The Best Champagne in the World

My friends Sabrina and Patrick recently purchased a bottle of 1988 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill Cuvee Champagne. It was quite a rare find at a local wine shop. I'm not telling you which one because I'm going to go purchase the last few bottles from them. I know, I'm being selfish. I was lucky enough to be with them when they chose to open it.

It was truly stunning. This was one of the rare wines that brought tears to my eyes. In a good way. An overwhelming feeling of elation poured over me as I took in the complex flavors and textures. The color was pure golden straw. On the nose I found brioche toast with orange marmalade, dried apricots and golden raspberry. The palate exhibited a creamy mousse with bright dried citrus peel, kettle corn and dried apricot.

What was truly impressive was the versatility of this wine. We tried it with olives, various cheeses (suprisingly enough it didn't work with the triple cream cheese), and even smoked duck. It transformed into something different to handle each different dish. Amazing.

Austrian Food and Wine Pairing Event

Event: Food and Wine pairing featuring the wines of Austria with Joe's Wines and VinDivino Imports National Sales Manager Anne Zakin

Location: Tsunami, 928 S. Cooper, 901.274.2556

Date: Monday August 27 6:30 pm

Cost: $40 per person

Info: The racy and vibrant wines of Austria will be paired with Chef Ben Smith's innovative Pacific Rim cuisine. The ripe fruit and eye-popping acidity of Austrian wines are a perfect match for the bold and clean flavors that Chef Smith's kitchen creates. To purchase tickets call Joe's Wines 901.725.4252 or stop by the store at 1681 Poplar in Midtown.

Off to Louisville

I'm off to Louisville, KY this Wednesday for a little fun with Kelly. We are staying with our very good friends Paula and Doug. I just want to eat good food, drink good wine and shop a little. Does anybody have any suggestions on where I should go????

The Tattooed Sommelier

It never ceases to amaze me how varied in appearance, socioeconomic background and culture the wine drinker can be. I myself have 4 tattoos (including one large one on my back); that doesn't really fit the stereotype for the typical wine drinker. That is the beauty of the wine world as it is today. People from all walks of life are drinking and learning and yearning to learn more about wine. There is a wine for each and every person out there. Wine drinkers cross all boundaries. That makes it so much more fun.

Except for the occasional pompous "wine ass", but those people aren't wine lovers truly. They love the status dropping names like Petrus or some other boring, tired old First Growth gives them. Or so they think. True wine lovers are explorers, they are curious, they are experimenters, they are hunters hunting that perfect bottle. The hunt can be exhilarating, especially when it ends with scoring a truly exceptional bottle.

Cork dorks know a comrade when they see one. The dead giveaway is the twinkling eyes while salivating over a gruner veltliner, nero d'avola or cortese. It's not about the next best thing, it's about exploration. We are not a trendy group. We're just unpretentious and unprejudiced when it comes to a wine's origin.

We are all tattooed by what bonds us. Some tattoos just aren't visible.

VinDiVino Tasting in Chicago pt 1

Sorry that I've been away from blogging. Kelly and I made the jump and decided to adopt a new puppy. The house has felt so empty since Otis' passing and Hank was getting lonely. So we adopted a brother and sister from the Humane Society. More on that later.

Recently, I was lucky enough to go to the annual Vin diVino Grand Tasting in Chicago. All the winemakers were there pouring their incredible (yet way too young concerning the reds) wines. Enrica Scavino, Peter Zemmer, Franz Hertzberger (be still my heart), Kerstin Klamm and Gerhard Kracher to name a few.

Austria is the future. I'm telling you right now. The wines I tasted up in Chicago were the most pure, vibrant, racy, lively, honest and expressive of place that I've ever experienced. The minerality and acidity were spine-tingling. I truly was amazed. Kerstin Klamm of Domane Wachau was the first person I spoke with. As she was pouring her beautiful rieslings and gruner veltliners she explained the differences in the '05 and '06 vintages. She also led me on a virtual tour of the Domane's vineyard sites in the Wachau region. I immediately wanted to book a trip to Austria. Kerstin was very friendly and very informative. But the star was her wine. The 2006 Federspiel Gruner Veltliner is astounding in it's raciness, purity, crisp fruit and staying power. I popped open another bottle that I brought home from Joe's (1681 Poplar, 725.4252), and I was shocked at how it got better as the glass warmed up. Never once did I detect the alcohol even when the wine was room temperature.

It took every ounce of my willpower not to make a beeline for Kracher's table the moment I walked in. Kracher makes life altering dessert wines unlike anything I've ever tasted. Much to my surprise Gerhard makes a dry pinot gris and rose of zweigelt (brush up on your Austrian grapes because they are coming on strong). The '05 pinot gris was drinking beautifully with crisp acid and lovely textures. Unfortunately, I think the '06 was suffering from bottle shock. Gerhard brought it with him from Austria so it traveled quite a bit. However, once it does settle into itself it will drink beautifully. I did have to pull myself away from the table to taste more of the dry style wines. Otherwise, I would have blown my palate by diving into the stickies.

Another surprising Austrian winery was Umathum. Their dry muskat was simply a stunner. The aromas were of traditional muscat (floral, sweet fruit, candied ginger) but the wine itself was bone dry and razor sharp. It does have a hint of sweetness in the mid-palate but the prickly acidity washes it away on the finish. Incredible.

Austria is the future of wine.

A Night at the Carova Milk Bar

It had been a long while since the Carova Milk Bar had convened. Too long in fact. Michael Barar, the world renowned viola player, requested that we meet to sip and dish at Casa de Richie and Meagan. The lineup was positively drool worthy:

1. Canella NV Brut Rose of Pinot Noir
2. Clos des Lambrays Domaine des Lambrays Morey St Denis 2001
3. I Giusti e Zanza Belcore Toscana 2000
4. Loring Wine Cellars Hungry Like the Llama 2005 Pinot Noir
5. Dunham Cellars 2003 Columbia Valley Syrah
6. Mitolo Jester 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale

The Canella had a beautiful onion skin color, a toasty strawberry and raspberry nose with a crisp, light slightly creamy finish that lingered on the palate with good acidity.

Red Burgundy. What can I say that hasn't already been said? It's center was ruby with light brick rim. On the nose I found fennel, lavender, unripe cherry, tarragon and earth. The palate! Oh....my....god! Silky, supple, cherry and earth carry over from the nose, balanced acidity velvety tannins, almost no alcohol detectable, and beautiful balance. The elegance and minerality was amazing. I wrote in my notes "I can smell the plot of land this was grown on". Amazing.

Italian wines are so unique to me. The Belcore's color was a deep purple with a nose of chocolate, plum, berries, anise, earth and olive. On the palate the chocolate carries over and with it a medium body, firm tannins and the earthiness from the nose. The texture is the true star of this wine. It is soft suede and a firm ocean breeze.

The Loring Pinot Noir had a ruby color and a very new world new barrel funk of licorice, green pepper, toasted oak and hints of smoke. The palate was all cola, hazelnut, black cherry and rhubarb. It was so far from being ready to drink with huge tannins, large fruit and no secondary characteristics. But, I could discern that this wine will be incredible in about 5-10 years.

Washington is, in my opinion, producing some of the best red wine in the world. Particularly with syrah and merlot. The Dunham had a dark purple center and a ruby rim. The nose was bright with blueberry, blackberry, nutmeg, star anise, hoisin and white pepper. It was elegant and masculine at the same with beautiful textures and distinct aging potential.

And lastly we come to the Aussie, a big ass 2006 Cab from the McLaren Vale district. The nose was pure eucalyptus, menthol and chocolate. On the palate I found chocolate, mint and raspberries; but no earthiness. I was disappointed by the lack of a mid-palate, unfortunately. But quite honestly, this wine could get better if given time. Maybe.

All in all, a very fun and educational meeting of the Carova Milk Bar. Thanks Richie, Meagan, Michael, Jenn and Anna!!

Cooking for the Soul

Nothing makes me feel better than cooking a good meal. Especially when combined with good friends and great wine. When I need to fill up my home, and make it feel less lonely, the scent of sauteing garlic or the texture of raw beef in my hands does just that. This past Sunday Sabrina and I got together for a little culinary therapy. We decided not to have any preconceived ideas of what to prepare and allowed what was fresh and beautiful at the market to inspire us. That inspiration came in the form of fresh rapini, fresh morels and a beautiful NY Strip. I wish I had pictures. We salted and peppered the steaks and drizzled with olive oil. Next we grilled them rare and let them rest while we prepared the morel sauce. Sabrina reduced some veal stock and cream sherry until it was rich and concentrated. To that she added the diced morels and let them braise for a bit until their earthy flavor was permeating the liquid. As if that wasn't enough, we poured in some cream to enrich the sauce.

A dish as rich, earthy and hearty needs a wine that can stand right up to it. We opened my last 2002 Morgan Gary's Vineyard Pinot Noir and a 2003 Justin Justification. The pinot was drinking beautifully, it was silky in texture with balanced acids and absolutely no hint of alcohol. The Justin still needed time, it was still brimming with stewed fruit and fuller tannins. No secondary or tertiary aromas and flavors had developed yet. The Justin winery stated that this particular bottle should be drunk now. I should have known that they were referring to the American palate, which likes young, fruity and tannic wines. Lesson learned.

Nights like these are what are helping me get through this incredibly difficult time. Wine and food are emotions. Each sip and each bite are a celebration of Otis' life.

In Memory of Otis

I've lost my best friend. Recently, I had to endure the tragedy of having to put my dog Otis to sleep. I miss him more than I can verbalize. He was only 9 years old and should have had much more time in this world. I miss him so much. This house of ours seems painfully empty. There will never be another soul like him. I miss him. He was loved so dearly. I loved him with all my heart. This world is worse off without him.

I miss you so much Otis. We'll never, ever forget you. Every glass of wine I raise will be to you. Every crumb I drop on the floor when preparing a meal will be for you.

I miss you.

Paradise Ridge @ the Blue Fish

Date: Tuesday, May 1

Place: The Blue Fish, corner of Cooper and Young,

Time: 5-9?

Details: The owner of Paradise Ridge winery will be on hand during dinner service to interact with guests regarding their wonderful Russian River Valley wines.

I do enjoy these wines, they are worth checking out. I do however think that the Cabernet Sauvignon is not something to drink alone. It's drinking partner should be a well marbled steak. On its own it is too big for the mouth.

The Times

There is a fantastic article in the Times today click here. I love how Alice Feiring connects people and wine. Towards the end of it, I won't ruin it for the reader, she makes recommendations on what to drink with what type of person. The article is touching and well written. I found a sister in obsession when she says that her "170 bottles weren't nearly enough. I would feel comfortable with about 1,500."

Peoples lives are so interconnected, we affect each other in positive and negative ways. Hopefully with the right wine we can affect one another more positively.

Wine is

Wine tastes better with friends. It is more of everything I could ever wish it to be. Simplicity becomes complexity. Fruit becomes fresh picked and sensual. Textures turn to silk, velvet and leather. My heart swells on a wave of tannin and acidity. I love the way wine tastes when I'm tasting with someone I love. Love makes me want to share. When those that I love are in my home, I want to share the beauty of bottles with them. I want to let loose the songs that grapes have to sing. Our souls yearn for what wine can give them. We welcome it.

Recent Vino

I've had some quite amazing wines recently, that I have never had before. Lucky me, right?

Gruet Demi-Sec NV, New Mexico:
nose: light toastiness, yeasty, brioche french toast with plum preserves
palate: lightly fruity, crisp white cranberry, acidity is evident but soft

I was very pleasantly surprised with this sparkler. The winery was founded by two Champenoise, don't ask me why they settled on New Mexico. I think the term Demi-sec will be misleading to some because of its low amount of residual sugar (only 2.5g/l). To me it was less sweet than Moet's White Star.

Coturri Lost Creek Vineyard Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir 2001:
nose: hazelnut, mixed wild berry compote, lavender, crushed fresh dirt
palate: hazelnut carries over, wild blackberry, earth, pomegranate molasses, sour cherry

Coturri never ceases to blow my mind and take my palate for a roller coaster ride. We had just drank '98 Nuits St Georges before this, what an amazing contrast. To me, drinking Coturri wines is like drinking wine made one hundred years ago. They are non-interventionists.

Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Monte Vergine 1999:
nose: black currant, vanilla, light balsamic, dried rosemary, black raspberry and blueberry
palate: full mouthfeel with lively ripe tannins, big, brawny, earthy and voluptuous

Kelly summed this up perfectly by saying "this is exactly the kind of wine I like. I don't like my wine to hide".

Dishing at Dish

Just returned from Dish, and I wasn't thrilled with the service. It wasn't terrible, just not very present. The server acted as if we were an inconvenience as opposed to guests. All I'm asking for is awareness, presence and a bit of care. If you don't like your job-quit! If he was having a bad day, he needs to just suck it up and give good service. You can't bring outside baggage to your job. It is counterproductive.

I'm sure I'll still go back because I look the food and the patio. Maybe our server will be in a better mood. We'll be sure to sit in another person's section next time.

Wonders of Washington

I went to a tasting of Chateau Ste Michelle wines last night and was yet again very pleased with the quality. The Columbia Valley designated wines were the best in my opinion. At their price point they offered the best quality and level of interest. It's been said over and over but it's true, Merlot and Syrah are the two star grapes of Washington.

My favorites of the night were:

Ste Michelle Dry Riesling: New to the market. Light silver color with aromas of peach, mandarin orange and jasmine. The vibrant acidity elevates the nectarine and peach flavors and washes away what little residual sugar there is. The fruit hits in the mid palate and the wine finishes dry. Light stoniness is evident. Lovely.

Ste Michelle Horse Heaven Sauvignon Blanc: Pale straw color with aromas of lemon peel, lime and light stone. Slightly creamy on the palate which leads into bright acid. The finish lingers with lemon and grapefruit. Pair with meaty/flaky grilled fish with a grapefruit salsa.

Ste Michelle Rose (95% Syrah, 3% Mourvedre 2% Viognier): Bright pink/purple color with a nose of mixed berries and light hints of cinnamon/clove. The fruit hits sweet on the palate and lingers but the acidity is high enough as to wash that all away and keeps it from being cloying. Full bodied for a rose. Pair with grilled chicken.

Stella Maris Red "Star of the Sea": Dark purple color with aromas of spice, dark fruits and leather. The black fruits carry over to the palate along with dried meat and spices. The tannins are evident and balanced. Very plush. Fantastic. Worth every penny of the $30 price tag. Pair with grilled lamb or beef, and dried meat (Jamon Serrano, Breasola, Speck).

The Snoqualmie line of wines were insipid and hollow. But what can be expected for their under $10 price?

Ste Michelle Estates produces excellent wines. Seek them out. The good news is that they are readily available and affordable.

Can't Live Without (culinary edition)

Things I can't live without:

1. Henckels Santoku Chef's Knife
2. Butcher Block cutting board
3. Garlic
4. Champagne/Sparkling Wine
5. Syrah
6. Red cast-iron Dutch Oven
7. Olive Oil
8. Spiegelau wine glasses
9. Chefmate wine fridge
10. Onions
11. Stainless steel skillet
12. Cheese
13. Chocolate
14. Pomegranate Molasses
15. Vinegar (balsamic, red wine, etc.)
    
16. Tokaji
17. Puff pastry
18. Dried cherries
19. Beef
20. Lamb
21. Duck
22. Scallops
23. Clams
24. Saffron
25. Rice
26. Maldon Sea Salt
27. Tuna
28. Nuts
29. Chateauneuf-du Pape
30. Gas Stove

This list could go on and on, but I think it's starting to get out of control.

What can't you live without?

Family Dinner pt 2.

Angela and Mick came over for dinner Sunday night. I decided that a mix of fussy and comfort was in order. We hadn't seen them in 3 years so I thought that something special was just right. I began by making a paste of fresh thyme, fresh garlic, olive oil, Au Bon Climat Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir, salt & pepper. I took this paste and rubbed it all over 2 beautiful NY Strip Steaks, letting them sit for over 2 hours. With the steaks, I prepared a dutch oven full of fresh cauliflower, onion, garlic, thyme, cream, white wine and stock. This casserole roasted away for roughly an hour. Next was the salad, simple one of fresh baby spinach and a balsamic-pomegranate vinaigrette.

Kelly had just purchased a new tv and rug for the living room, so we obviously were waiting to show that off.

They arrived, finally. We quickly realized that it had been almost 3 years since we had seen each other last. Instantly we vowed never to let that much time pass before getting together again. I had a small cheese and olive plate prepared to snack on while dinner was being prepared. Two of my favorite cheeses, Croutin du Chavignol (an aged mold ripened french goat cheese) and young Manchego ( a Spanish sheep's milk cheese) and mixed Italian olives were the snack. Both the cheeses and the olives paired wonderfully with the Alfred Gratien NV Epernay Champagne that we popped open. The creamy mousse of the Champagne and its crispness paired beautifully with the cheeses. The salty olives elevated the fruit in the bubbly.

After pulling the steaks off the grill and slicing them up, beautifully rare, it was time for dinner. The cauliflower was tender and rich, a perfect contrast to the earthiness of the beef. With it we drank a bottle of 1999 Selvamaggio Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany. Seek this bottle out, Neil Empson Selections.

Dessert was a puff pastry tartlet filled with roasted pears, Bleu d'Auvergne cheese, toasted walnuts and honey. My theory was that it would pair perfectly with a late Harvest Muscat from Foris. My theory proved correct, the honeyed nectar-like sweetness was a perfect match for the pairs and contrasted the saltiness of the cheese. The acidity in the wine cut right through the richness of the cheese as well. Even Kelly liked it and he despises dessert wines. All the more for me.

All in all it was a lovely evening. I can't wait to see Angela and Mick again. I missed how Angela can laugh so hard that she makes herself cry. The food and wine was a catalyst for the laughter.

Family Dinner

Kelly has invited some friends over for dinner this Sunday and I'm contemplating what to cook. Sometimes I attempt something a bit elaborate and fussy, but this time I think it will be different. It's finally winter, my favorite season, and this season makes me want to prepare meals that wrap themselves around you. Sometimes elaborate food is no match for the warmth and comfort of a roast chicken with crisp and tender oven kissed vegetables. The whole process is enlivening. From the readying of the chicken for the oven, to the scents that drive spikes of memory into my entire being, to the succulent end product. Nothing says welcome to my home better than that.

The Dance

I've just returned from seeing a performance by Ballet Memphis. They are some of the most talented and inspiring artists I've ever seen. We are truly lucky to have creativity of this caliber in our city. What does dance have to do with wine and food? Well, creativity in every realm inspires us to think greater things and to think more creatively in our own industry. Sitting there watching these beautiful bodies sculpt a piece of art through movement inspired me to think of wine in many different ways. It made me think of the the ballet that winemakers dance with their grapes when creating a cuvee. It made me think of the dance that wine performs with food. And it made me think of how moved I can be by a truly special bottle of wine.

I will continue to support Ballet Memphis and I hope that the rest of the city of Memphis does as well. Cheers!

Umai

Just got back from a great meal at Umai, the new asian-french fusion restaurant in the old On Teur space on Madison Ave. I searched for their website but I guess they do not have one. The space is cool and hip in a Japanese grafitti/New York vibe kind of way. The music was way too loud but it's Midtown so I guess that's expected. My friend Jeff and I split the Spinach Gyoza stuffed with a mushroom duxelle, the poached cod over choi sam in carrot curry broth and the lobster dumplings. The standout was without a doubt the Gyoza. They were moist and just firm enough with a big mushroom flavor that was cut with soy. Perfectly done. The cod was buttery and an excellent contrast to the char on the choi sam and the spice in the curry broth. The carrot's sweetness wonderfully counterbalanced the heat in the curry. The wine list was small but nicely complimented the menu and decor. Prices were good and so were the portions. Not too big not too small. They got busy towards the end of our meal, which was nice to see. Everything about this place, from the asian newspaper wallpaper in the bathroom to the warm wood bar tables and bamboo wall design, makes me want it to succeed. Check it out!

Language

I'm watching "Mondovino" for what seems like the 15th time. This documentary is absolutely enthralling, moving, informative and entertaining. However, for some reason my subtitles aren't working so I have to watch it without. Most of the movie is in either French or Italian. But there is something about wine that transcends language. Yes I may not understand what these people are saying but I can feel what they are trying to convey. The scenery is incredible, the passion of these people is palpable. Why is it that grapes can only be grown in the most beautiful places in the world? Wine isn't just a beverage it's a food, it isn't just a food it's a philosophy. With that philosophy we can bridge differences in culture and language. I truly believe that wine and food is one of the most powerful forces on earth.

Keep to yourself

I just got back from a pretty rough dining experience. Kelly and I went to Bari for a nice Italian meal. Bari is always wonderful and I will continue to go there. However, we neglected to ask to be sat in the non-obnoxious asshole section. Not 10 minutes into our dinner we were already annoyed by how loud and grating the table next to us was. These grown adults (all above 60, or at least looked it) behaved like children. One nasty little fur-laden lady yipped about an experience at the plastic surgeon (she obviously ordered the wrong procedure) before launching into how to cheat the political primaries. Across the table her dining partner went on and on about dressing his daugther up like a tramp for some dance number they were to perform in front of his friends. Ick. They then followed us into the bar (where we attempted to escape them) and continued to terrorize us and the poor innocent bar patrons. Two women actually left the bar to sit outside in the cold while they finished their wine, just to escape these excruciating individuals. Uggh.

The moral of this story is keep to yourself when dining out. Don't allow your bullshit to spill over to other tables.

Beautiful Night, Beautiful Bounty

It's the holidays, time for indulgence. I pulled up to Sabrina's with two bottles of wine and a cauliflower gratin. My contributions were a Non-vintage Guy Larmandier Rose Brut and a 1993 Tokay Aszu 5 Puttonyos. Sabrina had already opened a 1995 Gruet Blanc de Blanc and a 2003 Wehlener Sonnenur Riesling Kabinett from SA Prum. Joining us were Alan and Susanna, Patrick and Tara, Hilary, Jossiene, Eric and Marc. We nibbled on Smoked Coho, King and Keta Salmon all pairing beautifully with the acidity and toastiness of the Gruet. Next we popped the Guy Larmandier. The beautiful aroma carried dried raspberries, biscuit and slate with a bracing acidity that cut through the richness of salmon AND hummus. Jossiene has been tutoring me in properly pronouncing French. She is from the Juras region of France but has lived here in the States for many years. After successfully pronouncing the Champagne label Sabrina looked at Patrick and said "We won't be able to work with him from now on". I am bad at correcting people. . .I guess. Eric pulled the leg of lamb off the grill to rest as we sat down to the table and surveyed the other bottles. Patrick and Tara provided a 1996 Chateau La Cardone Haut-Medoc (which oddly enough was predominantly Merlot), Alan and Susanna brought a 2000 Andre Brunel Les Sambiches Cotes-du-Rhone Villages, our good friend Brett (who wasn't present) gave us a 2004 Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Rouge AND a 2003 Treana Rouge, Sabrina whisked out of her cellar a 1995 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino and a 2005 Renwood Amador Ice Zinfandel. What a lineup!

We began with the Tablas Creek, it gave off aromas of cranberry and pomegranate and light smoke. On the palate the acid was bright but the alcohol was high. Maybe if we gave the bottle a bit more time to air the alcohol would have dissipated somewhat. The Treana, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah, was big, full-bodied and packed with berry jam. The nose had cocoa, blackberries and light earth. On the palate I tasted coffee, blackberry and chocolate covered raspberries that were carried by heavy tannins. The Andre Brunel delivered heavy aromas of earth, fennel, and dark stone influenced fruit. These aromas carried over to the palate (god bless old world wines) and screamed out for the lamb.

Hitting their stride, the old world wines of the lineup got better and better. The Argiano 1995 Brunello di Montalcino gave forth barnyard, cranberry, sage and lavender on the nose. The flavors of leather, dried red cherry, and dried herbs paired well with the lamb. Each bite and sip combined into one new, dare I say transcendent, flavor. The 1996 Chateau la Cardone Haut Medoc had a nose of cigar box, cedar, dried meat and dried berries with a rich luscious finish. The palate displayed earth, graphite and vibrant tannins that lingered and lingered.

All of these wines were so amazing, rare, beautiful and engaging. They paired wonderfully all of the dishes: cauliflower gratin with cream, garlic and gruyere; sweet potato puree with rosemary; and a lovely, earthy roasted lamb studded with garlic.

After dinner we had a glorious spread of artisanal cheeses such as Cabrales (Spain), Roaring 40's (Australia) and Humboldt Fog (California). The cheeses aided in showcasing the 1993 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos from Hungary. This wine was liquid sun with layers of honey, dates, caramelized sugar, flowers. . .the list goes on. It took me some time to get over just smelling it much less tasting it. The texture and acidity carried the cheese and lifted them all to another level.

As if that wasn't enough, Sabrina had prepared an espresso tart to pair with a 2005 Renwood Amador Ice Zinfandel. This cryoextracted dessert zinfandel had acid and fruit which not only cut through the richness of the tart but also amplified the smokiness of the espresso.

This meal will absolutely go down as one of the most outstanding, exceptional dinners I've ever had. I've always felt that when you get good friends together that is the basis for everything. Everything after that is icing. The food and wine held flavors that I've never experienced before.

My friends helped me taste them.

Away

As much as I'm glad to be in Memphis spending Christmas with Kelly and our dogs, I do wish I was in Indiana with my family. By now, my parents and I would have been headlong into our first bottle of Tempranillo. It would have been nice to watch my niece tear open her presents. It's okay. I'll see them in a few weeks.

Dec/Jan article

Check out my new article in the Lamplighter: www.cooperyoung.org/lamplighter.asp.

Sorry about the lack of a link. Something is not working.

Sunday Dinner

Sundays, as I've said before, are my days to cook. I try to do something special, not outrageous, just full of love, flavor and care. In the process of creation, I'm always paying attention to how the meal will pair with wine. What wine will go best? What flavors should I add to the dish to mirror/contrast the wine?

Recently, I had the urge to cook some duck. There were two wines I had in mind for this dish. The first was a 2004 Savigny-Les-Beaune from Joseph Drouhin. This wine has a light ruby color, elevated (but not overpowering) acidity, a gorgeous array of earth, and soft fruit profile. The second was a 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva from Luiano. The bright acidity (typical of Sangiovese), medium-full body, and berry-fruit characteristics seemed perfect for duck.

I marinated the duck legs in a dash of soy, red wine, pepper, garlic and a dash of pomegranate molasses. After a few hours of marinating, I laid them on a baking sheet and roasted them in the oven. While they were roasting I prepared some red rice, english pea pods, and a dried cherry sauce with red wine, balsamic vinegar, shallots and a dash of pomegranate molasses to mirror the marinade.

Finally it was time to test my wine theory. The acidity of the red burgundy cut through the richness of the duck, the fruit and the acid in the wine mirrored the dried cherry sauce, and the earthiness popped out to go with the gamy quality of the duck. Delicious.

Unfortunately, I couldn't test my theory about the Chianti. It was corked. Oh well, I'll just have to try it again!

Certified

I did it! I actually did it! I am officially a Certified Sommelier! On November 13th I successfully passed the Court of Master Sommelier's Certified Sommelier Exam. It was unbelievably difficult, but I pulled it off. This can only lead to bigger and better things. Even though it takes a few years for new vines to produce quality grapes, the world of wine changes at a rapid pace. There are new wines and new wine regions emerging on a regular basis. It's a pleasure to keep up.

Sonoma-The 30th Birthday

So Sorry that I haven't posted in FOREVER, but I've been spending all my spare time studying for the Certified Sommelier Exam. More on that later, back to Wine Country . . .Kelly and I have been to Northern California wine country before, mainly Napa. However, I've always been a HUGE fan of Sonoma wines. Therefore, I wanted to focus this trip on Sonoma; specifically the Russian River AVA and Dry Creek AVA. The Russian River Pinots are beautiful and silky, the Dry Creek Zinfandels are powerful and luscious. We headed north out of San Francisco with the top down on our Mustang convertible; the sun beating down and the ocean breeze cooling us off. We popped in the audio cd "Napa Uncorked" narrated by David Hyde Pierce, pick this up for your next trip to Northern California. I did want to stop by Failla in St. Helena to check out what Turley's winemaker, Ehren Jordan, was up to at his new winery. There was an unfortunate miscommunication between us and the winery so we missed our appointment. Oh well, since we were in Napa I wanted to check out Cliff Lede in the Stag's Leap District. I've heard so much about their S. Anderson sparkling wines that I had to try them for myself. The tasting room was warm and luscious with wood and granite and large windows to stream in light. I was pleasantly surprised by their Petite Sirah (one of my favorite varietals). It was dark, rich, bold and filled with black fruits with big tannin. Yet it wasn't overpowering and jarring the way an overextracted Aussie Shiraz can be. Next up was what I came for, the S. Anderson bubbly. I tasted the 2000 Brut and the 1999 Blanc de Blancs, both were outstanding. The Brut was crisp and mineral-filled with bright citrus peel and biscuit aromas. The Blanc de Blancs had apple, pear, white peach and limestone aromas. We left with a bottle of the 2004 Petite Sirah and the 2000 Brut Rose. Onward . . .

We headed out of the Stag's Leap District toward Santa Rosa in search of Siduri. If you haven't experienced Siduri wines (and they are an "experience"), I implore you to go immediately to your favorite wine shop and buy a bottle of their wine. They produce only Pinot Noir (their sister winery, Novy, which is housed in the same facility produces Syrah, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and sometimes Pinot Meunier). The winemaking facility is in a warehouse park just outside of the Charles Schultz airport in Santa Rosa. It is very minimalist, no bells and whistles here. Obviously they focus all their energy on what goes in the bottle, rather than how to showcase it. What's inside the bottle is awe-inspiring. Their Pinots aren't cheap, but they are worth every penny (and I rarely say that). Some highlights were the 2005 Russian River (even being so young it was drinking beautifully), and the 2005 Rosella's Vineyard (which was luscious but needed some bottle time. Jill Kennedy, the National Sales Manager, led us through the facility showing us the incoming grapes, the hopper, fermenting bins and the barrel room. We also had the pleasure of tasting, from barrel, the 2005 Novy Christensen Family Syrah, Gary's Vineyard Syrah, and Rosella's Vineyard Syrah. They were all amazing, each with their own terroir, simply beautiful. The Christensen was my favorite, with supple tannins, blackberry fruit, rosemary aromas, and a long finish. Even in barrel it was showing signs of how amazing it will be. The Siduri experience was amazing.

I'm 30, why not?

To celebrate my 30th birthday, my partner Kelly and I decided (well, I really decided) to take a trip out to the beautiful Sonoma Valley. Being in the business I was able to set up a few appointments with wineries beforehand. After a smooth 4 1/2 hour flight from Memphis we landed in San Francisco, a former home of mine. Our friend Cori picked us up from the airport and whisked us into the city. We had the whole day before us to play around in the city. We went down to the Ferry Building Marketplace (a must for any foodie) and had some wine at the Winebar. Service was kind of "ehh" but the wine was good. I almost purchased a bottle of Vega Sicilia's second label but the alcohol was a bit too high for a Spanish wine. I was concerned that it would be hot. We left the Ferry Building and walked towards Union Square. We then stopped at First Crush. This delightful little wine bar was beautifully stylized and had a lovely menu. Our server had been to Memphis and I recognized her (small world). After the recognition our server proceeded to shower us with wine and food. You've got to check this place out when in SF. Cori had to work the next morning so she bowed out at this point. We regrouped back at her and her husband's apartment in Noe Valley, and then Kelly and I went back out on the town. We found an amazing little place called Hotel Biron. Located in an alley behind the Zuni Cafe (which we had dinner at later in the week, I'll get to that), Hotel Biron looks like it belongs in Barcelona or Prague. It's very minimal and sleek, not to mention miniscule, and so very comfortable. With a wine list to die for (kudos to whomever put it together) and a small menu of cheeses and charcuterie, it had everything we were looking for. Kelly and I split a bottle of 1997 Calera Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir. The wine displayed gamey aromas of dried leather, dark earth, licorice and dried cherry. It had aged gracefully into a structured wine with black cherry, tea and espresso on the palate. Lovely!

We'll continue northward to Sonoma......

Lamplighter

Check out my new column in the Lamplighter newspaper. Go to: www.cooperyoung.org and click on Lamplighter.

We're back

Kelly and I just returned from Sonoma. I will be posting soon about our amaaaaaaaaaaaaaazing trip.

My Birthday Trip

Kelly and I are leaving for California on Sunday!!!!! We are staying in San Francisco Sunday night, and driving up to Sonoma on Monday. I'll be posting after the trip.

Lyrical Cuisine Pt. 2

As I said before, I love putting on some great music to cook to. But sometimes there is nothing more I need than the beautiful sound of a meal. It is a soundtrack unto itself. The slice of the knife through garlic and onion, the crunch of fresh celery, the sizzle of a piece of fish in olive oil.

The most beautiful noise in the world is my kitchen.

5 Things to Eat Before You Die

I've recently been tagged (by Colin over at memphiswineevents.blogspot.com and see-sip-taste-hear.blogspot.com, check 'em out) to list my top 5 Things To Eat Before You Die.

Here's mine:

1. Blowfish (isn't that the fish that could kill you if not prepared properly?0
2. My grandmother's Saltenas. Ta (that's what we called her growing up) would make these South American beef and vegetable pies about a day or two in advance. She made the dough from scratch and marinated the beef for a day. You haven't lived until you tasted these. My mom does an excellent job preparing these as well.
3. Tapas in a Barcelona bar. When I was over there we would pop into a bar around 6 and they would usually have plates of snacks on the bar to munch on. Usually, the snacks would be octopus, various jamons, olives, etc. The perfect accompaniment to the lovely carafes of Spanish wine we would indulge in.
4. Fresh grapes picked right off the vine.
5. Fresh scallops harvested right out of the ocean.

Save the leftovers

I've found that it always helps to evaluate what can be saved from a meal. Case in point, I braised some lovely beef short ribs (purchased at the farmer's market!) in red wine, beef stock, onion, garlic, dried thyme and rosemary. After about 8 hours of braising, I pulled the short ribs out and let them cool. After cooling, I pulled the meat off the bone. I sliced some potatoes very thinly and fried them, and topped the chips with the beef, and topped that with a fresh horseradish-garlic marscapone cream. Yum. In the pot I had a LOT of leftover braising liquid. I strained the liquid and reduced that down to about 1 1/2 cups. The short ribs on fresh chips was delicious and paired perfectly with a bottle of Baron Phillipe de Rothschild Escudo Rojo from Argentina. Awesome.

The week after, Kelly and I got together with our friends Max and Marlinee for dinner. I prepared a spice crusted pork loin and served it over the reduced wine sauce. I'm so glad I saved that sauce, it went well with the pork. And it went perfectly with a bottle of 2001 Coturri Jewell Vineyards Sonoma Mountain Pinot Noir. The high acidity and bold cherry fruit of the wine complemented the spice crust on the pork.

P.S. Sorry I haven't blogged lately. I'm working on my birthday trip to the Russian River!

Bubbles from the Great Lake State

I have been reading and hearing a lot lately about Michigan sparkling wines. I am always willing to try wines from different regions of the world, but I was even more curious because I'm a Midwesterner and I love Sufjan Stevens' album "Greetings from Michigan". My best friends Sarah and Jon also just moved to Michigan. This past Sunday Richie and Megan brought over a bottle of L. Mawby Talisman sparkling wine. It had an interesting bottle label, not garish but not too simple. We decided to start off the meal with it, I loooove starting off with bubbles! Upon first sniff I was shocked to detect aromas that I would normally pick up in top quality Champagne. The nose was giving off biscuit, orange peel, pie crust and lemon curd, along with wet stone and chalk. The palate was full of creamy texture and balanced acidity. The lemon curd had carried through along with the orange peel and a hint of spice. To me, it's absolutely thrilling to see that there are passionate winemakers crafting beautiful juice all over this country. Seek them out!

Lyrical Cuisine

There is not many things more satisfying than putting on a great CD (or hooking up the Ipod to the stereo) and conjuring up a great meal. Music can set the town for that meal, guiding the flavor intensity and choice of herbs or spices. A great song and intoxicating aromas can draw people to the kitchen. Many will offer assistance if the right combination of scents, wine and lyrical inspiration occur. I put on different music for different meals.

For all purpose culinary music I enjoy:

Ibrahim Ferrer "Buenos Hermanos"
PJ Harvey "Stories from the City, Stories from The Sea"
Rufus Wainwright "Poses" and "Want 1"
Imperial Teen "On"
Miles Davis "Kind of Blue"
Radiohead "The Bends"

This is a small list in a sea of music that I love to play when preparing dinner. The music makes everything flow so beautifully. It puts me in a glowing mood. The produce looks fresher, the fish looks just killed, the meat looks more glorious. A perfect combination of all these components can make for an ethereal experience. A great bottle of red wine, such as Peregrine 2001 Central Otago Pinot Noir, always helps too.

Parental Units

The Ps came to visit this weekend and, like always, it was fueled by great food and wine. On Sunday I prepared a steamer pot of clams and red snapper.

I first diced and sauteed half a large onion and five garlic cloves in olive oil in my sturdy dutch oven (thanks, mom!) After they were nicely colored I tossed in 30 rinsed and cleaned littleneck clams and put the lid on to allow them to steam. Once the clams were slightly open I added about 3/4 a bottle of Vega Sindoa Viura/Chardonnay from Spain, gave them a good stir and popped the lid back on. Once the wine had reduced a bit and the clams were half open I added the snapper filets, some sea salt and about 10 grinds of fresh pepper and popped the lid back on. After one side of the snapper had turned a bit white I flipped the filets over and added about a tablespoon and a half of butter, and returned the lid. 5 minutes later I added a small amount of fresh chopped tarragon and fresh red bell pepper (from Bluebird farmstand at the Farmer's Market) everything was done and ready to eat. On the side we had some nice grilled bread (from Simone the doughgirl at the Farmer's Market) for sopping up the buttery, garlicky, olive oilly, winey broth. Yuuuummmm.

We served 2 bottles with this steamer pot. The first was Epiphany Cellars 2005 Grenache Rose from Santa Barbara (only one case came into Memphis so don't even bother looking for it), and the second was Vina Rey 2003 Tempranillo Crianza. The rose exhibited deep red berry fruit, a nice hit of tannin and lovely complex spice character. The Vina Rey was lush and dark with earthy notes, silky texture, spicy flavors and a lovely finish. Seek it out now!

The Gravitational Pull of Spain

To ease the pain of my yearning for Spain, I wallowed in a delicious dinner of Spanish cuisine.

First, I prepared a lovely salad of spicy arugula (from the Memphis Farmer's Market, wow), young manchego cheese, shallot, Las Brisas Unfiltered Extra Virgin Olive Oil, heirloom tomato, sherry vinegar and Maldon Sea Salt. The best sea salt EVER!!!



We paired the salad with Ventana Riesling from Arroyo Seco Monterey. The bright acidity and off-dry nature was a perfect counterbalance with the sweet acid in the Sherry vinegar. The Riesling also cut through the richness of the cheese and stood up to the spice in the arugula.

The star dish of the night was my grandmother's recipe (Thank you Ta!) Paella. I tweaked it a bit because I can't just leave well enough alone. The Paella was filled with brown arborio rice, fresh clams, spanish chorizo, fresh shrimp, saffron, red pepper, garlic, tomato, onion, wine and edamame (sorry ta, I didn't know I had sweet peas in the freezer).



The paella was perfect with a 2003 Bacio Divino Pazzo (thanks Richie and Megan!), a blend of Sangiovese, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It's rich earthiness and bright fruit flowed perfectly into the heady earthiness of the saffron. It was a bit much for the clams but I still had a bit of the Riesling left to drink with that. The chorizo's spicy garlicy deliciousness made the fruit in the wine explode! Incredible.

This meal was a nice salve for my open wounds. A good meal can always make me feel better, and transport back to where I want to be.

Fuedi Di San Gregorio

The Blue Fish Restaurant, located at 2149 Young Avenue 901.725.0230, will be hosting Robert Shea of Fuedi di San Gregorio winery in Italy from 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm Wednesday July 26. Mr. Shea is the National Sales Director for this highly acclaimed Italian winery. The Blue Fish will be serving their regular menu for dinner and featuring these wines by the bottle and by the glass. Fuedi di San Gregorio is well known for its vineyard tactics such as high density planting and strict pruning.

I've had the opportunity to taste the Fiano, Falanghina and Aglianico and all were fabulous. The Fiano exhibits a woodsy earthy character that hits the top of your palate. The Falanghina is a crisp bright wine that follows through with good body and mouthfeel. The Aglianico is an old world wonder, big juicy red with dark red fruits and a hint of soil. The whole line is worth a try, I highly suggest making reservations for this. Call 901.725.0230 for reservations, and visit www.thebluefishmemphis.com for further information on the menu.

Here is what James Suckling of Wine Spectator had to say about the Taurasi Riserva 2001:


Daily Wine Picks
July 19, 2006

FEUDI DI SAN GREGORIO Taurasi Piano di Montevergine Riserva2001 (90 points)

Ripe currant, with violets, lots of oak and a hint of charred meat. Full-bodied, with firm, velvety tannins and a long, oaky finish. Silky and fine. Best after 2007. 1,600 cases made.

--James Suckling

Arugula! For the first time.

I went to the Farmer's Market at Central Station downtown this past Saturday to find some inspiration for Sunday's Spanish dinner. I came upon an organic stand. The guy behind the stand said to me "hey, weren't you here a few weeks ago looking for arugula?" I couldn't believe he remembered me! He gave me a taste of the arugula that he said was harvested at 4am that morning. Wow! It's as if I never had arugula ever in my life! This little green was so spicy and pungent, it was amazing! I purchased a clamshell of the greens, and thanked him for remembering me. Last night I made a salad with the spicy arugula, heirloom tomatoes, shallots, manchego cheese, sherry vinegar, olive oil, and finished with some Maldon sea salt (Kelly's fave). It paired wonderfully with a Ventana single vineyard Riesling from Monterey.

Entranced

Tuesday night Kelly and I met up at Napa Cafe to have some wine. I scanned the list and almost fell out of my chair when I saw they had Chateau Musar 1988....FOR $35!!!! I couldn't believe it. We ordered a bottle and asked them to decant it (which they were very happy to do).

It was transfixing. When I tasted the wine I tasted the vineyard. I tasted the soil the vines grew out of, the air that caressed the grapes, and the sunlight that warmed them. The wine nearly brought tears to my eyes. So rarely do I have the pleasure of enjoying a mature and affordable wine at a restaurant. We so often are subjected to current release wines that may or may not be ready to drink. This was truly special, a gift.

That wine is the perfect example of an establishment that truly cares. Go now to Napa Cafe, have a bottle of Musar (or another one from their INCREDIBLE selection), some great food, and support one of the few restaurants in town that is as passionate about wine as they are about customer service. Independent restaurants always seem to get it right. The chains could care less if you're even there, but the Mom and Pops welcome you.

By the way, Lulu Grille (also in East Memphis) is changing their wine list after many years. Stay tuned with details on that.

Reaching into the Cellar

Kari and Adrian invited Kelly and I over for dinner the other night so I decided to take some "looking at wine". What is "looking at wine"? Well, Kelly always gets mad at me because he'll come home and ask "do we have any wine to drink?" To which I'll reply "no". He then will proceed into the kitchen where he'll open the wine fridge and gaze at the 40 some odd bottles slumbering on their sides. "What is this then?" he'll ask, "looking at wine? We don't have any drinking wine?" Funny.

So anyway, I decided to reach into my collection and take something nice over. I decided upon a bottle of Panther Creek Winemaker's Cuvee 2000 Pinot Noir. Kari loves Pinot so I thought this might be a good choice.

We started with New Age White over ice with a twist of lime. This fabulous aperitif is a semi-sparkling white wine from Argentina. It is delicious and totally gets the palate ready for food.

Adrian plated up the food which was a Southwestern smoked chicken grilled with avocado, pico de gallo and mozzarella served with spiced rice. Fantastic! I popped open the Panther Creek. It was incredible!!! The Pinot had matured into a subtle, elegant, earthy, dried cherry, hints of tea, glass full of beauty. It's sad to think that I can't get anymore of it. The cuisine was lightly spiced so it didn't overpower the wine at all.

Thanks Kari and Adrian!!!

Constant

I've been thinking about Spain a lot lately. And that's saying something because I already think about that country at least once a day. Spanish wine, food, architecture, etc. Thoughts have been constantly with me. Memories of my beautiful summer in Barcelona are resurfacing at a feverish pace. But they are starting to become fuzzy. I need to return to plug back in to my heritage and culture. I need to walk the streets and alleys of Sevilla, drink the cheapest (and best tasting!) carafe of red wine in the tiny little tapas bars in Barcelona, gorge myself on the fresh baby octopus and chorizo piled on plates on the bartop at those tapas bars.......*sigh*.

That country is calling to me.

I want my mother to take me to the places she loved so much as a child. I want to take my father to places I fell in love with while I was there. I want to walk through my aunt's apartment again and gaze out the windows at the street below.

Sometimes when I taste something in a wine or a flavor in a dish, flashes of memories return to me. Sometimes it is the interior of a cathedral in Galicia or the courtyard in the back of Tia Raquel's apartment. Sometimes it's the smell of the dust rising up from the bullring, or the scent of the trees in the hills above Barcelona.

I'll get back there again. For now, I must satisfy that pulling feeling with good Spanish wine, paella and dreams.

Art out of Wine

The conceptual artist Anya Gallacio is elevating Zinfandel to art. Anya, whose previous installations include 10,000 rose petals arranged on a gallery floor and left to shrivel, is turning her sights on the sense of place. That place being Sonoma County, her palette consisting of different Zinfandel blocks from around the county. Her winemaking collaborator in this? The world renowned Zelma Long and Barbara Lindblom. Read about it in last Sunday's New York Times. If you don't get the Times you can read it online at nytimes.com. I've always felt that wine is art. No one can dissuade me from believing I can "feel, smell and taste" the artisanal soul that goes into a bottle of wine. Yes, I know that a lot of wine out there is industrial grade plonk, but from time to time I come across a wine that makes me see and feel all those things. And I cherish every moment.

Passion or Affliction?

I can't help it. I get excited, near frenzy, when drinking wine and discussing wine. It might seem as if I've lost myself in it, but I'd rather like to think that I've found myself. Nothing for me is more exciting than tasting wine and deciphering every single nuance and layer. A truly exceptional wine can be haunting. The flavors, aromas and textures adhering to every crevice of my body. When a wine takes hold of me it never lets go. I taste many wines on a regular basis, I'm not talking about those typical wines. Once in a while, a wine will come along and catch me off guard, slipping inside my tongue and my soul. Those are the wines I never forget.

Since relinquishing myself to my passion for wine, I never once have had a second thought about pursuing another career path. Quite frankly, I wouldn't be any good at (much less anywhere near as passionate about) doing anything else. So why do anything else?

Who Would've thought?

I am a HUGE fan of Coturri Winery in Sonoma. It's a divisive winery that you either fanatically love or can't stand. They make huge, powerful wines that are not for the faint of heart. These wines can handle a lot. Case in point . . .

Recently, Megan was sitting on my back porch munching on some Pop Rocks while Richie and I were sipping on some Coturri 2004 Merlot Maclise Vineyard. This massive Merlot spewed forth aromas of blackberry jam (and some crayon according to my friend Amy, good nose!). The alcohol was a little high (15.7%!) but didn't seem hot. We were raving about how over the top it was so Megan decided to see how it did up against Pop Rocks. Much to everyone's surprise, the wine held it's own! Which goes to show you that you'll never know when or where you might find a good pairing.

The Chi & Meay show

The dynamic duo brought their lovely selves over to our house Sunday evening for a little blind tasting action. Along with two bottles of wine they brought yummy blue cheese and feta cheese stuffed olives, Cabernet soaked cheddar, delicious crackers and some Danish blue. I grilled some red wine and blueberry glazed pork tenderloin. Off we go!

The first wine was white and REALLY threw me off. I smelled limestone and wet rock but thought it was a Sauvignon Blanc. Silly me. It, of course, turned out to be a Chablis, La Chablisienne Cuvee LC to be exact. Doh!

Up next was a dark and rich red wine with gorgeous dark and earthy fruit. I initially thought it was a grenache, then switched to a syrah. I should have listened to my gut. It was the 2004 Las Rocas Garnacha. For $10 a bottle everyone should by this by the case.

#3 had a ruby color and light body, but with tons of fruit. I guessed that it was a new world Italian varietal such as Barbera, Sangiovese or Dolcetto. It was revealed to be Scott Harvey Barbera from Amador County.

#4 was so dark that Megan couldn't even read through it. The intense nose just poured out of the glass, the body was medium to full and the finish lasted a good deal of time on the sides of the palate. This little lovely was revealed to be the 1999 Falcone Cabernet Sauvignon from the Garda DOC in Italy. Wonderful.

Take every opportunity to blind taste. It's humbling....but a lot of fun at the same time.

My Apologies

I have been out of pocket lately and I supremely apologize for the lack of posts. I have been packing my head and palate with wine knowledge in order to prepare for the Introductory Sommelier Course. I will be posting soon!


Just to let you know. I passed the Intro level, with flying colors!

Across State Lines

Sundays are my days to cook. This Sunday was no different. Kelly informed me that we had dinner plans with our friends Scott and Dana. Since they have a son who is nearly 2, we thought it would be more convenient for them if we had dinner at their house. We packed up the dogs (Otis and Hank), grabbed the food I prepared and set off for Mississippi.

I prepared a fresh crab salad with fresh ginger, garlic, red wine vinegar, fresh lychees and olive oil. I served that with crispy focaccia crostini to spread the salad on. I also prepared a salad of sweet snap pea pods, walnuts, goat's milk feta, shallots, strawberries and spinach with a light vinaigrette.

Both of these dishes paired wonderfully with a 2005 Robert Sinskey Vin Gris of Pinot Noir. This light pale rose has bright hints of strawberry which played well off the spinach salad. The white flower notes and light acidity complemented the crab salad very well.

Scott prepared beef carpaccio with parmesan and olive oil, an herbed cheese spread with crackers, and mini spiced burgers. All of these dishes worked incredibly well with the 2002 Coturri "Red Series" Sangiovese. This particularly wine is full bodied with an almost Amarone-like quality. Its fruit and tannin worked a perfect contrast to the beef.

My stomach is grumbling all over again.

For dessert I prepared fresh mango slices drizzled with a blue cheese sabayon. The mango was super ripe and sweet. Therefore, I felt it needed some salty richness to balance it out. I didn't add too much blue cheese to the sayabon, just enough to give it the kick it needed. It worked together perfectly, if I do say so myself, and wasn't difficult to make at all. This dish paired nicely with the season finale of The Sopranos. The sweet salty richness livened up the BORING episode. Sorry Kelly.

Sommelier?

I should be studying right now and not blogging, but I just can't help it. I'm set to take the Introductory Sommelier Course with the Court of Master Sommeliers next week and I'm not sure if I'm ready. Maybe I'll blind taste tonight or get some reading done at work today. I should. No matter how much knowledge I think I have, there will always be more to gain. That is the reason why I got into this in the first place. I'm constantly challenged and excited all at the same time. Cheers!

Hot Spain

In today's Dining Section of the New York Times there is an article about the Bierzo wine region of Spain. Here in Memphis Spanish wines are hot, hot, hot! People are wild about them for a number of different reasons.

1. They are absolutely delicious
2. Most of the wines are value priced
3. They offer something different

The article goes on to describe Bierzo as an out of the way region that has not sacrificed it's traditional grape, Mencia, for fashionable grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Some of the mencia vines are 40-100 years old! That's old vine for you.

Unfortunately, Bierzo's presence in Memphis is fairly weak. I did see one bottle at Joe's on Poplar and would recommend starting there.

The Scotsman's Birthday

My friends and I will use any opportunity to cook. Paula and Doug came in town from Louisville to visit; and it just so happened to be Doug's birthday. So Kristi, Jeff and I decided to prepare a birthday meal for Doug. We got together to brainstorm over coffee. Halfway through our discussion, two men sitting near us told us to keep it down. We thought at first that they were being rude, but it turned out that we were just making them hungry. We had the menu planned and our courses assigned. Off we went.

At 5 on Sunday Phil, Jeff, Paula, Doug, Kristi and Warner arrived and the feast began. I asked that everyone bring rose wine. Rose, I felt, would best pair with the spicy flavors on this menu. I also prepared a fresh pitcher of mojitos to start off the dinner.

Jeff prepared some incredible mini tostadas with spiced refried black beans topped with a mango-jicama slaw and queso fresco, puff pastries stuffed with chorizo and manchego cheese, and chipotle cheddar mashed potatoes stuffed inside a grilled red pepper.

Kristi prepared crispy jalapeno peppers stuffed with cheddar, roasted root vegetables, grilled bbq shrimp, spiced brownies and cinnamon ice cream.

I cooked grilled corn salad with avocado and red pepper in a cumin-orange vinaigrette, and a spice crusted grilled london broil.

Accompanying this spice-laden meal were some lovely wines. Rose is a perfect partner to spice. The full fruit and refreshing quality of rose complements and contrasts spicy flavors in food. The Vision Cellars Rose was full bodied and packed with cherry and berry fruit with a crisp dry finish. The Remy Pannier Rose d'Anjou had light hints of watermelon with a slight off-dry quality. Toad Hollow Eye of The Toad Rose of Pinot Noir was light, refreshing, and full of bright fruit.

Anytime is a good time to prepare a wonderful meal, but food and wine always taste better when you surround yourself with loved ones. Happy Birthday Doug!

Blind

Last week Sabrina, Patrick, Hillary and I met at Sabrina's for a little blind tasting of Sauvignon Blanc. And yes, Sabrina, at first I was a little skeptical. I've always enjoyed Sauvignon Blanc and truly believe they have their place on the table when it comes to a multi-course meal. But I've never really looked at the grape with a critical eye. This was going to be fun.

We all brought a bottle of wine and gave it to Eric to tuck away from us all. He was the master pourer, the one who held the bottles and protected them from prying eyes. Hillary brought a delectable selection of goat's cheeses, Patrick brought a tasty herbed goat's cheese and Sabrina made shrimp and grits and a killer grilled tuna steak. I prepared a fresh salmon ceviche with dill, cilantro, habanero pepper, tangerine, mango, lime and avocado.

Wine #1 was a very pale pale yellow with a tint of light green. Very clear and bright with a clean fresh look about it. We all guessed it was 1-2 years old. On the nose I detected floral notes with a bit of fresh ginger and fresh fresh citrus. The first taste was like taking a bite out of a fresh granny smith apple. It had tart bright acidity with a hint of lime zest. The consensus was that it was New World, either 2004 or 5. I guessed it was around 12-12.5% alcohol. Eric pulled off the brown bag and revealed Mulderbosch 2005 from Stellenbosch South Africa.

Wine #2 also had a light pale green tinge to it, but was a bit darker than #1. The aroma was very herbaceous with a bit of nut and lemon rind. The palate revealed a very full mouthfeel but with quite a hot finish. I guessed maybe California, 1-2 years old. We all felt that the quality of this wine was considerably lower than #1, and that it was vastly more manipulated. It turned out to also be from South Africa. It was Kumala 2005.

Wine #3 had a bit of golden color and was less pale than 1 or 2; yet was still clear and fresh looking. The scent of grapefruit practically smacked me in the face. The grapefruit aroma gave way to hints of fresh cut asparagus with light fresh cut grass
and an herbaceous tone. The palate displayed sweet fruit with hints of pineapple and other tropical notes. The grapefruit characteristic led me to believe that it might have been from New Zealand. Maybe 2 years old. We all guessed that it was good quality. Eric pulled back the brown bag and revealed Cloudy Bay 2004.

Wine #4 displayed a pale almost light golden color. On the nose was a very floral aroma with a touch of ginger, some spicy characteristics and hint of lemongrass. The palate had a bit of minerality with limestone, lime zest and wet rock. It was not very mouthfilling, more razor sharp. I really fluctuated between guessing New World or Old World. The style really led me to believe it was Old World because of its elegance. I was wrong. This little wine was from St Supery, Napa Valley 2004.

All in all, this was very educational AND a lot of fun.

Further Tales of Tasting

On a beautiful recent Sunday evening our unnamed club of wine aficionados met to indulge our taste buds. Kelly was off work so he joined us as we plunged headlong into some very delicious bottles.

First up was a 2004 Rose of Pinot Noir from Luddite Vineyards. Kelly and I picked up this bottle at Crush Wine Company on our trip to Manhattan last October. Only 68 cases of this vintage was produced! The only two places to purchase this wine is at Crush and The French Laundry in Napa Valley. The owner/winemaker of Luddite is a passionate man who strongly believes in high quality hand-crafted wines. This rose exhibited a beautiful clear strawberry color with cherry sorbet or jam, red raspberry and white flower aromas. The bright fruit and balanced acidity on the palate was beautiful. I would pair this wine with full-bodied olive oil and lightly spiced grilled pork sausage.

Next we opened a 2001 Les Cousins Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley. Beaux Freres hand selected this wine as a personal cuvee for Robert Kacher. The vineyards that these grapes were sourced from hold some of the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Oregon. The nose displayed beautiful pinot fruit, spice and earth. At first taste, the acidity was too high and it almost seemed slightly bubbly. Leading Richie and Megan to think it might have undergone a secondary fermentation in the bottle, much like Champagne. After a few minutes it blew off and the wine settled down into a gorgeous almost Burgundian-style Pinot Noir. It had bright red cherry and blueberry and earth on the nose with soft supple tannins and a very long lasting finish.

Pressing onward we popped open the 2003 Domaine Chandon Carneros Pinot Meunier (thanks Bryce!). Both Richie and I were excitedly expecting a funk bomb of a wine. We were very pleasantly surprised when the wine revealed a fruit forward nose of cherry and rhubarb that continued on the palate! It was not funky at all, but a lovely fruit forward medium bodied wine exhibiting flavors of pomegranate and pie spice. It did have some earth on the nose but in no way was it overpowering. All in all I really enjoyed it. Pair this with black olives and spiced sausage.

And here we came to one of Richie's little jewels from his recent trip to Seattle; K Vintners 2004 "The Boy" a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre from Walla Walla Valley. Very impressive. It had a deep dark garnet-like color and a nose that at first was extremely difficult to decipher. We were all working very hard for at least 15 minutes on dismantling the nose to get to the flavors. The winemaker had so tightly integrated the varietals that we couldn't pull out aromas. It was as if a seamstress had woven the wine together, interlocking each varietal so that the aromas of each hit all at once. Finally, we were able to detect fig, slight leather, stewed fruit and black cherry. On the palate was cocoa, huge berries and a slight tea-like character.

Next we had another well traveled wine sourced from Richie and Megan's trip to Seattle, the 2003 Boudreaux Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. Good god! Two stellar Washington state wines in a row. Both are perfect examples of why Washington wines continue to get an exorbitant amount of press lately. I detected hints of vanilla, cola, dark chocolate and olive on the nose. The wine displayed a rich velvet texture that wallpapered my mouth. Wow! It was full-bodied and the finish went on for miles and miles.

And last, but not least, Michael finally showed up (a certain someone delayed his arrival.....hmmmmph) with a special treat...a 1988 Chateau Graud Larose. This beautifully aged Bordeaux was complex and impressive. It had an elegant aroma of leather, earth and sage. The palate exhibited a smoked meat quality, but it wasn't gamy or overpowering. The fruit on the wine had lightened but was still detectable. Pair with black olives, the olives will amplify the fruit in the wine.

Yet again another INCREDIBLE tasting. Thank you for hosting us Megan and Richie!

Hidden Gems

You never know what you're going to find when you dig around your favorite wine shop. Yesterday at Joe's on Poplar I found a 1985 Nebbiolo for around $40! The wine was the last vintage made by the original winemaker who died just before its release. They have a little informational sign regarding the wine that, I believe, stated that he died just shy of 100 years old! It's amazing to think what else might be lying around Memphis.

Banned

The Chicago City Council voted Wednesday to ban the sale of foie gras, making Chicago the first city in in the U.S. to do so. California has already passed a law that will end the production and sale of foie gras by 2012. Rick Tramanto, executive chef at Tru in Chicago, stated that "Government shouldn't be dictating what we eat, it's just not right". Mayor Daley feels that Chicago shouldn't be wasting time with foie gras and should be focusing on the "real issues in this city".

This is where the grey area lies. I consider myself progressive, liberal and eco-conscious. I also am a passionate lover of food. Supposedly, there are humane ways of raising ducks and geese to produce the rich, velvety foie gras. If so, then I say it should be allowed to continue. It is rather delicious. Is that heartless?

Gift

My father called me the other night to tell me that he was thoroughly enjoying a bottle of Hayman & Hill Pinot Noir that I had given him. Last Christmas I gave my parents a case of wine. It was comprised of really interesting and delicious bottles such as Foris Gewurztraminer, Castello di Monastero Chianti Classico and Venta Mazzaron Tempranillo along with some others. My parents have everything (except that vacation home in the Caribbean, that's coming Mom) so it's usually an interesting feat when purchasing gifts for them. I get my love of cuisine and wine from the both of them, so a gift of wine seemed natural. Also, they live in a small town in Illinois and therefore do not have access to as much of a selection as we do here in Memphis. I even found two beautiful wooden wine boxes to put them in. Which my dad, being the craftsman that he is, turned into wall art for their bar. Every time they pop open a bottle of wine from that Christmas collection, they call me to express how much they are enjoying it. Sometimes they call me to ask my advice on what wine to open with the meal they are about to have.

I can't express how good it feels to know they are enjoying my gift. My mother and father are the reason why I love to cook good food and drink good wine. The kitchen was always the heart of our home and the room that holds the most memories for me. They instilled in me an experimental palate and a desire to create and share. I'm so passionate about wine and food that it was only right to give back to that original source of passion. My beautiful niece Halei, who just turned 2 in February, already loves to cook and loves to eat. I can already foresee that she will be a great cook and I hope that I will be able to pass along that passion for cooking that my parents passed to me.

Here's to you guys.

Salud y pesetas y tiempo para gastarlas!

Here it comes

Spring, as usual, will probably last about 10 seconds here in balmy Memphis. With that being said, I guess we should prepare ourselves to make the inevitable leap to summertime wines. My list of such wines include riesling and rose.

The New York Times food section published an article in the 4.12.06 issue on German rieslings, one of my ABSOLUTE favorite styles of wine. These wines go with practically all foods, especially spicy Asian cuisine, and can run the gamut from dry to sweet to late harvest dessert style. They are perfect for sipping on a patio on an oppressively hot Memphis day. I recommend picking up rieslings from Rudolf Muller (especially the Kabinett and Eiswein), Dr. Thanisch or J.J. Prum. Great Wines and Spirits in the Regalia shopping center (682.1333) has a good stock of all of these wines, try Joe's on Poplar as well. If you can't find what your after, either shop should be able to special order for you.

For the red wine drinkers who feel they couldn't possibly stoop to drinking white wine (what is wrong with you, I mean really??) there are some INCREDIBLE rose wines out there. Rose gives a red drinker the satisfaction and body that accompanies a red wine with the crispness and cool refreshing qualities of a white wine. My favorites include: Saintsbury Vin Gris of Pinot Noir, Susana Balbo Crios Rose of Malbec, E Guigal Cotes Du Rhone Rose, Bonny Doon Big House Pink and Fife Redhead Rose.

Springtime in Harbor Town

I recently was asked to lead a food and wine pairing at a private residence in Harbor Town in downtown Memphis. The host (thanks, Joe!) wanted to have a few friends over for dinner but wanted to do something a little different. I felt up to the challenge so I agreed to do it.

To welcome the guests I had prepared a edamame dip with rice crackers. The dip had lovely flavors of garlic, ginger and a hint of soy to whet their appetites. The first course was red wine poached figs stuffed with blue cheese and walnuts and drizzled with pomegranate molasses. I paired the figs with Castellblanch Rosado cava, a bright and fruity sparkling rose from Spain. The fruit in the cava mirrored the figs, contrasted the saltiness of the blue cheese, and complimented the tartness of the molasses.

Next up were grilled chicken skewers with a pad thai dipping sauce comprised of coconut milk, peanut butter, garlic, ginger, soy, chilis and lime. This I paired with McWilliam's Dry Riesling from South Australia. The lime zest hints in the wine picked up the lime in the sauce while the spice amplified the fruit in the wine. It was a harmonious pairing of flavors that everyone should try.

The main course was marinated flank steak seared rare and topped with a chimmichurri sauce paired with Antis Malbec from Argentina. The wine's supple tannins complimented the beef while the olive oil in the sauce brought out the wine's red fruit flavors. The slight spice from the chilis in the sauce mirrored the slight spiciness of the wine.

Lastly was a chocolate souffle paired with Clocktower Port and Coturri Chauvet Vineyards Old Vines Zinfandel. What way to end! The sweet fruit of both wines amplified the souffle's chocolatey richness. The souffle also brought out a hint of cocoa that I had never detected in the Zin.

All in all I had a blast preparing the food and pairing the wine. I could definitely tell that the guests enjoyed themselves just as much.

I can't wait to do it again! Bring on a new set of tastebuds!