Encore, in the heat of the Summer

I feel so bad for employees of restaurants whose a/c is on the fritz in the DEAD of Memphis summer. Kelly & I enjoyed an evening out at Encore with our friends Jennifer & Charlie Lowe. It was a bit stuffy due to the troubled a/c. Needless to say we were sucking down ice water like crazy. In the past I had been very, very disappointed by the wine selections at Encore but this time I was pleased to find some interesting quality selections. It seems as though they are paying more attention to the wine selections which is nice to see. I had a glass of 2006 Kracher Pinot Gris from Austria, an outstanding thirst quencher in the sticky heat. Jen had the lobster stuffed scallops that were succulent & delicious. Kelly dined on the mushroom ravioli which he absolutely loved as well as the blood orange cocktail. "I could drink 3 of these!" he said. My dishes were very good as well. I enjoyed the crab & lobster corn chowder, much to the amazement of my dining companions. "It's summer!" I love soup so I don't care what season it is. My next dish was the tuna tartare on potato gallettes with wasabi aioli. All of which were fantastic.

Washington State Continues to Blow My Mind

Richie & I watched a video project about the history of the Washington State wine growing regions on Tuesday. Of course we had to drink some WA state wines. Both of us are big fans of WA syrah & we both believe that grape is the star of WA (along with merlot). Richie was kind enough to pop open his 2002 McCrea Cellars Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah while I brought along my 2004 SYZYGY Columbia Valley Syrah. We decanted both knowing that they both were brawny & needed a little development time. The SYZYGY had a spicy, smoky, meaty aroma mixed with blueberry & blackberry jam. On the palate were flavors of pomegranante, blueberry, smoke, clove & fennel. The McCrea was a bit odd & closed down at first & seemed hot. After 10 - 15 minutes in the decanter it blossomed into a "iron fist in a velvet glove". It had power but didn't hammer away at my palate, more like caressed it. The texture was sensual & velvety with flavors of dried game meat, dried blueberry, black cherry jam & smoke. The finish sailed on & on & on......& on. Over 3 hours both wines continued to develop & never seemed to let up. That is a true testament to the quality & aging potential of a great WA state wine.

Lachini Pinot Gris 2007

Wow. I have been a fan of Lachini wines for some time now & I always look forward to trying something from them that I haven't had or haven't had in awhile. The 2007 pinot gris was just released, therefore you should find it out in the Memphis market. Obviously, I got my bottle at Joe's in Midtown. The first thing I noticed was the vinolok enclosure. Glass stoppers are not only esthetically pleasing but they also serve their purpose. Much better than cork & in a prettier fashion than screwcaps. The wine's color is this sleek silver tone. On the nose I found aromas of apricot, white peach & chalk. The palate is round, supple, bouncing with acidity & very full...but not overtly heavy & in no way flabby. Try this bad boy out, it is one of those perfect summer wines!

Blinded by the Wine

In typical fashion, last night's blind tasting was humbling for its participants. Every time we blind taste we always say how we need to do it more often. I chose the theme & wines this time, so I didn't get to fully participate. I wanted to pick a lineup that would be of good quality & maybe a little unexpected without being too esoteric.

The reveal:

1. Piazzano Rio Camerata 2005 Chianti $17.99
   
2. Colognole 2003 Chianti Rufina $17.99
   
3. La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005 Abruzzo $17.99
   
4. River Aerie Sangiovese 2006 Columbia Valley, WA $19.99
5. Coldisole Brunello di Montalcino 2001 Montalcino $64.99

As you can see, my theme was sangiovese. I threw the montepulciano in there because it is related to sangiovese, a quite close relative actually. To me it would have been a ringer or melded in perfectly. Thankfully it was the latter. I was surprised at the River Aerie, I've enjoyed it in the past but up against the Italians it just fell flat & had almost no personality. The quality was there but it "didn't speak of its place" as everyone quite poignantly pointed out. Everyone seemed to be going towards the Rhone throughout the tasting. Once I poured the Brunello it shored that hypothesis up for everyone even more because of the its heavy brett barnyardiness. They were quite surprised to see that they were all sangiovese instead. That Coldisole was sooooo deliciously dark, rich, vibrant & complex. It is worth every penny, truly.

This goes to show that you may think you know a grape but tasting blind will make you realize that you don't.

Worth a thousand words

This pic is from our latest trip to New York. I saw this sign at the Union Square Greenmarket. Enough said.

Sunday Dinner

Last night Kelly & I had a lovely dinner at Kristi & Warner's house. To start the evening we had these interesting little things to the right which are wild hibiscus flowers in hibiscus syrup. We dropped a flower & a little syrup into the bottom of champagne flutes & filled them up with Louis Perdrier Rose Brut NV sparkling wine from France. Both the flowers & the bubbly were a gift from our friends Justin & Amy (thanks Justin & Amy!) The syrup just slightly sweetened the bubbly enough to be refreshing & fruity. The flowers themselves had the consistency of dried fruit or fruit roll ups. They are a bit addictive once you've popped one in your mouth. Next we had a bottle of Smith Madrone Riesling 2005 Spring Mountain, Napa Valley. I've been curious how this wine has developed over the years. When I first had it the wine was linear & bright with lots of acidity & peach, meyer lemon flavors. This bottle could have been aged for another few years! It was still very bright with notes of slate & dried lemon & lots of vibrant acidity. We enjoyed a salad that the lovely Mez brought over of spinach, strawberries, almonds, red onion, dried cranberries & blueberries, Laura Chenel Herb Chevre & an organic raspberry vinaigrette. It was perfectly fresh, light & delicious. Kristi's main course consisted of tamarind marinated

shrimp with brown jasmine rice, fresh peppers, celery, onions & garlic in a coconut ginger broth. The dish had a mild heat with a creamy texture & super aromatic spice....Yummmmmm! Our next bottle of wine was Torre Muga 1998 Rioja, yet another bottle I've been curious about. Obviously I've been cellaring this one almost too well because of its youthful weight & texture. It was still bold & dark & had only slightly softened from the first time I had it years ago. It was at first very new world in style with dark ripe fruit on the nose & palate that spread out & became earthy & spicy. What a hell of a finish on this thing, Wow! This wine could have lasted another 3-5 years at least even though it was oh so delicious now.
For dessert Kristi grilled fresh peaches with rosemary & salt & topped them with vanilla cream & balsamic vinegar. The balsamic was a perfect touch adding a tangy sweetness to the luscious texture of the fruit & cream. That was fun!

Good good pinot

I love a good pinot noir. I haven't been drinking much of it lately due to both price escalation & a kind of boredom of the varietal. It seems we are inundated with pinot after pinot, a veritable sea of bland juice. But there are still many great wines made from this so-called "heartbreak" grape. Case in point, Siduri Sonoma Coast 2006. At $30 a bottle this isn't necessarily an inexpensive wine but then again, its all relative. Not to mention that you get what you pay for. Good wine is like good food, sometimes it costs a bit but almost always its worth it.

The first thing I noticed about this wine is its elegantly translucent color. Some people might call it pale, especially compared to the hedonistic ripe fruit bombs of Santa Lucia Highlands or Sta Rita Hills. There is a smoky sultry quality on the nose, but still dialed back enough that it isn't overwhelming. The nose gives aromas of dark cherry, smoke, cardamom & hints of tea & earth. When the first sip of a wine makes me close my eyes & blocks out my surroundings, wow! That speaks volumes. The palate shows a sensually silky texture, a round smoothness, acidity that is just bright enough to elevate the strawberry, black cherry & cola flavors. This is a truly exceptional wine that is drinking surprisingly well for its youth. Drink up!

Rose Rose Rose!

Check out my new vlog. Lee Gordon produced this using his incredible talents. Thanks Lee!

The end of a vineyard

I'm sipping on one of the most stunning white wines ever produced. I've had the Stadt Krems Sandgrube Gruner Veltliner 2006 Kremstal, Austria many times, but it just never ceases to truly amaze me. This pure, concentrated, ripe white has layers of white pepper spice, peach, apricot, minerality & acidity. It is simply stunning. Which makes it all the more tragic that the Sandgrube vineyard in Kremstal was obliterated by hail in late 2007. The vineyard has been replanted but it won't be producing for at least another 5 years. But how can these newly planted vines ever reproduce the magic that the old vines so liberally displayed? Each sip of this sublime wine almost makes me cry thinking of how I'm drinking history & helping this beautiful thing along to extinction. But its too delicious to stop.

New Tasting Menu

Restaurant Iris has changed their tasting menu & it is absolutely delicious! Chef Kelly English continues to prove that he is one of the most talented chefs in Memphis. To be honest, I just returned from Manhattan & I think he is just as talented as anyone working up their now. He has a way with ingredients that showcases & emphasizes their simple purity while also putting his stamp on them... in an elegantly delicious way. The new tasting or "degustation" menu has a bright tomato "caprese"-style salad with fresh local tomatoes marinated in sherry vinegar, house made mozzarella & balsamic syrup. Jeffrey Frisby has paired this course with a sauvignon blanc from the Stellenbosch district of South Africa. The next course is a foie gras terrine with watermelon pickles. Then they are offering a scallop "latte" in a creamy, savory truffle broth. The main course is a lamb loin with a vin cotto glaze, grilled peaches with feta & a parsley pursulade (sp?)

Restaurant Iris is a welcome addition to the Memphis dining scene that is sure to continue to wow us in a comfortable & elegant fashion.

New Blog

Check out my friend Justin's blog here.

Graham Beck

While Kelly & I were in NYC recently we stopped by the wine bar Xai Xai in Midtown Manhattan. I was intrigued by it after seeing it profiled on Wine Spectator in a video with James Molesworth. When we stopped by, it was a Wednesday around 5 p.m. & there was only one other couple there. I ordered a glass of the Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2006 for Kelly & a glass of the Graham Beck Brut for myself. The bubbly was classically styled, with toasty notes, a creamy texture, beautiful beading & a round texture. It was a perfect example of South African winemaking. That region is producing wines that straddle the gap between the Old World & New. I don't believe this winery is available in Memphis, but hopefully it will be very soon.

Meat & Vegetables

This weekend I had two excellent meals that really stood out not only for their excellent quality but also for their polar opposition in the same genre. The first was at our friends Justin & Amy's house. Justin is an amaaaaazing cook who just so happens to be a vegetarian. As we walked in the door, Amy poured us a cherry-basil mojito (she is a master mixologist!) that was perfectly minty, sweet & refreshing with just an undertone of basil. Justin had prepared a mexican spread like no other: grilled corn with vegan mayonnaise, parmiggiano, chile & lime; quesadillas with cheese & vegan chorizo; black bean tamales & a spread of different salsas. The meal was outstandingly delicious, full of a variety of different bright flavors & just that right amount of heat which paired well with a 2006 Chateau Marouine Cotes de Provence rose & 2006 River Aerie Malbec, Columbia Valley. Justin just amazes me every time he prepares a meal for us. I am a without a doubt a meat lover, even though I don't eat it often, but I never...ever leave his dining room feeling unsatisfied in anyway. Hell, after this meal I was so stuffed I couldn't finish dessert!

The second meal was also Mexican in style & theme. Our friend Kristy's birthday was Saturday, in honor of the special day she & her husband Jeff had a mexican fiesta. Nice sombrero Jeff! First of all, the margaritas were fabulous. There is just nothing like a fresh margarita, it was obvious that they had gone through the trouble of juicing fresh limes instead of using a mix. Outstanding!! The dish that stood out to me the most was the goat. I have never had goat before so I was extremely curious. Kristy gets the meat from a farm in Iowa (I'm pretty sure she said Iowa) that humanely raises its livestock & uses no chemicals, hormones, etc. Jeff prepared the goat in a dark sauce laced with chilis, cumin & I'm not sure what else. The goat was succulent & tender & just melted on my tongue. The sauce had a smoky heat as opposed to a spicy heat that savory-sweet at the same time. I must say that I would definitely try goat again.......as long as Jeff is preparing it! HAPPY BIRTHDAY KRISTY!!!!!

Wine Tasting

This just in:

Joe's Wines next big tasting will be held at the Vine, 1819 Madison on Thursday June 26th, 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Cost to attend is $35 per person. They will be pouring a selection of wines from around the world, with each station focusing on a particular region (Austria, Washington, California, etc....) If you would like to purchase tickets, please stop in the store, 1681 Poplar or call 901.725.4252. With gas prices so high, why not skip your vacation & come to a wine tasting instead?

Post Vacation Depression

We just returned from NYC on Saturday & reality has set in. We are already planning our return, I'm planning my return to Morrell (to stock up on more incredible bottles & to converse with the lovely Harriet) & Kelly is planning our move to the city. Seriously, he wants to live there. I had hoped to do a bit more shopping for some boots & jeans but it just didn't work out that way. Instead, I spent my shopping budget entirely on wine but hey that was my plan anyway! We ended shopping only a little bit....but eating & drinking a LOT! We found a few lovely little wine bars:

• Morrell Wine Bar: This cozy but beautiful locale was next door to one of the best wine shops I've ever been to. It had an extensive wine list & a menu of small plates perfect for sharing. We had a few glasses of rose (Kelly's was from Provence, mine was from Bandol) & a plate of charcuterie. The bar was curvy & sleek with a wall of wine to the left of the entrance. Very cool but very comfortable place.
  
• Flute: This former speakeasy is below the street in a dark space with multiple pockets of plush seats & couches. The small but excellent selection of champagnes, sparkling wines & cocktails are perfect for a early evening. We found this place at about 5:05 on a Friday after walking around & sweating our asses off. Try the Marquis de Sade cocktail. I won't spoil it for you.
  
• The Bubble Lounge: This Tribeca spot boasts an unbelievable amount of Champagnes & sparkling wines. Kelly & I found this place the last time we came to NYC & couldn't wait to return. This lounge is very cozy with exposed brick & dark red chairs & sofas. I love, love, LOVE Champagne so I was just a sucker for this place.
  

Viva Italia!

Check out my new article here.

Man-hattan

Kelly & I are in NYC right now. Just got here yesterday & it is hot as HELL. I should be used to this having lived in Memphis for 8 years, but it still doesn't help. Our driver was taking us over the Brooklyn Bridge & just happened to mention that it was 102 degrees! We didn't let that deter us from doing some exploring on foot. We happened upon Morrell Wine shop next to Rockefeller Center. We must have looked like vagrants because one of the wine stewards followed us & stood near us to prevent shoplifting! Hey, I can't blame her, I probably was soaked with sweat & stinky so....But after she engaged me in conversation & learned my tastes we were having a good time & I was spending too much money on really good wine. Kelly made a very interesting observation that "New York has places like this Morrell in one of their most heavily touristy areas. Memphis has rib & burger joints & shops that sell silly bobble heads or other crap. That shows you the different plane that New York is operating on."

For dinner last night we made reservations at Perilla in the West Village. We are huge Top Chef fans so naturally we wanted to eat at Harold Dieterle's (the 1st Top Chef winner) restaurant. The decor & layout were very beautiful. However, on this boiling day it seemed as though they didn't have the air conditioning on. That wasn't pleasant, but we got over it. The second strike was the poorly made sidecar cocktail. Kelly was not happy about it but he drank it. It needed more lemon & more sugar on the rim to balance it out. However, as soon as we sat down at our table we were very excited about the menu in front of us. Kelly decided on the spicy duck meatballs for a starter & I chose the halibut cheeks. Both were outstandingly delicious. The meatballs came with a raw quail egg on top that melted into the broth. Fantastic. My cheeks were seared crisp on the exterior with a juicy interior. For our entrees I had the roasted duckling breast & Kelly had the ricotta ravioli with fiddlehead ferns & truffle butter. Oh my goodness...We chose very wisely. Both dishes were perfectly cooked with delicious layers of flavor. I would recommend this restaurant to anyone visiting Manhattan. Just call ahead & ask if the a/c is working.....& don't order a sidecar.

Farmer's Market Dinner at Majestic Grille

I just received this release from the Majestic Grille. They are planning what is sure to be one of the best wine dinners this summer. Local food & good wine in an incredible setting. What more could you ask for?

MEMPHIS FARMERS MARKET WINE DINNER

Wednesday June 11 – 6:30pm

Reservations Required.

Hors D'Oeuvres

Pizettas - Carmelized spring onions, bonnie blue goat cheese, arugula

Radish "Sandwiches" - Sea salt and chive mayo

Bon Bon Shiraz Rose, South Australia 2007

First Course

Roasted Jumbo Scallop - Baby beets, oranges, mixed greens

Marquis Phillips Holly's Blend, Southeast Australia 2007

Second Course

Veal Tenderloin - Stuffed with chard, zucchini and fresh herbs with natural juices, sugar glazed carrots and roasted fingerling potatoes

Chris Ringland's Green Lion Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley CA 2005

Dessert

English Strawberry Trifle - Fresh strawberries layered with sponge cake, English custard and canilla cream

Paringa Individual Vineyards Sparkling Shiraz, South Australia 2004

$55 per person plus tax & 20% gratuity. Slow Foods members $50.

Please call 901-522-8555 to make reservations. Seating is limited.

All Carova, All The Time!

Finally the Carova Milk Bar has reconvened. It has been far too long! I haven't blind tasted in quite some time so I suggested we do just that. Everyone brought a brown bag bottle that was not to exceed $25. After the reveal I could tell most of us had cheated on the price point, but what the hell.

Blind tasting is always so humbling. I'm a bit rusty but that just means I need to do this more often.

My descriptors were pretty spot on but I led myself astray on the varietals. Oh well.


Here's the lineup:

Sebastiani Barbera 2004
Tablas Creek Vermentino 2003
Bell Vineyards Merlot 2002
Pepper Bridge Merlot 2003
Isenhower Horse Heaven Hills Syrah 2004

For an extra added bonus, Michael Barar brought a 1993 6 Puttonyos Tokaji......mmmmmmmmm

I decided to share a Turley Cellars Zinfandel Rattlesnake Ridge Howell Mountain 2005 with the gang. Oh my god. It is no wonder that Turley is so highly sought after. They are truly exceptional wines. It was smoky barbecued pork in a glass......mmmmmm.

Reconnect

I recently received an email out of the blue from my old friend Frank. We used to hang out together in high school & college but have lost touch since. It was incredible to reconnect with a friend I didn't realize I missed until we reconnected. He is doing well, traveling a lot for work, I'm doing well, pursuing my passion. Its amazing how things change. We never thought we would end up doing what we are doing. Which goes to show that you can't ever predict the future. It makes me think of the wines I've drunk that I haven't thought about in years. Perrier Jouet Gran Blason Rose at the Soho Grand in New York with Kelly a few years ago. Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo 2005 at Avec in Chicago last year. 1986 Dom Perignon at la casa de Richie & Meagan for her 21st birthday last year....& most recently Stadt Krems Sandgrube Gruner Veltliner 2006. The Sandgrube vineyard was completely destroyed by hail last year & had to be replanted. Thinking of those amazing old vines just brings me to tears. What a loss. From the destruction a new vineyard will rise to continue the legacy, but nothing can replicate the beauty of those old vines. Much like old friendships can never be the same, yet they become something new.

Salud!