Can't Live Without (culinary edition)

Things I can't live without:

1. Henckels Santoku Chef's Knife
2. Butcher Block cutting board
3. Garlic
4. Champagne/Sparkling Wine
5. Syrah
6. Red cast-iron Dutch Oven
7. Olive Oil
8. Spiegelau wine glasses
9. Chefmate wine fridge
10. Onions
11. Stainless steel skillet
12. Cheese
13. Chocolate
14. Pomegranate Molasses
15. Vinegar (balsamic, red wine, etc.)
    
16. Tokaji
17. Puff pastry
18. Dried cherries
19. Beef
20. Lamb
21. Duck
22. Scallops
23. Clams
24. Saffron
25. Rice
26. Maldon Sea Salt
27. Tuna
28. Nuts
29. Chateauneuf-du Pape
30. Gas Stove

This list could go on and on, but I think it's starting to get out of control.

What can't you live without?

Family Dinner pt 2.

Angela and Mick came over for dinner Sunday night. I decided that a mix of fussy and comfort was in order. We hadn't seen them in 3 years so I thought that something special was just right. I began by making a paste of fresh thyme, fresh garlic, olive oil, Au Bon Climat Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir, salt & pepper. I took this paste and rubbed it all over 2 beautiful NY Strip Steaks, letting them sit for over 2 hours. With the steaks, I prepared a dutch oven full of fresh cauliflower, onion, garlic, thyme, cream, white wine and stock. This casserole roasted away for roughly an hour. Next was the salad, simple one of fresh baby spinach and a balsamic-pomegranate vinaigrette.

Kelly had just purchased a new tv and rug for the living room, so we obviously were waiting to show that off.

They arrived, finally. We quickly realized that it had been almost 3 years since we had seen each other last. Instantly we vowed never to let that much time pass before getting together again. I had a small cheese and olive plate prepared to snack on while dinner was being prepared. Two of my favorite cheeses, Croutin du Chavignol (an aged mold ripened french goat cheese) and young Manchego ( a Spanish sheep's milk cheese) and mixed Italian olives were the snack. Both the cheeses and the olives paired wonderfully with the Alfred Gratien NV Epernay Champagne that we popped open. The creamy mousse of the Champagne and its crispness paired beautifully with the cheeses. The salty olives elevated the fruit in the bubbly.

After pulling the steaks off the grill and slicing them up, beautifully rare, it was time for dinner. The cauliflower was tender and rich, a perfect contrast to the earthiness of the beef. With it we drank a bottle of 1999 Selvamaggio Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany. Seek this bottle out, Neil Empson Selections.

Dessert was a puff pastry tartlet filled with roasted pears, Bleu d'Auvergne cheese, toasted walnuts and honey. My theory was that it would pair perfectly with a late Harvest Muscat from Foris. My theory proved correct, the honeyed nectar-like sweetness was a perfect match for the pairs and contrasted the saltiness of the cheese. The acidity in the wine cut right through the richness of the cheese as well. Even Kelly liked it and he despises dessert wines. All the more for me.

All in all it was a lovely evening. I can't wait to see Angela and Mick again. I missed how Angela can laugh so hard that she makes herself cry. The food and wine was a catalyst for the laughter.

Family Dinner

Kelly has invited some friends over for dinner this Sunday and I'm contemplating what to cook. Sometimes I attempt something a bit elaborate and fussy, but this time I think it will be different. It's finally winter, my favorite season, and this season makes me want to prepare meals that wrap themselves around you. Sometimes elaborate food is no match for the warmth and comfort of a roast chicken with crisp and tender oven kissed vegetables. The whole process is enlivening. From the readying of the chicken for the oven, to the scents that drive spikes of memory into my entire being, to the succulent end product. Nothing says welcome to my home better than that.

The Dance

I've just returned from seeing a performance by Ballet Memphis. They are some of the most talented and inspiring artists I've ever seen. We are truly lucky to have creativity of this caliber in our city. What does dance have to do with wine and food? Well, creativity in every realm inspires us to think greater things and to think more creatively in our own industry. Sitting there watching these beautiful bodies sculpt a piece of art through movement inspired me to think of wine in many different ways. It made me think of the the ballet that winemakers dance with their grapes when creating a cuvee. It made me think of the dance that wine performs with food. And it made me think of how moved I can be by a truly special bottle of wine.

I will continue to support Ballet Memphis and I hope that the rest of the city of Memphis does as well. Cheers!

Umai

Just got back from a great meal at Umai, the new asian-french fusion restaurant in the old On Teur space on Madison Ave. I searched for their website but I guess they do not have one. The space is cool and hip in a Japanese grafitti/New York vibe kind of way. The music was way too loud but it's Midtown so I guess that's expected. My friend Jeff and I split the Spinach Gyoza stuffed with a mushroom duxelle, the poached cod over choi sam in carrot curry broth and the lobster dumplings. The standout was without a doubt the Gyoza. They were moist and just firm enough with a big mushroom flavor that was cut with soy. Perfectly done. The cod was buttery and an excellent contrast to the char on the choi sam and the spice in the curry broth. The carrot's sweetness wonderfully counterbalanced the heat in the curry. The wine list was small but nicely complimented the menu and decor. Prices were good and so were the portions. Not too big not too small. They got busy towards the end of our meal, which was nice to see. Everything about this place, from the asian newspaper wallpaper in the bathroom to the warm wood bar tables and bamboo wall design, makes me want it to succeed. Check it out!

Language

I'm watching "Mondovino" for what seems like the 15th time. This documentary is absolutely enthralling, moving, informative and entertaining. However, for some reason my subtitles aren't working so I have to watch it without. Most of the movie is in either French or Italian. But there is something about wine that transcends language. Yes I may not understand what these people are saying but I can feel what they are trying to convey. The scenery is incredible, the passion of these people is palpable. Why is it that grapes can only be grown in the most beautiful places in the world? Wine isn't just a beverage it's a food, it isn't just a food it's a philosophy. With that philosophy we can bridge differences in culture and language. I truly believe that wine and food is one of the most powerful forces on earth.

Keep to yourself

I just got back from a pretty rough dining experience. Kelly and I went to Bari for a nice Italian meal. Bari is always wonderful and I will continue to go there. However, we neglected to ask to be sat in the non-obnoxious asshole section. Not 10 minutes into our dinner we were already annoyed by how loud and grating the table next to us was. These grown adults (all above 60, or at least looked it) behaved like children. One nasty little fur-laden lady yipped about an experience at the plastic surgeon (she obviously ordered the wrong procedure) before launching into how to cheat the political primaries. Across the table her dining partner went on and on about dressing his daugther up like a tramp for some dance number they were to perform in front of his friends. Ick. They then followed us into the bar (where we attempted to escape them) and continued to terrorize us and the poor innocent bar patrons. Two women actually left the bar to sit outside in the cold while they finished their wine, just to escape these excruciating individuals. Uggh.

The moral of this story is keep to yourself when dining out. Don't allow your bullshit to spill over to other tables.

Beautiful Night, Beautiful Bounty

It's the holidays, time for indulgence. I pulled up to Sabrina's with two bottles of wine and a cauliflower gratin. My contributions were a Non-vintage Guy Larmandier Rose Brut and a 1993 Tokay Aszu 5 Puttonyos. Sabrina had already opened a 1995 Gruet Blanc de Blanc and a 2003 Wehlener Sonnenur Riesling Kabinett from SA Prum. Joining us were Alan and Susanna, Patrick and Tara, Hilary, Jossiene, Eric and Marc. We nibbled on Smoked Coho, King and Keta Salmon all pairing beautifully with the acidity and toastiness of the Gruet. Next we popped the Guy Larmandier. The beautiful aroma carried dried raspberries, biscuit and slate with a bracing acidity that cut through the richness of salmon AND hummus. Jossiene has been tutoring me in properly pronouncing French. She is from the Juras region of France but has lived here in the States for many years. After successfully pronouncing the Champagne label Sabrina looked at Patrick and said "We won't be able to work with him from now on". I am bad at correcting people. . .I guess. Eric pulled the leg of lamb off the grill to rest as we sat down to the table and surveyed the other bottles. Patrick and Tara provided a 1996 Chateau La Cardone Haut-Medoc (which oddly enough was predominantly Merlot), Alan and Susanna brought a 2000 Andre Brunel Les Sambiches Cotes-du-Rhone Villages, our good friend Brett (who wasn't present) gave us a 2004 Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Rouge AND a 2003 Treana Rouge, Sabrina whisked out of her cellar a 1995 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino and a 2005 Renwood Amador Ice Zinfandel. What a lineup!

We began with the Tablas Creek, it gave off aromas of cranberry and pomegranate and light smoke. On the palate the acid was bright but the alcohol was high. Maybe if we gave the bottle a bit more time to air the alcohol would have dissipated somewhat. The Treana, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah, was big, full-bodied and packed with berry jam. The nose had cocoa, blackberries and light earth. On the palate I tasted coffee, blackberry and chocolate covered raspberries that were carried by heavy tannins. The Andre Brunel delivered heavy aromas of earth, fennel, and dark stone influenced fruit. These aromas carried over to the palate (god bless old world wines) and screamed out for the lamb.

Hitting their stride, the old world wines of the lineup got better and better. The Argiano 1995 Brunello di Montalcino gave forth barnyard, cranberry, sage and lavender on the nose. The flavors of leather, dried red cherry, and dried herbs paired well with the lamb. Each bite and sip combined into one new, dare I say transcendent, flavor. The 1996 Chateau la Cardone Haut Medoc had a nose of cigar box, cedar, dried meat and dried berries with a rich luscious finish. The palate displayed earth, graphite and vibrant tannins that lingered and lingered.

All of these wines were so amazing, rare, beautiful and engaging. They paired wonderfully all of the dishes: cauliflower gratin with cream, garlic and gruyere; sweet potato puree with rosemary; and a lovely, earthy roasted lamb studded with garlic.

After dinner we had a glorious spread of artisanal cheeses such as Cabrales (Spain), Roaring 40's (Australia) and Humboldt Fog (California). The cheeses aided in showcasing the 1993 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos from Hungary. This wine was liquid sun with layers of honey, dates, caramelized sugar, flowers. . .the list goes on. It took me some time to get over just smelling it much less tasting it. The texture and acidity carried the cheese and lifted them all to another level.

As if that wasn't enough, Sabrina had prepared an espresso tart to pair with a 2005 Renwood Amador Ice Zinfandel. This cryoextracted dessert zinfandel had acid and fruit which not only cut through the richness of the tart but also amplified the smokiness of the espresso.

This meal will absolutely go down as one of the most outstanding, exceptional dinners I've ever had. I've always felt that when you get good friends together that is the basis for everything. Everything after that is icing. The food and wine held flavors that I've never experienced before.

My friends helped me taste them.

Away

As much as I'm glad to be in Memphis spending Christmas with Kelly and our dogs, I do wish I was in Indiana with my family. By now, my parents and I would have been headlong into our first bottle of Tempranillo. It would have been nice to watch my niece tear open her presents. It's okay. I'll see them in a few weeks.

Dec/Jan article

Check out my new article in the Lamplighter: www.cooperyoung.org/lamplighter.asp.

Sorry about the lack of a link. Something is not working.

Sunday Dinner

Sundays, as I've said before, are my days to cook. I try to do something special, not outrageous, just full of love, flavor and care. In the process of creation, I'm always paying attention to how the meal will pair with wine. What wine will go best? What flavors should I add to the dish to mirror/contrast the wine?

Recently, I had the urge to cook some duck. There were two wines I had in mind for this dish. The first was a 2004 Savigny-Les-Beaune from Joseph Drouhin. This wine has a light ruby color, elevated (but not overpowering) acidity, a gorgeous array of earth, and soft fruit profile. The second was a 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva from Luiano. The bright acidity (typical of Sangiovese), medium-full body, and berry-fruit characteristics seemed perfect for duck.

I marinated the duck legs in a dash of soy, red wine, pepper, garlic and a dash of pomegranate molasses. After a few hours of marinating, I laid them on a baking sheet and roasted them in the oven. While they were roasting I prepared some red rice, english pea pods, and a dried cherry sauce with red wine, balsamic vinegar, shallots and a dash of pomegranate molasses to mirror the marinade.

Finally it was time to test my wine theory. The acidity of the red burgundy cut through the richness of the duck, the fruit and the acid in the wine mirrored the dried cherry sauce, and the earthiness popped out to go with the gamy quality of the duck. Delicious.

Unfortunately, I couldn't test my theory about the Chianti. It was corked. Oh well, I'll just have to try it again!

Certified

I did it! I actually did it! I am officially a Certified Sommelier! On November 13th I successfully passed the Court of Master Sommelier's Certified Sommelier Exam. It was unbelievably difficult, but I pulled it off. This can only lead to bigger and better things. Even though it takes a few years for new vines to produce quality grapes, the world of wine changes at a rapid pace. There are new wines and new wine regions emerging on a regular basis. It's a pleasure to keep up.

Sonoma-The 30th Birthday

So Sorry that I haven't posted in FOREVER, but I've been spending all my spare time studying for the Certified Sommelier Exam. More on that later, back to Wine Country . . .Kelly and I have been to Northern California wine country before, mainly Napa. However, I've always been a HUGE fan of Sonoma wines. Therefore, I wanted to focus this trip on Sonoma; specifically the Russian River AVA and Dry Creek AVA. The Russian River Pinots are beautiful and silky, the Dry Creek Zinfandels are powerful and luscious. We headed north out of San Francisco with the top down on our Mustang convertible; the sun beating down and the ocean breeze cooling us off. We popped in the audio cd "Napa Uncorked" narrated by David Hyde Pierce, pick this up for your next trip to Northern California. I did want to stop by Failla in St. Helena to check out what Turley's winemaker, Ehren Jordan, was up to at his new winery. There was an unfortunate miscommunication between us and the winery so we missed our appointment. Oh well, since we were in Napa I wanted to check out Cliff Lede in the Stag's Leap District. I've heard so much about their S. Anderson sparkling wines that I had to try them for myself. The tasting room was warm and luscious with wood and granite and large windows to stream in light. I was pleasantly surprised by their Petite Sirah (one of my favorite varietals). It was dark, rich, bold and filled with black fruits with big tannin. Yet it wasn't overpowering and jarring the way an overextracted Aussie Shiraz can be. Next up was what I came for, the S. Anderson bubbly. I tasted the 2000 Brut and the 1999 Blanc de Blancs, both were outstanding. The Brut was crisp and mineral-filled with bright citrus peel and biscuit aromas. The Blanc de Blancs had apple, pear, white peach and limestone aromas. We left with a bottle of the 2004 Petite Sirah and the 2000 Brut Rose. Onward . . .

We headed out of the Stag's Leap District toward Santa Rosa in search of Siduri. If you haven't experienced Siduri wines (and they are an "experience"), I implore you to go immediately to your favorite wine shop and buy a bottle of their wine. They produce only Pinot Noir (their sister winery, Novy, which is housed in the same facility produces Syrah, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and sometimes Pinot Meunier). The winemaking facility is in a warehouse park just outside of the Charles Schultz airport in Santa Rosa. It is very minimalist, no bells and whistles here. Obviously they focus all their energy on what goes in the bottle, rather than how to showcase it. What's inside the bottle is awe-inspiring. Their Pinots aren't cheap, but they are worth every penny (and I rarely say that). Some highlights were the 2005 Russian River (even being so young it was drinking beautifully), and the 2005 Rosella's Vineyard (which was luscious but needed some bottle time. Jill Kennedy, the National Sales Manager, led us through the facility showing us the incoming grapes, the hopper, fermenting bins and the barrel room. We also had the pleasure of tasting, from barrel, the 2005 Novy Christensen Family Syrah, Gary's Vineyard Syrah, and Rosella's Vineyard Syrah. They were all amazing, each with their own terroir, simply beautiful. The Christensen was my favorite, with supple tannins, blackberry fruit, rosemary aromas, and a long finish. Even in barrel it was showing signs of how amazing it will be. The Siduri experience was amazing.

I'm 30, why not?

To celebrate my 30th birthday, my partner Kelly and I decided (well, I really decided) to take a trip out to the beautiful Sonoma Valley. Being in the business I was able to set up a few appointments with wineries beforehand. After a smooth 4 1/2 hour flight from Memphis we landed in San Francisco, a former home of mine. Our friend Cori picked us up from the airport and whisked us into the city. We had the whole day before us to play around in the city. We went down to the Ferry Building Marketplace (a must for any foodie) and had some wine at the Winebar. Service was kind of "ehh" but the wine was good. I almost purchased a bottle of Vega Sicilia's second label but the alcohol was a bit too high for a Spanish wine. I was concerned that it would be hot. We left the Ferry Building and walked towards Union Square. We then stopped at First Crush. This delightful little wine bar was beautifully stylized and had a lovely menu. Our server had been to Memphis and I recognized her (small world). After the recognition our server proceeded to shower us with wine and food. You've got to check this place out when in SF. Cori had to work the next morning so she bowed out at this point. We regrouped back at her and her husband's apartment in Noe Valley, and then Kelly and I went back out on the town. We found an amazing little place called Hotel Biron. Located in an alley behind the Zuni Cafe (which we had dinner at later in the week, I'll get to that), Hotel Biron looks like it belongs in Barcelona or Prague. It's very minimal and sleek, not to mention miniscule, and so very comfortable. With a wine list to die for (kudos to whomever put it together) and a small menu of cheeses and charcuterie, it had everything we were looking for. Kelly and I split a bottle of 1997 Calera Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir. The wine displayed gamey aromas of dried leather, dark earth, licorice and dried cherry. It had aged gracefully into a structured wine with black cherry, tea and espresso on the palate. Lovely!

We'll continue northward to Sonoma......

Lamplighter

Check out my new column in the Lamplighter newspaper. Go to: www.cooperyoung.org and click on Lamplighter.

We're back

Kelly and I just returned from Sonoma. I will be posting soon about our amaaaaaaaaaaaaaazing trip.

My Birthday Trip

Kelly and I are leaving for California on Sunday!!!!! We are staying in San Francisco Sunday night, and driving up to Sonoma on Monday. I'll be posting after the trip.

Lyrical Cuisine Pt. 2

As I said before, I love putting on some great music to cook to. But sometimes there is nothing more I need than the beautiful sound of a meal. It is a soundtrack unto itself. The slice of the knife through garlic and onion, the crunch of fresh celery, the sizzle of a piece of fish in olive oil.

The most beautiful noise in the world is my kitchen.

5 Things to Eat Before You Die

I've recently been tagged (by Colin over at memphiswineevents.blogspot.com and see-sip-taste-hear.blogspot.com, check 'em out) to list my top 5 Things To Eat Before You Die.

Here's mine:

1. Blowfish (isn't that the fish that could kill you if not prepared properly?0
2. My grandmother's Saltenas. Ta (that's what we called her growing up) would make these South American beef and vegetable pies about a day or two in advance. She made the dough from scratch and marinated the beef for a day. You haven't lived until you tasted these. My mom does an excellent job preparing these as well.
3. Tapas in a Barcelona bar. When I was over there we would pop into a bar around 6 and they would usually have plates of snacks on the bar to munch on. Usually, the snacks would be octopus, various jamons, olives, etc. The perfect accompaniment to the lovely carafes of Spanish wine we would indulge in.
4. Fresh grapes picked right off the vine.
5. Fresh scallops harvested right out of the ocean.

Save the leftovers

I've found that it always helps to evaluate what can be saved from a meal. Case in point, I braised some lovely beef short ribs (purchased at the farmer's market!) in red wine, beef stock, onion, garlic, dried thyme and rosemary. After about 8 hours of braising, I pulled the short ribs out and let them cool. After cooling, I pulled the meat off the bone. I sliced some potatoes very thinly and fried them, and topped the chips with the beef, and topped that with a fresh horseradish-garlic marscapone cream. Yum. In the pot I had a LOT of leftover braising liquid. I strained the liquid and reduced that down to about 1 1/2 cups. The short ribs on fresh chips was delicious and paired perfectly with a bottle of Baron Phillipe de Rothschild Escudo Rojo from Argentina. Awesome.

The week after, Kelly and I got together with our friends Max and Marlinee for dinner. I prepared a spice crusted pork loin and served it over the reduced wine sauce. I'm so glad I saved that sauce, it went well with the pork. And it went perfectly with a bottle of 2001 Coturri Jewell Vineyards Sonoma Mountain Pinot Noir. The high acidity and bold cherry fruit of the wine complemented the spice crust on the pork.

P.S. Sorry I haven't blogged lately. I'm working on my birthday trip to the Russian River!