The Best Rosé in the World

Ok. I know that's a strong statement but I just can't help myself. Every year that this bad boy comes out I just squeal like a little child & call my sales rep every day until it arrives in my store. Rosé wine is the only thing that keeps me sane during the disgustingly oppressively ridiculously hot & humid summer months in Memphis. This particular bottle is the holy grail of dry pinks. The biodynamically farmed Robert Sinskey Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2008 Los Carneros District of Napa Valley is, in my opinion, the Domaine Ott of the New World. Actually I don't know if that's the right comparison because Ott under delivers & is overpriced. I guess what I mean to say is that this is the New Worlds best example of a well made dry rosé. The color is like a rosy cheek on someone who is sexually excited, faintly flushed capillaries. Normally this color is misleading on this particular bottle given that its palate is usually just the opposite & not faint at all. But this year its austere, elegant, razor sharp & so bright & clean with a barely under ripe wild strawberry note & hints of melon. The nose exhibits white raspberry, rainier cherry & a kind of moist rock quality. Its really good juice which the very thought of puts a smile on my face. Unfortunately, we at Joe's bought up the entire retail allocation which sold out in 45 minutes. Normally I wouldn't blog about a lovely little pink that no one else can get in Memphis (I also got an email that this wine is sold out at the winery, sorry!) However, I heard a rumor that the distributor might be getting more so I'll keep you posted if I get some more in.

New Article

Check out my new article here.

Oregon Pinot Camp 2009, coming soon

After trying for almost 2 years I finally got invited to Oregon Pinot Camp! So I've booked a little Euro-style room at Hotel Oregon in McMinnville. Anyone stayed there? I'm also looking for recommendations on hotels in Portland. I don't want anything too expensive. Just comfy & cool & near to fun bars, restaurants etc. Any restaurant recommendations? I think I'm going to eat at Beast, Naomi Pomeroy's restaurant. Anyplace else I should check out? Or what about winebars, lounges, divebars? Help!! I leave in a month.

Thinking Pink

I've been away for a bit, sorry. Stella is taking up a lot of my time & energy keeping her from doing the things she is not supposed to do. Her leg seems as though it is healing up the way it should & she is happy as can be. Hopefully the vet will say as much on Wednesday. So, even though it has been beautiful cool weather the past weekend it has been getting warm here in Memphis. The one good thing about summer, I hate the heat, is all the good dry pink wines to choose from. My latest favorite is Zaca Mesa Z Gris Dry Rosé 2008 Santa Ynez Valley, CA ($17.99 at Joe's Wines, 1681 Poplar 901.725.4252). You can't tell from the image above but it is a faintly pink wine, almost more salmon than pink. Its very provencal in style with notes of dried raspberry, a hint of brine & herbs on the nose. The palate is deliciously bright, with mouthwatering acidity, fresh strawberry notes, a medium bodied weight & a luscious finish. A bottle of this, a plate of olives & a sunlit patio with friends would be absolute heaven.

I Need A Glass

Sometimes I just need a good glass to blur the edges a bit. Tomorrow our little baby girl, Stella, is having knee surgery. She is still acting like her little puppy self & not like she's about to have ACL surgery. Not a clue. I, on the other hand, am a total wreck. Needless to say I could use a glass of wine.....or two. Magnificent Wine Co.'s House Wine Red 2007 has been a go to wine of mine since it hit the market last year. I originally tried it a few years ago on vacation in Louisville. It offers so much bang for your buck. At $13, I really feel it over delivers for the price. This yummy little Washington red is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, cabernet franc & sangiovese. Its dark, luscious, spicy & bursting with currant, plum & blueberry fruit. Its exactly what I need to take the edge off my nervousness for my little baby puppy dog's big scary surgery.

Tilth, After Drooling For Over a Year.

A few weeks ago we were in beautiful, cool Seattle. Now I'm in balmy 80 degree Memphis. Sticky. Humidity short circuiting brain.

While in Seattle we dined at Tilth. I had initially read about this restaurant in the New York Times last year when it was named one of the Top 10 best new restaurants OUTSIDE of New York. I was drawn in by the photograph of this beautiful old house painted an earthy green tone. It just seemed so warm & cozy. The restaurant focuses on local, sustainable produce, meat, fish, etc. Since I was on the veggie tip on my last post, I'll start there. There are two dishes that stand out in my mind. Kelly ordered the cassoulet based on earthy, creamy, unctuous beans with wild chanterelles & Oregon truffles. Simply superb! I know, I know! Cassoulet without duck confit & duck sausage! If it makes us feel more comfortable we can call it something else.

The second dish was absolute heaven. Braised pork cheeks over a pig trotter cake in a pancetta-parmiggiano broth. Honestly, I wish I could describe this dish but I really don't think I could come close. The only thing I can say is that it gave me the same feeling I used to get when I was in my grandmother's kitchen smelling those sweet/savory smells & eating her incredible food. It paired perfectly with an rich, earthy, truffly, dark cherry laden Evesham Wood Pinot Noir 2006 Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon. I plan on seeking this winery out when I go to Oregon Pinot Camp in June. Cheers!

No I'm Not Going Vegetarian But...

Kelly & I went to Whole Foods in East Memphis for a class on veggie burgers taught by my very very good friend Justin aka The Chubby Vegetarian. His Lentil-Mushroom burger was absolutely outstanding! It was meaty & earthy & was a perfect meat substitute. With Kelly becoming a vegetarian I'm always looking for ways to update my cooking repertoire. I still love me some meat, as anyone who has visited this blog will see, but damn those veggie burgers were yummy!

Go on over to Justin's site & get some recipes from him.

Even More Surfaces...

Check out this post at Dr Vino, click here.


The way I feel about is that sure we would love to all take advantage of freebies. I'm just being honest here. But that can dilute the enthusiasm about a particular wine region because it basically amounts to being bought & paid for, in a sense. For example, when I went to Taste of Washington recently I did so on my own dime. There were some trade events that I was not charged for, such as entrance to the Grand Tasting & a trade tasting on Friday, but I paid for everything else. Travel, accommodations, even my seminars on Saturday. My enthusiasm & passion for Washington wines is a result of my own curiosity & insatiable desire to learn more. Not because I was bought off.

Hilarious!!

This is quite possibly one of the most entertaining email exchanges I've ever read in the wine world.

Washington Is Grape Heaven

I've returned from my first excursion to Seattle for the Taste of Washington....& it was truly one of the best & most well planned series of events that I have ever attended. For someone like me, who is in the biz, it was amazing. But anyone who enjoys good wine would love the Taste of Washington. To see some of my rockstars (Chris Camarda, Charles Smith, Ron Bunnell, Chris Upchurch) & taste their wine was an experience like no other. I sat in on a couple seminars about two "grand cru" vineyard sites; Klipsun & Champoux. Patricia Gelles, owner of Klipsun, is an English transplant who saw the winemaking potential of Red Mountain in Eastern Washington in the early 80's. Her vineyard supplies the raw material to such luminaries as Lachini, Januik Cellars, DeLille & small group of highly sought after wineries. Bruce Schoenfeld of Travel & Leisure led both the Klipsun & Champoux seminars. What I found really interesting was his observation of the uniqueness of WA state. "It has long struck me that Washington may be the most unique wine growing region in the New World," he said. "Vineyards are not monopoles." This allows the showcasing of many different styles of making wine from the same vineyard. Its blatantly obvious that the true stars of WA are the vineyards. However, the winemakers put their own spin on the beautiful raw material they are given. I immediately got the impression that Patricia was a force of nature.

Bruce: "Have you ever turned a winemaker who has asked to purchase some of your fruit?"
Patricia: "I have. If I taste some of the wines they've previously made & don't like them I shall refuse."

John Bigelow of JM Cellars recounted a story of when he was trying to get into the winemaking business. He went to Patricia to try & buy her fruit & she refused based on his inexperience. With his tail between his legs he went to Pete Hedges of Hedges Family Estate & asked him if he could buy some of his fruit. Hedges said that he didn't have any of his own estate fruit to sell but he did have some very expensive fruit from another vineyard that he wouldn't mind selling. That vineyard: Klipsun! John & Pete agreed on a price & John left feeling very accomplished. Shortly afterwards he ran into Patricia & said "I'm getting some of your fruit after all, isn't that great?" Her response: "No you are not." She explained that she controls who gets her fruit & would not stand for anyone superseding her authority. Patricia promptly rang Pete Hedges & gave him an earful for trying to sell off some of her fruit that he had contracted to purchase. Thankfully, she did take pity on John & finally agreed to sell him some Klipsun grapes.

Patricia: "Washington merlot on its own has such substance & depth. California merlot doesn't have that kind of grip even at triple the price."

She couldn't be more right. I'd had merlot from WA in the past that I thought was exceptional (Milbrandt, Andrew Will, Nelms Road) but never had I been subjected to such an overwhelming merlot. Good...no...GREAT merlot. Not the thin watery, hollow swill from most CA producers but dark, luscious, supple, gripping, spice laden, fruit laden deliciousness. Merlot haters, get the hell over yourself & get on board with this fantastic elixir. Seriously.

It really was a unique experience to taste a group of wines all from the same site. We tasted three wineries, Januik, JM, DeLille. A barrel sample & a finished wine from each plus two Mystery wines. One from Klipsun & one not.

The Klipsun wines all had similar opaque purple cores with dark red rims along with similar plum-like aromas. While they shared similar characteristics it was how they expressed them in different nuanced ways that was so cool. They also all shared a liqueur quality on the nose & palate with significant concentration.

Taste Washington!

I'm in Seattle right now. Came out here for the Taste of Washington; a series of trade tastings, seminars, networking & a Grand Tasting focused on the wines of Washington State. It has been a whirlwind to say the least. The seminars were very eye-opening & fun, one was on Klipsun Vineyard the other I went to was on Champoux Vineyard both are grand cru sites in WA. I'll update with a more extensive post after I return to Memphis. Today I'm off to the Grand Tasting. Wish me luck!

Grilled Cheese Not Quite So "Top Chef" style

The great cheese off has came & went. Last night Justin & I battled it out in a hardcore grilled cheese throwdown......ok not really hardcore, just fun. We had been discussing this contest for quite some time. From the get go I knew I wanted to do something with a gouda style goat cheese. I don't know why other than the fact that I LOVE gouda goat. I was considering a second grilled cheese, something sweet rather than savory. However, I just couldn't come up with anything at the market. So, I picked up some Mahon cheese from Spain to complement the gouda. I grabbed an avocado as well. The unctuous texture of the avocado, I speculated, would work well with the cheese. Earlier in the day I caramelized some onions in hopes that they would add some sweetness & depth the sandwich.

Upon arriving at his home, I discovered that Justin had similar ideas. He had caramelized onions as well, but added extra punch with sage & rosemary. Hmmmm....this was going to be a tough one. As we unpacked our goodies, Amy poured both Kelly & I a glass of wine. Justin & I both got to work grating cheese, I sliced up my avocado & bread. I chose a roasted garlic boule & Justin decided on a large French bread. We both layered our fresh breads with the goodies & got to griddling. After they were significantly golden brown we sliced them up & served them to our significant others, & ourselves of course.

I gotta tell you, it was tough going up against Justin. No matter how fun it was, & it WAS super fun, part of me did really want to win. But I had to give it up to Justin. His grilled cheese was packed with flavor, his caramelized onions packed some serious richness & sweetness. They added so much. But the biggest factor was the all important "gooey" factor. It is paramount that a grilled cheese has serious goo. My grilled cheese, while delicious, just wasn't gooey enough. Oh well! This "cheese" off was too much fun.

Don't Let This Economy Kill Our Culture

Get out & eat! Dine in Memphis' amazing independent restaurants now! Help them survive this economic crisis & really couldn't we all use a good meal right about now??

I don't want to turn around & see that some of the best restaurants I've ever dined have closed their doors. These people are our friends, neighbors, relatives, etc. Places such as Restaurant Iris don't just provide food & drink they provide an experience, something you'll never forget.

Don't forget about them now when they need you the most. Support what makes this city great! Get out & eat in our independent restaurants!!

Dark & Stormy

I've been bad about posting, I know. I'm sorry. I just haven't felt as though I've made much to say lately.

Last Saturday at The Cove (a great bar on Broad Ave right off of Hollywood) I was turned onto a cocktail that I've never had before; a Dark & Stormy. It is approximately 1 1/2 oz of dark rum (preferably Goslings Black Seal) to 6 oz Ginger Beer with a twist of lime. It has just the right amount of sweetness with a hint of dark molasses & spice from the ginger. I think I had 2 or three that night.

Last night I re-created this recipe at home with Goslings & Reed's Ginger Beer that I bought by the 4-pack at Whole Foods.

Delicious again. I have a feeling this is going to be my cocktail of choice for the hot Memphis summers.

First Big Trip of the Year

I'm going to Seattle for business. Seattle is a city that I've always wanted to visit but just haven't gotten around to. Any recommendations for restaurants, wine bars, wine shops or anything at all?

Colome Torrontes 2007

Sometimes I can just taste the stress & hard life at the edge of the world in a wine. Wine is just more interesting & has more personality when it has to struggle, much like people. I had the pleasure of tasting just such a wine on Friday, Bodega Colome Torrontes 2007 Salta, Argentina $15.99. The vines are biodynamically (no small feat at this altitude) grown between 5000 - 8000 feet above sea level in high desert. At that altitude they are stressed to their limit & have to struggle to produce fruit. That struggle produces grapes that have extra thick skins & juice that is super concentrated producing a wine that is rich but not cloying or heavy. Its aroma gives away its relation to the muscat grape with floral, candied notes of ginger & jasmine. With a silver cloak & gleaming translucency I thought that the palate would be light, brisk & clean but I was wrong. On the palate I found a rich, concentrated & broad wine that lingered with flavors of papaya, guava & a glycerol almost lanolin-like texture. A life of struggle can yield beauty.

Grilled Cheese "Top Chef" style

So, my friend Justin & I are having a grilled cheese contest. I was trying to decide what wine to pour alongside. What do you pair with grilled cheese?

Crisp White for a Crisp Night

I know we are headlong into the rich, ripe, full bodied red wine season BUT I am sipping on a simply delightful white wine right now. Cousino Macul Sauvignon Gris 2008 Chile. Hopefully I'll be able to get this in the store soon. If so, it will be around $14. The sauvignon gris grape is similar to sauvignon blanc in its expression. It has a grassy, mineral-driven, citrus peel aroma with a mouthwatering & crisp acidity & citrus laden palate. The wine is dry but has a luscious fruit flavor that is lovely on its own but would be lovely if paired with steamed clams, fresh oysters or a red snapper torta.

Brewed in February

Contact Joe's Wines, 1681 Poplar 901.725.4252, for tickets & further information.

The Beautiful Vines of Gigondas.

This video is so cool.

Dad Turned 60!

My parents don't look old. Not by a long shot! My folks came down to Memphis this past weekend to celebrate Dad's 60th birthday. It is hard to believe he's 60, referencing my previous statement. They are both very full of life & energy & have been & always will be the best parents in the history of the universe. Anyway, they got in Saturday early evening so we popped open a bottle of white wine (Lackner Tinnacher Gelber Muskateller 2003 Austria still some left at Joe's but not much) & caught up. The wine was crisp & bright & very fresh tasting given its 5 years of age. After that was through we headed up to Restaurant Iris for a couple cocktails & their fantastic Boudin. We capped the night off with a couple burgers & appetizers at Cafe 1912. Best burger in town by far. Juicy meat, Maytag blue, bacon & garlic aioli. Kelly had goat cheese ravioli & a Lyonnaise Salad with no bacon because he is avoiding meat. Going vegetarian isn't much a of a stretch for him given that he's not much of a meat eater to begin with. Dad & I capped the night off with a couple scotches (Balvenie Doublewood 12 yr old, oh so good) & some political discussion. On Sunday I had already planned out what I was going to cook for dinner & had it ready in the fridge. Rack of lamb, risotto, haricot verts & chocolate pots de creme. For Kelly a Naked Chicken soy chicken cutlet. I started by marinating the lamb & fake chicken with basil puree, garlic, wine, salt pepper & a dash of red wine vinegar & let that sit for about 2 hours. My sous chefs (Mom & Dad) diced the shallot & garlic for the risotto, which I sauteed in olive oil. I had Dad stir the arborio rice & slowly ladle in the warm stock until it became creamy & the rice had released its starch. Me being the "alpha cook" that I am I kept stepping in to stir or add stock. Dad kept saying to me "don't screw up my rice!" all while sipping from his wine. That wine was a Soter Vineyards Pinot Noir 2006 North Valley, Oregon. At first it seemed a little light & shut down. But after a bit of time it developed & fleshed out. It became rich, round, supple with dark cherry, a hint of tea & clove & just a bit of lavender. Lovely. Absolutely lovely. Even my Dad remarked on how delicious it was & he doesn't like pinot noir. He is more into big, bold, rich red wines. So of COURSE I had to open something like that. For wine, I thought the lamb needed something with earthiness, acidity & dark red fruit. I pulled out my last bottle of Neitea 1998 Tuscany, Italy, a blend of sangiovese & cabernet sauvignon. This dark Tuscan beauty is just now ready to drink, I can't imagine what this was like upon release. It was just perfect for the lamb with the perfect amount of tannin, dark fruit & acid to cut through the gaminess of the meat. But we weren't done yet. Its not a birthday without some dessert, right?? With the aide of my trusty, sous chefs I prepared a dark chocolate pots de creme. First, scaled some half & half & milk with a little organic sugar. In a heatproof bowl I whisked together 5 egg yolks & tempered them with the hot liquid. Then I added all that back to the sauce pan & stirred it on low heat until it became a custard. I poured that custard over chopped dark chocolate, let it sit for 2 minutes then whisked it together until fully melted. The trick to its smooth texture is to blend it. I used a stick blender or wand, but you could use a traditional blender. What better way to end a meal than chocolate? I think Dad liked it because his ramekin was empty before any of ours. I forgot to take a pic until AFTER I took the first bite, oops.

Beer Glorious Beer!!

Click here for an incredible story about Dogfish Head Brewery. Joe's Wines has this beer, the Palo Santo, that they are talking about. And it's goooooood.

The Actual First Gourmet Excursion of 2009

I must apologize. In my hastiness to post about Sunday's amazingly delicious team effort dinner, I stated that it was the first gourmet experience of 2009. That wasn't true. Hop on over to The Chubby Vegetarian to read about our incredible dinner last Saturday.

Gourmet Start to 2009

Last week Richie & I were discussing getting together to drink some good wines. We came up with the idea of meeting at the market with our wines & letting our selections dictate what we cooked. Yesterday we met at Whole Foods at 5 p.m. Kelly couldn't make it because he had to work on his lesson plan for his first day back, booooo.

I brought a Cayuse Syrah 2001 Cailloux Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley. My wine inspired me to prepare a blueberry & spice glazed grass fed NY strip with tomato & bacon risotto & haricots verts with parmiggiano & truffle oil. Richie & Meagan's wines were Delille Cellars Chaleur Estate 1998 Columbia Valley, WA & Andrea Oberto Barolo 1991 Piedmont. Yes, I have to admit, this was one HELL of a lineup! Their wines inspired them to prepare a Moussaka. Plus they felt that this particular dish would also pair with the steak.

Upon return to their beautiful kitchen, we began to cook. With Richie & I acting as her sous chefs, Meagan began by preparing the Bechamel sauce, boiling the sliced potatoes & frying the eggplant. Next she browned the ground lamb & onions. Meanwhile I mixed together blueberry preserves, pepper, salt, garlic, white wine, smoked paprika & cumin for my steak's glaze. I slathered all that goodness all over the grass fed beauties & let it all soak in. Next I turned my attention towards the risotto. I browned some diced bacon & set that aside. I added olive oil & some bacon fat to a pan & sauteed shallots, garlic & arborio rice. Then I added chopped tomatoes, some tomato juice & a ladle of warm chicken stock. I stirred until all the stock was incorporated & repeated until the rice was soft & creamy. We through the steaks on the grill & seared them
medium rare.
















About 30 minutes before plating we opened the Oberto Barolo to check it's progress. The Nebbiolo grape is notoriously hard edged & rough in its youth. But with age....Oh it just becomes something so elegant, beautiful & sensual. Winos talk about Burgundy being the ultimate sensual red. For me its an aged Barolo (or Brunello, love that!). This baby didn't disappoint. The aroma was all dried leaves on an Autumn forest floor, hints of truffle & mushroom, dried rose & violet. One sip just rippled through my body as if silk covered hands gave me a quick rub down. This was something special. So elegant, sensually caressing my palate & leaving a lasting finish on the back of the palate.

We decanted both the Cayuse & the Delille due to our speculation that both would be big & rich. We weren't disappointed. The Cayuse was laden with smoky notes of espresso bean, cocoa, blueberry & jerky/smoked meat note. The palate was rich & round but not heavy or too over the top, balanced in everyway. The flavor profile played off the glazed steak & risotto very well. The cocoa notes paired with the Moussaka quite nicely. The Delille was a bit more refined in its expression. An 11 year old Washington Bordeaux blend, who knew??? It had dark notes of minerals, dark currant, a hint of flowers. On the palate was a full body, nicely integrated tannins & an underlying dark texture that kept evolving in the glass. This wine paired perfectly with the Moussaka & even played off the gaminess of the grass fed beef well.

All in all, a perfect food & wine event. I can't wait to see what 2009 has in store!

A Special Cuvee for a Special Restaurant

As I noted in an article in the Memphis Flyer (click here), Restaurant Iris is getting a exclusive cuvee from Robert Turner Winery. It is a testament to the level that Iris is operating at that an ultra boutique, high quality producer would bottle an exclusive blend for them. I had the pleasure of tasting the Robert Turner Winery Restaurant Iris Cuvee Chardonnay 2007 Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley not 2 hours ago & I'm absolutely in love with it. Thats saying quite a lot coming from me considering that chardonnay is one of my least favorite varietals. As readers of my blog, you can attest to the fact that I've almost never written about chard. But this is something different entirely. Immediately the nose gave off notes of clove, apple skin, vanilla, hints of licorice & cinnamon. The palate was rich & layered with ripe pear, a luscious texture, mouthwatering acidity & a finish that stayed on my palate for an incredible duration. What struck is that I kept wanting to return to the glass to smell & taste again. It seemed to give me a new expression of flavors each time. That is, to me, the utmost sign of quality. When a wine holds my attention & brings me back to the glass time & time again thats when I know I've got something special.

Since this is a unique cuvee, Iris won't have much of this wine for a very long time. Go now! Experience this wonderful juice for yourself.

Giving

In my business the holidays slip away very quickly. Who am I kidding it shoots right through everyone's fingers no matter what your profession! Amidst the insanity there are moments of calm enjoyment & pleasure that make me exhale & think to myself that no matter the craziness going on around me I can count on my family & friends to show me what the holidays are all about. Our very good friends Becca & Lee took Kelly & me out for a surprise dinner at The Blue Fish last week. We dined on one of the most delicious (& dangerous to harvest) animals on the planet...whole Alaskan King Crab. They don't call it Deadliest Catch for nothing, but I can see why they go to all the trouble. The friendly & very personable server brought out the whole crab for show before it went back into the kitchen for preparation. This delectable monstrosity took up an entire tray, not a little cocktail tray but the ones used to carry out 8-10 large plates to big tables. It looked almost prehistoric or alien with its pointy hard shell, multiple plump limbs & large claws. I could barely contain myself. The server prepared the crab for us by cutting off its juicy appendages, placing bowls of drawn butter by each of us & flipping the carapace over to reveal the succulent lump meat at the joints. As we all tore into our crustacean each of us remarked on how fun the process was & how it reminded us of being children. I hear that Blue Fish has just a small handful of these coming in for New Year's so jump on them now before they are all gone. It is simply delicious & so much fun. Thank you again Becca & Lee! We love you!

It Doesn't Always Have to Be a Special Occasion......

Sorry about the lack of posts, I've had the crud thats been going around. Luckily I was well enough to go out for dinner for my anniversary. We initially tried to go to Andrew Michael but they were booked up until 9. Oh well, better luck next time. So instead, we stopped by Joe's to pick up a little something special. I love all things Italian, of course, & Kelly loves Barolo....so we grabbed a 2001 Claudio Alario Barolo. 2001 was practically a perfect year in Piemonte, everything just came together beautifully from rain level, fog, all that. This perfect storm produced wines that are almost indescribable. Nebbiolo is without a doubt a grape type that needs some time to develop, soften & come together. With 7 years in the bottle I knew this was beginning to be ready, even though it could easily age for another 13. We popped this baby open & decanted. Immediately what struck me was the aroma of tar & dried rose petal........& that was just from the decanter across the table. Once I took a big whiff of my glass I got notes of truffle, forest floor, dried black currant & a sweet spice note that I couldn't quite place. This is what is exciting about wine. When I can't fully discern what a wine is expressing to me than I know its something special. Every time I sipped, I inhaled deeply & got more layers of aroma. Every time I sipped, the textures & flavors hit my palate in a different way. This wine is something special & made our anniversary that much more special. 7 year old Barolo & 7 years of love. How perfect.

Under the Weather

Uggh. I've got the ick that is going around. I'll be back with more posts after I get over this.

Aged Soave

I've said it before & I'll say it again. I am blessed with some ridiculously great friends (see my previous post about a little goodie from Becca & Lee). Last week my friend Elizabeth texted me to say that she had a book for Kelly & 2 bottles of wine for me. Score! She came over to talk vino & snack on a little dinner while catching up. When she unveiled the bottles I was taken aback....Pieropan Calvarino Soave 2004. 2004! Soave with some bottle age? Never thought to hang on to Soave. The garganega grape has never struck me as one built to go the distance. Granted yes, it is only 4 years of age but some whites fall apart after just a couple of years. Still, I've learned my lesson & I always keep my mind open. I needed to explore this on my own. The next night I popped open the bottle & poured a glass. It was a rich golden tone with a clean translucency. The aromas were of slightly poached apples, hazelnut & vanilla cream. The palate was round & full but not heavy with a crisp acidity on the finish. That finish just lingers & lingers & lingers. Thank you Elizabeth!!!!

My very good friend Becca gave me a plethora of gourmet deliciousness for my birthday. One such yumminess was a bar from Vosges Haut Chocolat. Anyone who hasn't heard of this chocolate company, go out & immediately buy anything you see from them, no matter how weird it sounds. The founder & head chocolatier, Katrina Markoff, starts with the best quality cocoa beans & crafts them into an unctuous & sublime chocolate. Many would be satisfied to stop there. Not Markoff. She adds in spices, herbs & even meat to create a flavor, texture & even aroma that has never been experienced before. Olives? Check. Smoked sea salt? Check. Curry? Check, & even bacon, yes bacon. The above bar, thank you Becca!, is called the Naga Bar. Its filled with curry powder & coconut in a deep milk chocolate & its....oh....so....incredible. What struck me immediately was how aromatic it is. The combination of mildly spicy curry & chocolate gives off a dark, savory sweetness that is exotic yet comforting. The snap of the coconut flakes adds a nutty sweetness & the chocolate itself is slow melting & not too sweet. I think I'm in love.

Ever Had Your Birth Year?

My friend Ken Neill invited Kelly & I over to his house this past holiday. Its a tradition of his to have his children & extended family over for a holiday meal & something special. Each year he opens up a selection of wines from some of his family's birth years. Now this was simply astonishing. I've been lucky enough to drink some old wines, but this was something truly exceptional. Before we got into the birth year blowout, we sipped a few aperitif wines. Ken poured me a glass of 2005 Kia Kaha Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand. Given the age of this wine, I was curious to say the least. Sauv blanc from the new world is not built for aging. However, this tasted fresh, crisp & refreshingly delicious. Before sitting down to dinner I also had a glass of 1999 Prinsi Barbaresco from Piedmont, Italy. Readers of this blog know how obsessed I am with Italian wines so this was a nice treat, a nebbiolo with a little age on it. The color was a dusky rust tint with a dark core, aromas of rose, smoky tar & a ripe, rich texture in the mouth.

The first birth wine was a 1996 Landmark Damaris Reserve Chardonnay Sonoma County in honor of Ken's grandson JD. The color was, just as I expected, dark gold...almost amber tinted. The texture was similar to a light Madeira. It was juicy, with a soft acid that was barely detectable with a nuttiness on the finish.

Next was a 1994 Erath Reserve Pinot Noir Weber Vineyard Willamette Valley in honor of Ken's grandaughter Neill. Ken wasn't expecting too much from this bottle, but I was very excited & kept an open mind. Obviously Ken's cellar is the optimal storage facility so I had faith that the Erath would be drinking good. The wine had a dark core in the glass that gradually gave way to a ruby/brick color that dissipated towards the rim. On the nose was a wild, earthy, dried spice & fruit aroma that wafted up like smoke off a camp fire. It was still very much alive...& delicious. What a way to drink Oregon pinot noir, with a little age on it. The texture was succulent & velvety, like I imagine a silk scarf would feel like if I licked it.

Up next was a 1982 Robert Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley in honor of Evan. The color was still quite dark & the aroma had dark dried currant & leather on it. Unfortunately the palate was done for. It came on with a little fruit & spice but quickly dissipated.

Our next endeavor was a 1977 John Walker & Co Pinot Noir from Central Coast California in honor of . JW & Co is a wine merchant in San Francisco who over the years has had wineries bottle certain cuvees specifically for the store. This particular pinot was from the original Chalone Vineyard! The cork was a bitch to work with, completely disintegrated on me when I attempted opening it. Thank goodness for the decanter & filter. Its color was muddled & odd but the aroma was all earthy, mushroomy, dried clove, tea leaf....like they made this in an attempt to beat the Burgundians at their own game. Which makes sense considering back then, in the '70's, CA winemakers weren't going after the stratospheric brix levels that they are now. They were into subtlety much like their old world counterparts were. I digress. On the palate was a finely aged pinot noir. Silky, wildly textured, dried cherry & cola with a sensuality more than a flavor. Yes we had a bit to drink by now but this was a wine I felt rather than tasted.

Next was a wine I couldn't believe I was about to taste. When Ken showed me the lineup for the night it took every ounce of willpower not to scream & jump up & down. I wasn't seeing things, I was actually about to taste a 1971 Chateau Margaux. Oh......my. This rare & special wine was in honor of Ken's daughter, & my good friend, Molly. She is also pretty special & rare! The wine's color was alive, dark & without a hint of muddiness, with a gradual color transition working its way out from the core from dark ruby to pink. Aromas of sweet grass, hay, clove, dried cherry, currant, earth & leather spun out of the glass. This wine was still very much alive. Tasting it sent shockwaves of texture throughout my mouth from top to bottom & across my palate. It tasted of rocky soil, clove, vanilla with a presence that seemed to say "I may be 37 years old but I have a lot of life left." The finish continued on & on, I lost track really.

The last wine of the night was a 1966 Chateau Beau Site from the Saint Estephe district of Bordeaux. While opening this bottle to decant, Senator Steve Cohen pointed at the bottle & said "Saint Steve!" Hmmm. Our oldest wine of the night was in honor of Sherman, Molly's fiance. After the appropriate toast Marlinee stated that the was actually for her husband Max who himself was born in '66 & whose birthday was the very next day. We hoped that was going to be the only declaration she made that evening. I say that with the utmost love, Mar. Back to the vino. Its 42 years of age barely registered in the color. While there was a brick tint to it, the hue wasn't faded or thin looking. The one thing that shone through the most on the palate was the cocoa bean & coffee. It was almost immediate, very vibrant. The weight was surprisingly full for its age, it spread across my palate with a luscious texture & flavors of leather & dried cranberry.

Wow. What a night. Thank you so much Ken! I can't wait until next year!

The End or ?

One of the most inspirational people in the culinary Illuminati of Memphis is closing up shop. My friend Alyce Mantia is shuttering her eponymous gourmet deli & restaurant, Mantia's. Its almost TOO sad to report. Over the 8 years I've been in Memphis, Mantia's was the place that would inspire me to prepare some of the finest meals I've ever experienced. She became my friend, sometime employer, & over all culinary guru. Every time I would even think about heading over to Mantia's I would become giddy with excitement. What better way to pass the time than to purchase exotic cheeses, oils & spice blends? This shop wasn't just a retail store it was a destination. I could always count on Alyce & Joanna to be there with smiling faces & a recipe idea or story. There is nowhere in town to buy Jamon Serrano, which I think is VASTLY superior to Prosciutto di Parma. Nowhere. She kept a leg of this jamon to slice just like it should be done in Spain. I'm going to miss this place. I'm going to miss seeing the duck fat in the freezer next to the Buerre d'Isigny. I'm going to miss my favorite tuna salad in town. I'm going to miss the giant wheels of Humboldt Fog. I'm going to miss the way Alyce would pronounce French perfectly. Her Cassoulet was the most amazing dish I have ever tasted. Whatever Alyce does next I'm sure will be excellent. I love you Alyce!!

Spelunking We Will Go!

Christmas has come early. This past Monday we tasted through a slew of reduced priced wines at one of our wholesalers. There were a couple dogs yes, but what I found were some truly exceptional gems. Sadly, not every wine is appreciated when it is brought to market. Some of them are misunderstood, unappreciated or disregarded for reason or another. Many wines just aren't ready to be drunk upon release. Not every buyer in town understands these things. Fortunately, we get to reap the benefit of these poor bypassed wonders (such as the Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir from the previous post!). One such standout was the Gregory Graham Syrah 2000 Napa Valley. 2000 was not necessarily considered the best vintage in Napa, but if there is one thing I've learned its to not always listen to the critics. This dark, blue velvet toned wine was rich & unctuous but a little closed off at first taste. I went back to it after tasting through another 20-some wines & this second time it seemed almost awkwardly pungent. But I just knew something was there, I could feel that it was going to blossom.....& did it ever. After work the next day I poured myself a glass from the open bottle & took a big whiff. The nose had developed into a thick perfume of smoke, bacon fat, drying blueberry, beef jerky, fennel & clove. The palate was fleshy, rich & dark with a round unctuous texture that still displayed some bright acid. Bright enough for the rich dish it would need such as lamb with black olives, peking duck or braised pork tagine. There are next to no bottles left so the minuscule amount that we get in at Joe's will surely go quickly. I know I'm going to grab a couple for my cellar!

The Small Guys Make Good Juice

Well its not as if this is a news flash or anything, but smaller producers just seem to make wine that is so much more expressive, beautiful & emotional than the big guys. Today I had a 375 ml bottle of Papapietro Perry Elsbree Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 Russian River Valley. Not only was it a rich, luscious, velvety, silky, expressive pinot but it also had presence. That certain something that instantly registered as...well, special! The range of food pairings immediately ran through my mind. Duck with cherries, jamon serrano with manchego & olives, lamb shoulder in a red wine glaze, figs & goat cheese. Mmmmmmmm.

The Tube

Is anyone watching the new Top Chef? What do you think of the first episode?

Something Different

We were lucky enough to score some Novy Family Winery Blanc de Noir 2007 Willamette Valley $26.99. It may sound like it but it is NOT a sparkling wine. I know, I know wines designated a Blanc de Noir are typically sparkling but this (as my post title states) is something.....different. 2007 wasn't necessarily the best vintage for Oregon. Therefore, Siduri/Novy wanted to make the proverbial lemonade from lemons. Winemaker Ryan Zepaltas crushed their pinot noir grapes & immediately ran them off their skins so as not to pick up any color. Hence the Blanc (white) de Noir (from black grapes). The wine does have a slight flesh tone to its hue, but this beauty is all about the aroma & texture. The nose gives off aromas of star fruit, passion fruit, clove, white raspberry & a hint of soil. On the palate is a ripe viscous texture that is not overwhelmingly heavy (think of a balanced viognier or grenache blanc something Northern Rhone) or weighted. Its balanced with a bright acidity & a somewhat lanolin-esque finish. My immediate thoughts when tasting this was that it would be perfect paired with all the upcoming holiday dishes. Turkey, dressing, ham, even lamb!
Find this at Joe's, I'm not sure if anyone else got any. Yours truly had them send a sample bottle in since this market wasn't slated to receive any of this wine.

Going Veg

My friend The Chubby Vegetarian has prepared countless delectable, meat-free meals in his kitchen. One of the many things I love about him is his love of butter. Sorry vegans but you are only depriving yourself of soul-enriching goodness by avoiding butter so just get over it. His tomato-leek confit is simply sublime. He has made his own vegetarian sausage, roasted hen of the woods (tasted like a fresh seared halibut...so GOOD!) stuffed morel mushrooms. I could go on but I'm suddenly STARVING. He has inspired me to explore more vegetarian focused cookery. Yesterday I prepared a baked pasta to serve for lunch or dinner, busy week. I mixed organic whole wheat shells with sauteed onions, garlic, wild mushrooms, Field Roast's Italian Sausage, Oregon brandy, cream & some cheddar. There's some veggie love for ya!

Bubbles

Given that Obama won the election, I think its time to celebrate early rather than wait for New Year's. When it comes to celebrations I reach for Champagne. I know, its kind of cliche but I use any excuse to pop the bubbly. My current favorite is Chartogne-Taillet NV Brut, $53.99 at Joe's. This is a family owned Champagne house, a real farmer fizz. I can truly taste the love & affection that goes into this bottle. Unlike the industrial river of never ending, one-dimensional bubbly (Clicquot anyone?), Chartogne Taillet is complex & expressive. On the nose are aromas of toast, orange marmalade, mushroom & preserved lemon. The palate is creamy, bright & citrusy, with hints of earthiness, a luscious texture & a long, lingering finish. Maybe President Obama will pop a bottle on his first day in the White House!

Oh...so...good

No secret. I love Italian wine. Love it. Love it. Delicious juice. This little beauty is an amazing score. Villa La Selva Felciaia 1998. With 10 years in the bottle this wine is fleshed out with a luscious texture, aromas of fennel blossom, dried cranberry, earth & a bit of barnyard. On the palate are tannins that are still very pronounced with a rich texture, dried cranberries, dried raspberries & a lengthy finish. I'm drinking it by itself but I think it would blossom with a braised beef dish, grilled lamb or even a plate of salami & olives. Sorry about the picture, it just wasn't turning out the way I wanted it to look. Find it at Joe's.

Sorry

Sorry I haven't posted in awhile. I sliced open my hand & its been uncomfortable to type. I promise to have some posts up soon.

Abyssinia, finally!

I have driven by the Ethiopian restaurant Abyssinia for the entire 8 years that I have lived here in Memphis. I've always been curious about it but I've never made it in. Becca & Lee called & asked if they could take Kelly & I there for a belated birthday dinner. Becca tempted even further by promising to bring a bottle of Chateau Musar 1998 Bekaa Valley, Lebanon. This is one of my absolute favorite wines & from what Becca said it would pair well with the cuisine. I decided to bring along a bottle of Weingut Knoll Ried Krietles Smaragd Gruner Veltliner 2005 Wachau, Austria. When we walked in the door of the restaurant, the first that hit me was the overwhelming aroma of toasting spices. Mmmmmm. The gruner was deliciously bright with fresh acidity & a nutty flavor profile from the bit of age on it. I ordered the lamb which was stir fried with Ethiopian spices, garlic & big chunks of onion. The smoky spice & texture of the lamb was perfect with the Musar's earthy gamy depth of darkness & gripping tannins. Ummmm. I always find it interesting that when I mention Musar is from Lebanon most people just throw back a big "?". But if you think about it, that part of the world has been making wine since the beginning of time.

Thanks Becca & Lee!!!!

Joe's Beer Tasting Sold Out

Yes its true dear readers. Joe's Wines Octoberfest Big Beer Tasting on Thursday October 23rd is SOLD OUT. Too bad so sad but seriously.....when are you going to learn to buy your tickets early????? All the good events always sell out so learn from this & buy early.

A Total Lack of Journalistic Integrity

I just received this email from one of my most favorite restaurants. It pains me to see one of our esteemed (I'm being sarcastic here in case you can't tell) local journalists attack locally owned, small family restaurant that is passionate about what they do & strive to give their customers an experience they can't get elsewhere. Read this & then email that hack who calls himself a reporter Here's his email address: blunn@wmctv.com:

Hello Everyone!

You may have heard that recently Napa Cafe received a 69 on the health inspection and I want you to know what a bogus score it is. We have always scored in the high 80's or low 90's. The critical violations were: front door was open (while the servers were setting up the outdoor tables), the butter was at room temperature (softened for the table bread), and our dishwasher came in from outside and did not go straight to the sink to wash his hands-( he stopped to pick up the empty lettuce box that the cook had just emptied). These 3 deductions resulted in 15 points! The other points deducted ranged from no label on the pecans( in clear ziplock bags )to brooms stored on the floor and not hanging. The inspection was conducted 15 days ago and they reinspected only to bring it to an 85 which is the most they could possibly give me with the system they have in place. I want to assure you that we take health regulations very seriously not because of a score but because I want a safe and healthy environment for all of my employees and all of my customers.

The inspection process has always been unsettling. The inconsistencies are alarming to put it mildly. The rules change without notice and each inspector has their own interpretation of these rules. I have to admit that it wasn't until this recent score did I decide to get proactive.

I received an e-mail from the Memphis Restaurant Association yesterday regarding the meeting they are having with them today. The inconsistency is such a huge problem regardless if a restaurant fails or not.

And to add fuel to the fire Bill Lunn from Channel 5 could not wait to report that an East Memphis upscale restaurant was going to be on his segment. He did not contact me for a statement.

I appreciate your business very much and if you have any questions please contact me.

Sincerely,

Glenda

901-683-0441

*The e-mail sent by the Memphis Restaurant Association.*

Dear MRA Restaurant Member, Wight and I will be meeting with the Health Department this Friday, October 10th to discuss inspection procedures and regulations. We would like to have feedback from you about your recent experience with your Health Inspector to take into our meeting. All input is welcome (positive and/or negative). What was your overall impression of your most recent inspection? How does it compare with past inspections? Do you have specific suggestions as to how future interactions with Health Inspectors can be improved upon? Rest assured that your anonymity will be protected. Please e-mail me at eli.cloud@gmail.com with your feedback. Warmest regards, Eli Cloud Memphis Restaurant Association Member Relations Director 871-3713 eli.cloud@gmail.com

The Great Lionello Marchesi

I'm not gonna lie, what's the point? You read this so you know. I am absolutely infatuated with Italian wines. This week I met & tasted with one of my idols, Lionello Marchesi. His love of the sangiovese grape is evident in his sublimely beautiful wines. I truly admire not only the exquisite quality of his wines but also his focus on showcasing this beautiful grape at all price points. As much as I hate to admit, we are in an economic crisis. Its nice to have options in the wine world across all price points. Lionello started me with his basic sangiovese 2006 (approximately $15 retail). The color was typical of the grape, dark ruby with an orange-red tint at the rim. It had the traditional nose & palate of Italian spice & cranberry. Next up was the Chianti Superiore 2006 (approximately $18.99) a classic example of the great Chianti district. It was on the darker side for a Chianti, but expressed the spicy clove, fennel, red berry nose I've come to expect from that region. The palate had significant weight & grip with a lusciously dark flavor & a bright beautiful acid. The next to be poured was a 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva (approximately $30.99). It was a dark, velvety beauty with supple tannins, licorice & black fruit flavors. Next was the 2005 Rosso di Montalcino ($?). As you fellow cork dorks know this is the baby Brunello. The Sangiovese Grosso grape used for Brunello is aged for less time & then released as Rosso di Montalcino. Its a perfect wine for an introduction into the beauty that is the Brunello. The Rosso has excellent concentration, a dark viscous texture with a smoky clove, fennel & dark licorice aroma & flavor. The tannins were pronounced due to its youth but they were integrated enough to be balanced.

I could hardly wait to get to my baby, the Brunello di Montalcino. I was a bit apprehensive about it given that it was a 2003 & that vintage was excessively hot all over Europe. That heat led to a lot of wines expressing roasted or cooked fruit nuances which to me overpower a typically elegant & balanced wine. This was not the case with this wine. Marchesi explained that his Brunello vineyards were very high up & their altitude saved them from being subjected to the monstrous heat of '03. Its color was dark purple with a red/rust tint to the rim. On the nose were aromas of fennel, clove, smoke, blackberry & a violet note. The palate was rich, supple bodied, ripe with layers & layers of sensually textured tannins & dark fruit. This Brunello didn't disappoint at all, it had a finish that just wouldn't let go. It kept going & going & going & left a lasting impression of dark spice & black fruit & a hint of soil as well.

Go out & support the economy! Buy a Brunello!

Beer Glorious Beer!!!!!!

Octoberfest in October, not September like it normally is. On Thursday October 23rd Joe's Wines is hosting an Octoberfest beer tasting at the Cotton Museum (65 Union Avenue) in Downtown Memphis. They will be pouring approximately 25 beers for sampling alongside some hearty Autumn fare. Tickets are $20/person. To purchase a spot, you may stop by the store, 1681 Poplar, or call 901.725.4252. For all you beer fanatics out there, this is not a tasting to miss. All your favorite craft breweries will be represented alongside some new houses that are just now being represented in Memphis. There is limited space available so act fast! Beer, brats...what else could be better??

The Love Affair Continues

As readers of this blog know, I am an absolute sucker for Austrian wines. Totally in love, can't get enough, can't live without, enamored....all that.

I truly feel that Austria is one of the most exciting, if not THE most exciting, wine growing regions in the world today.

Stift Goettweig has been producing wine for, oh about forever. They are producing some of the best gruner veltliner out there. At approximately 14% alcohol the Gottschelle gruner is among the ripest styles on the market. If it was a Wachau it would definitely be a Smaragd designated wine for sure (meaning the ripest). In the glass, this wine is richly golden with a viscous quality as it swirls around. The nose is laden with lemon & lime peel, slate, chalk, limestone, apricot & peach skin. On the palate is a rich texture, vibrant acidity, flavors of white peach, lemon curd & only hints of the residual sugar that the ripe alcohol level implies. The finish just sails on & on & on....& on. This is a wine that lingers for days. It would be perfect with bouillabaisse, seared scallops on a white bean & garlic saute, or shrimp & grits.

At $32.99 (at Joe's Wines in Midtown) it is on the more expensive side but there is absolutely no doubt in my mind that its worth every single penny.

Happy Birthday

What better excuse than a birthday to cook up something delicious & pop open wines that I've been DYING to open. In honor of Richie's 28th bday, I braised some free range lamb shanks in wine, stock, celery, onions, garlic, tomatoes, basil & oregano for about 9 hours. I took the lamb out of the braising liquid & reduced it by 2/3 to make a rich & savory sauce. On the side I served cauliflower that I roasted in the oven with cream, wine, garlic & onions. It almost came out like risotto. This meal called for something special, something earthy & spicy. So I popped open a 1995 Tinto Pesquera from Ribera del Duero, Spain & a 1997 Paterno II from Azienda Agricola Il Paradiso in Tuscany.

The Pesquera was laden with a mysterious spice & dense with earthy aromas. It smelled of dark, dried soil & rocky clay. The aroma was thick with clove, cinnamon bark, dried fennel seed, lavender & dried plum. The palate had mellowed over time. I could tell that upon release this baby was a little monster. Its tannins were soft & near disappearing, but when sipped with a bite of lamb, oh ....my. A wonderful pairing. The wines dried fruit & spice played off the gaminess of the lamb in a terribly good way.

I thought it couldn't get any better, but then I tasted the 1997 Paterno II. Oh....my....goodness. I haven't lucky enough to taste enough wines for so called "Classic" vintages. Not as much as I would like anyway. If this wine is any indication then everything you have read about the '97 vintage in Tuscany is without a doubt true. The first sniff of my glass was thick with barnyard, which gave way to fennel spice, violet, rosemary, dried currant, light graphite....it just went on & on! On the palate was a rich, super supple texture that caressed its way across & up & down my mouth. It gave flavors of blackberry, basil, clove, cinnamon, dried thyme, smoke & dried cherry. The finish just kept....on.....going. I was sad when I finished my glass. Because I knew there was no more to be had.

Dinner this Thursday at Tsunami

Joe's Wines, 1681 Poplar, 901.725.4252 is hosting a wine dinner at Tsunami this Thursday. See below:

Thursday September 25th at 6:30 p.m. we are hosting Phillippe Bourgeois of Bourgeois Family Selections at Tsunami Restaurant. Phillippe will be leading us through a tasting of his top-quality wines paired with the magnificent cuisine of Chef Ben Smith. All of the wines that Bourgeois Family Selections imports are at the very least sustainably farmed with most either organic or biodynamic. Phillippe's extensive portfolio is comprised of small family growers (one has only 8 acres) finally bottling their own wines instead of selling grapes off to larger negociants. These wines represent the value and quality of French wines prior to a decade of price increases. Cost to attend this dinner is $65 (including tax & gratuity). There will be special discounts given for orders placed that evening. Our last wine dinner at Tsunami sold out in 2 DAYS so act fast. To purchase a seat, please stop by the store or call and purchase your tickets over the phone (901.725.4252). There are only 22 seats available. Don't miss out on the opportunity to interact with the man who is importing some of the most exciting wines in the market served alongside with Chef Ben Smith's excellent cuisine. The menu is as follows:

Aperitif

Domaine de Ballade Sauvignon Blanc-Colombard 2006 Cotes de Gascogne

Seared sea scallops with saffron beurre blanc and curry zucchini noodles.

Le Drunk Rooster Chardonnay 2007 Vin de Pays

Pepper crusted tuna with warm strawberry vinaigrette/salsa.

In Fin Rose 2007 Cotes du Ventoux

Roasted duck breast with Parmesan croquettes and grilled Asian eggplant.

Domaine de la Berthete Cuvee Sensation 2006 Cotes du Rhone

Szechwan lamb with sweet potato risotto.

Domaine de Chateaumar Cuvee Bastien 2007 Cotes du Rhone

BV tasting of the century

Yesterday I was extremely lucky to attend a vertical tasting of BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve. 21 vintages were poured from 1958 - 2004. Ken Neill, who purchased a seat at the tasting through the Brooks Museum's Uncorked auction, could not attend & asked if I would like to attend in his place. Uh.......YEAH! Even if I did have plans I would have canceled them! The wines were accompanied by an absolutely fabulous 4 course lunch prepared by Chef Wally Joe & Chef Andrew Adams. Thank you, thank you, thank you Ken! Below are my notes from the tasting:

1958: ruby core to a brick-orange rim, light sediment is evident but not as much considering its age. Clarity is muddled & cloudy but typical of age. A nose, of cedar, cinnamon stick, dried cherry forest floor & almond. The palate is very elegant, light & lithe but with a lively acidity for its age, hits on the sides of my tongue with a velvet finish.

1959: light ruby core, orange-rust rim, sediment is evident. Hints at sulfur on the nose with dried plum, obviously dead. Almost pinot noir-esque on the palate with barely a whisper of spice box, hot on the finish, over.

1961: sludgy, rust colored, looks dead. Roasted overcooked fruit on the nose with a funky, sulfur influenced aroma. The palate is tart, tastes of chambourcin. Dead.

1967: garnet core to a brick rim. Nose of currants, cigar box & anise.

1969: bright & clear, clean, rust colored rim, obviously filtered. Dark currant, smoke & slightly cooked fruit on the nose. Subtle, clean palate with bright acid but no mid palate. Hits at the back of the palate.

1974: Cloudy & rust colored. The nose is sulfurous with a pungent licorice/penicillin aroma. The palate is disjointed & seems astringent, hits the hard palate, acid is in line but the alcohol is hot & out of balance.

1978: Garnet color to a pink rim. Dialed down aroma, reserved, black fruits, light earth but not expressive. Soft, hot with no mid palate & unimpressive.

1979: Cloudy core, dark ruby color. Pungently dark core of spice & fruit, somewhat odd & disjointed aroma. Spice box, leather, tea, not impressive, simple & leaves the palate quite quickly.

1982: Cloudy core with a rust rim. , smells off with a pungent, sulfurous nose. Palate expresses cooked fruit with a tangy, light finish.

1985: Ruby garnet, slightly dark at the core. The nose is hot but has notes of black currant & plum. The palate is leathery, black currant, dried raspberry but falls flat on the finish.

1991: Nose of cognac, barrel spice, cedar, cigar box, leather. The palate if round, fleshy, voluptuous, spicy, coats the palate in a luscious fashion.

1992: Clean, ruby color. I found sulfur on the nose with a hint of dried berry. The palate was on the lighter side (lighter than '91) with smoky licorice with a pungent characteristic. Hits the hard palate.

1993: Nose of fill, mustard seed & cranberry. The palate is round, voluptuous, fleshy, leathery & had the most tannins of the night, so far.

1994: Spicy, anise laden nose. A rich, but not heavy, texture with a dark core of supple fruit, tea & cedar.

1995: Heavy with herbes de provence, anise & red currant on the nose. The palate is fleshy & round, big & brawny.

1997: Dark tinted core. A pungently dark, odd, cooked fennel aroma. The palate is big & brawny, the tannins are still too big. Almost overpowering.

1998: Dark ruby core of color. Almost no discernible aroma. Soft fruit. Finally...A MIDPALATE! Hints of spice box. Supple & caressing, just lovely.

1999: Light aromatic expression on the nose, simple & not very interesting. Lusciously powerful & gorgeous on the palate. The finish keeps going on & on with currants & dark blackberry.

2000: Still way too big, but has great potential.

2004: Huge & fruity. Typical Napa cab with big tannins & big black fruit. Seriously needs a steak!

New video

Check out yours truly in this romantically lit video.

By the way, McCrea is spelled wrong (sorry guys!).

La Bella Italiana!

Check out my new article here.

Italian wine tasting at Joe's

Mark your calender's. This Thursday is sure to be the mother of all Italian wine tastings. Joe's Wines will be hosting a tasting of 30-35 wines (with a beer or two) on Thursday September 4th at the Vine, 1819 Madison in BEAUTIFUL midtown Memphis, from 6:30 - 8:30 p.m. Tickets are $35, call Joe's at 901.725.4252 to purchase.

Nothing better than aged bubbles

So I wasn't feeling that well at work on Saturday. All at once I felt nauseated & as if my batteries had run down. After a few hours of keeping myself moving & hydrating I started to come back to life. As much as you all might think, no I was not hungover! I'm not sure what was wrong with me. Richie was concerned not only for my health but also for our plans. We had planned to convene at his condo with our significant others to taste some wine & cook up a tasty meal. Well, after coming back to life, we were back on track. We both were ecstatic to discover that a well aged bottle of Champagne was tucked into the bubbly cooler. Pommery Brut 1992! What a find! We were eager to pop this little beauty open. I downloaded a program called WinePad to my iPhone so I took this as an opportunity to give it a run. The wine poured a rich golden hue with a distinctive clarity, & slow, tiny bubbles. The aroma gave off apricot, nuts, toast, brioche & orange peel with notes of chalk. Richie shouted "it tastes like a triple cream cheese!". In fact it did. It also had flavors of apricot jam, macadamia nuts, artichoke & a lengthy palate that still had so much vibrant acidity.

I love it when we find hidden little gems.