VinDiVino Tasting in Chicago pt 1

Sorry that I've been away from blogging. Kelly and I made the jump and decided to adopt a new puppy. The house has felt so empty since Otis' passing and Hank was getting lonely. So we adopted a brother and sister from the Humane Society. More on that later.

Recently, I was lucky enough to go to the annual Vin diVino Grand Tasting in Chicago. All the winemakers were there pouring their incredible (yet way too young concerning the reds) wines. Enrica Scavino, Peter Zemmer, Franz Hertzberger (be still my heart), Kerstin Klamm and Gerhard Kracher to name a few.

Austria is the future. I'm telling you right now. The wines I tasted up in Chicago were the most pure, vibrant, racy, lively, honest and expressive of place that I've ever experienced. The minerality and acidity were spine-tingling. I truly was amazed. Kerstin Klamm of Domane Wachau was the first person I spoke with. As she was pouring her beautiful rieslings and gruner veltliners she explained the differences in the '05 and '06 vintages. She also led me on a virtual tour of the Domane's vineyard sites in the Wachau region. I immediately wanted to book a trip to Austria. Kerstin was very friendly and very informative. But the star was her wine. The 2006 Federspiel Gruner Veltliner is astounding in it's raciness, purity, crisp fruit and staying power. I popped open another bottle that I brought home from Joe's (1681 Poplar, 725.4252), and I was shocked at how it got better as the glass warmed up. Never once did I detect the alcohol even when the wine was room temperature.

It took every ounce of my willpower not to make a beeline for Kracher's table the moment I walked in. Kracher makes life altering dessert wines unlike anything I've ever tasted. Much to my surprise Gerhard makes a dry pinot gris and rose of zweigelt (brush up on your Austrian grapes because they are coming on strong). The '05 pinot gris was drinking beautifully with crisp acid and lovely textures. Unfortunately, I think the '06 was suffering from bottle shock. Gerhard brought it with him from Austria so it traveled quite a bit. However, once it does settle into itself it will drink beautifully. I did have to pull myself away from the table to taste more of the dry style wines. Otherwise, I would have blown my palate by diving into the stickies.

Another surprising Austrian winery was Umathum. Their dry muskat was simply a stunner. The aromas were of traditional muscat (floral, sweet fruit, candied ginger) but the wine itself was bone dry and razor sharp. It does have a hint of sweetness in the mid-palate but the prickly acidity washes it away on the finish. Incredible.

Austria is the future of wine.

A Night at the Carova Milk Bar

It had been a long while since the Carova Milk Bar had convened. Too long in fact. Michael Barar, the world renowned viola player, requested that we meet to sip and dish at Casa de Richie and Meagan. The lineup was positively drool worthy:

1. Canella NV Brut Rose of Pinot Noir
2. Clos des Lambrays Domaine des Lambrays Morey St Denis 2001
3. I Giusti e Zanza Belcore Toscana 2000
4. Loring Wine Cellars Hungry Like the Llama 2005 Pinot Noir
5. Dunham Cellars 2003 Columbia Valley Syrah
6. Mitolo Jester 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale

The Canella had a beautiful onion skin color, a toasty strawberry and raspberry nose with a crisp, light slightly creamy finish that lingered on the palate with good acidity.

Red Burgundy. What can I say that hasn't already been said? It's center was ruby with light brick rim. On the nose I found fennel, lavender, unripe cherry, tarragon and earth. The palate! Oh....my....god! Silky, supple, cherry and earth carry over from the nose, balanced acidity velvety tannins, almost no alcohol detectable, and beautiful balance. The elegance and minerality was amazing. I wrote in my notes "I can smell the plot of land this was grown on". Amazing.

Italian wines are so unique to me. The Belcore's color was a deep purple with a nose of chocolate, plum, berries, anise, earth and olive. On the palate the chocolate carries over and with it a medium body, firm tannins and the earthiness from the nose. The texture is the true star of this wine. It is soft suede and a firm ocean breeze.

The Loring Pinot Noir had a ruby color and a very new world new barrel funk of licorice, green pepper, toasted oak and hints of smoke. The palate was all cola, hazelnut, black cherry and rhubarb. It was so far from being ready to drink with huge tannins, large fruit and no secondary characteristics. But, I could discern that this wine will be incredible in about 5-10 years.

Washington is, in my opinion, producing some of the best red wine in the world. Particularly with syrah and merlot. The Dunham had a dark purple center and a ruby rim. The nose was bright with blueberry, blackberry, nutmeg, star anise, hoisin and white pepper. It was elegant and masculine at the same with beautiful textures and distinct aging potential.

And lastly we come to the Aussie, a big ass 2006 Cab from the McLaren Vale district. The nose was pure eucalyptus, menthol and chocolate. On the palate I found chocolate, mint and raspberries; but no earthiness. I was disappointed by the lack of a mid-palate, unfortunately. But quite honestly, this wine could get better if given time. Maybe.

All in all, a very fun and educational meeting of the Carova Milk Bar. Thanks Richie, Meagan, Michael, Jenn and Anna!!

Cooking for the Soul

Nothing makes me feel better than cooking a good meal. Especially when combined with good friends and great wine. When I need to fill up my home, and make it feel less lonely, the scent of sauteing garlic or the texture of raw beef in my hands does just that. This past Sunday Sabrina and I got together for a little culinary therapy. We decided not to have any preconceived ideas of what to prepare and allowed what was fresh and beautiful at the market to inspire us. That inspiration came in the form of fresh rapini, fresh morels and a beautiful NY Strip. I wish I had pictures. We salted and peppered the steaks and drizzled with olive oil. Next we grilled them rare and let them rest while we prepared the morel sauce. Sabrina reduced some veal stock and cream sherry until it was rich and concentrated. To that she added the diced morels and let them braise for a bit until their earthy flavor was permeating the liquid. As if that wasn't enough, we poured in some cream to enrich the sauce.

A dish as rich, earthy and hearty needs a wine that can stand right up to it. We opened my last 2002 Morgan Gary's Vineyard Pinot Noir and a 2003 Justin Justification. The pinot was drinking beautifully, it was silky in texture with balanced acids and absolutely no hint of alcohol. The Justin still needed time, it was still brimming with stewed fruit and fuller tannins. No secondary or tertiary aromas and flavors had developed yet. The Justin winery stated that this particular bottle should be drunk now. I should have known that they were referring to the American palate, which likes young, fruity and tannic wines. Lesson learned.

Nights like these are what are helping me get through this incredibly difficult time. Wine and food are emotions. Each sip and each bite are a celebration of Otis' life.

In Memory of Otis

I've lost my best friend. Recently, I had to endure the tragedy of having to put my dog Otis to sleep. I miss him more than I can verbalize. He was only 9 years old and should have had much more time in this world. I miss him so much. This house of ours seems painfully empty. There will never be another soul like him. I miss him. He was loved so dearly. I loved him with all my heart. This world is worse off without him.

I miss you so much Otis. We'll never, ever forget you. Every glass of wine I raise will be to you. Every crumb I drop on the floor when preparing a meal will be for you.

I miss you.

Paradise Ridge @ the Blue Fish

Date: Tuesday, May 1

Place: The Blue Fish, corner of Cooper and Young,

Time: 5-9?

Details: The owner of Paradise Ridge winery will be on hand during dinner service to interact with guests regarding their wonderful Russian River Valley wines.

I do enjoy these wines, they are worth checking out. I do however think that the Cabernet Sauvignon is not something to drink alone. It's drinking partner should be a well marbled steak. On its own it is too big for the mouth.

The Times

There is a fantastic article in the Times today click here. I love how Alice Feiring connects people and wine. Towards the end of it, I won't ruin it for the reader, she makes recommendations on what to drink with what type of person. The article is touching and well written. I found a sister in obsession when she says that her "170 bottles weren't nearly enough. I would feel comfortable with about 1,500."

Peoples lives are so interconnected, we affect each other in positive and negative ways. Hopefully with the right wine we can affect one another more positively.

Wine is

Wine tastes better with friends. It is more of everything I could ever wish it to be. Simplicity becomes complexity. Fruit becomes fresh picked and sensual. Textures turn to silk, velvet and leather. My heart swells on a wave of tannin and acidity. I love the way wine tastes when I'm tasting with someone I love. Love makes me want to share. When those that I love are in my home, I want to share the beauty of bottles with them. I want to let loose the songs that grapes have to sing. Our souls yearn for what wine can give them. We welcome it.

Recent Vino

I've had some quite amazing wines recently, that I have never had before. Lucky me, right?

Gruet Demi-Sec NV, New Mexico:
nose: light toastiness, yeasty, brioche french toast with plum preserves
palate: lightly fruity, crisp white cranberry, acidity is evident but soft

I was very pleasantly surprised with this sparkler. The winery was founded by two Champenoise, don't ask me why they settled on New Mexico. I think the term Demi-sec will be misleading to some because of its low amount of residual sugar (only 2.5g/l). To me it was less sweet than Moet's White Star.

Coturri Lost Creek Vineyard Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir 2001:
nose: hazelnut, mixed wild berry compote, lavender, crushed fresh dirt
palate: hazelnut carries over, wild blackberry, earth, pomegranate molasses, sour cherry

Coturri never ceases to blow my mind and take my palate for a roller coaster ride. We had just drank '98 Nuits St Georges before this, what an amazing contrast. To me, drinking Coturri wines is like drinking wine made one hundred years ago. They are non-interventionists.

Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Monte Vergine 1999:
nose: black currant, vanilla, light balsamic, dried rosemary, black raspberry and blueberry
palate: full mouthfeel with lively ripe tannins, big, brawny, earthy and voluptuous

Kelly summed this up perfectly by saying "this is exactly the kind of wine I like. I don't like my wine to hide".

Dishing at Dish

Just returned from Dish, and I wasn't thrilled with the service. It wasn't terrible, just not very present. The server acted as if we were an inconvenience as opposed to guests. All I'm asking for is awareness, presence and a bit of care. If you don't like your job-quit! If he was having a bad day, he needs to just suck it up and give good service. You can't bring outside baggage to your job. It is counterproductive.

I'm sure I'll still go back because I look the food and the patio. Maybe our server will be in a better mood. We'll be sure to sit in another person's section next time.

Wonders of Washington

I went to a tasting of Chateau Ste Michelle wines last night and was yet again very pleased with the quality. The Columbia Valley designated wines were the best in my opinion. At their price point they offered the best quality and level of interest. It's been said over and over but it's true, Merlot and Syrah are the two star grapes of Washington.

My favorites of the night were:

Ste Michelle Dry Riesling: New to the market. Light silver color with aromas of peach, mandarin orange and jasmine. The vibrant acidity elevates the nectarine and peach flavors and washes away what little residual sugar there is. The fruit hits in the mid palate and the wine finishes dry. Light stoniness is evident. Lovely.

Ste Michelle Horse Heaven Sauvignon Blanc: Pale straw color with aromas of lemon peel, lime and light stone. Slightly creamy on the palate which leads into bright acid. The finish lingers with lemon and grapefruit. Pair with meaty/flaky grilled fish with a grapefruit salsa.

Ste Michelle Rose (95% Syrah, 3% Mourvedre 2% Viognier): Bright pink/purple color with a nose of mixed berries and light hints of cinnamon/clove. The fruit hits sweet on the palate and lingers but the acidity is high enough as to wash that all away and keeps it from being cloying. Full bodied for a rose. Pair with grilled chicken.

Stella Maris Red "Star of the Sea": Dark purple color with aromas of spice, dark fruits and leather. The black fruits carry over to the palate along with dried meat and spices. The tannins are evident and balanced. Very plush. Fantastic. Worth every penny of the $30 price tag. Pair with grilled lamb or beef, and dried meat (Jamon Serrano, Breasola, Speck).

The Snoqualmie line of wines were insipid and hollow. But what can be expected for their under $10 price?

Ste Michelle Estates produces excellent wines. Seek them out. The good news is that they are readily available and affordable.

Can't Live Without (culinary edition)

Things I can't live without:

1. Henckels Santoku Chef's Knife
2. Butcher Block cutting board
3. Garlic
4. Champagne/Sparkling Wine
5. Syrah
6. Red cast-iron Dutch Oven
7. Olive Oil
8. Spiegelau wine glasses
9. Chefmate wine fridge
10. Onions
11. Stainless steel skillet
12. Cheese
13. Chocolate
14. Pomegranate Molasses
15. Vinegar (balsamic, red wine, etc.)
    
16. Tokaji
17. Puff pastry
18. Dried cherries
19. Beef
20. Lamb
21. Duck
22. Scallops
23. Clams
24. Saffron
25. Rice
26. Maldon Sea Salt
27. Tuna
28. Nuts
29. Chateauneuf-du Pape
30. Gas Stove

This list could go on and on, but I think it's starting to get out of control.

What can't you live without?

Family Dinner pt 2.

Angela and Mick came over for dinner Sunday night. I decided that a mix of fussy and comfort was in order. We hadn't seen them in 3 years so I thought that something special was just right. I began by making a paste of fresh thyme, fresh garlic, olive oil, Au Bon Climat Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir, salt & pepper. I took this paste and rubbed it all over 2 beautiful NY Strip Steaks, letting them sit for over 2 hours. With the steaks, I prepared a dutch oven full of fresh cauliflower, onion, garlic, thyme, cream, white wine and stock. This casserole roasted away for roughly an hour. Next was the salad, simple one of fresh baby spinach and a balsamic-pomegranate vinaigrette.

Kelly had just purchased a new tv and rug for the living room, so we obviously were waiting to show that off.

They arrived, finally. We quickly realized that it had been almost 3 years since we had seen each other last. Instantly we vowed never to let that much time pass before getting together again. I had a small cheese and olive plate prepared to snack on while dinner was being prepared. Two of my favorite cheeses, Croutin du Chavignol (an aged mold ripened french goat cheese) and young Manchego ( a Spanish sheep's milk cheese) and mixed Italian olives were the snack. Both the cheeses and the olives paired wonderfully with the Alfred Gratien NV Epernay Champagne that we popped open. The creamy mousse of the Champagne and its crispness paired beautifully with the cheeses. The salty olives elevated the fruit in the bubbly.

After pulling the steaks off the grill and slicing them up, beautifully rare, it was time for dinner. The cauliflower was tender and rich, a perfect contrast to the earthiness of the beef. With it we drank a bottle of 1999 Selvamaggio Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany. Seek this bottle out, Neil Empson Selections.

Dessert was a puff pastry tartlet filled with roasted pears, Bleu d'Auvergne cheese, toasted walnuts and honey. My theory was that it would pair perfectly with a late Harvest Muscat from Foris. My theory proved correct, the honeyed nectar-like sweetness was a perfect match for the pairs and contrasted the saltiness of the cheese. The acidity in the wine cut right through the richness of the cheese as well. Even Kelly liked it and he despises dessert wines. All the more for me.

All in all it was a lovely evening. I can't wait to see Angela and Mick again. I missed how Angela can laugh so hard that she makes herself cry. The food and wine was a catalyst for the laughter.

Family Dinner

Kelly has invited some friends over for dinner this Sunday and I'm contemplating what to cook. Sometimes I attempt something a bit elaborate and fussy, but this time I think it will be different. It's finally winter, my favorite season, and this season makes me want to prepare meals that wrap themselves around you. Sometimes elaborate food is no match for the warmth and comfort of a roast chicken with crisp and tender oven kissed vegetables. The whole process is enlivening. From the readying of the chicken for the oven, to the scents that drive spikes of memory into my entire being, to the succulent end product. Nothing says welcome to my home better than that.

The Dance

I've just returned from seeing a performance by Ballet Memphis. They are some of the most talented and inspiring artists I've ever seen. We are truly lucky to have creativity of this caliber in our city. What does dance have to do with wine and food? Well, creativity in every realm inspires us to think greater things and to think more creatively in our own industry. Sitting there watching these beautiful bodies sculpt a piece of art through movement inspired me to think of wine in many different ways. It made me think of the the ballet that winemakers dance with their grapes when creating a cuvee. It made me think of the dance that wine performs with food. And it made me think of how moved I can be by a truly special bottle of wine.

I will continue to support Ballet Memphis and I hope that the rest of the city of Memphis does as well. Cheers!

Umai

Just got back from a great meal at Umai, the new asian-french fusion restaurant in the old On Teur space on Madison Ave. I searched for their website but I guess they do not have one. The space is cool and hip in a Japanese grafitti/New York vibe kind of way. The music was way too loud but it's Midtown so I guess that's expected. My friend Jeff and I split the Spinach Gyoza stuffed with a mushroom duxelle, the poached cod over choi sam in carrot curry broth and the lobster dumplings. The standout was without a doubt the Gyoza. They were moist and just firm enough with a big mushroom flavor that was cut with soy. Perfectly done. The cod was buttery and an excellent contrast to the char on the choi sam and the spice in the curry broth. The carrot's sweetness wonderfully counterbalanced the heat in the curry. The wine list was small but nicely complimented the menu and decor. Prices were good and so were the portions. Not too big not too small. They got busy towards the end of our meal, which was nice to see. Everything about this place, from the asian newspaper wallpaper in the bathroom to the warm wood bar tables and bamboo wall design, makes me want it to succeed. Check it out!

Language

I'm watching "Mondovino" for what seems like the 15th time. This documentary is absolutely enthralling, moving, informative and entertaining. However, for some reason my subtitles aren't working so I have to watch it without. Most of the movie is in either French or Italian. But there is something about wine that transcends language. Yes I may not understand what these people are saying but I can feel what they are trying to convey. The scenery is incredible, the passion of these people is palpable. Why is it that grapes can only be grown in the most beautiful places in the world? Wine isn't just a beverage it's a food, it isn't just a food it's a philosophy. With that philosophy we can bridge differences in culture and language. I truly believe that wine and food is one of the most powerful forces on earth.

Keep to yourself

I just got back from a pretty rough dining experience. Kelly and I went to Bari for a nice Italian meal. Bari is always wonderful and I will continue to go there. However, we neglected to ask to be sat in the non-obnoxious asshole section. Not 10 minutes into our dinner we were already annoyed by how loud and grating the table next to us was. These grown adults (all above 60, or at least looked it) behaved like children. One nasty little fur-laden lady yipped about an experience at the plastic surgeon (she obviously ordered the wrong procedure) before launching into how to cheat the political primaries. Across the table her dining partner went on and on about dressing his daugther up like a tramp for some dance number they were to perform in front of his friends. Ick. They then followed us into the bar (where we attempted to escape them) and continued to terrorize us and the poor innocent bar patrons. Two women actually left the bar to sit outside in the cold while they finished their wine, just to escape these excruciating individuals. Uggh.

The moral of this story is keep to yourself when dining out. Don't allow your bullshit to spill over to other tables.

Beautiful Night, Beautiful Bounty

It's the holidays, time for indulgence. I pulled up to Sabrina's with two bottles of wine and a cauliflower gratin. My contributions were a Non-vintage Guy Larmandier Rose Brut and a 1993 Tokay Aszu 5 Puttonyos. Sabrina had already opened a 1995 Gruet Blanc de Blanc and a 2003 Wehlener Sonnenur Riesling Kabinett from SA Prum. Joining us were Alan and Susanna, Patrick and Tara, Hilary, Jossiene, Eric and Marc. We nibbled on Smoked Coho, King and Keta Salmon all pairing beautifully with the acidity and toastiness of the Gruet. Next we popped the Guy Larmandier. The beautiful aroma carried dried raspberries, biscuit and slate with a bracing acidity that cut through the richness of salmon AND hummus. Jossiene has been tutoring me in properly pronouncing French. She is from the Juras region of France but has lived here in the States for many years. After successfully pronouncing the Champagne label Sabrina looked at Patrick and said "We won't be able to work with him from now on". I am bad at correcting people. . .I guess. Eric pulled the leg of lamb off the grill to rest as we sat down to the table and surveyed the other bottles. Patrick and Tara provided a 1996 Chateau La Cardone Haut-Medoc (which oddly enough was predominantly Merlot), Alan and Susanna brought a 2000 Andre Brunel Les Sambiches Cotes-du-Rhone Villages, our good friend Brett (who wasn't present) gave us a 2004 Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Rouge AND a 2003 Treana Rouge, Sabrina whisked out of her cellar a 1995 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino and a 2005 Renwood Amador Ice Zinfandel. What a lineup!

We began with the Tablas Creek, it gave off aromas of cranberry and pomegranate and light smoke. On the palate the acid was bright but the alcohol was high. Maybe if we gave the bottle a bit more time to air the alcohol would have dissipated somewhat. The Treana, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah, was big, full-bodied and packed with berry jam. The nose had cocoa, blackberries and light earth. On the palate I tasted coffee, blackberry and chocolate covered raspberries that were carried by heavy tannins. The Andre Brunel delivered heavy aromas of earth, fennel, and dark stone influenced fruit. These aromas carried over to the palate (god bless old world wines) and screamed out for the lamb.

Hitting their stride, the old world wines of the lineup got better and better. The Argiano 1995 Brunello di Montalcino gave forth barnyard, cranberry, sage and lavender on the nose. The flavors of leather, dried red cherry, and dried herbs paired well with the lamb. Each bite and sip combined into one new, dare I say transcendent, flavor. The 1996 Chateau la Cardone Haut Medoc had a nose of cigar box, cedar, dried meat and dried berries with a rich luscious finish. The palate displayed earth, graphite and vibrant tannins that lingered and lingered.

All of these wines were so amazing, rare, beautiful and engaging. They paired wonderfully all of the dishes: cauliflower gratin with cream, garlic and gruyere; sweet potato puree with rosemary; and a lovely, earthy roasted lamb studded with garlic.

After dinner we had a glorious spread of artisanal cheeses such as Cabrales (Spain), Roaring 40's (Australia) and Humboldt Fog (California). The cheeses aided in showcasing the 1993 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos from Hungary. This wine was liquid sun with layers of honey, dates, caramelized sugar, flowers. . .the list goes on. It took me some time to get over just smelling it much less tasting it. The texture and acidity carried the cheese and lifted them all to another level.

As if that wasn't enough, Sabrina had prepared an espresso tart to pair with a 2005 Renwood Amador Ice Zinfandel. This cryoextracted dessert zinfandel had acid and fruit which not only cut through the richness of the tart but also amplified the smokiness of the espresso.

This meal will absolutely go down as one of the most outstanding, exceptional dinners I've ever had. I've always felt that when you get good friends together that is the basis for everything. Everything after that is icing. The food and wine held flavors that I've never experienced before.

My friends helped me taste them.

Away

As much as I'm glad to be in Memphis spending Christmas with Kelly and our dogs, I do wish I was in Indiana with my family. By now, my parents and I would have been headlong into our first bottle of Tempranillo. It would have been nice to watch my niece tear open her presents. It's okay. I'll see them in a few weeks.

Dec/Jan article

Check out my new article in the Lamplighter: www.cooperyoung.org/lamplighter.asp.

Sorry about the lack of a link. Something is not working.