand how unique each clone can be even when grown adjacent to each other. Its one thing to attempt to explain this to someone but its something else entirely to experience. I could see eyes lighting up with the "ok I get it!" face.

After tasting through a few more samples I asked if a barrel sample of the 2008 Red Willow Vineyard Chapel Block Syrah could be pulled. He said yes & ran off for a pitcher. Red Willow is such a desolate & starkly beautiful vineyard producing ruggedly delicious grapes.



We continued on through some other Washington wines of theres such as Rosa Mystica Cabernet Franc which was deep, dark, haunting, gripping, lush & super aromatic. The Yakima Valley Red was plush, with subtle yet bold tannins (I know, seems like an oxymoron) & dark spice & fruit notes.



Next up, Argyle........

Day 1-Oregon

I got a bit worried when we were in MSP on our layover. Flight delays make me nervous. However, this one was quick & painless & we were on our way to PDX. I never cease to be in awe of the rugged beauty of the scenery when flying into PDX.



As soon as we grabbed our bags & got the vans we were off for Willamette Valley.

First Stop: Erath Winery

Located in the much coveted Dundee Hills AVA this venerable winery has been a touchstone for Oregon wines.



Erath gave us a warm welcome & poured some absolutely stunning pinots for us. There is good reason why they have been around so long.

After Erath we headed to our three vineyard houses on the Stoller Vineyards property. Brad, Brandon & I got to work preparing a very PacNW spread of grilled salmon that I rubbed with dill, mustard, lemon zest, lemon juice, s&p.



Bring on Day 2

Film & Music

Now I know this isn't food or wine related but this sounds like one of the most unique events. Everyone who can should go check this out.

AMIK & Cooper Mountain

Simplicity, creativity, modernity & tradition are how I would describe Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen. While modernity & tradition may not seem to easily live side by side these chefs make it seem effortless. However, thats not to say that a lot of work goes into that beautiful plate set in front of me.

We started this most recent meal off with a glass of Cooper Mountain Pinot Gris 2008 Reserve Willamette Valley $16.99. This is a perfect example of what pinot gris can achieve in Oregon. Aromas of almond, pear, fruit blossom & minerals lead to medium bodied yet crisp refreshing palate.

Our first course was a bowl of spaghetti carbonara with fried sweetbreads. This warm hug of a dish was elevated with unctuous sweetbreads. The round texture yet bright nature of the Cooper Mountain Chardonnay 2009 Reserve Willamette Valley $18.99 matched up so delicously. This style of chardonnay is very old world with an emphasis on expressing location rather than oak or malo.

Second course was seared halibut with roasted pistachio puree & spring vegetables paired with Cooper Hill Pinot Noir 2009 Willamette Valley $18.99. The halibut was seared crisp but super tender & moist in the center. The pistachio puree brought out an earthiness in the pinot & they both just sang together in a delightfully savory way. The wines acidity cut through the richness of the puree & a supple fish.

Course three was Donnell Farms Hangar Steak over mustard green shoots paired with Cooper Mountain Pinot Noir Mountain Terroir 2008 Willamette Valley $35.99. I love love love hangar steak because of it's toothsomeness. It takes talent to coax this cut of meat into a tender beauty & A&M know how to do it. Pairing it with a spicy/bitter green shoot was a stroke of genius. The supple, luscious, earthy, elegant & sensual pinot noir was absolutely delightful. What Cooper Mountain is able to do with pinot noir is nothing short of beauty. When you match hauntingly sensual wine with exquisitely prepared food it's easy to have a lovely evening.

French Style California Wine with a French Style Memphis Menu

As I said in the previous post, I don't really drink much California wine anymore. Not because of poor quality at all but just because my passion lies elsewhere. However, Zaca Mesa is one of the few that get me going. It's so blatantly obvious that ZM looks to France for both inspiration & style. Their wines are beautifully balanced. Chef Ben at Napa Cafe looked to France as well when planning the menu to pair alongside the ZM wines.

The seared walu on the first course was perfectly prepared, super moist & worked so well with the rose & the melon. The sweetness of the melon & the tender fish brought out the fruit & texture of this super yummy pink wine.



Course two was a lovely surprise. I rarely eat chicken because of the multitude of poor preparations & because it seems so boring most times. This was not the case with this chicken. The skin was super crispy, like chicken "bacon", the meat was moist & very flavorful. The sauteed greens were earthy & had a sweet-savory element that was lovely. The viognier just sung alongside this dish. It had great weight but wasn't overly heavy, nice creamy texture but a bright acidity as well.

Two of my favorite things in the world are braised meat & bacon. Put them together & ....well...you get the idea. Braised shortribs with bacon aioli?? Seriously? I want more of this right now, it was rich & succulent & a great partner with the Z Cuvee. The savory -salty-creamy-sweetness of the aioli & the rich meat brought out the texture & spice in the wine. Awesome.

The finale had the other two of my favorite things: syrah & lamb. Now Wellington doesn't necessarily evoke thoughts of France but the technique & presentation did. The meaty-earthiness of the syrah mirrored the earthy flavors & textures of the lamb & the mushroom & the fennel. Absolutely knockout.



I'm constantly surprised by Napa Cafe's food. It's definitely one of the top tables in town.

Zaca Mesa Dinner at Napa Cafe

There are still seats left for the awesome dinner this Wednesday night (May 11) at Napa Cafe. For the full menu please click here.

It's no secret that I rarely speak about California wines. My passion just lies elsewhere. But make no mistake, when they are good they are really good. Zaca Mesa is an example of a winery that puts a lot of attention on balance. These are gorgeous wines that showcase sustainably farmed vineyards. Rhone style wines that are simply delicious. When matched with the exquisite cuisine of Napa Cafe its sure to be a night to remember. Only $55/person gets a stunningly delicious menu & beautiful wine pairings. Call now for reservations 901.683.0441. Seriously! Call now!

Alise Merritt with Zaca Mesa Winery

I had the pleasure of recently interviewing Alise Merritt with Zaca Mesa Winery. She will be the guest of Napa Cafe at their wine dinner with Zaca Mesa on Wednesday May 11. For more information about this outstanding opportunity to taste some wonderful wines alongside expertly prepared food click here.

When people ask you "What's a roussanne or viognier?" how do you respond to them?

"I generally say they are an “alternative white” and do my best to pour a splash in a glass for them to taste! Viognier is becoming more widely known. Roussanne is a beautiful wine that so many of us in the trade enjoy sharing this jewel with our friends and favorite wine customers – which usually have not ever heard of Roussanne. I’ll test the waters to see how much interest is shown and allow that to dictate how detailed I get in my explanation. Some just want to taste and enjoy while others may want to know where the name Roussanne originated. Which, btw, when the Roussanne grapes ripen they turn to a russet color (reddish brown) and “roux” is French for russet!"

Syrah, unfortunately, seems to be one of those grape varieties that ebbs & flows with trends. Zaca Mesa thankfully seems to ignore what trends say & just continues producing beautiful syrah. What do you see out in the market in response to your syrahs?

"It’s no surprise that when I meet with someone within the trade that loves Syrah and is enthusiastic, they are able share their passion and create a huge following. On the other hand, if I meet with someone that says they love Syrah but are unable to move it (restaurant, retail shop, wine club, etc.) or they might say their particular market “isn’t a Syrah market,” they are usually right. Regretfully Syrah may be the last one invited to the party but is often times the belle of the ball!"

Rhone & Rhone style wines are some of my favorite. Have you seen the thirst for these types of wine increase, remain steady or decrease over the course of your time with Zaca Mesa?

"People within our profession (Restaurant Owner, Sommelier, Retail Consultant, Food and Beverage professional, etc.) love Rhone style wines and in particular Syrah. We are quite passionate and are always trying to convert and enlighten those that will listen and take the time to taste these beautiful wines! Since blends have been one of the popular trends, I’ve seen an openness, willingness and thirst for our wines."

Zaca Mesa has been blessed with some very good critical acclaim & scores. Is that a double edged sword?

"Scores, accolades and acclaim are a great deal like life and we roll with it. We’ve discovered that in general Wine Spectator leans toward our Syrah, Wine Enthusiast our Whites and Robert Parker (no surprise) our blends and it shows in the scores. So there’s usually some kind of solid acclaim out there for our wine. We hope that people will use these as a guideline and allow their taste buds to be the judge as to whether or not they enjoy our wine!"

What's your latest favorite pairing with which Zaca Mesa wines?

"Wasabi covered almonds and our Viognier!"

Join Alise Merritt of Zaca Mesa Winery at Napa Cafe on Wednesday May 11 at 6:30 p.m. for a fun night of great wine & delicious food. Cost to attend is $55 per person plus tax & gratuity. For reservations please call 901.683.0441.

Memphis Wine & Food Series

For more information please click here

Cocktail Time

The warm weather is upon us & what better way to toast to it then with some hand-crafted cocktails! Here are a few recipes that we've been enjoying lately. All liquors are in stock now.

Spring Green

1 oz Thatcher’s Cucumber Organic Artisan Liqueur ($19.99)

3 oz Corsair Artisan Gin ($28.99)

½ oz lime juice

2 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters ($7.29)

Pour in an iced filled shaker, stir until chilled then pour into an iced highball glass, garnish with cucumber or lime peel or both



Red Agave

1 oz Thatcher’s Blood Orange Organic Artisan Liqueur ($19.99)

3 oz Milagro Reposado Tequila ($30.99)

1/2 oz of lemon juice

1 dash Peychaud’s Bitters ($7.99)

Pour in an iced filled shaker, shake until chilled, then pour into a chilled martini glass. Sprinkle with sea salt.



Euro Blanc

1/4 oz Luxardo Maraschino ($28.99)

2 oz Dolin Blanc Vermouth ($12.99)

1 dash Regan's Orange Bitters

squeeze of lemon

Dry Sparkling Wine (Segura Viudas Brut $9.99 or Zardetto Private Cuvee Brut $15.99 or Montaudon Brut Champagne $35.99)

Add first four ingredients to ice filled shaker, shake until chilled, pour into champagne flute or wine glass, top with sparkling wine or champagne. Garnish with lemon twist.

Wine Racists

I have wonderful customers, especially the wine club members. These people have no resistance to "going there" with me. Cotes du Rhone blanc? Sure! Washington State lemberger? Bring it! Corvina? Yes please!

I love that. Its what keeps me working so hard, helps fuel my passion, & quite frankly just thrills me.

But there is one thing that makes me cringe, makes me angry, & sends shockwaves of irritation throughout my body: Wine Racism

Wine Racism manifests itself in a few ways.

"I don't drink white wine. I only drink red."

"Uggh, I HATE riesling"

"Rose? eww isn't that, like, white zin or something?"

"I only drink white because all the sulfites in red wine give me a headache"

oh....my...god

Look, first & foremost I truly believe you should drink what you like but don't use that as an excuse to not explore other wines.

Open your minds a little & if you trust your retailer then listen to them. Ask questions, be inquisitive, take a chance.

But for the love of god DON'T BE A WINE RACIST!!!

Overheard At Easter Brunch

"good afternoon ma'am. Do you have a reservation?"

"No! But we are first on the wait list!"

"well ok ma'am. But do you have a reservation?"

"No! I said we are first on the WAITLIST!"

"well ok. I'll go get the hostess."

What in the hell is wrong with people? I truly believe that people should have to take a class on how to behave at a restaurant.

Andrew Will Winery Dinner at Napa Cafe

I wish Napa Cafe was closer to where I live because I would walk there on a weekly basis.

Chef Ben rocked out an absolutely delicious meal for a dinner with Chris Camarda of Andrew Will Winery. Chef is creative & engaged I definitely get the impression that he is always open & wanting to learn & experiment. Chris' wines are some of the most bold yet expressive & lingering wines I've ever tasted. Together the food & the wine sang a beautiful chorus. I had the pleasure of sitting with Chris & Robin Pollard, Executive Director of the Washington Wine Commission. We talked about everything from David Ramey to UC-Davis & Tuscan wine law. Those of you who missed it better start paying close attention to the events coming up in the next few months!



Course 1:Duo of Kumamoto Oysters. Honeysuckle & Mango, Coconut & Lime
paired with Cuvee Lucia Semillon Last In Line Vineyard 2009
&
Cuvee Lucia Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon Velvet Canyon 2009



These oysters were perfectly dressed with bright accompaniments. What the chef topped each one with was a playful take on mignonette. The oysters were never overshadowed, just enhanced. Both wines were brightly acidic with citrus notes, and an especially lanolin like quality in the blend. Absolutely one of the best starts to a meal I've ever had.

Course 2: Handmade Potato Gnocchi with a Tomato Portugaise Sauce
paired with Cuvee Lucia Sangiovese Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2008.

The gnocchi were crisp on the outside & pillowy-creamy on the inside. The sauce played off the acidity & herbaceous qualities of the sangiovese quite nicely. I'm always shocked by how traditional Italian varietals come across from Washington. They shine with beauty.


Course 3: Duck Confit, Delta Grind Polenta, Wild Game Sauce
paired with Champoux Vineyard 2006




I love love love duck. Absolutely adore it. This confit was rich & unctuous which led into the rich, creamy polenta & the earthy suace. It was a little salty but not too overpowering. The red blend from Champoux Vineyard was a lesson in balance. Fruit was there, weight & texture were there, tannins were present & everything was tied together by the acidity.

Course 4: Tea rubbed Lamb Loin, Sunburst Squash, Candy Stripe Beets, Natural Jus
paired with Annie Camarda, May's Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Wow, this pairing was out of control. The tea & earthiness really matched up well with the grip & tannin of the cab. The acidity cut through the lamb so perfectly. A new flavor was created in my mouth. Excellent.

Course 5: Harris Ranch Beef Tenderloin, Wild Mushrooms, Red Wine Sauce
paired with Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2005 & 2006

I don't like tenderloin. It's too soft, no texture, almost flaccid. However, this came out with some nice toothsomeness to it. It was cooked to a perfect medium & was livened up with the earthy mushrooms & bold red wine sauce. The wines were.....perfection. I can't really describe them because I "felt" them more than "tasted" them. They were the kind of wines that made me close my eyes & lose grip on my surroundings for just a moment.

Napa Cafe knows how to do it. Their food is delicious, their wine list is super cool & unique & the service is comfortable yet professional. If you haven't been in awhile you need to go back immediately. If you've never been....well what the hell is wrong with you??!

One last thing. Even though the event was great I was disappointed in the attendance. The smaller crowd made it intimate which is always nice but I wish more people would have gotten on board with this. We as a city need to support our independent restaurants because they are the ones doing the unique events such as this. They are the ones taking risks & keeping true to their passion. They are the ones hosting world class wine makers from around the country & around the world. Yet for some odd reason, they don't get the press. There was a very short & completely bland one or two sentences in the newspaper about the dinner. Nothing talking about how Chris Camarda makes less than 5000 cases a year & produces some of the most sought after wines in the market. Nothing about how down to earth, driven & intelligent he is. Certainly nothing about how Napa Cafe was pulling out all the stops for this event. Yes they used twitter, facebook & email. But if we are truly going to elevate our city to the world culinary stage we as a food loving community need to stop talking about chain restaurants & how expensive a bag of chips are & start talking about what our very own food & wine loving independent restaurants are doing.

Chris Camarda of Andrew Will Winery

I had the pleasure of doing a little email interview with Chris Camarda, the brilliant winemaker/owner of Andrew Will Winery. Join us at Napa Cafe on Monday April 11 for a wine dinner with Chris & his amazing wines. More information here.


What is it like being thought of as one of the best wineries in America? What drawbacks are there if any?

"Notoriety is good for sales especially when you are from Washington. I would prefer that people are talking about Washington and not me. No drawbacks"

What is one of the most recent food pairings you had with one of your wines that just blew your mind?

"At my home we had 2007 sorella with a prime rib purchased form Bryan Flannery."

In Memphis we industry professionals don't seem to get as much as hesitation from consumers regarding Washington wines as we did even 5 years ago. Are you seeing that industry wide in other markets as well?

"The place. Washington State.We are starting to get into people’s minds. They are starting to realize that we can produce very fine and even great wines. The challenge is to create a psychology that competes with Bordeaux’s. We already know that we are over all a superior place to grow fruit. Getting others to even contemplate the possibility is a great hurdle. Of the 2500 to 3000 Chateau in Bordeaux only a few hundred are producing wines worth looking for. In Washington we thousands and thousands of acres that can produce wines which can compete with the 250 top Bordeaux ch if the winemakers are up to it."